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ihategrigris
Dec 8, 2005, 1:23 AM
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I'm trying to decide between DMM Walnuts, BD Stoppers and WC rocks.... Any tips, comments, comparisons etc.
This is for my second set, my first set is a Tango Nutz set which I'm not especially happy with.
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poedoe
Dec 8, 2005, 1:27 AM
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personally I am extremely fond of the DMM walnuts. I don't own a set myself (I have a boot one though!), however whenever I lead and a set of them are available, I choose them.
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glyrocks
Dec 8, 2005, 1:31 AM
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I have BD stoppers, along with 14 million other people. They're fine, nothing special. But I freaking love my HB offsets. My advice would be stick with the set you have unless they are just really not cutting it, and get a set of offsets. Way more useful, in my oh-so-humble opinion and experience.
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baja_java
Dec 8, 2005, 1:48 AM
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mine is a set of DMM Walnuts. love 'em. they now come anodized in pastels too, though that might not be a good thing, you know, the pretty colors dropping your coreness. more versatile placements, and not as impossible to clean as i've heard. you'll get them out, just not as often with bare hand, as in more nut tool action. but hold up a set and compare to a set of BD or WC and feel the weight difference. i've seen new and seasoned climbers alike peeling off on account of their heavier Stoppers or Rocks or Smileys or what have you. very sad
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rockclimbergabor
Dec 8, 2005, 1:50 AM
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u should get DEEZ NUTS!!!!!!!!
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jimfix
Dec 8, 2005, 1:54 AM
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Wallnuts for sure. They set very well. The only draw back is they don't stack nicely like smooth sided nuts. HB Offsets as you second set
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baja_java
Dec 8, 2005, 1:56 AM
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yes, HB Offsets as a second set is a good idea, if that's what's useful in your area also. my "second set" is basically HB offsets #7-10, plus the pink and red tricams that can be placed in passive mode
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euroford
Dec 8, 2005, 2:15 AM
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BD Stoppers are the gold standard for good old regular nuts. though i'm sure Metolious and DMM offerings have some good points for certain placements, i basicly think its nothing more than an attempt to 'jazz up' something that just really doesn't need improvement. BD stoppers are available anywhere in case you need to quickly replace some bail gear, your partners will be familiar with them and they are priced very reasonably.
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superbum
Dec 8, 2005, 2:19 AM
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ABC huevos...which are EXACT knockoffs of BD stoppers for quite a bit less $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
But if you are rich, join the crowd and get some BDs
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rgbscan
Dec 8, 2005, 2:21 AM
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I've got a full set of both DMM wallnuts and Black Diamond Stoppers. I find that the shape and curves on the wallnuts make them more versatile and seem to grab better. If you're only going to get one type I'd go with DMM.
Chris
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climb_ian
Dec 8, 2005, 2:22 AM
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BD :lol:
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crazywacky
Dec 8, 2005, 2:30 AM
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In reply to: What nut set should I get....
I'm thinking large and brass.. otherwise you can't be a real "Trad" climber.
In fact I'm gonna get my climbing parter some of these...
http://www.nutsfortrucks.com/bbkeybunch.jpg
Not sure what color though.
She's just starting, and I figure maybe they'll keep her mind off the runout slabs we're gonna be doing. :wink:
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leapinlizard
Dec 8, 2005, 2:45 AM
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In reply to: I have BD stoppers, along with 14 million other people. They're fine, nothing special. But I freaking love my HB offsets. My advice would be stick with the set you have unless they are just really not cutting it, and get a set of offsets. Way more useful, in my oh-so-humble opinion and experience. |
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blouderk2
Dec 8, 2005, 2:58 AM
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I have BD Stoppers. They work fine.
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caughtinside
Dec 8, 2005, 3:20 AM
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In reply to: mine is a set of DMM Walnuts. love 'em. they now come anodized in pastels too, though that might not be a good thing, you know, the pretty colors dropping your coreness. more versatile placements, and not as impossible to clean as i've heard. you'll get them out, just not as often with bare hand, as in more nut tool action. but hold up a set and compare to a set of BD or WC and feel the weight difference. i've seen new and seasoned climbers alike peeling off on account of their heavier Stoppers or Rocks or Smileys or what have you. very sad
I'm not sure why you'd recommend a silly little nut set like the Walnuts. I mean, they are just so silly, and such like pretty delicate pastel easter eggs, that no self respecting climber would be caught dead with them. I'd rather have my heavy, caveman-club-like Stoppers peel me off that fingernail crimper than be seen as light, with those light, silly Walnuts on my harness.
And yes, I do want to get back at those silly little Walnuts, for like, taking more nut tool action. I don't have time for more nut tool action! And yes, it is personal.
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van5305
Dec 8, 2005, 3:45 AM
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I started out with Trango nuts as well, and after trying my friend's BD stoppers on some routes, I'm switching as soon as I get the money. Definitely a good investment in my opinion.
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jaybird2
Dec 8, 2005, 4:27 AM
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In reply to: BD Stoppers are the gold standard for good old regular nuts.
Edit this to old standard.
In reply to: ...though i'm sure Metolious and DMM offerings have some good points for certain placements, i basicly think its nothing more than an attempt to 'jazz up' something that just really doesn't need improvement.
WRONG! Wrong, wrong, wrong, don't talk about these things without AT LEAST taking two seconds to learn about them. This is exactally the mentality that allows BD to stick with their old machining and not upgrade. With the wallnuts and other curved nuts there are three points of contact. This is a HUGE advantage over traditional nuts in both security and ease of placement. It is really a simple concept.
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rockguide
Dec 8, 2005, 5:45 AM
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In reply to: Wallnuts for sure. They set very well. The only draw back is they don't stack nicely like smooth sided nuts. HB Offsets as you second set
People still stack nuts? I have not done that in about 20 years.
They make 'em resourceful in kiwi land.
Brian
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wings
Dec 8, 2005, 5:54 AM
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In reply to: BD Stoppers are the gold standard for good old regular nuts. though i'm sure Metolious and DMM offerings have some good points for certain placements, i basicly think its nothing more than an attempt to 'jazz up' something that just really doesn't need improvement. BD stoppers are available anywhere in case you need to quickly replace some bail gear, your partners will be familiar with them and they are priced very reasonably.
After I found myself always preferring to place Wallnuts over Stoppers, I started leaving the BD's at home. I haven't missed them.
- Seyil
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vegastradguy
Dec 8, 2005, 5:57 AM
Post #20 of 35
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In reply to: WRONG! Wrong, wrong, wrong, don't talk about these things without AT LEAST taking two seconds to learn about them. This is exactally the mentality that allows BD to stick with their old machining and not upgrade. With the wallnuts and other curved nuts there are three points of contact. This is a HUGE advantage over traditional nuts in both security and ease of placement. It is really a simple concept.
a simple concept it may be, but truthfully, the few times i have tried using curved stoppers (DMM, Metolius, etc), i have constantly been annoyed by them. I've never been happy with any of the placements except one or two. To be honest, that was early in my trad career when i was still learning, but i do remember that in places i couldnt get a curve nut or a wallnut to fit, a BD would sink home.
Call me crazy, but i do not consider curved stoppers to have an overly huge advantage over BD's in any real way. Each has their pros and cons, and folks have been protecting routes with both types just fine for as long as each has been around.
all of that said, i stopped using standard stoppers two years ago in favor of HB offsets. I carry them exclusively and have been nothing short of spectacularly happy with them- wouldn't trade 'em for the world.
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baja_java
Dec 8, 2005, 4:25 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: mine is a set of DMM Walnuts. love 'em. they now come anodized in pastels too, though that might not be a good thing, you know, the pretty colors dropping your coreness. more versatile placements, and not as impossible to clean as i've heard. you'll get them out, just not as often with bare hand, as in more nut tool action. but hold up a set and compare to a set of BD or WC and feel the weight difference. i've seen new and seasoned climbers alike peeling off on account of their heavier Stoppers or Rocks or Smileys or what have you. very sad I'm not sure why you'd recommend a silly little nut set like the Walnuts. I mean, they are just so silly, and such like pretty delicate pastel easter eggs, that no self respecting climber would be caught dead with them. I'd rather have my heavy, caveman-club-like Stoppers peel me off that fingernail crimper than be seen as light, with those light, silly Walnuts on my harness. And yes, I do want to get back at those silly little Walnuts, for like, taking more nut tool action. I don't have time for more nut tool action! And yes, it is personal. |
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caughtinside
Dec 8, 2005, 7:00 PM
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:lol: :lol: :lol:
Well, I'm unconvinced about the walnuts. But from now on, I'm always climbing with an ass cushion when I trad climb multipitch or in an area with loose rock.
Sport climbing with an ass cushion would be totally lame though.
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jimfix
Dec 8, 2005, 7:49 PM
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In reply to: People still stack nuts? I have not done that in about 20 years. They make 'em resourceful in kiwi land.
Allot of the good multi-pitch climbing down here is a fair hike, so weight is an issue. Stacking nuts is an essential skill with a limited rack. (Oh, and gear is twice the price of that in the states :cry: )
As for DMMs wallnutz being a "Jazz up", what can I say, hard to teach an old dog new tricks.
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dynamo_
Dec 8, 2005, 8:25 PM
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I have just ordered a set of Wallnuts for my first set of nuts. I look forward to placing them from the ground for a while before climbing to those heights requiring an ass cushion.
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randomtask
Dec 8, 2005, 8:56 PM
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I have DMM and love them. my partners have BD and they love them.
-JR
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