Rock Climbing Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Aiding a harder trad route: Page 2

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Aiding a harder trad route

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kimgraves

Jan 26, 2006, 5:48 PM
Post #26 of 27 (2294 views)
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Registered: Jan 13, 2003
Posts: 1186

Re: Aiding a harder trad route [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

In reply to:

changing from aid to free ... I heard that would be the hardest transition to make.

It certainly was for me just on my practice climbs. I did it a couple of times stepping from A1 to 5.5 and it was just precarious. You're carrying tons of weight and fouled up in ladders, daisys, the rope (or two if you're trailing a haul line)and all that gear. I like the idea of using a fifi on the last placement so you don't have to reach down and retrieve you aider. Reaching down to knee level or below while my hand hold was up high threw my balance off and made 5.easy, 5.hard. I'm going to try the fifi next time. Thanks.

Best, Kim

cracklover

Jan 26, 2006, 8:08 PM
Post #27 of 27 (2294 views)
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162

Re: Aiding a harder trad route [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Good advice, but sometimes easier said than done, Brutus!

Sometimes it's just a couple of moves that need to be freed. Like the "5.8" move to mantle up and out from under the roof on Kansas City at the Gunks. I went all the way to the lip of the roof, got the highest damn placement I could, and then up I went... and back down into the aiders. Damned if I could get that move the first time! It's sequency and burly at the same time. I have a friend that hooked his way through it, but I'd rather avoid hooking on good Gunks routes.

GO

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