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landgolier
Mar 3, 2006, 3:47 PM
Post #26 of 112
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Registered: Mar 3, 2005
Posts: 714
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Knights in Shining Armor:
Moccasyms - Don't mess with a classic.
Eureka knockoff of a north face slickrock - $100 and it looks brand new 3 years later. Never had a performance issue, and the design is great, huge vestibules.
#3 from the regular BD stopper set - Strong as the #4 and goes a ton of places. Also the perfect size to plug the hole in "I could sling this, but that little gap spooks me" situations. Everybody with the #4-#13 set should invest in this little guy.
WC ropeman MKII mini-ascender - heavier than a tibloc, but way more reassuring. One of these on a big belay biner feels almost as good as a regular jug.
New Balance 806 trail runners - I subscribe to the "if a high top meant good ankle support, we'd all be hiking talus fields in Doc Martens" theory of footwear. The heel cup on these fits my foot for better support than most boots, and they weigh like a running shoe. Now discontinued, I snapped up the last pair I could find for too much $$ and never let them touch pavement unless it's the parking lot.
#5 technical friend - big, light, and stable. Way more "thank god" placements out of this thing than you'd expect.
Omega 5.0 wiregates - THE rope end biner for sport climbing, and a great huge biner for docking crap to at multipitch belays
12' rabbit runner - Ok, granted it doubles the force on one leg, but I run that to the best piece and consider it an advantage.
Villians in Black Hats:
Omega locking D's - Really good for, um, connecting 1" webbing to other 1" webbing. Crap gate clearance, fills up quick, and make a crappy TR powerpoint when opposed.
Omega ovals - After using BD's, these feel like wearing somebody else's underpants
The middle mark on my beal booster - Love the rope, but after a couple of trips the middle mark looks like just another dirty patch.
Tech cord - A miracle of science, but not really good for anything people use it for. Sling a hex with it and even though it's stiff, it weakens where it's flexed repeatedly. Use it in a cordelette and you're getting unnecessary strength at the expense of some dynamic element.
DMM Peenuts - Take over nicely where the HB aluminums stop with only a small gap, but way jingus in shallow spots. The cable on the smallest ones doesn't seem centered, there is way more metal on one side of it than the other. Also don't have the concave middle section that is the real genius feature of the HB's
Metolius multiloop gear sling - Maybe I'm just a harness racker for life, but this thing just doesn't work for me. On aid the front two loops are useful, but anything on the back two might as well be on the ground unless I'm at a no-hands stance.
Mad Rock Paradox - jams on anything but an OP Jake, and the loop is too long.
Noble, but tragically flawed:
The Ward Smith Rumney guide - good guidebook once you know the area and have some points of reference, but badly needs an update.
Orange webbing - I prefer dayglow webbing rather than camo colors for TR rigs at crags where non-climbers can be in the area, but whatever dye is used in the orange stuff can stain your entire world magenta if it gets wet. The dye comes out, but it's still a pain.
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fenderfour
Mar 3, 2006, 3:49 PM
Post #27 of 112
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Registered: Sep 12, 2005
Posts: 177
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Grivel Air Tech Evo - Superlight T-rated axe. With the help of a second tool, it can climb moderate ice.
Serratus Icefall - damn you MEC!!!!
BD Oval Wires - I just like 'em. I like 'em on draws, I like 'em for aid, I like 'em on screws.
Mountain Tools Web-o-lette (biggest) - compact and super-easy to set up.
Feathered Friends Helios Jacket - Da shit. It's light, warm and puts a smile on my face when I put it on.
Leeper Cam Hooks - just scary enough to be fun
Stuff I didn't like:
GoLite Gust - too big for a frameless pack
BD Micro Camalots - too stiff for shallow placements
Leashes on ice tools - hehe
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kubi
Mar 3, 2006, 4:03 PM
Post #28 of 112
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Registered: Sep 15, 2004
Posts: 815
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I forgot my two favorite peices of gear.
MSR Hubba Hubba tent - the perfect summer camping tent. The upper part of the tent is almost completly mesh, without the fly on you feel like you are sleeping under the stars, without the bug problem. If there's a chance of rain you can put the fly 1/2 on, if it starts raining it takes about 30 seconds to hop up, and flip the fly over the whole tent. Pretty damn light and it's even got 2 big vestibules and 2 big doors.
MH Phantom 32 sleeping bag - packs down as small as a nalgene, weights almost nothing, and keeps me warm down to freezing. Best sleeping bag I own.
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kimgraves
Mar 3, 2006, 9:57 PM
Post #29 of 112
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Registered: Jan 13, 2003
Posts: 1186
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Great Topic,
Trophy: (in no special order)
Trango Piranha: so small, so light, is right.
Frost Works Sentinel Nuts: only Frost makes them like they used to.
Petzl Shunt: it works and is so easy that you can't say no to using it.
Black Diamond Winter Bivi: I was worried it would be TOO light. But it's da' bomb. Very warm and tight. Could use as a summer bag with clothing.
CiloGear 60L Worksack pack: covered in my review.
Metolius Personal Anchor System (PAS): for multi-pitch trad. Solves so many problems. If you can buy it without the biner, do so. The biner sucks.
HB Dyneema Helmet: no longer made. :cry:
Chouinard-Frost Piolet: no longer made
http://www.climbaz.com/...phics_s/page33_s.JPG
Integral Designs Denali Pants: the belay jacket for your legs.
Edited to add some stuff I forgot:
Patagonia DAS Parka - Not just warm, but physiologically comforting as well.
Hydration bladders: There is just no other way to keep up with hydration needs. I use a CamelBack, but I'm sure any of them work fine.
ClifBars and ClifShot: This shit really works - at least for me.
Tasty Bites: finally a bagged meal that actually tastes good. I juice them up with red pepper flakes, butter (in the winter) and more salt. Too heavy for backpacking, but fine for overnight trips or walls, etc.
Granite Gear Compression stuff sacks. This picture shows the regular. But you can get the super light weight sacks that weigh about half the regular. And you WON'T believe how they'll compress your synthetics down.
Books about gear and how to use it:
Extreem Alpinism by Mark Twight. Even for the gumby like me, there is gobs of info in this book.
Beyond Backpacking: Guide to Lightweight Hiking by Ray Jardine. Light is right and Jardine makes strong arguments. The book is dated now - you can buy lightweight gear rather than having to make it - but is a useful read.
Materials:
Primaloft: The marketing problem with this new insulation is that it doesn't have the loft of other synthetics. But it doesn't need it - in the same way a wool blanket doesn't have loft but is warm non-the-less. I now own booties, belay pants, and belay mitts made out of primaloft. This stuff is very comfortable and very warm.
EPIC fabric: This new fabric has no film. So it's completely breathable. But still highly water resistant and windproof.
Polartec fabrics. So many fabrics - so little time.
Pile of Shit:
MSR Dragonfly: works, but it's too complicated.
Trophy/Pile of Shit - can't decide:
CCH Aliens Cams - can't live with 'em, can't live without 'em.
Best, Kim
(This post was edited by kimgraves on Dec 31, 2006, 8:16 PM)
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euroford
Mar 4, 2006, 3:31 AM
Post #30 of 112
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
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you are sooooooo right about that BD winter bivy. who woulda thunk you could have that much additional protection with that little bit of weight?
speaking of lightweight bivy's: i have a north face synthetic 40deg. bag, i forget what its called, but its ultralight, cut slim and doesn't have a full hood. combined with the bd winter bivy and a granite gear air compressor (small) stuff sack i have an awsome summer bivy kit the size of a football weighing in at 2lb 4oz total.
The Petzl O-Wall. light, big, strong keynose ovals just designed for going on your aiders.
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microbarn
Mar 4, 2006, 5:54 AM
Post #31 of 112
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Registered: May 12, 2004
Posts: 5920
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I put a lot of thought into this, and the only outrageously wonderful thing I can think of is:
pajama pants
All my other gear I choose because I like it, and I would probably buy much of it again. However, that is the only one that I would be hurting without.
Suck:
figure 8 or any variation
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rocketsocks
Mar 4, 2006, 9:00 AM
Post #32 of 112
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Registered: Feb 11, 2006
Posts: 179
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Awesome:
- Marmot DriClime Windshirt (you can keep your softshells, this thing is awesome, super versatile, just short of bomber even in hurricanes and thunderstorms yet weighs nothing)
- Salomon XA Pro 2 Trail Runners (best. shoe. ever. I wear them all the time, even at work)
- Prana Stretch Zions (these are the pants I've been looking for)
- Gerber Harsey Air Ranger Knife (light despite being entirely metal, works one handed, nice blade, pretty much bulletproof, when you have that "f*ck I need a knife!" thought, this is the knife you hope is in your pocket)
- Western Mountaineering HighLite sleeping bag (not for all seasons, but super light, packs super small without a compression sack, and pretty toasty unless it's close to freezing)
Flawed Yet Good:
- Hind DryLite boxers (best underwear I've ever worn - including $20+ Nike Dri-FIT and Calvin Klein CoolMax, but with the annoying flaw of having non-elastic stitching on the waistband, so unless you have stick like legs and no thighs you're going to bust the stitching, they'll still work but they'll look kinda ratty after a while)
Definitely Not Awesome:
- Terramar clothing (costs 30% less than the leading brands with 30% of the quality, what a steal!)
- GoLite Gust Pack (big, cheap, and strong, but very poorly designed)
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roshampo
Mar 6, 2006, 5:59 PM
Post #33 of 112
(17717 views)
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Registered: Feb 1, 2005
Posts: 65
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Favorite Gear:
Marmot Pinnacle w/Dry-loft Shell- the best sleeping bag I'll ever own. The dry-loft shell keeps out light rain and condensation from rolling against the side of your tent.
Osprey Vertigo - great cragging pack and great for multipitch where you need to carry a fair bit. Compresses with the best of them, and the internal daisy chain allows you to attach gear without dropping it off pitch 5 when you open your pack. No complaints at all.
Sterling 9.8mm 70m rope - people were dissing it, but the thing is great. My only complaint is that it picks up alot of dirt.
Dislikes:
Omega Pacific Dovals - I Fing hate these. I really do. The only thing these guys get used for is bail biners. The gates frequently stick open even after repeated cleaning. No redeeming qualities.
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j_ung
Mar 6, 2006, 6:52 PM
Post #34 of 112
(17717 views)
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
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Love 'em:
Fiveten Moccasyms
CAMP Nano Wires
TCUs and Power Cams
Can't stand 'em:
Extraneous gear that over complicates things, such as the PAS and any type of rope hook.
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jakedatc
Mar 6, 2006, 7:34 PM
Post #35 of 112
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Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
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In reply to: The Ward Smith Rumney guide - good guidebook once you know the area and have some points of reference, but badly needs an update.
hehe yea it does.. they have been busy up there.. luckily i know some of the developers and my book is pretty filled in :) (pretty sure they are working on a new one)
Love it:
OP JC's i screw up clips with anything else
La sportiva testarossas
La sportiva Miura
Petzl Adjama harness. for sport it is perfect..
Mammut Infinity 9.5mm
Franklin/BD Dropzone
dislike:
Any autolocking biner.. if i want it locked... i'll lock it
Metolius cams.. trigger bar suucks
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caughtinside
Mar 6, 2006, 7:58 PM
Post #36 of 112
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
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Good:
The Grigri. The thing is so versatile. I will never understand people's aversion to the thing.
Aliens. Still my favorite cams.
Neutrinos. Got a rack full of them. light, good action.
SmartWool socks. Love them.
Belaying gloves. Why I didn't start belaying with gloves sooner I don't know. Doesn't matter what kind, they keep your hands clean and feeling good, not fatigued. Combine with grigri for best results. :)
Salomon shoes, with the kevlar zip close. grippy sole, don't have to tie which is good if you're lazy like me.
Booty. You know it!!
Bad:
Omega lockers. no gate clearance at all. Heavy. Actually, I don't think highly of most Omega biners. The JCs are ok...
Draws that are stiff on both ends.
Want to try:
The cinch. Love the grigri so much, but want to compare it to the cinch.
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graniteavenger
Mar 6, 2006, 8:07 PM
Post #37 of 112
(17717 views)
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Registered: May 8, 2004
Posts: 98
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LIKE:
-La Sportiva Trango S; The pre gtx version. Awesome boot, super light.
-Marmot Driclime windshirt/Mountain Equipment Microtherm smock. 2 really similar, and both outstanding, pieces of kit. Cheap, light, and they work.
-Lowe Alpine "Alpine Attack Summit 30L" (simmilar to the Serratus Genie pack). Ultra light, as simple as they come, and now really old.
-Beal Cobra 2 8.6mm 60m dry ropes. Its a Beal rope. 'nuff said.
-Arcteryx Skaha trousers. Bomber construction, great cut, very comfy.
-Metolious nut tool. The one with the wire gate built into it. Its helped me crag swag a bunch of stuck gear. Also helps get my gear out too.
-Petzl Reverso. Brilliant piece of kit, very useful.
-Rab Event smock. Event, the only waterproof/breathable worth considering. Not tried it yet? Then you don't know what you're missing.
Dislike
-DMM peanuts. crap.
-Auto locking biners.
-Black Diamond Space Shot head torch. Bought to replace a Myo 5 belt that was nicked. The light works ok, but it doesn't compare to my old Myo.
-5 day work week. Gets in the way of fun time. I try to avoid these as much as possible.
-Berghaus paclite jacket. The worst fit of any jacket I have ever worn. Also very poor construction. Officially relegated to Pub coat.
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slacklinejoe
Mar 6, 2006, 8:21 PM
Post #38 of 112
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Registered: Nov 5, 2003
Posts: 1423
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Love:
Webolette - very underrated
GriGri
WC Heliums
Pink Tri-Cam - who can't love this peice?
BD Keylock lockers
Misty Mountain Cadillac harness
Evolv Bandits
Mammut Champ Pants (softshell)
Mammut Laser Jacket (softshell)
Mammut 8 mm slings
Jet Boil
Big Anges Insulated Air REM pads (need a good night sleep to climb better)
Hate:
OP lockers - used to use them exclusively due to price and can't stand them anymore
OP SBG II belay device
Chalkballs - sorry, they work for some but I just can't get the right amount of chalk.
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smallclimber
Mar 6, 2006, 9:15 PM
Post #39 of 112
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Registered: Nov 11, 2003
Posts: 301
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My best buy ever.....
Koflach Arctis Expe in US size 4.5. They don't make them that small anymore, I bought what might be the worlds last pair from Mountain Gear 3 years ago. Worth their weight in gold becouse no other high altitude boot is available in such a small size. See them in action on my profile pic....
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vegastradguy
Mar 6, 2006, 10:49 PM
Post #41 of 112
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
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stuff i like:
WC Helium carabiners- they form the backbone of my rack. i still carry some cheapies for carabiner brake raps and bail biners, but workhorse duty falls to these every time. get 'em on sale, though....
Edelweiss Laser 9.6mm- I've been pleasantly surprised with this rope. I bought it as a cheapie 60m throwaway and its become my primary rope...
Osprey Vertigo 25- I've come to really like this pack. Its big enough to lug large loads, but folds small enough and rides comfortably enough to climb with it on your back, despite its size.
Osprey Daylite- I've had mine since I started climbing and its still my primary multipitch pack. Just big enough for water, food, keys, and a jacket, this bag rocks!
WC Superlight Rocks- These little stoppers are just neat- I really like 'em. A perfect supplement set to your standard stoppers.
HB Offsets- Anyone who doesnt like these things is a fool. They go where no other stopper will and I havent used a regular stopper in years because of them.
ATC-Guide- The new king of the autoblockers. I had the chance to review it for this site, and ever since its first use, I can't imagine using a different device....far superior to every other device i've used or looked at.
Cloudveil Serendipity Jacket- the best softshell out there, imho. I've been beating the shit out of mine for three years now, including scraping up untold numbers of chimneys and offwidths in it, and it still looks and feels new. The DWR has worn off, but Nikwax takes care of that once a year anyway!
Yates Astroman- Read the my comment on my Serendipity Jacket. I bought them both at the same time, and my Astroman has seen probably 10x the abuse my jacket has and it still looks pretty new, despite the dirt and grime on it....I couldnt recommend a better harness (provided it fits you!)
Brands I love- WC, Black Diamond, Cloudveil, Metolius, Yates. If its made by these guys, I'd recommend it, even if I don't use it myself. They all make awesome gear and you'd be hard pressed to really disklike anything they make!
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hosh
Mar 6, 2006, 10:59 PM
Post #42 of 112
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
Posts: 1662
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you guys should check out: rant and rave! Not climbing specific, but if you've got iTunes, then it's some pretty funny stuff. And the guy who usually is sitting on the left is one of my buddies from College. He's one of the most pesimistic guys I've ever met. I love it!
hosh.
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euroford
Mar 9, 2006, 12:05 AM
Post #43 of 112
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
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i dig: good customer service from mailorder companies.
i've ordered from allot, but by far and away the best has been gearexpress.com (Starved Rock Outfitters, a good ol IL companie w00t) and direct from Black Diamond. both have gone the extra mile to get me exacly what i want exacly when i want it and always at a price better or equal to everybody else. extra props to BD as i've made several particular request to them which they have always made extra good on. they have even called me minutes after a web order just to make sure they were getting it right.
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caughtinside
Mar 9, 2006, 12:09 AM
Post #44 of 112
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
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Something I don't like:
Multi-loop gear slings. This is probably more of a personal preference thing, but I don't like them. I have trouble reaching the stuff on the back loop, even if I swing it around. Give me the single loop!
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microbarn
Mar 9, 2006, 12:16 AM
Post #45 of 112
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Registered: May 12, 2004
Posts: 5920
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euroford, what are you always ordering that is so specialized????
also, nice sig
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euroford
Mar 9, 2006, 1:24 AM
Post #46 of 112
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
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In reply to: euroford, what are you always ordering that is so specialized???? also, nice sig
i've wanted thing in particular colors (like biners and slings for orginization) and i've wanted things delivered at particular times and places so i could have them for trips. i've also wanted some weird things like ice tool/leash parts or crampon bolts that arn't listed as regular products. they've always pulled through.
yeah man, we have to put a STOP to this visuous substance!!
i also TOTALY HATE multi loop gear slings. sometimes you want to shift everything back to get it out of your way, you can't! they suck!! good one man! my partner has one of the metolius jobbers, i've used it, it sucks.
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healyje
Mar 9, 2006, 1:37 AM
Post #47 of 112
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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
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The only thing multi-loop gear slings are good for is racking a quantity of pins.
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microbarn
Mar 9, 2006, 1:40 AM
Post #48 of 112
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Registered: May 12, 2004
Posts: 5920
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If it bothers you that much, you could just clip both strands at once when forced to use them.
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charley
Mar 9, 2006, 1:50 AM
Post #49 of 112
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Registered: Apr 13, 2002
Posts: 6627
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In reply to: If it bothers you that much, you could just clip both strands at once when forced to use them.
It still doesn't ride right.
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tattooed_climber
Mar 9, 2006, 2:12 AM
Post #50 of 112
(17717 views)
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Registered: Dec 13, 2003
Posts: 4838
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MEC Northern Lite Pullover
Mine with just stolen 3 weeks ago and i JUST snagged the last one from MEC in vancouver considering its now been discontinued with NO replacement or newer version planned....
GET FUCKED!! ITS MINE MOTHER BITCHES!!!!!!!!!!!!! :lol: :lol: :twisted: :twisted:
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