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landgolier
Mar 30, 2006, 6:07 PM
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In reply to: mine's been on backorder from moosejaw.com for almost 2 months now, i wanna know how many people have actually gotten their hands on it because they're tellin me BD had problems with production. i know some people have, but is it in full production yet.
Another victim of the Moosejaw backorder scam. 80% of the stuff I have ever ordered from them has been backordered, and I've had it out with their customer service over this. What I can't figure out is why they ever both to take anything off of their website because it's out of stock.
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csgambill
Mar 30, 2006, 6:31 PM
Post #27 of 48
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In reply to: In reply to: mine's been on backorder from moosejaw.com for almost 2 months now, i wanna know how many people have actually gotten their hands on it because they're tellin me BD had problems with production. i know some people have, but is it in full production yet. Another victim of the Moosejaw backorder scam. 80% of the stuff I have ever ordered from them has been backordered, and I've had it out with their customer service over this. What I can't figure out is why they ever both to take anything off of their website because it's out of stock.
Well, I just applied for an accounting manager position with Moosejaw, but they haven't gotten back to me. If they'd hire me I probably could have helped speed up the distribution. Oh well. I'm a little overqualified for that job anyway and my current consulting position just got extended until September. 8^)
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landgolier
Mar 30, 2006, 6:51 PM
Post #28 of 48
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In reply to: Well, I just applied for an accounting manager position with Moosejaw, but they haven't gotten back to me. If they'd hire me I probably could have helped speed up the distribution. Oh well. I'm a little overqualified for that job anyway and my current consulting position just got extended until September. 8^)
I don't know if it's a merch flow problem or a cash flow problem, they just never seem to have stuff on hand. I know their retail staff spends a lot of time plucking stuff from the shelves and shipping it as orders, which can't be any fun for them or any good for their inventory management.
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devkrev
Apr 1, 2006, 2:34 PM
Post #30 of 48
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LONG LIVE THE MAMMUT MATRIX!!!
that is all
dev
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colotopian
Apr 3, 2006, 3:50 AM
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I've got one. Its pretty dope. Fat ropes do lock the thing up early though. I'm guessing it will wear a bit and work fine though. They used a lot of aluminum to make them, which is nice. They should last a while that way. I, too ordered one and it never came in. So I canceled the order from bdel and just bought one from a local store. This is a better way to get gear though I think. Its a little more expensive usually, but most of the people who work in the local shops I know and know climb so its nice to support the community this way.
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alpine_monk
Apr 3, 2006, 8:00 PM
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In reply to: LONG LIVE THE MAMMUT MATRIX!!! that is all dev |
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rhyang
Apr 3, 2006, 8:44 PM
Post #34 of 48
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In reply to: In reply to: The reversino weighs 57g and is rated for use with 7.5-8.2mm doubles/twins. I've rapped on it with my 8.1's (PMI verglas) and it's fine. I'm sure the reversino works fine w/ skinny ropes, just like the reverso works fine w/ larger ropes. The guide does both well. A reverso and a reversino combined are heavier than on atc-guide. (although, unless you were using both larger and more skinny ropes in the same day, this would be a not weight issue, as you'd just cary one of the two. it would remain, however, a cost issue). The reverso is a terrific device (although IMO inferior). Everything is a trade-off. If the 20g saved going w/ a reverso (or 35g saved going w/ a reversino) is more important to you the improved handling and versatility of the guide, by all means, enjoy your svelt device. For me the handinling and versatility is more important. climb on. -bob
My 8.1's and reversino are primarily for alpine ice climbing. I own an atc, atc xp, and a reverso as well, and use them for other purposes. Of course there is no need to bring all of them at once, unless I was cragging with a group with various sized ropes. If at some point that sort of thing starts to appeal to me, then perhaps I will purchase an atc guide. Until then ... 8^)
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rhyang
Apr 3, 2006, 8:49 PM
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Interesting article. Who else leads ice on a single 10.5mm with a 7mm rap cord ? Most people I have climbed with use doubles or twins.
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dps
Apr 4, 2006, 4:37 AM
Post #36 of 48
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I lead most pure ice climbs with a 9.1 mm or 10 mm single rope (depending on how long the approach is, etc..) and rap with a 6mm pull cord.
The only time I take doubles is if I'm trad mixed climbing or alpine climbing and might need to do some double rope trickery.
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kricir
Apr 4, 2006, 5:38 AM
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I also sometimes use a 10 mm lead line and a 6 mm tag line on multi pitch routes, it is a good system, though rapping on 6 mm can be scarry sometimes.
I have an ATC guide, before that I used a normal ATC outside and a grigri in the gym. I have only used it once, and it was on a really windy day, so on one of the raps I chose to lower my partner then rap myself, instead of try to throw the ropes into the wind. My partner for the day is about 30 - 40 pounds heaver then I, and I had no trouble lowering him. My only complaint is that is was very hard and slow to take in rope during auto-blocking mode ( to be fair I must say that I am new to auto-blocking, and may just need some practice) - good device over all, but it won't see any use on single pitch routes or in the gym.
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jimdavis
Apr 4, 2006, 6:01 AM
Post #38 of 48
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In reply to: I also sometimes use a 10 mm lead line and a 6 mm tag line on multi pitch routes, it is a good system, though rapping on 6 mm can be scarry sometimes. I have an ATC guide, before that I used a normal ATC outside and a grigri in the gym. I have only used it once, and it was on a really windy day, so on one of the raps I chose to lower my partner then rap myself, instead of try to throw the ropes into the wind. My partner for the day is about 30 - 40 pounds heaver then I, and I had no trouble lowering him. My only complaint is that is was very hard and slow to take in rope during auto-blocking mode ( to be fair I must say that I am new to auto-blocking, and may just need some practice) - good device over all, but it won't see any use on single pitch routes or in the gym.
Yeah, next to a grigri or a cinch...most of those devices are hard to take slack in, while autoblocking. With the grooves in the device, I can't see how it'd be any easier to take in slack, than with a b-52 or a reverso.
Cheers,
Jim
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crackboy
Apr 5, 2006, 9:02 PM
Post #39 of 48
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apparently BD is having trouble with dye or soething with the guide so they are pushing back full release til july. so that s why they weren't shiping direct i had an order since february that finally got cancelled, i just ordered mine from mgear this morning which had them in stock.
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chossmonkey
Apr 5, 2006, 10:52 PM
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I ordered ours from Gear Express in mid Jan. We got them mid March. Apparently they had to almost beg BD to ship the few they did get.
They are way better than the Reverso. One thing the ATC-Guide has that the Reverso doesn't is breaking power. For fatter ropes you can use it without the extra breaking.
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trainor
Apr 5, 2006, 11:04 PM
Post #41 of 48
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just picked mine up from rock and snow when i went there to get a c3. I've heard so much about them not putting out more and terrible stuff about moosejaw.com that i canceled my order. oh well, I'll just go play with the first c3 rock and snow has sold. till then.
-trainor
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matt17
Apr 5, 2006, 11:32 PM
Post #42 of 48
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Which has more and deeper groves the XP or the guide?? or ar they the same??
im thinking about getting an XP should i just get the guide instead?? its really not that much more and it gives another option.
thanks\
matt
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colotopian
Apr 6, 2006, 12:24 AM
Post #43 of 48
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In reply to: Which has more and deeper groves the XP or the guide?? or ar they the same?? im thinking about getting an XP should i just get the guide instead?? its really not that much more and it gives another option. thanks\ matt
If you lead a lot in trad, get the Guide, why not?
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vegastradguy
Apr 6, 2006, 4:35 AM
Post #44 of 48
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In reply to: Which has more and deeper groves the XP or the guide?? or ar they the same??
The XP provides more friction than the Guide does. The autoblock function on the Guide prevents it from providing as much friction as the XP.
if the regular ATC is normal friction, the Guide is twice the normal friction while the XP is three times the normal friction.
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veganboyjosh
Apr 6, 2006, 4:39 AM
Post #45 of 48
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Registered: Dec 22, 2003
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In reply to: In reply to: Which has more and deeper groves the XP or the guide?? or ar they the same?? The XP provides more friction than the Guide does. The autoblock function on the Guide prevents it from providing as much friction as the XP. if the regular ATC is normal friction, the Guide is twice the normal friction while the XP is three times the normal friction.
this is true. i've found tho, that when rapping (especially overhanging raps, where i'm out in space) that the increased friction of the xp makes for a rather bouncy ride. i'm 190 lbs, too.
since getting the guide, and rapping with it, i've found that i can do much more controlled faster raps with it, since it's less friction (even in hf mode), but when i pull the brake(side of the rope) back to lock off, it's solid. i like this cos i can rap faster and smoother without so much friction on my hands.
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vegastradguy
Apr 6, 2006, 4:45 AM
Post #46 of 48
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Which has more and deeper groves the XP or the guide?? or ar they the same?? The XP provides more friction than the Guide does. The autoblock function on the Guide prevents it from providing as much friction as the XP. if the regular ATC is normal friction, the Guide is twice the normal friction while the XP is three times the normal friction. this is true. i've found tho, that when rapping (especially overhanging raps, where i'm out in space) that the increased friction of the xp makes for a rather bouncy ride. i'm 190 lbs, too. since getting the guide, and rapping with it, i've found that i can do much more controlled faster raps with it, since it's less friction (even in hf mode), but when i pull the brake(side of the rope) back to lock off, it's solid. i like this cos i can rap faster and smoother without so much friction on my hands.
personally, from all the stories i've heard about rapping with the XP, its seems like the added friction is more a con than a pro.
i found the Guide to provide the perfect amount of friction on just about any rope I've rapped using it- from thin 7.8 twins to fat, old, crappy 10.2's.
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porcelainsunset
Apr 6, 2006, 8:21 AM
Post #47 of 48
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Registered: Sep 26, 2005
Posts: 289
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In reply to: Sometimes I have secret feelings of shame of being a gear slut. :lol:
Alas my friend, their is a twelve step program that will help you with these feelings...
1. Admit that you are powerless over your addiction to gear.
2. Came to believe that a gear connection greater than yours could restore your bank account to a positive status.
3. Made a decision to turn your will and life over to the climbing industry.
4. Make a fearless financial inventory of all funds spent on buying climbing gear at retail price.
5. Admit to God, yourself, and your belay partner the exact cost of this addiction.
6. Become entirely ready to drop out of college, quit your job, and apply to a local gear store or climbing manufacture, and your pro-deal remove the heavy burden of buying gear at MSRP.
7. Realize that even with your new savings you will need to beg your boss for a raise to support your ever growing addiction or be forced to move back in with your parents.
8. Make a list of all the gear that you know you F***ing need, and become willing to sell your text books to afford it, and to further separate yourself from your former life on a more socially accepted road.
9. Make direct amends to your bank account wherever possible by returning any gear that you bought from REI and then buying it again at wholesale.
10. Continue to update your list of needed gear as you explore new styles of climbing.
11. Continue to devote more and more of your life and soul to the demon of climbing, trying to only further immerse yourself in the scene.
12. Having received a raise and climbing gear cost cut in half, we realize that it is impossible to ever have a positive bank account, we admit our defeat, and take out another credit card, because we are only another $1000 away from all the gear we could ever want, at least for this month.
Optional 13. Get a friend hooked on your legal version of crack.
I am so bit by this demon :twisted:
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bobruef
Apr 6, 2006, 11:23 AM
Post #48 of 48
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Registered: Jul 22, 2005
Posts: 884
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Which has more and deeper groves the XP or the guide?? or ar they the same?? The XP provides more friction than the Guide does. The autoblock function on the Guide prevents it from providing as much friction as the XP. if the regular ATC is normal friction, the Guide is twice the normal friction while the XP is three times the normal friction. this is true. i've found tho, that when rapping (especially overhanging raps, where i'm out in space) that the increased friction of the xp makes for a rather bouncy ride. i'm 190 lbs, too. since getting the guide, and rapping with it, i've found that i can do much more controlled faster raps with it, since it's less friction (even in hf mode), but when i pull the brake(side of the rope) back to lock off, it's solid. i like this cos i can rap faster and smoother without so much friction on my hands. personally, from all the stories i've heard about rapping with the XP, its seems like the added friction is more a con than a pro. i found the Guide to provide the perfect amount of friction on just about any rope I've rapped using it- from thin 7.8 twins to fat, old, crappy 10.2's.
I find that the non-toothed side of the guide (like the xp) provides a smoother rap. If the friction is too much, one can always just flip the device arround.
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