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vegastradguy
May 23, 2006, 4:59 PM
Post #26 of 31
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
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In reply to: well i went to the store today and got them to let me see both a BD and metolius. I played around with them for about 10 minutes and came to the conclusion i like the BD's alot better. For a couple of reasons. I like the smoothness of the camming action. Metolius's seems to be kind of harsh/ choppy if that makes sense. Second The BD's are much easier to handle. The BD's trigger is much more egonical(spelling) than metolius. So i think im going to go with BD's in the medium to semi larger sizes and Metolius tcu's in the small sizes. Or something like that.
great job-- you'll be glad you went down and checked them out first.
a word of advice- Metolius' new ultralight tcu's are smaller and a little tougher to handle than the old ones (i prefer the old style if you can get your paws on 'em...they feel better because they're slightly larger and accomodate my fingers better). if you like BD's action, you may want to check out WC's or Trango's small cams, or possibly even Aliens (although, i'm still of the opinion that you may want to wait on those for a bit yet- i think Dave and CCH are working hard, but they still have a ways to go...). They are all single stem cams and will feel alot more like BD than the Metolius cams will.
anyway, just food for thought.
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hummerchine
May 24, 2006, 4:44 AM
Post #27 of 31
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Registered: May 7, 2006
Posts: 37
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Both brands RULE, I am a gear freak and own them all. Hard to go wrong here with this kind of superb quality and technology, boils down to personal preference. I'll give you my preference: Metolius Ultralights. And I seriously love them both, but the Ultralights are like so, uh, ultralight? I like to carry lots of gear, just did some killer routes at Idyllwild with triples of all size cams. Just try that with Camalots, ouch! On really long routes I used to use double Metolius and single BD, but it is simpler and lighter to go with all Metolius. Look at it this way: for the same weight, you can have more pieces. If you don't mind the Camalot weight, fine, but the triple Metolius with Nanos are pretty hard to beat. But hey, that's just what I like. If you prefer Camalots, I can't argue too much because they are so nice. Just either be bold, or get used to the extra poundage! Hope this helps...
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hummerchine
May 24, 2006, 4:48 AM
Post #28 of 31
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Registered: May 7, 2006
Posts: 37
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BTW, I like the Metolius TCU's to the largest size, then four cams.
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blake_wrinn
Jun 2, 2006, 6:45 AM
Post #29 of 31
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Registered: Jul 22, 2005
Posts: 26
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Well i'll tell you what. i own both. They are both great! but whatever you do, don't let the range finder on the Metolius cams be a deciding factor. Yeas, they do tell you when your placement is bomb proof, but you might end up leaving the cam stuck in tthe wall. just go in the space between the green and yellow for a good bomber placement.
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slimper
Jun 3, 2006, 6:46 PM
Post #30 of 31
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Registered: Mar 25, 2006
Posts: 83
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If it is at all possible I recommend finding somebody that will let you borrow their cams for a day, or haven forbid let you go climbing with them. Playing with cams on a bench at the store is better then nothing. However, it's hard to get a feel for a cam till you set it and see if in the crack. That being said I support the theory of buying a couple of both then bu more of the ones you like.
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mr8615
Jun 3, 2006, 7:14 PM
Post #31 of 31
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Registered: Mar 4, 2004
Posts: 1032
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Here's the best tip I got when I started buying trad gear: buy a set of nuts, climb on them for a long time, meet people who have cams and lead or follow on them. I honestly feel like learning trad on almost exclusively passive gear was enormously beneficial for me. Plus, the whole time I was climbing on my set of nuts and a few random hexes, I was getting to use other's cams here and there and was able to begin to form opinions on them. (I was way poor, so I ended up starting on rock empire cams, but I've since worked my way up to having my dream rack, tcu's, double aliens, double C4's from .5 to 3).
Best of luck,
Mark
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