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kaczoron
Jun 1, 2006, 9:33 AM
Post #26 of 33
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Registered: Feb 11, 2004
Posts: 68
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Although not specific to placing hexes in parallel cracks there's some great info on advanced hex placements over on Andy Kirkpatrick's site:
http://www.psychovertical.com/?Advancedhexplacements
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dirtineye
Jun 1, 2006, 10:50 PM
Post #27 of 33
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Registered: Mar 29, 2003
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In reply to: You can set them in any crack they fit in LOL! :D But no it doesn't have to be tapered. Try reading "Climbing Anchors" or "More Climbing Anchors". Two great books for beginners, intermediates and experienced. :roll:
Hmmm, would you care to lead, say, in pursuit of excellence at Twall on all hexes then?
OR, maybe something at Indian Creek? I've never been there, too far to go, but I hear hexes are a wonder in that place, H3LL yeah!
Roll your eyes at that.
You don't know what you are talking about.
Put the best gear you have for the placement in there, screw all this other nonsense.
And if that line is in a book, find that book and read IT, cause you ain't read or done enough to say what you say.
NOBODY puts hexes in parallel cracks unless they have to, and then if it is the wild country rockcentric, it is a fair bet, byt WHY do that if you avhe a cam, whihc is the PERFECT piece for a parallel crack, unless yo uare too stupid to sling it correctly, in whcich case, you are hopless anyway.
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tradrenn
Jun 2, 2006, 1:58 AM
Post #28 of 33
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Registered: Jan 16, 2005
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In reply to: so has anyone had a hex pull out of a parallel sided crack during a fall?
I have used #11 BD hex on one of routes in Quebec , it stayed in after I fell on in.
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jimfix
Jun 2, 2006, 2:56 AM
Post #29 of 33
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Registered: Aug 18, 2004
Posts: 314
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In reply to: The best hexes in my opinion are the dyneema slung wild country rockcentrics, which cam much better than the flat sided ones like BD or weird metoleus hexes.
OK, I love my metolius curved hexes (especially because there wired), but that's a preference thing. I'll admit that you cant do some of the cunning/suspect trick on psychovertical page with wired hexes. But they rack and place nicely.
Anyone tried CAMPs new curved hexes? I've read they're as close to WC rockcentrics as you can get without breaking the rules.
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z_rock90
Jun 2, 2006, 3:20 AM
Post #30 of 33
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Registered: Apr 18, 2005
Posts: 126
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here's another pic from metolius curved hex's
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/curvehex.htm
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el_layclimber
Jun 2, 2006, 4:29 AM
Post #31 of 33
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Registered: Jan 9, 2006
Posts: 550
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That photo of the hex comes from this:
http://www.climbaz.com/chouinard72/chouinard.html
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rockguide
Jun 2, 2006, 5:12 AM
Post #32 of 33
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Registered: Nov 8, 2004
Posts: 1359
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A truly parallel sided crack? no taper at all? No rock dimple to catch one edge? I am with Petsfed and dirtineye on that one.
Suppa sketch!
You in the market for lottery tickets? Nigerian inheritances?
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dirtineye
Jun 2, 2006, 5:43 AM
Post #33 of 33
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Registered: Mar 29, 2003
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In reply to: In reply to: The best hexes in my opinion are the dyneema slung wild country rockcentrics, which cam much better than the flat sided ones like BD or weird metoleus hexes. OK, I love my metolius curved hexes (especially because there wired), but that's a preference thing. I'll admit that you cant do some of the cunning/suspect trick on psychovertical page with wired hexes. But they rack and place nicely. Anyone tried CAMPs new curved hexes? I've read they're as close to WC rockcentrics as you can get without breaking the rules.
http://www.camp-usa.com/images/module/product/Carvex-Wired.png
OK, how the fvck do you make a .pmg file display???
http://students.washington.edu/sumo/racks/dyneema.jpg
Dude, they look just like em!
Thanks for that heads up, I have wanted something bigger than the wc # 9 for a while.
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