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markd


Aug 31, 2002, 1:17 AM
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Looking to get a list going of "must do crack climbs." Only post routes you've climbed at least on TR.

So what are they? I'll say,

Mayflower, Paradise Forks

Waterslip Down, Paradise Forks

Moby Dick Center, Yosemite

Atman, Red Rocks

Autumn, Red River Gorge



[ This Message was edited by: markd on 2002-08-31 01:22 ]


michaelmay513


Aug 31, 2002, 4:43 AM
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Crack of Doom 5.11c, City Of Rocks Idaho. Its a boulder problem start to finger tips to fist to off fist. 90ft long.


whipper


Aug 31, 2002, 7:18 AM
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AS far as single pitch goes:
Wine and Roses(11 a) at Freemont Canyon
Heart and Soul(10) at J-Tree
And go to Indian Creek


crackaddict


Aug 31, 2002, 9:55 AM
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Markd you have some of my favs on there.

Oh so many.

I have to say,

Fingers in a light socket 5.12a-11d, Indian Creek

Incredible Handcrack 5.10c, Indian Creek

The Crack House, Moab UT

Atman 5.10, Red Rocks

Moby Dick Center 5.10, Yosemite

Outer Limits 5.10, Yosemite

Davidsons Dihedral 5.11d, Paridise Forks

Paridise Lost 5.12, Paridise Forks

The Prow 5.11, Paridise Forks

Waterslipdown 5.10, Paridise Forks

Just to name a few.



Partner phylp


Aug 31, 2002, 10:23 AM
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I can't believe Moby Dick Center made this list twice! I found it so painful...





climbsomething


Aug 31, 2002, 11:07 AM
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(all at Indian Creek:)

Incredible Hand Crack, 5.10c
Fingers in a Light Socket, 5.11d/5.12a
Supercrack, 5.10a

Not like I didn't get spanked pretty hard on these routes, but they were very crack-a-licious indeed...

hehe, this thread woulda been incomplete without crackaddict!


beyond_gravity


Aug 31, 2002, 11:31 AM
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Burger and Fries (5.7) at Squamish


jer


Aug 31, 2002, 2:28 PM
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Perfect Fingers/joshua tree 5.10
Illusion Dweller/Joshua Tree 5.10
Cloud Tower/Red Rocks 5.11
Crimson Chrysalis/Red Rocks 5.8
Desert Reality/Red Rocks 5.11
Abracadaver/Cochise Stronghold 5.11
Vertigo/Eldorado 5.11
Bastille/Eldorado 5.7
Arkansas Reality/Sams' Throne 5.11
Alive and Awake/Arkansas 5.10
Silver Spider/Arkansas 5.11
Missoureality/Trappers, Missouri 5.10
Satans Corner/little cottonwood 5.8
Country Club Crack/Boulder cyn. 5.11
Athletes feat/Boulder Cyn. 5.11
Straw Turkey/Turkey Rock 5.10
Vanishing Point/Turkey rock 5.11
Casual Route/RMNP 5.9


apollodorus


Aug 31, 2002, 2:33 PM
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I can't believe nobody's said this yet: Bishop's Terrace in Yosemite. One long pitch, 5.8, up double cracks. The best of the best.

Central Pillar of Frenzy, Middle Cathedral in Yosemite. Four or five pitches up to 5.9. The worst pitch is the munge chimney at the bottom. The climb gets better and better as you go up.

Reed's Direct in Yosemite. One long pitch. The upper part has no rests for the hands, and it goes slightly OW at the top.

Sacherer Cracker on El Capitan. One pitch. 5.10 thin at the bottom, then gets wider and wider and wider until a gigantic cam is the only thing that will protect the top OW section.


stevematthys


Aug 31, 2002, 4:46 PM
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my favorite crack route would have to be Reggae of Eldorado Canyon


bigwalling


Aug 31, 2002, 5:22 PM
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Steel Monkey(12a) at Index. Still haven't made it to the top while on the lead or top rope. Bring a bunch of small pro. Maybe a few black aliens and #00 tcu's if you want to protect the bottom.


uncle_big_green


Aug 31, 2002, 9:43 PM
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Jer, you're fairly well travelled.

I know that there are 1000s of others that I haven't done, but here are some good ones that I have done:

Whimsical Dreams, S. Platte
Dungeon, S. Platte
Drumstick Direct, S. Platte
Too Much Crack, S. Platte
Wunch's Dihedral, S. Platte (last P isn't, but most of the climb is crack)
Center Route, S. Platte

Crack Attack, Red River Gorge
Inhibitor, RRG

Corn Flake Crack, Looking Glass, NC

Any recommended route at Paradise Forks, AZ

The Fox, Red Rocks

Conads, Lumpy Ridge

La Classica, secret crag (woody wall 2) in TN

Climb and Punishment, Vedauwoo
Kim, Vedauwoo

Agony, Seneca

* Note, I'm trying to list good climbs that mainly require crack technique. Other places that really don't require this technique, but offer high quality crack protected climbs are Eldo and T-Wall. There are good climbs at these places that do require crack technique such as Golden Locks (TW) and Blind Faith (Eldo), but everyone knows of them and they're still not the cream of the crop.

* Indian Creek is omitted for obvious reasons.



markd


Aug 31, 2002, 9:48 PM
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Nobody else has any favorite crack climbs?
A few more.......

Orange Out Direct, The Overlook, Arizona

Isaiah, The Overlook, Arizona

Middle Trinity, The Overlook, Arizona

2nd pitch Coyote Tower, Sedona

Dreamscape, Carver, Oregon

Peach Cling, Broughton, Oregon

Jamcrack, Yosemite

Outer Space, Leavenworth, Washington




[ This Message was edited by: markd on 2002-08-31 22:04 ]


apollodorus


Aug 31, 2002, 9:54 PM
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Try this for a semi-urban workout before taking on the Real Rock:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=5369"

[ This Message was edited by: apollodorus on 2002-08-31 21:54 ]


markd


Aug 31, 2002, 10:00 PM
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Nice picture Tom, did you climb the offwidth using those nice cams you made?



[ This Message was edited by: markd on 2002-08-31 22:01 ]


sickofla


Aug 31, 2002, 10:29 PM
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did anyone mention thin ice? or anything at the needles?


benfieldj


Sep 1, 2002, 5:57 AM
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Left Wall Dinas Cromlech North Wales 5.10c
Harpoon Ship Rock NC 5.10a
Golden Earring Moores Wall NC 5.7


Partner dondiego


Sep 1, 2002, 6:11 AM
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Jaws 5.9 - New River Gorge

There is a reason that it's named Jaws, it chews off your fingers but it's one of my all-time favorites.

-Don Diego-


natec


Sep 1, 2002, 9:02 AM
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Horton's Tree
New Yosemite
Jaws --- New River Gorge

Bishops Terrace
Jamcrack
Harry Daily Route
Chouinard Crack
Grant's Crack
Pot Belly
After 7
Pee Pee Pillar----Yosemite

The last pitch of Cat in the Hat---Red Rocks

The Burn---Seneca


topher


Sep 1, 2002, 9:19 AM
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penny lane squamish,
levis creest creek,
crazy chnuck comox lake
there all esier trad, climbs but there all clasics.


tylerphillips


Sep 1, 2002, 10:11 AM
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I'd agree with Bishops Terrace and would have to add the Second pitch of the Travlers Buttress (lover leap) as well. And any of the upper headwall pitches on Moonlight Buttress.( Not that I have sent a red-point try on upper moonlight)


Partner phylp


Sep 1, 2002, 11:59 AM
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Markd-
It's not that we can't think of must-do crack routes, it's just that there are so many of them that the question is near impossible. I can think of at least 40 must do pitches in the Valley alone (and I've not been on anything harder than 11+ so I'm sure my list would be lacking).
If I had to pick the ONE most perfect pitch I've done in the Valley I guess I would say the perfect 5.10 pitch on Hotline.
I asked my hubby what he would say to this question and he said - lot's on Lumpy Ridge in CO and lots on Cannon Cliff in NH.
Phyl


markd


Sep 2, 2002, 1:46 PM
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I realize there is many quality cracks, this thread is simply to point out peoples favorites.


bluesky


Sep 2, 2002, 3:55 PM
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Outer Space - Icicle Creek Wall - WA
Godzilla / City Park P2 / Slow Children - Index
Spiderman and Zebra-Zion and Badfinger- Smith
Kor's Flake and George's Tree - Lumpy
Climb and Punishment and Spectreman - Vedauwoo


atg200


Sep 2, 2002, 4:10 PM
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1. Kor's Flake and White Whale at Lumpy Ridge
2. Everything at Turkey Rocks in the South Platte
3. Everything at Indian Creek
4. P1 North Chimney Castleton Tower
5. Everything at Devils Tower(my favs are Assembly Line, Soler, Walt Bailey, TAD, One Way Sunset, and Tulgey Wood)
6. Classic Crack, Gods Own Drunk, Nick of Time in the BH Needles


benkiessel


Feb 4, 2003, 7:23 PM
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super crack-indian creek
roadside attraction-red river gorge
In Pursuit of Excellence-T-wall
bobsleding-red river (ok it is not the best crack in the world but it was my first trad lead)
simians to the sun-East animas
apple cider-East animas

[ This Message was edited by: benkiessel on 2003-02-04 19:26 ]


texplorer


Feb 4, 2003, 7:29 PM
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markd, I would not rank that broughton stuff even with 2 stars.

Here's my pics,

Cruel Sister .10a smith rocks
exasperator .10c squamish
outer limits .10b yosemite
Stecke Salathe .9 yosemite (every pitch)
outer space .9 leavenworth
north six shooter .11 indian creek
unnamed .10+ indian creek
blownout .10 beacon rock
free for some .11a beacon rock
Ja-man .11 castleton area

[ This Message was edited by: texplorer on 2003-02-04 19:30 ]


danl


Feb 4, 2003, 8:06 PM
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Supercrack of the gunks 12
Ringwraith gunks 10a
Buning calves NRG 10a
chasing the wind NRG 11


edited for spelling

[ This Message was edited by: danl on 2003-02-04 20:07 ]


phugganut


Feb 4, 2003, 8:15 PM
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For sentimental reasons, my favorite is Bastille Crack @ Eldorado Canyon. Back in '94 it was my introduction to rock climbing. 3 pitches of quality rock in a beautiful setting.


thegodfather


Feb 4, 2003, 8:45 PM
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brinton's crack, devils lake


Partner tim


Feb 4, 2003, 9:00 PM
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I liked:

Reppy's Crack (5.8) Cannon Cliff
Gamesmanship (5.8) Poke-O-Moonshine, Adirondacks
Just Jam It (5.9) Central Endless Wall, NRG
Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9+), Yosemite Valley
Strawberry Fields (5.9+), Old Rag Mountain
Igor Unchained to Airy Interlude (5.10), Needles
Crack of Dawn (5.10a), Seneca Rocks
Robbins' Crack (5.10a), Mount Woodson
Airation (5.10+?), Cathedral Ledge

I have heard that the Bushwhack Crack at Old Rag is another winner, at 5.10c, but I have not yet climbed it. Same thing with Agony at Seneca. Looks like I have some projects.

(edit: forgot Reppy's Crack and Airation)


[ This Message was edited by: tim on 2003-02-05 08:17 ]


space_monkey


Feb 4, 2003, 9:03 PM
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Welcome to the jungle - Devils Race Track
Finger lockin Good - T-wall
pursuit of Excellence - T-wall
classic crack - Laural Falls
Walk in the Park - Sunset
Special Olympics - Suck Creek
The Rose - Suck Creek


brutusofwyde


Feb 4, 2003, 9:25 PM
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Yosemite:
Twilight Zone
Meat Grinder
Chingando
Generator Crack
Reed's Left
Steck Salathe'
Astroman (Harding Slot)
Rostrum N. Face
Lost Arrow Chimney

Josh:
Drawstring
Deep Throat
Waterchute
Damper
Ipecac
Zigzag (second pitch)
Comfortably Numb
Perpetual Motion


Needles:
Igor Unchained

Utah:
Incredible Hand Crack
Super Crack
Generic Crack
Honeymoon Chimney

Arizona:
Mace



nlunstrum


Feb 4, 2003, 9:27 PM
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The Line. Lover's Leap, CA. (5.9)
Fingerlock. Sugarloaf, CA. (10b)


pbjosh


Feb 4, 2003, 9:35 PM
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To the earlier poster - Heart and Sole? File under great friction climbs

My personal list of best cracks I've climbed (and my ratings):

The Vampire, Tahquitz, 11a
Consolation, Tahquitz, 9
Insomnia, Suicide, 11b/c (ok not in great style)
Illusion Dweller, Jtree, 10a
Bird Of Fire, Jtree, 10a
More Monkey Than Funky, Jtree, 11b/c
Dolphin, Jtree, 7
Touch and Go, Jtree, 9
Poodles are People Too, Jtree, 10a
Farewell to Arms, Canon Tajo, 10c
Robbin's Crack, Woodson, 10a
Jaws, Woodson, 11a
Crucible, Woodson, 10b
3rd Pillar of Dana, Sierra, 10a
Outer Limits, Yosemite, 10b
Incredible Hand Crack, Indian Creek, 10b
Supercrack, Indian Creek, 10c

My top-ten list of stuff I want to send, be it dreaming or not:
Coyne Crack, Indian Creek, 12a
Crack House, Indian Creek, V9?
Seperate Reality, Yosemite, 11d
Rostrum, Yosemite, 11c
Atlantis, Needles, 11c
Romantic Warrior, Needles, 12b
Scary Monsters, Jtree, 11d
Scary Poodles, Jtree, 11b/c
Equinox, Jtree, 12c
Grand Wall, Squamish, 11a

..josh


thomascrown


Feb 4, 2003, 10:18 PM
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I also love Roadside Attraction at the Red. We did a midnight ascent of it my first time on it! It was excellent.


tedtiger


Feb 4, 2003, 10:45 PM
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  Best crack route in my opinion, exasperator 5.10 squamish B.C., (can be done as 2 pitch route I only did the first pitch, it started raining)

[ This Message was edited by: tedtiger on 2003-02-04 22:47 ]

[ This Message was edited by: tedtiger on 2003-02-04 22:49 ]


wildtrail


Feb 4, 2003, 10:49 PM
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Anything on granite, below 5.8.


danl


Feb 5, 2003, 5:57 AM
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forgot about one of the best crack lines

Open cockpit Gunks 11+


coclimber26


Feb 5, 2003, 6:17 AM
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Anaconda, Garden of the gods 5.11c
Bastille, Eldorado Canyon 5.7
Any route in the south platte.


crankenstein


Feb 5, 2003, 6:27 AM
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The best cracks I have climbed have to be at Squamish. Exasperater is the best single rope length of granite crack there is. Other great cracks are on the Grand Wall (both the Split Pillar and the Sword pitches) and don't forget Thin Crack on the Malamute. There are many other great crack lines there. Other really fun cracks in North America include the Center Route on Cynnical Pinnacle (Colorado), The Line at Lover's Leap, Central Pillar of Frenzy and Nutcracker in Yosemite, Bloody Fingers and Thin Slice at City of Rocks, Turnkorner and 3rd pitch of Pear Buttress at Lumpy Ridge..... The list could go on and on, and I don't consider myself to be much of a crack climber!
I forgot Darkness 'til Dawn at Eldo. My favorite crack there!

[ This Message was edited by: crankenstein on 2003-02-05 06:28 ]


climblouisiana


Feb 5, 2003, 6:40 AM
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Lizard Marmadlade Direct on Mt. Lemmon


rock_diva


Feb 5, 2003, 7:27 AM
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Incredible Hand Crack in Indian Creek.

Close seconds include:
Short Curcuit, Yosemite
Trinity Cracks, Oak Creek Overlook
The Prow, Paradise Forks
... and many of the Indian Creek cracks.


valygrl


Feb 5, 2003, 7:33 AM
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Yosemite
Lunatic Fringe
Catchy/Catchy Corner
Jamcrack
Central Pillar Of Frenzy
p3 of The Rostrum
p2 Gripper

Tuolumne
Lucky Streaks
West Crack (DAFF Dome)

Josh
Double Cross
Heart of Darkness

Red Rocks
last pitch of Cat in the Hat
Triassic Sands

Little Cottonwood Canyon
Beckeys Crack
Satans Crack

Indian Creek
Coyne Crack

The Needles
Airy Interlude
Thin Ice

Oooo, I'm all nostalgic now.

Edit: forgot The Needles (?)


[ This Message was edited by: valygrl on 2003-02-05 07:35 ]


aaron4peace


Feb 5, 2003, 7:37 AM
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Maggies Farm -Chatsworth

9-Lives -IC


martygarrison


Feb 5, 2003, 7:38 AM
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Third Pitch of Astroman, Yosemite
Separate Reality, Yosemite
Tales of Power, Yosemite
Crimsen Cringe, Yosemite


aaron4peace


Feb 5, 2003, 7:43 AM
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last pitch of squeeze on Lightening bolt??


apolobamba


Feb 5, 2003, 7:48 AM
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Consolation, Tahquitz, 5.9
Chuck Pratt Memorial. Hermit Spire, 5.9


michaelpaul


Feb 5, 2003, 8:03 AM
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Favorite cracks? Ah where to begin...
Perhaps: Equinox,More Monkey than Funky, Wangerbanger,Hot Rocks... at Josh.
Seperate Reality,Crimson Cringe,Butterballs,Tips, Goldfinger... in the Valley, but the list goes on and on!
Oh and by the way "Whipper", Heart and Sole is a slab climb on Echo Rock.

[ This Message was edited by: michaelpaul on 2003-02-05 08:06 ]


mikedano


Feb 5, 2003, 8:05 AM
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I spotted someone said 3rd pitch of Pear Butress at Lumpy in CO. Ya ya ya!!! That's the most beautiful pitch I've ever done!

Others I've liked have been (all in CO):
Kor's Flake, Lumpy 7
Melvin's Wheel, Lumpy 8
North center face, Cob Rock 7
Left handed jew, Turkey rocks 7
1st pitch of Great Zot, Eldo 8

And someone said Crymson Crystalis in Red Rocks? I did about 2 hand jams in 1,500 feet....


alpnclmbr1


Feb 5, 2003, 9:55 AM
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Traitor horn
Open book
The flower of high rank
Insomnia
The green arch
The vampire

Wanger banger
Heart of darkness
Equinox

Walt baileys
Macarthy west


Incredible hand crack****
Fingers in a light socket

Thin ice
The prow at the forks
Wine and roses
Country club crack
Terror in tiny town
Whimsical dreams

These are the ones I remember the most so I guess they are my favs



peas


Feb 5, 2003, 10:10 AM
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Two more for Squamish:
St. Vitus Dance 5.9
The Zip 10a


pranaguy


Feb 5, 2003, 11:05 AM
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So I just started climbing trad now, so my list is kinda small, but anyways, here it is.

Joshua Tree:
-Sail Away
-Touch and Go
-White Lightning

Tahquitz:
-Daves Deviation
-Wong Climb (or is it Long Climb? I always mix them up. The one on the left.)
-dihedral pitch of Whodunit

Oh yeah, and at Roubidoux, Turtle Dome Crack.

-Matt


crack_head


Feb 5, 2003, 11:21 AM
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yummy
i love cracks


braaaaaaaadley


Feb 5, 2003, 11:33 AM
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I second Jaws (5.9) at New River Gorge


dingus


Feb 5, 2003, 11:37 AM
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Giving the question serious thought, I honestly can't say... what's in a favorite? Pure climbing pleasure? Personal milestones? Top performance? Reptitions? Bragging rights? All of those things potentially go into the soup. I find it difficult to put my finger on any one route that includes them all however.

If I count repititions as the primary measure, say crack climbs I've done 10+ times as a start and then select my favs of that group, I'd suggest the gold standards of Yosemite moderates:

Serenity/Sons of Yesterday
CP of Frenzy
E. Butt of Middle
Regular Higher Spire
Braille Book
Bishops Terrace
Arrowhead Arete
Nutcracker
Jamcrack
Crescent Arch
West Crack
Regular Fairview
South Crack

Never seem to tire repeating those!

Honorable mentions (below 10 but so good I find myself thinking of them anyway)

Lucky Streaks
NE Butt of Higher Cathedral Rock
W. Ridge of Conness
3rd Pillar of Dana

Outside the Yosemight:
Rawhide
Fatcrackistan
3 Finger Jack
Gemini Cracks
War of the Walls
Nibbler
Tag Team
The Line
Corrigation Corner
Haystack
Surrealistic Pillar
One Hand Clapping

Done plenty of more difficult lines. Hard for a chicken like me to say they were my favs though.

DMT


madturtle


Feb 5, 2003, 12:38 PM
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Hospital corner 10a, traveller's buttress 9 -lovers leap

Retribution 10b, kens crack 7 -the gunks

first few pitches of RR on Fairview dome 9 -tuolomne


deed


Feb 5, 2003, 12:50 PM
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Spiderman - Smith Rock


davidji


Feb 5, 2003, 5:12 PM
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Fun ones I've seen on other people's lists-
Yosemite:
South Crack, Stately Pleasure Dome
Reg Rt, Fairview Dome
Jam Crack
Bishop's Terrace

JT (if you can consider a short pitch a *must do*):
Heart of Darkness. Great but short
Illusion Dweller. " "
Sail Away. " "


The rest are some fun crack climbs I haven't yet seen anyone mention

Dr. Evil, ORG. Perhaps the only sport climb to make these lists.


And if you like the wider side of crack climbing:
Bongs Away, Left, Yosemite.

Right Side of the Cookie, Yosemite. Tops out
with perfect hands, but a bit bigger below.

Full Body Stem, JT. You don't get to practice that move in the gym.


mesomorf


Feb 5, 2003, 5:43 PM
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Maybe these are not the all-time greats, but they stick in my memory:

Mr. Clean, Devil's Tower
Climb and Punishment, Vedauwoo
Black Elk, Wind River Range
Abracadaver, Cochise Stronghold
The Headache, Zion
10.96, Yosemite
Hotline, Yosemite (especially p3)
Sands of Time, Calaveras Dome
Pratt's Crack, Pine Creek Canyon (Sierra East side)
Bottomless Topless, Donner Summit

Some of these may be "mixed" - crack and face.

[ This Message was edited by: mesomorf on 2003-02-05 18:41 ]


kalcario


Feb 5, 2003, 5:57 PM
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IMO some of the best:

Don Juan Wall Needles

Hotline, Tips, Crack-A-Go-Go, Lunatic Fringe, Red Zinger, Anticipation, Ying Yang, Yosemite Valley

Primate Crossing, Speed of Life and Blues Riff Tuolumne

Monkey Paws Donner Summit





dirtme


Feb 6, 2003, 10:24 AM
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I haven't climbed in many places besides California. So, here's the ones I've done and have loved:

Sacherer Cracker 10a - how can you not like a crack that starts at fingers and ends in an offwidth.

Outer Limits 10d - 1st pitch has perfect hands at the top. The 2nd pitch is a really cool undercling.

Reeds Direct 10a - A little easier then Outer Limits but it's a great endurance builder.

Sons of Yesterday 10a - How did this not get mentioned?

Gripper - 1st and 3rd pitches. Some serious grovelling on the 1st pitch with the offwidths and the 3rd pitch is one of the best hand jamming you'll ever do.


couloir


Feb 6, 2003, 10:30 AM
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Mr. Natural 5.10c-Yosemite
Sherries Crack 5.10c-Yosemite
Peruvian Flake 5.10a-Yosemite
Arkansas Reality 5.11+-Sam's Throne, AR
Instant Karma 5.10+-Sam's Throne, AR
The Bolted One 5.11a-Jackson Falls, IL


rockprodigy


Feb 9, 2003, 9:05 AM
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Smith Rock:
Moonshine Dihedral
Wildfire
Kunza Corner
Wartley's Revenge
Sunshine Dihedral
Rising Expectations
Zebra Seam


rockprodigy


Feb 9, 2003, 9:09 AM
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Yosemite:
Double Cracks pitch on Reg NW Face of HD
Reed's Direct
Stovelegs!!
Flake pith on E. Butt Middle Cathedral
Sons of Yesterday
Sherrie's Crack
Wheat Thin
Serenity Crack
Changing Corners on Astroman
Crack-a-go-go
Red Zinger
Seperate Reality
Crimson Cringe
Fish Crack


rockprodigy


Feb 9, 2003, 9:16 AM
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Little Cottonwood Canyon:

Pentapitch
Satan's Corner
Crack in the Woods
Sasquatch
Green Adjective
Half a Finger
Coffin Crack
S Direct
Wheel's on Fire
Gordon's Hangover
Mexican Crack
Plumb Line
Gordon's Direct
Tick Fever
Looney Tunes
Stormy Resurrection
Mother of Pearl
Coyne's Crack
S-Crack
Right Trinity
Coffin Roof
Frozen Stool
On the Waterfront
Trench Warfare
Fallen Arches


rockprodigy


Feb 9, 2003, 9:21 AM
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Indian Creek:
Supercrack
IHC
Lightning Bolt Crack
Pitch 2 of Hummingbird spire-perfect hands!
Scarface
Coyne Crack
Johnny Cat
King Cat
Fuel Injected Hardbody
Digital Readout

Other Utah desert:
Ice Cream Parlor
Fine Jade
Jah Man
Boothill - Long Canyon


rockprodigy


Feb 9, 2003, 9:25 AM
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Colorado:
Boulder area:
Calipso
Bastille
Supremacy Crack
Country Club Crack
Gill Crack

Garden of the Gods:
New Era
West Point Crack
Anaconda
Kor's Corner

Lumpy:
George's Tree
J Crack

Grand Junction Area:
The Cruise
Stoned Oven
Fast Draw-Sentinel Spire


sonso45


Feb 10, 2003, 4:36 PM
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Coatamundi Whiteout-Granite Mtn
The Wasteland-Cochise Stronghold
Days of Future Passed-Stronghold
The Mace-Sedona
Watusi-Paradise Forks
Deep Freeze-McDowells
Mean Mistreater-Mt Lemmon
In AZ these are only a few of the greats.


buoux9


Feb 10, 2003, 4:39 PM
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Let's see.....
Dog Police .10 - Pine Creek - Red Rocks
Out Of Control .10c - Pine Creek - Red Rocks
Pillow Fight .10+ - Pillow Wall - Paradise Forks
Mr. Natural .10 - Glacier Pt. Apron - Yosemite
Paradise Lost .11+ - Davidson Wall - Paradise Forks
Coyne Crack .11+ - Indian Creek
Incredible Handcrack .10 - Indian Creek
Flails Of Power .11 - Cerebrus - Zion
Bloodline .10 - Pine Creek - Red Rocks
Psycho Snail .10b - Bowl Of Fire - Nevada
There are so many good cracks that I realize that it's somewhat difficult to sit here and list them all, but the memory of each one is so good. Gotta love it!

[ This Message was edited by: buoux9 on 2003-02-10 16:40 ]

[ This Message was edited by: buoux9 on 2003-02-10 16:41 ]


phoenix


Feb 10, 2003, 4:43 PM
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Tales of Power 12.B in Yosemite is definitely my favorite crack of all time. Flared squeeze chimney to finger crank mantel...into alcove...into the most amazing thin hands splitter known to man...slicing up a black streaked granite headwall...to the final overhanging sqeeze chimney. Simply pulchritudinous...


phoenix


Feb 10, 2003, 4:44 PM
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Oh, and astroman is nice too.


tayers


Feb 10, 2003, 6:27 PM
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Thin Ice 5.10 in the Needles Ca.
this is a must do for awsomes steepness and amazing scenery.


punk


Feb 10, 2003, 6:48 PM
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Spanish Harlem on 135 st meet POPO or in the Bronx G Money also East New York going to see Slam he have the best crack ever
Oh $hit we are not talking about this kind of crack…and it is too long to list


tayers


Feb 11, 2003, 6:05 PM
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Don't forget the rostrum in Yosemite super crack climbing. And rostroman is even better thats both in a day.


tanner


Feb 11, 2003, 6:37 PM
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A little testies 10b murrin park Squamish
Neat and Cool 10a bluffs squamish
misqueto 5.8 bluffs Squamish

3 crack climbs that I enjoyed


Partner camhead


Mar 1, 2003, 7:59 PM
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so many... time for a photo essay...

most have been said before in this thread. my all time favorite is Coyne Crack (5.12-):
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mp.cgi?Detailed=6787

another not mentioned yet at the creek is Cave Crack (.10+/.11-), awesome route that is in the shade at all times. Just don't stem it like Scott is:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mp.cgi?Detailed=6786

finally, if you guys don't believe that there are good cracks in texas, check out Enchanted Rock State Park

False Determination, 5.11- (sandbagged, photo by crackwhore)
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mp.cgi?Detailed=4686

and for my favorite layback in the world, check out Fear of Flying, 5.10:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=10804


bvb


Mar 2, 2003, 7:55 PM
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too many good cracks out there...how the hell do you narrow 'em down to a "best of" list??

some of my favorite ticks from 1973 to 1991, the years when i was lovin' cracks, in no particular order...

jaws, mt woodson
lie detector, mt woodson
tips, yosemite
fish crack, yosemite
city planning commission, escondido
dog's roof, yosemite
bird of fire, josh
central scutinizer, josh
simple simon, josh
supercrack, gunks
castaway roof, josh
baby apes, josh
the flying duchman, josh
pig pen, josh
wangerbanger, josh
digital readout, indian creek
coyne crack, indian creek
butterballs, yosemite
stubs, yosemite
kaukulator, yosemite

ahhh, what's the point? this list could go on for pages.

man, way too many good cracks out there...where's my rack?? :P


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