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angry
Aug 4, 2006, 5:17 PM
Post #26 of 36
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
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I carry mine as draws. Sure I like them better that way but that isn't my only reason.
A climber was strangled to death by his gear sling, it was runners over the shoulder that kept his gear sling on. This was a really wierd situation, but it did happen.
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crackboy
Aug 4, 2006, 10:51 PM
Post #27 of 36
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Registered: Jun 14, 2003
Posts: 323
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the bigger question is if you are so excitied about saving a biner by doing over the shoulder why are you clipping all your gear to your harness on its own biner?
:lol: :wink:
for the record i used to carry a bunch of naked slings over my shoulder, then i switched to only doubles closed witha biner, then i went to only a gear sling, now i try to not have anything on my neck
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climbinginchico
Aug 6, 2006, 2:56 AM
Post #28 of 36
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Registered: Mar 24, 2004
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I use only 8mm trad draws, but usually keep a naked nylon sling or 2 over my shoulder on longer routes in case I need it to bail, or klemheist, autoblock or something. Plus I feel better with the abrasion resistance of 9/16" nylon versus my shoelace Mammuts.
I don't like slings over my shoulder because you don't always have the right hand in a jam to slide the sling off the shoulder.
Trad draws just feel more natural to me- I'm able to slam in gear and extend it quickly, regardless of which hand I'm desperately hanging off of in a crappy stance but I need gear because I'm runout and this is my best option damn I hope I don't grease off before I get the rope clipped to this blue-green hybrid alien.
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crazyaboutclimbing500
Aug 6, 2006, 4:41 AM
Post #29 of 36
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Registered: Jul 25, 2006
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In reply to: I use only 8mm trad draws, but usually keep a naked nylon sling or 2 over my shoulder on longer routes in case I need it to bail, or klemheist, autoblock or something. Plus I feel better with the abrasion resistance of 9/16" nylon versus my shoelace Mammuts. I don't like slings over my shoulder because you don't always have the right hand in a jam to slide the sling off the shoulder. Trad draws just feel more natural to me- I'm able to slam in gear and extend it quickly, regardless of which hand I'm desperately hanging off of in a crappy stance but I need gear because I'm runout and this is my best option damn I hope I don't grease off before I get the rope clipped to this blue-green hybrid alien.
So when you place a cam, does it already have it's own biner that you have to take off before you clip the trad draw? (if that makes sense)
Daniel
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caughtinside
Aug 6, 2006, 6:29 AM
Post #30 of 36
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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In reply to: Trad draws just feel more natural to me- I'm able to slam in gear and extend it quickly, regardless of which hand I'm desperately hanging off of in a crappy stance but I need gear because I'm runout and this is my best option damn I hope I don't grease off before I get the rope clipped to this blue-green hybrid alien.
See, if i'm that desperate, i clip direct, and then extend...
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petsfed
Aug 7, 2006, 6:49 PM
Post #31 of 36
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
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When I carry a gear sling, I'll rack them all on my harness. No tangles that way. When I rack on my harness, I carry most of them on my shoulder. Again, no tangles that way. As for the one hand can't come off situation, I challenge anyone to find a situation where they honest to god can't simply adjust their body position to put the weight on the other arm while they free the sling. That's kind of the point, right?
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kachoong
Aug 7, 2006, 7:03 PM
Post #32 of 36
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
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I use both, slings on my harness and some over my shoulder. Those over the shoulder are quicker to place, but it's nice to have them tied to the harness too, especially the double and triple lengths. The ones on the harness more than likely end up in elaborate belays and the ones over my shoulder used as pro.
In reply to: As for the one hand can't come off situation, I challenge anyone to find a situation where they honest to god can't simply adjust their body position to put the weight on the other arm while they free the sling. That's kind of the point, right?
I'll usually sling them one in each direction over the top of one another (so alternating right and left shoulder). Chances are 50/50 I have the correct one.... and it's totally possible to get the one underneath off without changing hands. Pull the one that's underneath over your head and the one on top no longer "traps" it.... simple enough.
In reply to: In reply to: Trad draws just feel more natural to me- I'm able to slam in gear and extend it quickly, regardless of which hand I'm desperately hanging off of in a crappy stance but I need gear because I'm runout and this is my best option damn I hope I don't grease off before I get the rope clipped to this blue-green hybrid alien. See, if i'm that desperate, i clip direct, and then extend... |
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virginia_alpinist
Aug 7, 2006, 8:35 PM
Post #33 of 36
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Registered: Feb 8, 2005
Posts: 79
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Well, having been climbing long alpine routes for over 30 years I have come up with a "mixed" system that works well "for me".
I am right handed so carry my sling with the gear hanging on my right side. I then carry 6 double length (24") slings with a single biner hanging on my left side.
I also carry 6 (rabbit/rapid runners - Yates) on my left which also have a single biner on them. These are great utility slings for hanging on chockstones/chickenheads etc. or as a regular double runner.
I will then carry 4 12" quickdraws, 2 on each side of my harness (on the front most loops) for those places where I am "gripped"! This has worked well. Modify the numbers depending on route length etc.
-Lee
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antiqued
Aug 7, 2006, 11:05 PM
Post #34 of 36
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Registered: Aug 18, 2005
Posts: 243
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In the spirit of completeness
I carry a few over the shoulder runners, without biners. I have found that more than one or two runners with biners start tangling, and require additional time to deploy. Yes, sometimes they are on wrong side and would require fidgeting , contortions, topology, etc to use them. I just use a trad-triple instead. Much of the time, long runners are placed from good stances - around trees, at or just above big ledges, etc. And they are handy setting up equalized pieces in belays, usually at good stances. So I rarely have issues with runners over the shoulder that I cannot use. Six seems a good number - 2 en route, 2 for the belay, and a pair as required, or for self rescue purposes, so I can feel prepared.
( I bought a pair of rabbit runners this winter, and it seems good so far. )
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j_ung
Aug 7, 2006, 11:18 PM
Post #35 of 36
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
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In reply to: ....*shrug*....I just do whatever my husband tells me to do :lol: :D :wink: :righton:
I'm experiencing no small measure of difficulty deciding between hundreds of filthy possibilities. I'll go with this one: Next time you kids stay at our place, I hope your husband tells you to do something quieter so I can get some sleep. :P
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norushnomore
Aug 9, 2006, 7:24 PM
Post #36 of 36
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Registered: Nov 4, 2002
Posts: 414
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I used to carry slings over my shoulder but gradually switched to 12’’ slings that I just clip to my harness.
I do take additional one or two shoulder length slings occasionally if needed that I just double up and clip to the harness as well
No trad draws for me
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