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leelanau
Aug 16, 2006, 4:25 PM
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Hello there!
I'm very new to rock climbing, I've been only doing it for two weeks, seven times total, and I've been sticking to bouldering.
To start I do some stretching and then go to the wall to do traversing for marm up before going to the boulders. Last time I was on the wall I was finishing the 10 foot long 45 angle segment when a climber who new I was new saw me and told me to stop. Said I was trying very difficult problems for my experience (that would be none, I guess), but couldn't really say what V was I doing. I wasn't that interested then so I left it there, but now I'm wondering what the hell was I doing... Maybe one of you can guess it.
The segment of traversing I send at least twice every session is 50 feet long, with a segment of 10 feet at 45 degrees. At the end there is the entrance of a cave of about 6 feet so one has to completely hang inverted, then do a pull up to reach another pull up and end on a 60 degree wall to send the last eight feet.
I was wondering why this man told me to stop. Maybe was because I'm a girl and he felt like taking care of me, maybe I wasn't using appropriate technique, but at least I sent that wall. He suggested to stick with easy stuff, like traversing along the vertical part only, but I feel that would be very stupid, because then I wouldn't be doing any progress. After all, although I'm tired and somewhat feel previously unknown muscles, I'm not slowing down or burned out. This just feels right...
Well, maybe I can at least get some warm welcome to this community, if nothing else.
Thanks!
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grampacharlie
Aug 16, 2006, 5:04 PM
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Where were you climbing at?
Maybe this guy had been working the problem for months and could finish it, so he was feeling a little butt-hurt and could bare to watch you sending?!?!
Or maybe he was worried about you injuring your tendons? I deffinately did when I first started.
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sevrdhed
Aug 16, 2006, 5:05 PM
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Sounds like it's about V0- to V9+ish.
Really, it's hard enough to rate a problem after having climbed it. To accurately rate a problem after basic information about the length and angle of the wall is impossible.
For example, take a look at this.
Problem one is 3 moves. Start on a frictiony granite sloper, get your heel up on the same sloper with a good nub for a foot, slap out left for another sloper, stand up on your right foot, get your left foot WAY over on a big ramp, then grab for the arete and top out.
Problem two is several moves. Start matched on a semi incut mini-jug, gaston a small crimp about 2 feet up with your right, hike your right foot up onto a slimy crystal, then drop your right knee, and bump to a 3/4 pad crimp. Bump your left hand up to the crimp, then move your left foot up to a greasy sloping friction smear. Bump your right hand out over the lip to a good knob that's kinda hard to see, then drop your left foot off and backflag, and bump your left hand up to the 3/4 crimp. Now, look over the lip and stab either as far left as possible for a good jug, or aim right for a smaller jug that's easier to reach. Then, mash your knee on the rail to the right to inch yourself up, match on the jug, and top out.
Now, what's the rating of these two climbs?
Steve
P.S. Welcome to the site!
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blitzkrieg_climber13
Aug 16, 2006, 5:08 PM
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i believe problem 1 is v3 and problem 2 is just about v4+
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davidji
Aug 16, 2006, 5:26 PM
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In reply to: Said I was trying very difficult problems for my experience
For the gyms I've seen, they don't rate a section of their wall, but rather specific routes.
Dunno if the guy thought he was preventing you from injury, wanted to talk to a woman, or was a control freak. You gotta exercise judgement with the advice of strangers.
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jordan514d
Aug 16, 2006, 5:39 PM
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that is one of the stupidist questions i have ever heard! I know your new but come on how stupid can you be... I think it is funny that no one has bagged on this user for that idiotic post.... perhaps because she is a girl.....
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climbinginchico
Aug 16, 2006, 7:57 PM
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In reply to: Sounds like it's about V0- to V9+ish. Really, it's hard enough to rate a problem after having climbed it. To accurately rate a problem after basic information about the length and angle of the wall is impossible. For example, take a look at this. Problem one is 3 moves. Start on a frictiony granite sloper, get your heel up on the same sloper with a good nub for a foot, slap out left for another sloper, stand up on your right foot, get your left foot WAY over on a big ramp, then grab for the arete and top out. Problem two is several moves. Start matched on a semi incut mini-jug, gaston a small crimp about 2 feet up with your right, hike your right foot up onto a slimy crystal, then drop your right knee, and bump to a 3/4 pad crimp. Bump your left hand up to the crimp, then move your left foot up to a greasy sloping friction smear. Bump your right hand out over the lip to a good knob that's kinda hard to see, then drop your left foot off and backflag, and bump your left hand up to the 3/4 crimp. Now, look over the lip and stab either as far left as possible for a good jug, or aim right for a smaller jug that's easier to reach. Then, mash your knee on the rail to the right to inch yourself up, match on the jug, and top out. Now, what's the rating of these two climbs? Steve P.S. Welcome to the site!
Both are rated V:boring:
:wink:
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leelanau
Aug 17, 2006, 4:53 AM
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Registered: Aug 9, 2006
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Umh, I could be REALLY stupid if you only gave me a little more time... I mean, I'm even replyig to you :P .
To everyone else, thanks, I was sure enough this couldn't be rated just by this info, but maybe a clue of what happened could arise... And it did. I'm guessing is it had to do with avoiding injury, I'm sure not using my fingers the best way to avoid it and is way more risky to do it wrong when I'm supporting my entire weight. I'll keep challenging myself, as suggested, but I'l try to get easier on my tendons as I'm building strenght.
Believe me, you all helped a lot.
Thanks for the welcome!! :wink:
PS.
*Sevrdhed: :shock: :?: But thanks for the welcome!! :lol:
*Davidj: my info is incompete: is not a section of the wall but a specific route. Thanks for the injury mention, it helped a lot.
*Grampacharlie: I think I've seen him send it, so I'm going for the injury theory. You really helped the most, never thought about injury, I felt safe.
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curtis_g
Aug 17, 2006, 5:48 AM
Post #9 of 34
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Registered: Nov 21, 2005
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bull about the injury, don't take slippery inclined chances with one or two finger pockets...and if you do be ready to let go rather than peel off.
climb what you can, don't climb easy crap just because you haven't spent m months, d days and h hours in the gym.
Really, pockets are you only danger. and don't stuff your fingers into something they won't fall out of when you fall. It's ridiculously hard to hurt your tendons on jugs slopers and crimps...I've only ever hurt things on pockets.
Just don't run away from the V3's because it's your first month at the gym.
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sick_climba
Aug 17, 2006, 5:55 AM
Post #10 of 34
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Registered: Apr 1, 2005
Posts: 508
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In reply to: Hello there! I'm very new to rock climbing, I've been only doing it for two weeks, seven times total, and I've been sticking to bouldering. To start I do some stretching and then go to the wall to do traversing for marm up before going to the boulders. Last time I was on the wall I was finishing the 10 foot long 45 angle segment when a climber who new I was new saw me and told me to stop. Said I was trying very difficult problems for my experience (that would be none, I guess), but couldn't really say what V was I doing. I wasn't that interested then so I left it there, but now I'm wondering what the hell was I doing... Maybe one of you can guess it. The segment of traversing I send at least twice every session is 50 feet long, with a segment of 10 feet at 45 degrees. At the end there is the entrance of a cave of about 6 feet so one has to completely hang inverted, then do a pull up to reach another pull up and end on a 60 degree wall to send the last eight feet. I was wondering why this man told me to stop. Maybe was because I'm a girl and he felt like taking care of me, maybe I wasn't using appropriate technique, but at least I sent that wall. He suggested to stick with easy stuff, like traversing along the vertical part only, but I feel that would be very stupid, because then I wouldn't be doing any progress. After all, although I'm tired and somewhat feel previously unknown muscles, I'm not slowing down or burned out. This just feels right... Well, maybe I can at least get some warm welcome to this community, if nothing else. Thanks! |
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ratmnerd
Aug 17, 2006, 6:17 AM
Post #11 of 34
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Registered: Mar 5, 2006
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OMFG!!1! i like TOTALLY know what you're talking about. i can't believe you can DO that route!!1! it's like, V a million cos i can't do it.
have you done the green route too? i get stuck on that bit between the jugs myself. :lol:
anyway, mocking aside, i think it could be the whole hanging inverted thing that's stressing the guy out. think of it like this: "her head is below her feet, and she's 6 feet off the ground, and if she falls, her head will hit the ground over there, and she can snap her cervical vertebrae. if she DOESN'T die, i could get sued, plus my medical insurance will go sky-high. if she DOES die, i can get sued for even more, and i may even be shut down". of course, that does assume the guy is the owner. he could just be worried about your safety, or know the owner.
get a book for beginners to climbing and work on basic technique for roofs, suck as diagonals, stemming and lockoffs so you don't have to go inverted and end up doing your best to play "snap the neck". :lol:
have fun, go hard, and don't kill yourself.
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cjsimpso
Aug 17, 2006, 6:55 AM
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I don't know anything about this problem, this guy, or you.
But, I do know that if you're new to climbing, you should avoid crimping too much too early, and sure as hell stay away from one and two finger pockets, no matter what. It takes tendon strength much longer to develop than muscular strength, and you don't want to tweak something and have to take weeks or months off. But other than that, climb what you want and don't be afraid to get on stuff you can't do yet.
Oh, and as far as ratings go, ignore everyone who says "ratings don't matter" just as much as you ignore all the grade-dropping spraylords. It should be somewhere in between, and I'm sure you'll find your own happy medium as you go along.
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ajkclay
Aug 17, 2006, 6:57 AM
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In reply to: that is one of the stupidist questions i have ever heard! I know your new but come on how stupid can you be... I think it is funny that no one has bagged on this user for that idiotic post.... perhaps because she is a girl.....
...and this from someone with 41 posts and a name like 514d?
Ah! The innocence and certainty of nOObism
:lol:
Adam
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rainontin
Aug 18, 2006, 6:17 PM
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In reply to: It's ridiculously hard to hurt your tendons on jugs slopers and crimps... |
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rockguide
Aug 18, 2006, 6:44 PM
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basically a rehash of the above
If he saw you making wild moves and barely sticking small holds (small edges or pockets) he may have been trying to help you avoid tendon injuries.
If you were barely hanging on, high above a not-good landing (poorly padded floor or some uneven surfaces) in bad body positions (back presented to the floor or another corner of a wall) he may have been trying to get you to routes with safer/avoidable falls until your landing skills (and hazard awareness) improves.
But we cannot rule out he was protecting his ego or trying to start a conversation emphasizing his own climbing prowess. :twisted:
B
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curtis_g
Aug 18, 2006, 6:46 PM
Post #16 of 34
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In reply to: In reply to: It's ridiculously hard to hurt your tendons on jugs slopers and crimps... not true at all. Crimps are terrible on your tendons.
maybe you think so, and maybe it is true...but I've never hurt my hands on crimps while I have to be VERY careful of straining my hands on pockets.
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trenchdigger
Aug 18, 2006, 6:54 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: It's ridiculously hard to hurt your tendons on jugs slopers and crimps... not true at all. Crimps are terrible on your tendons.
I also know a number of people who have injured wrist tendons/ligaments on sloper problems.
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rainontin
Aug 18, 2006, 6:56 PM
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It is easier to hurt your fingers in pockets, but that does not make it harder to hurt your fingers on crimps. I've been injured on both. Whatever the hold is, you can do damage if you grab it wrong or too hard and so on. Just because you have only hurt yourself on pockets does not mean you can only hurt yourself on pockets.
EDIT: Trenchdigger is right, slopers are hard on your wrists. I guess that proves it: climbing is tough on your body...come to think of it, living is pretty tough on the body as well...
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curtis_g
Aug 18, 2006, 7:02 PM
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In reply to: It is easier to hurt your fingers in pockets, but that does not make it harder to hurt your fingers on crimps. I've been injured on both. Whatever the hold is, you can do damage if you grab it wrong or too hard and so on. Just because you have only hurt yourself on pockets does not mean you can only hurt yourself on pockets.
but it does mean that I believe it is very hard to hurt your hands on crimps...I mean, why would I believe anything else, I've never done it, and haven't seen someone else do it...so I believe it's only easy to hurt your hands on pockets. sure I might be wrong, or maybe I'm perfectly correct if I say its very very hard for ME to hurt MY hands on crimps and that I'VE only ever hurt MYSELF on pockets. mmmk
peace
Curtis
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jrathfon
Aug 18, 2006, 7:32 PM
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everyones tendons are different, my tendons used to hurt incredibly on crimps, i've never hurt on slopers, and if i can get my fat fingers in it, i probably won't hurt the tendons, but don't do what my friend did: lead fall onto a thin hand jam (pinky chocked), and rip your pinky right off its tendons (still attached, but very dislocated).
ouch
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dbrayack
Aug 18, 2006, 7:47 PM
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"B0" would be a safe estimate.
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trenchdigger
Aug 18, 2006, 8:11 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: It is easier to hurt your fingers in pockets, but that does not make it harder to hurt your fingers on crimps. I've been injured on both. Whatever the hold is, you can do damage if you grab it wrong or too hard and so on. Just because you have only hurt yourself on pockets does not mean you can only hurt yourself on pockets. but it does mean that I believe it is very hard to hurt your hands on crimps...I mean, why would I believe anything else, I've never done it, and haven't seen someone else do it...so I believe it's only easy to hurt your hands on pockets. sure I might be wrong, or maybe I'm perfectly correct if I say its very very hard for ME to hurt MY hands on crimps and that I'VE only ever hurt MYSELF on pockets. mmmk peace Curtis
Interesting perpective. Can you qualify that with how long you've been climbing? And where/how hard?
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curtis_g
Aug 19, 2006, 2:32 AM
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5.10+ serriously for about a year
lightly in gym class for about one year beforehand
3times a week for the past 6 months
lifetime fittness gym in schaumburg. fully featured nicros A.R.T. wall
Devil's Lake wisconsin outside, again 5.10+
peace
Curtis
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jrathfon
Aug 19, 2006, 5:36 AM
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does that mean you think you can climb 5.10+, or you can onsight 5.10+? awwww snap!
(troll)
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curtis_g
Aug 19, 2006, 6:11 AM
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In reply to: does that mean you think you can climb 5.10+, or you can onsight 5.10+? awwww snap! (troll)
haha, I enjoy the troll, no I didn't get to 400+ posts without reading many many pages about when you can call yourself a 5.x climber. but to willingly bite the hook line and sinker, no, my best onsight is 10a/b.
peace
Curtis
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