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dan2see
Nov 28, 2006, 9:35 PM
Post #26 of 30
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Registered: Mar 29, 2006
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percious wrote: Instead of a prussik, consider using an autoblock. It's much simpler to tie, which makes faster transitions on multi-pitch repels. Also, it's less likely to be tied incorrectly, or get twisted while descending. -percious
I don't know what an "autoblock" is. ! !! !!!
BTW Chris, I checked out your website, I think your pix are cool.
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dan2see
Apr 24, 2007, 2:37 PM
Post #27 of 30
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dynoho wrote: You mentioned that you might be building an enhanced wall that would allow you to place pro. Here is a shot of the wall at my gym. I hope it gives you some ideas. [img]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/6/285006-largest_80382.jpg[/img] http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/6/285006-largest_80382.jpg Sorry, I don't know how to get the inline photos to work yet.
Spring update to dynoho's suggestion:
I can simulate a crack by attaching a block of wood to my studs, using bolts. But it just don't act like rock. The wood placement position is very unforgiving, and when I weight it, the mounting flexes.
So I simply girth-hitch short slings to the studs. This way, it is easy to simulate placement scenarios.
The value of this "practice wall" is to get familiar with knots and rigs that might be useful on the rocks. Then, when I'm out there, I'll have a repertoire of skills, available when I need them. So although dynoho's suggestion didn't work, it was very valuable. Thanks!
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dan2see
Apr 24, 2007, 2:51 PM
Post #28 of 30
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[quote "krusher4"]seems a little silly but I bet this would help a lot of new climbers.[/quote]
It worked. During the winter, I worked out the sequences for leading sport routes.
The details vary, depending on the anchor bolt at the top of each route. Some anchors have chains, some rings, some don't. Also if I'm setting a top-rope for my buddies, or coming down right away.
So this Spring, I did some sport leads. My belayer said I looked competent. Well at least I used the right rig, and my safety was always correct.
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dan2see
Apr 24, 2007, 3:09 PM
Post #29 of 30
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norushnomore wrote: Dan, anchors is so 2005, the new trend is rappelling. You got to start practicing that instead.
When I was climbing at Rattlesnake, we always rappelled on an 8, nothing else, and certainly not on a tube or plate.
Here in the Rockies, everybody rappells on an ATC, never an 8 (because it twists your rope).
So I tried the ATC, and although my basement is awfully tame, the action is there. Plus I tried the third-hand safety, placed above the device, or below (it makes a difference).
Also I refreshed my skill using the body belay (don't try this in shorts!). Symmetric body-belay where each strand of rope goes around the other leg is a lot more comfortable.
No climber should ever need the body belay, but around here, there are a lot of scramble routes where you might like some help getting down.
I did not perfect the air-rappel, so I'm open to suggestions.
All this skill might be a waste of time, because the folks I know are so very reluctant to descend on rappel -- they'll always look for a walk-off. But I think it's an essential skill, even if never used.
(This post was edited by dan2see on Apr 24, 2007, 3:11 PM)
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dan2see
Apr 24, 2007, 4:17 PM
Post #30 of 30
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When I initiated this "anchor" wall, I needed to learn how to build anchors, and that worked well.
On traditional gear routes, you must also manage the teamwork. So I worked out the leader's tasks at the belay station.
My climbing partner "Teddy" was a great help in "swing leads". We worked out the sequence:
- lead to the belay stance
- build a suitable anchor
- belay Teddy to the stance
- Teddy continues to lead up (he always places a Jesus nut)
- Teddy reaches his stance
- I clean the anchor, and he belays me up.
It's only a simulation, but it makes sense. I am satisfied with the "knots" in my repertoire, now I have "rigs" as well.
Also I can try silly things, like Garda, Bachman, and third hand. Even sillier things, like the Three-Point Equallette.
It's only a simulation, but it identifies my needs for gear. For example, I want to buy a few Positrons before my next outing (which I hope will be this week-end). But I am still unsure about static cord.
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