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what do YOU think about while setting a route?
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Partner thespider


Nov 29, 2006, 8:15 PM
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Re: [ltj16hb] what do YOU think about while setting a route? [In reply to]
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I think about my weaknesses and what I want to work on. I also think about whats fun for me and try to set holds in places that will be challenging, but repeatable. I also climb while doing it so I can see where I want more holds or less holds.


powerhousebum


Dec 16, 2006, 8:59 AM
Post #27 of 34 (1051 views)
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Re: [thespider] what do YOU think about while setting a route? [In reply to]
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well it goes something like this:
-I really wish the fucking volunteer setters would stop using the kickass soill holds
-lets see if i can set a 5.9 with ten year old crimps
-why am I the only one working
-forgot the wrenches
-got the wrong wrench
-why do I always set in sandals
-Shit the music stopped.....help....somebody
-i hope i don't drop this bolt or my wrenches
-shit
-I swear to god if one more customer walks in while i'm halfway screwing in a hold....
-shit
-I wonder if that taco shop is till open
-thank god your here adam, could you toss me up that wrench
-and that tape
-and turn the music back on
-and find me a killer slopey pinch
-its ok if I end this nowhere near a quickdraw because I ran out of holds right?
-adam....nvm the music came back on
-watch out for that.....hold
-wow I can totally see down that girls top from up here
-which doesn't really matter b/c the way this harness is scrunching my balls, I'm never having kids
-god I have the worst wedgie


and so on and so forth...add random cursing everytime I have the perfect move and the tnut is missing in that vital spot.


(This post was edited by powerhousebum on Dec 16, 2006, 9:02 AM)


ninja_climber


Dec 16, 2006, 11:47 AM
Post #28 of 34 (1042 views)
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Re: [cam] what do YOU think about while setting a route? [In reply to]
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[quote "cam"]Usually my thoughts run through the following but no necessarily in this order...

where are the holds going to go?
what if my anchor blew right NOW.
my legs are numb.
how long have I been up here?
what time is it?
godamn its getting late.
gotta upload the site revisions tomorrow.
I hope that Mars Volta CD isn't in the changer.
I'll have to go down and smash it, if its in the changer.
I should eat something.
I'll have to go down for that.
fuck I hate my bosses boss
if Mars Volta starts playing I'll go down, grab a bite and a hammer.
where are the holds going to go?
hope I don't drop the t-wrench
man its creepy in here at 3am.
I hope that Sinatra CD is in the changer, he's bad-ass.
I think that (female climber) would be better off with me and not him.
This isn't hard enough, Bigboy's going to cruise it.
Fuck this harness is uncomfortable, WHY do I always bring THIS one?
"Waiting for Rockclimbing.com"
Too bad Dan couldn't set tonight, then if my anchor blew right... NOW there'd be someone here to help me and it wouldn't be so creepy in here.
man her BF seems like such a dick, i'd never treat her like tha-FUCKING MARS VOLTA GOD DAMNIT!
descend descend descend
bite bite, yum yum
smash smash smash
do dooo, do do doooooo, "that's why the ladyyyyyy is a tramp", do dooo, do do doooooo
Sinatra's such a cool motherfucker
bite bite, yum yum, gulp
ascend ascend ascend
what if my anchor blew right....NOW
there's not enough feet on this route
how come my routes always seem to be 5.10's?
crap I forgot to pay the phone bill.
does the fact that I love Starbucks make me one of those yuppie scumbags?
if only Family Guy's wife was real...and Betty Rubble...
if I was a bird, I wouldn't care if my anchor blew right.......NOW.
why is it that i'm so cool and no one seems to notice?
awww, fuckin' t-wrench!
ooo, and Velma! I bet she'd be freakkkkkkkaaaayyyyy.
so I guess "Failed Sending Email" is programmer speak for "Your Message Was Successfully Posted".
my legs are numb again.


that's pretty much it I think, just pick a random spot and loop it from there.[/quote]

I SOO WANT TO GIVE YOU TROPHY....but um...hehe..... <.<

Its there in spirit...atleast I have a pirate smiley [pirate][pirate]


pro_alien


Dec 17, 2006, 9:20 PM
Post #29 of 34 (1015 views)
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Posts: 256

Re: [ninja_climber] what do YOU think about while setting a route? [In reply to]
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Who put that "easy listening" CD in ? I feel like the blues brothers in the elevator...

Pascal


jaybro


Dec 17, 2006, 10:51 PM
Post #30 of 34 (999 views)
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Posts: 441

Re: [pro_alien] what do YOU think about while setting a route? [In reply to]
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You guys are too funny! There may be hope for this site, yet.


musicman1586


Dec 17, 2006, 10:58 PM
Post #31 of 34 (994 views)
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Posts: 488

Re: [jaybro] what do YOU think about while setting a route? [In reply to]
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Typically I set routes based off moves/sequences I have done or have seen done outside. Usually before I set I'll go boulder somewhere or watch some climbing videos to get ideas in my head of really good and aesthetic moves. It's more about the moves then the holds to me so my thought pattern is kinda like "okay, so I want this sequence to go something like: deadpoint, hand-foot match, gaston, step-through" instead of "sloper, pinch, crimp, crimp"
Edit to add: the holds are important though, but I like to think about hard technical moves, and then add in bad holds, I hate routes that are just long powerful moves between slopers or things like that, I like very techical, "finesse" routes, so I think about hard moves first, and then add bad holds into the equation if that's my aim.


(This post was edited by musicman1586 on Dec 17, 2006, 11:01 PM)


ltj16hb


Dec 22, 2006, 5:05 PM
Post #32 of 34 (944 views)
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Re:what do YOU think about while setting a route? [In reply to]
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yo, thanks to all of you responding, even the good stream of conscious stories (Cedric Bixler-Zavala, singer of mars volta has been quoted in an interview "had i never heard a band like BLACK FLAG id just want to play salsa music for the rest of my life." after a person makes that kind of statement they can create any type of music in my opinion... also if you hate marsvolta listen to At The Drive-In... you might appreciate his vocal talent a bit more)

disclaimer: im not a mars volta fan, i just enjoy good music, sinatra is THE man


please anyone else want to add their 2 cents about core setting keep this 'dead thread' going!!!!


while setting the climb will 'show me' the sequence... i start out by choosing 20-25 holds (depending on the walls size) that all seem to flow with a similar feeling from one to the other.... so no "crimp, crimp, crimp, jug"

while i am choosing the holds i have a difficulty in mind for the completed route, but i let the holds determine the finished rating. unless i need one specific route in a certain area of the gym.

since i have been given the opportunity to set i have been studying any and every other gym i visit outside my own. you learn and soak up sequences and ideas to use on your own.... i have not only found this to be the most fun, but it has helped me think of the numbers ALOT easier when i need to grade my own routes (this is the one thing i hate about setting because i never get it right)


ebonezercabbage


Dec 22, 2006, 5:23 PM
Post #33 of 34 (937 views)
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Registered: Apr 10, 2004
Posts: 151

Re: [ninja_climber] what do YOU think about while setting a route? [In reply to]
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ninja_climber wrote:
[quote "cam"]
man her BF seems like such a dick, i'd never treat her like tha-FUCKING MARS VOLTA GOD DAMNIT!
descend descend descend
bite bite, yum yum
smash smash smash
do dooo, do do doooooo, "that's why the ladyyyyyy is a tramp", do dooo, do do doooooo
Sinatra's such a cool motherfucker
[pirate][pirate]

This made me laugh so damn hard i spit my lunch at the monitor. My coworkers were staring at me and giving me wierd looks. Thanks guys.


When i set routes i just try to think: What do i know i cant do? Lets do that.


nfowler50


Nov 17, 2008, 11:35 AM
Post #34 of 34 (853 views)
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Registered: Apr 26, 2008
Posts: 22

Re: [ninja_climber] and [ebonezercabbage] what do YOU think about while setting a route? [In reply to]
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hahahahaha, I'm glad you pointed out that selection man! I had just skimmed through and didn't see why he had descended, hahahahaha

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