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Utah Ice Conditions
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stymingersfink


Feb 13, 2007, 1:38 AM
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Re: [natec] Joe's Valley 2/10/07 [In reply to]
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the rain we received on sunday was not a good thing.

My partner drove down provo canyon that afternoon for an appointment in town, reported that the place is toast.

Probably game over, unless it gets cold for a real long time, and quick like.

Fucking global warming!


natec


Feb 13, 2007, 4:06 PM
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Re: [stymingersfink] Joe's Valley 2/10/07 [In reply to]
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stymingersfink wrote:
Fucking global warming!

Amen to that bro.

Fuckin global warming.


jahsh


Feb 13, 2007, 5:11 PM
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Re: [natec] Joe's Valley 2/10/07 [In reply to]
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maybe ole gov. mikey leavitt from the epa could step in and declare war on pollution...they could drop bombs and send troops, create a frenzy of media histeria and make a bad situation even worse...wait isnt that what they did.

letting random fuctards run the world could result in injury or even worse.

sorry just venting, but last week in the valleys (slc&utah) were the worst i had ever seen...reminded me of the controlled burns in YNP (couldnt see the walls from the valley floor, less than a mile away)

climbed one last 'cicle friday in twelve mile canyons bear fork...it fell down sunday...what about last chance falls in logan?

but what does some random fuctard know


builttospill


Feb 16, 2007, 1:45 AM
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Re: [jumar] Utah Ice Conditions [In reply to]
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I'm assuming that GWI is toast, but I want to confirm without driving all the way up there.

Is it climbable (even if not protectable)? Thanks.


clipinmt


Feb 19, 2007, 5:54 PM
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Re: [builttospill] Utah Ice Conditions [In reply to]
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sunday the GWI was still up there, it don't look to bad. Anybody been down to maple lately? looks like temps could be favorable. Warm days cold nights.


bsmoot


Feb 20, 2007, 4:37 AM
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Re: [clipinmt] Utah Ice Conditions [In reply to]
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Don't know about Maple, but when I drove by on Friday, it looked like ACT was still touching down.


wyjames


Feb 21, 2007, 8:39 PM
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Re: [clipinmt] Utah Ice Conditions [In reply to]
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clipinmt wrote:
sunday the GWI was still up there, it don't look to bad. Anybody been down to maple lately? looks like temps could be favorable. Warm days cold nights.

Thanks for the updates everyone, we are coming to SLC this weekend and are hoping to find Ice -anything from WI4+ to easy TRs just want to be able to climb a bit.

Anybody know if GWI is still in? protectable? anywhere else like Ogden or Logan in?

Where would the closest ice be? Tetons? South fork? Lake Louise?

Gracias, James


stymingersfink


Feb 22, 2007, 11:25 PM
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Re: [wyjames] Utah Ice Conditions [In reply to]
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sounds like santaquin might still have a few lines in.

With the weather expected this weekend, I would be very careful about climbing in or near any kind of terrain traps. There have been 4+ avalanche fatalities in the past week, the latest one last night.


stymingersfink


Feb 26, 2007, 4:38 AM
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Re: [stymingersfink] Utah Ice Conditions [In reply to]
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drove down to Maple today with MT, intent on checking the lines DK reported in the pipedream/margarita caves area. Met in provo canyon to check the state of the ice there... white nightmare was looking pretty good, BVR was doable, stairway was looking like early-season conditions on P1-3, while P's 4&5 were still up from earlier in the season. Perhaps it snowed on the upper pitches instead of the rain on the lower stuff... don't know. MT said the Fang was rebuilding, but I didn't get eyes on it.

The road into maple has seen some traffic, there was only a couple of inches of packed snow on the road. Drove up to the forks, which was nice, as that cut some time off the hike.

Hiked up to Frankenchrist to check it out first... still in a rebuilding state, not too well bonded to the rock and with the sounds of water moving behind it. The shit looked dangerously thin, so we continued up to the pipedream.

The Ice 800 dagger was dripping wet... someone tried to goad me into mixing it up to the dagger itself, I wasn't having any of it, so we hiked around to the Margarita to find a quite remarkable piece of ice.

Perhaps the tube DK had reported before, but it was now a half-moon shape probably 8-10" thick at the base, sporting a 2-3" fracture about 4' up from ground level with no real sign of healing. The inside of the thing was dripping pretty well, the snow was falling about 1/2" per hour.

Left side was chandeliered as hell, making the bolt line impossible to reach, but the main face was looking pretty solid so that's what we climbed. The upper section was pretty solid, the bolts clippable, the top-out snow-covered terror. We both led the thing, then TR'd it a couple of times before leaving.

On the drive out we stopped and followed some boot tracks into the Box to check the ice. Cobble-cruncher was 4+ THIN at the top(maybe WI6 if someone were actually foolish enough to climb it in such conditions), Tied Off Stubbies was sporting some ice in forming state (still wouldn't even consider getting on it yet), Maple Moon had a few small icicles clinging to the rock, Maple Syrup had part of the upper column still remaining though the rest was trying to rebuild.

The top of climb 26(?) from JS's guide was visible above the lower falls, but without our gear with us we were stopped at the bottom of the 30' of WI2 in the bottom of the drainage.

All in all, I think we climbed on the only ice in the canyon still in climbing shape. Plenty of snow down there, just need some cold weather to get things growing again.


natec


Feb 26, 2007, 5:09 AM
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Re: [stymingersfink] Utah Ice Conditions [In reply to]
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Thanks for the updates. Looks like Lee Vining for me next week instead of Utah. At least it's starting to cool down a little.


triassic


Feb 26, 2007, 5:19 AM
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Re: [natec] Utah Ice Conditions [In reply to]
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Nice job Stymingersfink!!
It had to be very exciting with the conditions lately! The half circle bottom was about 4 inches thick when I did it , but there was only a horizontal crack without the 3 inches of seperation. Your blood had to be racing a little on that thing!
Good job!!
DK.


stymingersfink


Feb 26, 2007, 11:25 PM
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Re: [triassic] Utah Ice Conditions [In reply to]
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Oh yeah, Forgot to mention we put some glasses on santaquin canyon during the drive down... it appeared that ACT and Candlestick were still hanging out, but no guarantees on how well they are bonded to the rock. Anything else up that way was not viewable from the highway, so their conditions are anyone's guess.


00bg


Mar 2, 2007, 5:26 PM
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Re: [stymingersfink] Utah Ice Conditions [In reply to]
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sweet photo-bucket of the Z-cicle in Zion.

http://www.door5.com/...20Zicicle/index.html


clipinmt


Mar 8, 2007, 12:09 AM
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Re: [00bg] Utah Ice Conditions [In reply to]
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man that is some sweet looking ice where did you find that? any beta?


jumar


Mar 9, 2007, 3:04 PM
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Re: [clipinmt] Utah Ice Conditions [In reply to]
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That IS sweet! I wanna go!


00bg


Mar 13, 2007, 9:24 PM
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Re: [clipinmt] Utah Ice Conditions [In reply to]
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unfortunately, i was not present to send that juicy morsel. however, i was turned onto the photo-bucket after talking with one of the luck fellas.

as the (his) story goes, the intention was to engage in some wintertime canyoneering in zion, but having discovered ice at the start of a particular route, he hiked back to the car, drove back to slc, recruited a compitent ice climber, drove back down early in the morn, and sent.

he was vague (intentionally?) about its location. however, it became obvious when viewing the photos that the ice poured over the start to Englestead Hollow.


clipinmt


Mar 14, 2007, 6:58 PM
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Re: [00bg] Utah Ice Conditions [In reply to]
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probably a pretty little waterfall by now. hummm, think of the possibilities. thanks

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