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tradrenn
Dec 30, 2006, 9:49 PM
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Is there any ?
What would be the easiest BW without aid ?
Thanks
P.S. Please post the name and rating.
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nedsurf
Dec 30, 2006, 9:57 PM
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dunno what a big wall is for you. I have my eye on Cannon cliff and laurel knob and I think they are pretty big walls.
Moby Grape 5.8, 8 pitches.
Laurel knob has some moderate stuff.
I want to get on some longer climbs this summer hopefully a couple with required bivy. I was looking at the supertaco books and it seems the yosemite stuff has climbs with moderate pitches mixed with aid (for my level)
I'll free climb what I can and french free or aid what hangs me up.
(This post was edited by nedsurf on Dec 30, 2006, 10:13 PM)
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ihategrigris
Dec 30, 2006, 10:07 PM
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tradrenn wrote: Is there any ? What would be the easiest BW without aid ? Thanks P.S. Please post the name and rating.
Why not just get into aid? Lots and lots and lots of aid to be had that multiday :). Saw your sig by the way, i'm planning to leave my job in December 2007 and hit the road until September starting in EPC (big wall sport I guess). Maybe we should talk about joining forces (a polish/canadian dirtbag team if you will).
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tradrenn
Dec 30, 2006, 10:11 PM
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Something more then 10 pitches
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tradrenn
Dec 30, 2006, 10:19 PM
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Brzmi niezle, wysle Ci PMa.
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stymingersfink
Dec 31, 2006, 5:19 AM
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tradrenn wrote: Is there any ? What would be the easiest BW without aid ? Thanks P.S. Please post the name and rating.
um.. free zodiac. 5.13(something) IIRC
(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Dec 31, 2006, 9:22 AM)
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ihategrigris
Dec 31, 2006, 6:36 AM
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Heres a few examples of the top of my head:
Wapiti Mainline (5.11a or 5.10b A0 - run out sport) - 13 Pitchs, 500m - Wapiti Valley, Vancouver Island BC.
Sysyphus Summits (5.10d sport) 20+ pitches 500m - Ha Ling Peak, Canmore AB.
NE Ridge of Ha Ling (5.6 trad) 11 pitches, 475 m - Ha Ling Peak, Canmore AB.
Ultra-Brewers (5.9 trad) 20+ pitches 700+ m - Castle Mountain, Banff AB.
Directisima (5.8+ trad) 11 pitches 475 m - Yamnuska, Exshaw AB.
The Ultimate Linkup (5.9+ trad) 23 pitches ~600m - The Chief, Squamish BC.
As you can plainly see, living in Alberta rocks.
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charlet_poser
Dec 31, 2006, 8:23 AM
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Or you can come down here to WA state:
Infinite Bliss- 5.10b 23 pitches, BOLTED!!
Booyah.
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vegastradguy
Dec 31, 2006, 3:13 PM
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tradrenn wrote: Something more then 10 pitches
Any grade IV in Red Rock.
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caughtinside
Jan 1, 2007, 1:59 AM
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renn,
the places you are looking for are called 'yosemite' and 'red rocks.'
Come on out!
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michaelmcguinn
Jan 1, 2007, 2:13 AM
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Red Rocks
Yosemite
Potrero Chico
Lots of free climbing for anyone that wants to get a route that is 1000 feet of more. And Moderate free climbing too.
MM
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tallnik
Jan 1, 2007, 2:11 PM
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I'll second Potrero, although Wojtek, you won't like very much! It's clipping bolts! Leave the gear at home.
600+ routes though, lot's of rock.
Nik
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tradrenn
Jan 1, 2007, 3:54 PM
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caughtinside wrote: the places you are looking for are called 'yosemite' and 'red rocks.' Come on out!
I will see you in 08. See sig. When will we see you at the east coast ? (Gunks)
tallnik wrote: I'll second Potrero, although Wojtek, you won't like very much! It's clipping bolts! Leave the gear at home.600+ routes though, lot's of rock.
I'm planning a trip to EPC in Feb. I'm a bit different, I like SC this days.
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thelockdude
Jan 1, 2007, 4:54 PM
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I'll be watching this thread cause I'm going to do my first big wall in the fall of 07. I posted my own thread in the "Aid" forum, but route suggestions that don't require aid would be cool too.
For me these are essential elements: easy climbing (5.8 or 9?), optional bivy (one night), east coast.
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areyoumydude
Jan 2, 2007, 4:03 AM
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I've always been a fan of The Black. Scienic Cruise 10+, Comedy Relief 10a, Journey Home 10a, to name a few.
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tradrenn
Jan 2, 2007, 10:04 PM
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areyoumydude wrote: I've always been a fan of The Black. Scienic Cruise 10+, Comedy Relief 10a, Journey Home 10a, to name a few.
All of them in Cali ?
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tallnik
Jan 2, 2007, 10:11 PM
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Big wall, east coast...
Moby grape 5.8, Cannon Cliff, NH.
Aid
Mordor wall, 5 pitches, A2, great optional bivy.
Nik
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boymeetsrock
Jan 2, 2007, 10:16 PM
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"the Black"is actually the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, in Collorado.
It scares me very much, but is reported to have some greeat climbing...
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gunksgoer
Jan 2, 2007, 11:06 PM
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Maybe check out fairview dome, the regular route is 5.9 with most of it in the 5.6-5.8 range. 13 pitches. Grade IV, possible bivy part way up.
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potreroed
Jan 2, 2007, 11:36 PM
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El Potrero Chico, 'nuff said. Climbing big walls with a dozen draws and a single rope is a beautiful thing!!
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flamer
Jan 3, 2007, 11:23 PM
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tradrenn wrote: areyoumydude wrote: I've always been a fan of The Black. Scienic Cruise 10+, Comedy Relief 10a, Journey Home 10a, to name a few. All of them in Cali ?
The black is a sweet place...someone(bobd??) descibed it best as "the blue collar yosemite". Some BIG stuff there that is free at a "moderate" grade. But keep in mind it's a very different experience.
There are a few other routes/ areas in colorado that fit what you are looking for.....some stuff in the south platte(big rock candy mountain)....a few routes in RMNP.
Seems to me that most routes considered "Big walls"
would require an average party to bivy?
josh
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guanoboy
Jan 3, 2007, 11:30 PM
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DNB on middle cathedral - Yo, 10b 17p
reg NW on half dome requires only 2 bolt ladders 17-25p
Steck salathe, yo - 10b 15?p
Epinephrine, vegas - 5.9, 17?p
vmc direct direct on cannon, nh 10b for each of 8p
there are a lot out there
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tradrenn
Jan 4, 2007, 2:20 AM
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Good staff people, keep em coming.
Thank you.
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crotch
Jan 4, 2007, 2:28 AM
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What's a Big Wall?
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flamer
Jan 4, 2007, 4:45 PM
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guanoboy wrote: reg NW on half dome requires only 2 bolt ladders 17-25p
Only IF you're climbing 5.12+ trad.....
josh
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stickyfingerz
Jan 4, 2007, 4:48 PM
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I'm surprised nobody's mentioned the ultimate newbie-epic big climb: Royal Arches. 16 pitches, 5.7 A0, go get it.
PS - Link it up with the South Face of North Dome for 24 pitches at 5.8 A0!!! 
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yetanotherdave
Jan 4, 2007, 6:04 PM
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There are a few 20+ pitch route options on the Chief in squamish, too. The Ultimate Linkup, for example, is 26 pitches of mostly 5.9, with either one 5.10 pitch, one 5.9+/A0, or one 5.11b pitch (variations on the two possible finishes).
Don't think it qualifies as a big wall, tho, I think it's like grade III.
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graniteboy
Jan 4, 2007, 6:57 PM
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Here's a list of some good free "bigwalls" in california. Although alot of folks wouldn't consider alot of em (like astroman, frinstance) a wall, because most folks do most of these in a day nowadays.
North Butt middle cathedral (10a/b, V )
DNB middle cathedral (10b, V some stiff runouts)
Steck Salathe (5.9, V plenty of wide stuff)
Royal arches to Crest Jewel north dome(5.6 and 10a) IV+
Astroman. 11c, V . Stout. Eat yer wheaties. But not too many, cause you gotta fit into that damned harding slot.
Half dome regular. (11a, A1, V) And no, you don't hafta climb12+ trad to do this with minmal aid. If you can lead 11a, or even 10c, you can do it with just a little aid...a couple bolt ladders on the first half and a couple sections of A1 in the zig zags.
Conness southwest face. 10b V (offwidth)
Red dihedral, Incredible hulk (10b, V)
Dark star, Temple crag (10c, V)
West face of the captain...11b V.
Keeler needle, 10c V(scrappy offwidth flare at 13,000) huff puff.
Palisades full traverse (5.9, VI, mostly class 4)
Direct south face Lone Pine Peak (5.8 if U can routefind, 5.9 A0 otherwise). Loose rock and ants.
There. That should keep you busy for a weekend or 2. Lemme know when you've finished these and I'll give you another to do list. There's plenty to climb in the golden state.
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bandycoot
Jan 4, 2007, 7:25 PM
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Astroman 5.11c
Rainbow Wall 5.12
Both are "short" big walls that have gone free. I've done both in a day, Rainbow Wall I haven't freed (yet).
For long easy non-bigwall routes, there is Dark Star 5.10b and Resolution Arete 5.10c with 6' of aid on a 5.11+ roof.
For all around wildness, there is always Galactic Hitchhiker 5.11b/c?
Speaking of which, Flamer do you want to do Galactic Hitchiker? I've been looking for a good fast partner for that one (tallest free climb in the lower 48?) no one I know good enough to do it wants to!
Josh
How hard do you climb? That's rather essential for recommendations of things you can free........
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flamer
Jan 4, 2007, 11:42 PM
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graniteboy wrote: Half dome regular. (11a, A1, V) And no, you don't hafta climb12+ trad to do this with minmal aid. If you can lead 11a, or even 10c, you can do it with just a little aid...a couple bolt ladders on the first half and a couple sections of A1 in the zig zags.
....ah but there is the rub...you don't have to climb 5.12+ to do it(believe me I know)...however It's not "just a couple of bolt ladder's" either.
josh
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flamer
Jan 4, 2007, 11:46 PM
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bandycoot wrote: For long easy non-bigwall routes, there is Dark Star 5.10b and Resolution Arete 5.10c with 6' of aid on a 5.11+ roof. Speaking of which, Flamer do you want to do Galactic Hitchiker? I've been looking for a good fast partner for that one (tallest free climb in the lower 48?) no one I know good enough to do it wants to!
i was going to suggest resolution as well....the 'aid' is super cruiser...2 moves on .75 camalots and done...no aiders needed.
Dude! I'd be up for an adventure like that!! Unfortunately I'm not sure I'll makle it to the valley this year. BUT!! I'll be in Vegas a lot in April- Rainbow wall free? I'm hoping to try the big link up again and some time free climbing on the OG would be good for speed!
josh
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graniteboy
Jan 5, 2007, 12:18 AM
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Hmmmm...
In reply to: ah but there is the rub...you don't have to climb 5.12+ to do it(believe me I know)...however It's not "just a couple of bolt ladder's" either.
Now Josh, maybe you can refresh my ancient memory....I've only done the regular route on half dome thrice...and the last time I did it was in 1995 or so..... but what i recall is this: there's a short bolt "ladder" (4 bolts or so ) on pitch 4, with two moves of 11a to get to it. after that, everything is 5.9 and down till you get to "the" bolt ladder just B4 robbins traverse. after that, to do it free, at less than 5.11, you gotta do that ugly 10a offwidth above the 12th pitch, or the shortish A1 just to it's left. Then it's all easy free (5.9 & down) till you get to the zigzags...where you can do the middle part free at 10c, and do some free moves here and there on the upper pitch. OH damn, I forgot the thin seam after the thank god ledge traverse......20 feet of aid added for that. MY BAD.......
But Really, now, Josh...we hafta admit that the average 5.10 joe climber kid can do the dome with about 250 ft of actual aid...all of it fast and easy. I stand by my suggestion that this guy should take a run up it...it's mostly fast, easy climbing, and a good intro to free-walling.
CR
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devils_advocate
Jan 5, 2007, 12:43 AM
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flamer wrote: i was going to suggest resolution as well....the 'aid' is super cruiser...2 moves on .75 camalots and done...no aiders needed.
Forgive my lack of aid knowledge - but this is the Trad forum so I'm going to ask. If you can fit a .75 into that crack why does it need to be aided?
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flamer
Jan 5, 2007, 12:44 AM
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graniteboy wrote: Hmmmm... In reply to: ah but there is the rub...you don't have to climb 5.12+ to do it(believe me I know)...however It's not "just a couple of bolt ladder's" either. Now Josh, maybe you can refresh my ancient memory....I've only done the regular route on half dome thrice...and the last time I did it was in 1995 or so..... but what i recall is this: there's a short bolt "ladder" (4 bolts or so ) on pitch 4, with two moves of 11a to get to it. after that, everything is 5.9 and down till you get to "the" bolt ladder just B4 robbins traverse. after that, to do it free, at less than 5.11, you gotta do that ugly 10a offwidth above the 12th pitch, or the shortish A1 just to it's left. Then it's all easy free (5.9 & down) till you get to the zigzags...where you can do the middle part free at 10c, and do some free moves here and there on the upper pitch. OH damn, I forgot the thin seam after the thank god ledge traverse......20 feet of aid added for that. MY BAD....... But Really, now, Josh...we hafta admit that the average 5.10 joe climber kid can do the dome with about 250 ft of actual aid...all of it fast and easy. I stand by my suggestion that this guy should take a run up it...it's mostly fast, easy climbing, and a good intro to free-walling. CR
I've only done it once so i guess that makes you the vet. But I agree wholeheartedly with your description.
...and I will stand by my point(which you made for me) That there is more than just "a couple of bolt ladders". Now for people who've done the route 3 times and undoubtly other walls with or without aid it's NBD.....and I agree that it's no big deal. But if you've ZERO aid or wall experience it's going to be alittle more of a pain.
SO! I would also suggest Doing the RR to the original poster...however I would not miss lead him by saying that it's nothing more than 'a couple of bolt ladders" no matter how "little more" or easy it is.
...and I'd also thank you from anyone wanting to do the route for giving very exact beta!
josh
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flamer
Jan 5, 2007, 12:56 AM
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devils_advocate wrote: flamer wrote: i was going to suggest resolution as well....the 'aid' is super cruiser...2 moves on .75 camalots and done...no aiders needed. Forgive my lack of aid knowledge - but this is the Trad forum so I'm going to ask. If you can fit a .75 into that crack why does it need to be aided?
...AH HA! a good question!
The answer is...The crack is in a 6-8 ft roof and traverse's with poor feet. It has been freed at around 5.11+ and is only a few moves long. This section is *about* 1/2 way up a very long route with a big approach and descent. When i got to it I looked at it and said" Hmmm i think i can free that", "But I'm just going to yard through a couple moves and keep moving". Which is what most folks do there. Including the first ascenionist's.....one of whom went back a number of years later and freed it.
It's one of those things you do *sometimes* on big routes to move quick. We did the route in under 6hrs. CTC in 10HR20M. Super fun day! Highly recomended!
josh
(This post was edited by flamer on Jan 5, 2007, 6:49 AM)
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tradrenn
Jan 5, 2007, 3:44 AM
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bandycoot wrote: How hard do you climb? That's rather essential for recommendations of things you can free
5.9 ( I like to think ) I started some 10a at the end of 2006 season.
I'm not looking for anything harder than 10 c or d.
I'm only 32 so I have few more years to get there.
Thanks again ( for helping me in this research )
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atg200
Jan 5, 2007, 11:39 PM
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i can't think of any long route 5.10 and under with no aid that i would consider to be a big wall - i just think of them as long easy free routes. a huge part of being a big wall is being steep and sustained - you just don't get that gut churning exposure that a big wall entails on purely 5.9 terrain. i've done 5 pitch desert towers that feel much more like a wall than 20 pitch alpine ridge routes.
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fukencanadian
Jan 6, 2007, 4:24 PM
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Hey Wojtek, sounds like you had a pretty good year of climbing this past season.....one thing to keep in mind, some of these guys don't realize the grading in Yosemite is quite a bit harder than what we're used to....If you think the gunks has stiff grading, that's nothing!
I was really surprised at how much harder some of the free grades were from what I'm used to...now part of that is simply because it's a much different type of climbing (mostly crack), which we have almost none of here
Just something to keep in mind when you're looking at the grades
I find that Red Rocks is closer to what we're used to.
cheers
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brutusofwyde
Jan 8, 2007, 6:40 PM
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crotch wrote: What's a Big Wall?
A wall?
A big one?
Touchstone? Spaceshot? Prodigal Son?
Hairline?
Muir Wall?
Tempest?
Book of Shadows?
For me, something where I need to bivy. Something where I need to use aid.
Brutus
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