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downshift
Nov 11, 2001, 10:59 PM
Post #26 of 34
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Registered: Aug 1, 2001
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Hate to bring this up again, but went out bouldering with c_plante at Sunset this afternoon and someone has made a mess of the walls with chalk. What the hell can we do to get people to chalk their hands instead of heavily chalking the holds. The holds that were pre-chalked weren't even difficult holds that need that much chalk or any at all. Plus whoever did it left tones of loose chalk all over the ground. Whoever did this their Mom would be quite disappointed in them.
Sorry, I'm done venting now.
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scotia
Nov 12, 2001, 12:02 AM
Post #27 of 34
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Registered: Nov 6, 2001
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I think chalk is ok as long as you don't use excessive amounts of it and clean up after yourself and others. I always carry a toothbrush with me on my climbs.
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darkside
Nov 12, 2001, 4:21 AM
Post #28 of 34
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Registered: Sep 15, 2001
Posts: 1687
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How about drying your hands on a towel
Chalk in the Niagara Glen is one of the problems the Parks Commission is concerned about although fortunately for climbers they are more concerned about the vandalism and littering, yes the broken beer bottles too. In my conversations with the head botanist a greater emphasise was placed on where climbers step. Watch the plants and wildflowers guys.
If anyone is concerned about the chalk situation at the Glen, let me know. Send me a PM or e-mail and if enough people give a damm we will organize a chalk clean-up.
Although in a couple of months the boulders are going to be really white
"Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow......"
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downshift
Nov 12, 2001, 6:26 AM
Post #29 of 34
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Registered: Aug 1, 2001
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Darkside count me in for any clean up or anything. I probably can even get the rest of my climbing crew out as well. Anyways looks like I'm going to be spending lots of time in Niagra next year so I'll be more than glad to pitch in.
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rocmonkey
Nov 12, 2001, 8:32 AM
Post #30 of 34
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Registered: Mar 26, 2001
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I didn't previously have a view on this subject. Chalk was just an aid to me and the chalked holds didn't cause concern. But after reading these posts my eyes are open.
We had rain this weekend and a crux hold was full of mud. I had to basically throw a handfull of chalk on the hold just to preven falling the 33 feet. (I was doing a solo).
Usually I only chalk the tips of my fingers and thumb and blow the excess off my hands. So the climbs I do aren't really marked for life.
But from now on a toothbrush will form part of my rack.
Thanks for the insight dudes, I appreciate the eye-opener!
breathe stone
RoC
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atg200
Nov 13, 2001, 1:15 AM
Post #31 of 34
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
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Most people use way more chalk then they need to. I used a chalk bag maybe three times this summer, and then usually because the holds at Eldo were polished from so many other people using chalk.
Next time you are climbing, consciously think about how often you really need chalk versus how often you dip into your bag. I found that most of the times I dipped were either reflex or psychological-I wuld nearly always chalk at a good stance whether I needed to or not.
Yesterday was warm where I was climbing and I lead two routes at my limit with no chalk, and didn't feel like I needed it. Chalk is a necessary evil at places like the Gunks in July, or the southeast most of the time, but if you are on granite or sandstone and the humidity is less than 30 percent you should try weaning yourself off the white stuff.
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rocmonkey
Nov 13, 2001, 1:09 PM
Post #32 of 34
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Registered: Mar 26, 2001
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Yeah, I tend to automatically dip into my chalk bag nearly every move I make.
I started weaning myself after I read and replied to this post. What i try to do now is chalk on the ground and then try and finish my bouldering problem before dipping again.
breathe stone (not chalk hehehe)
RoC
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c_plante
Nov 13, 2001, 7:24 PM
Post #33 of 34
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Registered: Aug 9, 2001
Posts: 265
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What downshift failed to convey is that when we were at sunset we found large chunks of chalk. Not just powder, but chunks about the size of an eraser tip and larger all over the place. Either someone had an accident and decided to make the best of it by smearing the chalk every which way, or they're being excessive.
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rocmonkey
Nov 22, 2001, 9:48 AM
Post #34 of 34
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Registered: Mar 26, 2001
Posts: 292
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That is EXCESS for sure
breathe stone
RoC
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