Feb 10, 2007, 11:12 AM
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Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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1. Must be > 6 pitches 2. Doesn't have to be advanced rating 3. Doesn't have to be "pure" trad (ie mixed ice OK, aid OK, minimal bolts OK). 4. Immediate disqualification if you did the first ascent.
Give the name of the route Locale What you loved about it
Feb 10, 2007, 1:02 PM
Post #2 of 44
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Re: [doktor_g] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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Given that the site's membership lives overwhelmingly in the US, I'm going to guess that the winner will be North America. I know... I know... my intellect is stunning, is it not?
Zoo View Moore's Wall, NC, USA Wildly overhung and intimidating as hell from the ground, close inspection yields a sea of handle-bar jugs and textbook protection. It's only three pitches, but hey, it's my favorite.
(This post was edited by j_ung on Feb 10, 2007, 1:05 PM)
Feb 10, 2007, 1:40 PM
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Re: [doktor_g] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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Epinephrine in red rocks. 15 pitches 2,000 ft. 9 or 10 pitches of 5.9 and a couple of the sickest moves i've ever seen to get out of the chimneys. We did it right before thanksgiving when the days are a real short, It's just sustained 5.9 climbing for a long long time, when you finally top out it's amazing, one of the best sunsets I've ever seen.
(This post was edited by climbingaggie03 on Feb 10, 2007, 1:50 PM)
Feb 10, 2007, 3:17 PM
Post #7 of 44
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Re: [doktor_g] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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Two of these routes aren't over 6 pitches- my top three are 1) Zoo View- Moore's Wall, NC as mentioned above 2) Fantastic- Stone Mountain - 4 pitches beginning with Yosemite-like crack and face climbing to run out friction climbing 3) Tunnel Vision- Red Rocks, NV - having to put on a headlamp to climb through a vertical cave five pitches up was a wild experience
Feb 10, 2007, 3:51 PM
Post #8 of 44
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Re: [euphoriagtrst] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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Moby Grape - Cannon Cliff, NH with the Reppy's Crack start and the Kurt's Corner finish.
5.8, 9 pitches, a spectacular setting, almost no fixed pro, a great variety of climbing throughout the route (jamcrack, slab, face, squeeze chimney (or hand traverse), layback), fun moves on every pitch, and some of the coolest features you've ever climbed on (the triangle roof, the sickle, the fickle finger of fate, etc.).
Just pay no attention to the afternoon thunderstorms and swarms of black flies.
(This post was edited by stickyfingerz on Feb 14, 2007, 4:35 PM)
Feb 10, 2007, 4:55 PM
Post #9 of 44
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Re: [doktor_g] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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Salbitschijen, SW Ridge, Urner Alps in central Switzerland. Best granite possible, with the usual necessary ingrendients -- hard (for me) 5.9, length, route finding, pinnacles and towers galore, spectacular setting, not too well known so crowds only on wknds, and a summit needle that proves Mother Nature has a sense of humor.
Feb 10, 2007, 5:35 PM
Post #10 of 44
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Re: [tetons] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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In my short career - Corrugation Corner at Lover's Leap, CA. Only three pitches, but one of the steepest 5.7s around. When you make the traverse out onto the arete on the second pitch, you suddenly have about 300 feet of air between your legs, and it stays exposed like that almost all the way to the top.
Feb 10, 2007, 7:17 PM
Post #12 of 44
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Re: [rcnc21] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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I don't know how many pitches it is ('cause I've only soloed it), but Braille Book in yosemite stands out in my memory as the best all natural route I have ever done. And when soloing, the speed and freedom combined with the view and actual route quality made it unforgettable.
Feb 10, 2007, 11:59 PM
Post #13 of 44
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Re: [doktor_g] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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Earth Angel in Mormon Canyon in Sedona. Sick climbing, sick location. 5.10. It's a long haul out there with steep bushwacking. But when you get out there, it's really solitary (pretty rare for Sedona area). The 5.10 off-width section is protected by a bolt -- but it's a little unneccessary in my humble opinion. This baby goes up a 1000' spire in 6-8 pitches. The spire's base is probably close to 1/8 mile in diameter at the base with a 12' wide summit! It really is a must-do for desert/spire climbing afficianados.
Feb 13, 2007, 6:11 PM
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Re: [rico511] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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I have two, both in Yosemite:
The N Face of the Rostrum (5.11c) - This climb ascends some of the best cracks I've seen anywhere. It slowly arches from slabby to overhung so you can see the whole route the entire time you're on it. Even the offwidth was fun. It was sustained and perfect. I can't imagine it gets any better.
Astroman (5.11c) - Sustained is an understatement. This climb has history, unique pitches (who can forget the Harding Slot or the Enduro Corner?) and a hell of a last pitch to keep you on your toes even though you're tired.
I love good granite cracks, and these two routes have some of the best.
Feb 13, 2007, 7:01 PM
Post #19 of 44
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Re: [doktor_g] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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The best routes for me. 1. Royal Arches - Yosemite, CA USA 1. Diedre - Squamish, BC, Canada. 2. Grand Wall - Squamish, BC, Canada 4. Sons of Yesterday / Serenity Crack - Yosemite, CA
Yes, there seems to be a bit of favoritism towards granite.
Feb 13, 2007, 7:25 PM
Post #21 of 44
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Re: [doktor_g] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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I can't name one so I will name a few that come to mind...
The Nose, Looking Glass Direct East Face, 1st Flatiron Original Route (Traditions finish), Whitesides Fathom, Laurel Knob Central Pillar of Frenzy, Yosemite Swiss Arete, Mt. Sill, Palisades...
Feb 13, 2007, 7:52 PM
Post #22 of 44
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Re: [doktor_g] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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Epinepherine is up there, top 3 for sure. The top half is so cruiser, pitch after pitch. just simply enjoyable climbing.
Cloud Tower, 7 pitches, also in red rocks, 5.11d, crack overdose, is amazing. the last pitch (without the extension) after tunnelling thru a chimney to a spacious ledge, you are rewarded with an incredible 5.11+ Indian Creek-style sandstone handcrack in a corner. Just unreal.
Mithral Diherdral, 5.10 on Mt. Russell, high sierra, CA. Flawless sierra granite, alpine setting, 250 foot section of handjamming heaven.
Feb 14, 2007, 6:53 AM
Post #26 of 44
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Re: [doktor_g] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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East Ridge of Disappointment Peak, Tetons.
Only 4 pitches if done right and the descent sucks a bit, but it was really fun, lots of exposure for a 5.6 route, steep at the end, just good fun varied climbing. And hardly anyone ever does it. Right out over the north face too, looking down to the glacier at the base of the grand.
Feb 14, 2007, 6:13 PM
Post #27 of 44
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Re: [builttospill] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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My favorite is probably Lotus Flower Tower in the Cirque of the Unclimbables, if that thing were in the lower 48 it would be mobbed.
Some others I like:
-Serenity/Sons of Yesterday, Yosemite -Moonlight Buttress, Zion -Spaceshot, Zion -S-Direct, Little Cottonwood -Rainbow Wall, Red Rocks -N Face Monkey Face, Smith Rock -Beckey-Chouinard, S Howser Tower, Bugaboos -Mountaineers Route, Elephant's Perch
Feb 17, 2007, 7:45 AM
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Re: [metrogroaz] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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Probably number one would be South Face of Charlotte Dome deep in the Sierra Nevada, California, USA...A long, but killer hike in keeps down the crowds and the granite is perfect the WHOLE way up! Awesome views and perfect climbing make this my fav. Just look at it!
A tie for second place between Southwest Buttress of Cathedral and the West Ridge on Conness, both in Tuolumne, both climbed solo. That probably made the experiance even better, but none can deny the sheer pleasure and perfection of these routes!
Then up for third is any route on Mt. Russell, again in the Sierra. I've done the Mitheral Dihedral, the Fishook arete and the East Ridge, all AWESOME routes. We did Mitheral in less than 6 pitches however...
Rounding out the list comes Epinephrine. Just a great long route...the fun never stops!
Whoops, I forgot the third pillar of dana!!!!!!
now...the list will definately change once I go to the Bugaboos, climb half dome, and get on some grade V's in the Sierra this summer...LOOK OUT BIG GRANITE I COME!
Feb 17, 2007, 8:54 AM
Post #33 of 44
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Re: [superbum] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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superbum wrote:
Probably number one would be South Face of Charlotte Dome deep in the Sierra Nevada, California, USA...A long, but killer hike in keeps down the crowds and the granite is perfect the WHOLE way up! Awesome views and perfect climbing make this my fav. Just look at it!
This definitely comes in as my favorite, too. The rock is unbelievable -- nothing loose anywhere. Great view of North Guard and Brewer from the upper pitches. The approach/descent from Bubbs Creek sucked, especially the manzanita field near the top, but the climb itself was spectacular.
If we expand the list to include sub-6 pitch routes, The Open Book at Tahquitz probably comes in second for me, though I expect that to change as I get into the Sierra more.
Feb 17, 2007, 3:07 PM
Post #34 of 44
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Re: [snoopy138] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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I love the fact that this list is global and lowly little Moore's Wall, a half hour from my house, got mentioned several times. Jay is right though, Zoo View is just about the coolest route going.
I do have to put in a plug for the N. Ridge of Mt Stuart in the Cascades--the approach/descent keeps you honest (read: brutal)and the climbingis spectacular!!!
Feb 17, 2007, 6:23 PM
Post #36 of 44
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Re: [doktor_g] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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outer space (III 5.9), snow creek wall, leavenworth WA. because i managed to hit it on a day when no one else was even at snow creek wall (rare). and the 300 foot ending 2 pitches on the shield with perfect a perfect handcrack and chickenheads that make you smile. plus, the entrance fee to the fun at the end is the beautifully exposed right-arching crack traverse that is theoretically the crux (though i think pulling the bulge off of library ledge on finger locks was technically trickier, albeit shorter).
Feb 19, 2007, 2:16 AM
Post #37 of 44
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Re: [doktor_g] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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I really like the Steck-Salathe in Yosemite. Interesting approach, challenging terrain, cool position on the upper headwall, and of course the narrows. That may be one of the most unique pitches in the valley; you're snaking around 15 feet inside the rock, barely able to turn your head. Plus you get a great summit.
"Northwest Passage" on Monkey Face here at Smith is only four pitches, and only three are trad, but it's my favorite crack route. Creepy exposure, three styles of Smith tuff, and good gear at the crux. The bolted bulge finish is super fun as well, with lots of air below your feet. Man, maybe I'll climb that tomorrow!
Feb 19, 2007, 3:27 AM
Post #38 of 44
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Re: [doktor_g] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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I would rate equally - Sierras: Dark Star (Temple Crag), Harding Route (Keeler Needle), Third Pillar (Mt. Dana), The Nose. Red Rocks: Epinephrine, Eagle Dance, Levitation 29 and Sour Mash.
In a separate category, routes I had a hand in the FA: Mean Streak (Whitney Portal Buttress, Whitney Portal).
My head would explode if I had to come up with reasons why I would pick any of these routes over the others.
Feb 20, 2007, 8:16 PM
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Re: [cchas] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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Man, what a cool thread. Here's my top 10 in no particular order.
Linville Gorge: Daddy (only 5 pitches) Looking Glass: The Glass Menagerie RMNP: The Diamond, J-Crack, Eldo: Yellow Spur, Boulder Canyon: Country Club Crack (only 2 pitches) Tuolomne: Regular on Fairview, Lucky Streaks on Fairveiw, Cathedral Peak, OZ to Gram Traverse, Dana Plateau: Third Pillar
Feb 21, 2007, 2:40 AM
Post #44 of 44
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Re: [kachoong] Where was the best Trad Route you've ever done.
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East face of pingora, in the winds. Its not one of the more popular routes, but damned good. My girlfriend and I did the 5.6 variation, it felt like an FA, not one piece of fixed gear the whole way (we bailed off to the shoulder). My girlfriend is climbing way stronger now, so we will have to go back this summer and do the whole thing, maybe the 5.8 way???
I can't believe how good the rock on pingora is, the popular routes must be the sickest lines anywhere, we had perfect splitters, the only loose stuff was on ledges, and I still had to clean grass from a few cracks for anchors, crazy.
(This post was edited by unrooted on Feb 21, 2007, 2:41 AM)
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