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moof
Feb 11, 2008, 12:01 AM
Post #26 of 30
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Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 400
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phile wrote: ... 2. how well does frogging work on slabs? On slabs the 2 jug, one aider per jug, is very efficient, and is about like doing the stairmaster. Iwould avoid the Frog for this as you basically have to lie against the rock to slide the upper ascender up since both feet are tied up.
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whiskeykid
Feb 20, 2008, 4:24 PM
Post #27 of 30
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Registered: Jun 16, 2006
Posts: 34
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My two bits: My climbing partner and I have been training for a spring trip to Utah for about 6 weeks. Twice a week we hang a chain and a pulley from the rafters of my shop and take turns jugging a rope while the other person belays out slack through a brake bar. Initially we would each do one full rope length of the two jugs/two aiders method and then one length of frog style, but as we grew more efficient with two jugs we stopped practicing frog style entirely. I feel that when we were out of shape and out of practice the frog style seemed much easier. The setup is simpler, the movement is simpler, and there's less technique involved. Just reach and stand up! As we got more efficient with two jugs though, it seemed like the frog style was slower and slower. We have since stopped practicing the frog style entirely, and have switched over to the two jug style exclusively. I find that the frog style, or the inchworm as we've come to call it, is such a short movement that has to be fully reset each time. Stop start stop start. The two jug style, once practiced enough and efficiency has been gained, is much more fluid. Now when I compare them side to side it feels like the rope is sailing past me with two jugs while it hardly seems like I'm moving with the frog system. Perhaps though, if there were two or three free hanging ropes to jug back to back, it may be a different story.
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pmyche
Feb 20, 2008, 7:27 PM
Post #28 of 30
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Registered: Jan 21, 2004
Posts: 1160
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stymingersfink
Feb 20, 2008, 11:21 PM
Post #29 of 30
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
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pmyche wrote: Look at the elites and see what they use. By my observations they don't use caving setups. Mine either. We were on the P13 ledge of Lunar Eclipse several years ago when the uber-bro's were working the Zod for a FFA. I've never before, nor since, seen someone (well three someone's, including Heinz) jug up a fixed line so god-damn fast. This, after they'd stopped for a smoke break. for the record, they were using the gold and blue petzl jugs. the 200' up to the ledge were free-hanging, as were several hundred feet of the jug to the top.
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bkalaska
Feb 21, 2008, 12:09 AM
Post #30 of 30
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Registered: Feb 16, 2005
Posts: 143
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I have used a gri gri on a pretty fat line, and the main problem is the added friction. It would be more tiring to pull a the rope through the gri gri when ascending than the efficiency you gain in movement. It would be an expensive mistake so I would borrow the gear and try it out before dropping the money on a gri gri. I would suggest taking to cavers (spelunkers). The most efficient ascension I ever saw was my hydrology professor who was an amazing caver. He had a chest ascender setup that blew me away, and I haven't been able to recreate.
(This post was edited by bkalaska on Feb 21, 2008, 12:12 AM)
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