|
brent_e
Feb 27, 2007, 9:58 PM
Post #26 of 28
(479 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 5111
|
crotch wrote: mtselman wrote: crotch wrote: Holding an F2 fall on a single strand is a possibility with a double rope system. Consider a fall while clipping the first piece. Wouldn't it be a fall on two strands in this case? If the leader is pulling up slack on one strand to clip the first piece, then one strand will be longer than the other and the fall would be held only on the shorter strand until the rope slipped or stretched enough to engage the second strand.
and you should only have tension in one strand off of a belay to put less force on the belay station.
|
|
|
|
|
stymingersfink
Mar 1, 2007, 8:19 AM
Post #27 of 28
(450 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
|
paulraphael wrote: when my b-52 wears out i might try the guide xp ... maybe it will be great enough that the extra couple of ounces will be worth it.
|
|
|
|
|
paulraphael
Mar 1, 2007, 2:40 PM
Post #28 of 28
(442 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2004
Posts: 670
|
I've never seen any study correlating hot belay devices with sheath lifespan. Most sheaths seem to wear out from simple abrasion. Accelerated by abrasive dirt and metal getting ground into the fibers.
Also, there are other factors besides mass that determine how hot a belay device gets. How its shape works as a heat sink, providing surface area to the air, etc... And of course, how fast you rap. If you like to 'be all that you can be' all the time and rap like someone's shooting at you, that will make a bigger difference than what piece of aluminum you have dangling from your harness.
|
|
|
|
|
|
