|
bishop
Apr 11, 2007, 4:47 PM
Post #1 of 93
(31175 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2001
Posts: 192
|
Does anyone have more information about the ground fall on Souders Crack (Long Wall - RRG) this past weekend? Anyone know the status of the climber?
So far this is what I've heard :
50-60 ft fall
No head injury
Fractured ankle
Fractured wrist
Two pieces failed one being an Alien broken in two after the fall
(This post was edited by bishop on Apr 12, 2007, 2:06 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
Apr 11, 2007, 4:54 PM
Post #2 of 93
(31153 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
I would imagine that its the same fall that I heard about this weekend. My friends stopped to help the climber's gf, call 911, etc. If it is the same accident then the climber was amazingly lucky.
I have some details, but I'd rather wait till someone with better info about the accident chimed it (seeing as I'm not even sure which wall my friends helped this girl at). I'd hate to spread false info.
Regadless, I hope every one is recovering well. Best wishes to the injured.
|
|
|
|
|
marcuder
Apr 11, 2007, 6:40 PM
Post #3 of 93
(31074 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 16, 2006
Posts: 41
|
Hey Bishop,
We were at Global Village in RRG when I heard the story. By then the distance was described as 80 feet, spine injury, broken hip, 6 inch deep foot prints...
By the way, I heard your name called but didn't catch a glimpse of you while in the Village area... I did see Hil, Al, bunch of other guys... Where did you guys go?
Anyway, I'd like to know which route this happened on myself.... anyone?
Mp
|
|
|
|
|
m2j1s
Apr 12, 2007, 12:42 AM
Post #4 of 93
(30945 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 8, 2006
Posts: 77
|
does anybody know what happened here??
|
|
|
|
|
tradrenn
Apr 12, 2007, 12:56 AM
Post #5 of 93
(30929 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 2990
|
granite_grrl wrote: I would imagine that its the same fall that I heard about this weekend. My friends stopped to help the climber's gf, call 911, etc. If it is the same accident then the climber was amazingly lucky. I have some details, but I'd rather wait till someone with better info about the accident chimed it (seeing as I'm not even sure which wall my friends helped this girl at). I'd hate to spread false info.
The one you are talking about happened at Easter Sky Bridge Ridge.
I will PM one of the people that help with the link to this thread.
granite_grrl wrote: Regardless, I hope every one is recovering well. Best wishes to the injured.
Same here.
|
|
|
|
|
tradrenn
Apr 12, 2007, 12:58 AM
Post #6 of 93
(30923 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 2990
|
bishop wrote: Two pieces failed one being an Alien broken in two after the fall
What was the other piece ?
Got some pics to back this up ?
(You know, before this gets put of hand again)
Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
adelicious
Apr 12, 2007, 4:11 AM
Post #7 of 93
(30835 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 12, 2006
Posts: 17
|
I will say what I know to try to help clear things up. I have HEARD (I don't know) that there were several different accidents at RRG at several different crags over the Easter weekend. I can only speak of the one I have knowledge of:
The accident happened at Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge on or near Jack in the Pulpit 5.10d (see photo) at approximately 4 something pm on Friday. When we (leedaclimber, shadowgnu and I) encountered the girl running down the road towards our vehicle it was just after 4:30. She could not find her car and I think she may have been in shock. She couldn’t speak very well and it took a while to figure out what had happened and that the injured person was at the wall with 2 other climbers who were looking after him. She said she was belaying and she dropped her friend somehow. She was unclear what happened but her gloves had holes all across the fingers from the rope. She said he had blood coming out of his mouth (which we later found out was because he had bit his tongue/cheeks when he fell) she said they had sent her to get someone to call 911. No one had phones – and I never usually do either but for some reason I had mine that day. We couldn’t find reception anywhere so the girl got in our vehicle and we helped her find her car where she tried her phone. She did not get reception either. We got her in our car and drove until we found reception up on top of the hill near the tourist parking lot near the Sky Bridge Ridge tourist rails. The time of call on my phone says we called finally got through to 911 at 4:49pm. We had to leave leedaclimber with the phone where there was reception as the 911 said they may need to call him back. The girl, Shadowgnu and I went back down to the scene. I stayed in the vehicle as I have a broken ankle and couldn’t make the approach this is why I can't say what happened AT the climb. I do know that Shadowgnu ran up to assess the situation and to let the injured guy and two other climbers (who had been climbing near by and were looking after him) that help was on its way. The girl was told to stand at the path beside the road so that the paramedics and forestry would know where to stop. We ended calling the forestry people directly (as advised by 911) and drove back up the road to help direct the ambulance. The ambulance arrived sometime around 5:30p.m. and it took a long time for them to get the guy out of the forest with the help of about 8 volunteers that helped carry his stretcher over their heads to get around rocks etc. along the approach trail. Apparently he was experiencing pain in his lower back but was still conscious and reacting to things and asking them to put him in more comfortable positions. I was told that he fell from the last clip before the anchor of the 80 foot climb – maybe a 65-70 fall. He had lead the climb already, then he put her on it, then he set her up to belay by anchoring her to a tree. He was cleaning the route when he fell leaving a couple craters in the ground where his feet landed and another from his bum? The two climbers assisting him said he did not hit his head. At the time it was suspected the guy would be okay despite some lower back damage to vertebraes, but these were mostly assumptions. I am not sure if there were any further updates after that. I heard people talking about it at Miguel’s but I am not sure if anyone knew factual stuff if you know what I mean. I really hope the guy is okay.
Also see: www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?t=8242
(This post was edited by adelicious on Apr 19, 2007, 1:47 PM)
|
|
Attachments:
|
jack in the pulpit.jpg
(18.5 KB)
|
|
|
|
|
bishop
Apr 12, 2007, 2:10 PM
Post #8 of 93
(30730 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2001
Posts: 192
|
Adelicious... Thanks for the info on the other unfortunate accident. Thanks to you and your friends for helping... it's great to know that we participate in a sport where everyone is there to help when bad things happen.
Update: It turns out the original accident that I reported wasn't Rock Wars, it was the 11d crack to the left called Souders Crack.
|
|
|
|
|
marcuder
Apr 12, 2007, 2:22 PM
Post #9 of 93
(30700 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 16, 2006
Posts: 41
|
Wow, thanks for that concise report! It sounds like the story I heard from an older gentleman climber that was there (he appeared to be a photographer so I wonder if there is any pics of the location where this happened at), who was at the scene and helped with the rescue, so it must be the same event.
He also mentioned a GriGri and a lack of experience with its use. It seems to fit with 'holes in the gloves' description. I'm curious because it has happened to at least two of my friends on two separate occasions where the GriGri failed. Being a user of the device myself I'm worried about the overengineered gadget...
Anyhow, the Easter weekend seems to have a an injury theme itself because on Saturday we have ran into an Ontario climber (climber_grrl, was that you?) that recently recovered from an injury and began climbing again. I can't help but to think that it must bring back a lot of painful memories.
Well, I hope everybody will come out ok from this. My sympathies go out to the fallen, and the one who dropped him - she must feel horrible...
|
|
|
|
|
reg
Apr 12, 2007, 2:23 PM
Post #10 of 93
(30695 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1560
|
sounds like the ground was wet/soft - good thing - took some load off the fall - tragic when we fall to ground - hopin BOTH involved get through this.
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
Apr 12, 2007, 3:28 PM
Post #11 of 93
(30577 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
marcuder wrote: Anyhow, the Easter weekend seems to have a an injury theme itself because on Saturday we have ran into an Ontario climber (climber_grrl, was that you?) that recently recovered from an injury and began climbing again. I can't help but to think that it must bring back a lot of painful memories.
You mean granite_grrl? Yeah, that was probobly me. Oversized powder blue TNF down jacket and usually walking around with a trekking pole? I felt like I was talking about my accident all weekend, but climbers are naturally curious about climbing accidents and I guess its a good reminder of how shit happens.
When Adele's bf Matthew was telling me the story my heart was in my throught, I'm just glad that it wasn't near as bad as it could have been.
(This post was edited by granite_grrl on Apr 12, 2007, 3:39 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Apr 12, 2007, 3:44 PM
Post #13 of 93
(30525 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
(So then, let me get this straight... there is no broken Alien anywhere in this story, right?)
Sounds like everybody got lucky! Good work to those who helped and speedy recovery to the injured.
|
|
|
|
|
euphoriagtrst
Apr 12, 2007, 4:34 PM
Post #14 of 93
(30442 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2004
Posts: 62
|
It sounds like the grigri was threaded backwards? That seems like an easy mistake to make if you're not careful...
|
|
|
|
|
bishop
Apr 12, 2007, 5:32 PM
Post #15 of 93
(30354 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2001
Posts: 192
|
j_ung wrote: (So then, let me get this straight... there is no broken Alien anywhere in this story, right?)
This thread has turned into a combo of two accidents that happened in the RRG Easter weekend. The original thread is about a ground fall at Long Wall... where there is a broken Alien involved. It wasn't the cause of the fall, it broke during the fall.
The second accident at Sky Bridge seems to involve lack of experience with a gri-gri.
wormly81 wrote: The GriGri didnt fail. The belayer who was using it incorrectly failed.
Agreed
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Apr 12, 2007, 5:48 PM
Post #16 of 93
(30329 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
euphoriagtrst wrote: It sounds like the grigri was threaded backwards? That seems like an easy mistake to make if you're not careful...
This is NOT an easy mistake.. there are pictures right on the device telling you EXACTLY where the rope should go..
Also it could be alot of things that would cause rope burns.. like pulling down the handle(gas pedal) and not letting it go when the climber gets going too fast for the brake hand to control..
boggles my mind.. and gets said way to often.. gri gri's and Cinch's are for experienced belayers not Noobs.. despite what the rock gym's insurance companies want to believe.
|
|
|
|
|
reg
Apr 12, 2007, 6:19 PM
Post #17 of 93
(30263 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1560
|
jakedatc wrote: This is NOT an easy mistake...... gri gri's and Cinch's are for experienced belayers not Noobs.......... " despite what the rock gym's insurance companies want to believe."!!!!
wow - excellent point - never thought of it that way - noob: "release handle, pull handle, release, pull.....arrrg!! i never get that right!"
|
|
|
|
|
nnowinowski
Apr 12, 2007, 6:32 PM
Post #18 of 93
(30232 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 5, 2003
Posts: 84
|
are we talking about a braze failure or a blow out here? What is the dirt
|
|
|
|
|
billcoe_
Apr 12, 2007, 7:13 PM
Post #19 of 93
(30177 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
|
marcuder wrote: He also mentioned a GriGri and a lack of experience with its use. It seems to fit with 'holes in the gloves' description. I'm curious because it has happened to at least two of my friends on two separate occasions where the GriGri failed.
Not to redirect the thread, but your Grigri "failing" statement makes me think that you meant to say that the belayers (who happened to be using GriGris) FAILED. Like it appears to be in this instance. No?
Glad the dude survived and everyone pitched in.
|
|
|
|
|
marcuder
Apr 12, 2007, 7:47 PM
Post #20 of 93
(30122 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 16, 2006
Posts: 41
|
Yeah, absolutely... I stand corrected. If you look at the GriGri it's pretty hard to make it fail unless you put a blow torch to it. Poorly thought out question on my part. Anyhow, I completely agree most climbing accidents happen from either misuse, inattention, ignorance, or plain stupidity of the climber using it. Even when equipment fails it is usually from combination of one or more of the above.
The one that scares me the most is mounting the rope in reverse - it is so easy to get that wrong... As a matter of habit I check my belayer that he has me threaded properly and that the beaner is locked. I know that it may seem like you're questioning your partner's abilities but I've seen very experienced climbers leave beaners open... we all get distracted sometimes. Anyhow, best way to treat the GriGri is like any other friction device, like an ATC. If your partner falls it is possible to arrest the rope even if it's threaded wrong - as long as you're on the ball.
I think that GriGri's Achilles Heal is that it tempts to think they're secure because of its auto-blocking mechanism... and when you're new to the sport, well... problem with rock climbing is that there is very little margin for error.
|
|
|
|
|
marcuder
Apr 12, 2007, 8:12 PM
Post #22 of 93
(30083 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 16, 2006
Posts: 41
|
I think it's something that happens after you've been using it for a while, you become casual about roping up. At that point you might feel pretty confident, be chatting with your friend, have a hot girl ( or guy, your choice) walk by and get distracted. Then, because you feel so confident of your abilities you discard the checklist that was drummed into you when you took your climbing instruction and not check the rope and belay device. This is why I think the most dangerous time for a climber is not nescesseraly at the beginning but somewhere after he/she acquired enough confidence and the fear of screwing up has melted off into a memory of "what it was like when we were starting out".
And speaking of pictures, people miss stop signs all the time in spite of the fact that they're big, red, and in your face. Letting down your guard is a killer, and one of the first things cited in accident reports.
|
|
|
|
|
dcaldous
Apr 12, 2007, 8:13 PM
Post #23 of 93
(30080 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 12, 2006
Posts: 28
|
If people don't look or aren't paying attention it can easily happen. People get casual about belaying and accidents can happen.
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Apr 12, 2007, 8:18 PM
Post #24 of 93
(30070 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
I guess thats why i test the climber side after i thread my Cinch for leading.. which i have not used much so hopefully I don't get lazy) and my reverso when bringing up a second for multipitch
|
|
|
|
|
carabiner96
Apr 12, 2007, 8:28 PM
Post #25 of 93
(30044 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2006
Posts: 12610
|
Ok...rumor has it that a gri-gri threaded backwards has about 80% of the power of a regular Tub device...meaning the grip isn't as solkid in terms of friction, but it could still work as such as long as the braking position was properly applied?
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
