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caughtinside
Apr 14, 2007, 3:06 AM
Post #51 of 78
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jt512 wrote: miavzero wrote: jt512 wrote: cchildre wrote: Leading a run out 5.8 on gear, is by far more exciting and satsifying than a 5.8 sport route "5.8 sport" is practically a contradiction. How about leading a run out 5.8 on gear vs climbing difficult and gymnastic 5.12. Jay How about eating an apple vs eating an orange. I prefer 5.12 sport and oranges. That was tough. Jay
Interesting. I would have said that apples are more like sport climbing, because you don't have to fiddle around with a pesky peel to get to the goods.
Maybe you like all that widget pinching, and you just don't know it yet.
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leapinlizard
Apr 14, 2007, 4:07 AM
Post #52 of 78
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I like sport climbing, it's just sometimes I like to feel like I actually accomplished something, and while I do get this feeling after topping out a hard sport route, the sense of accompliment is no where near as good as topping out on a trad climb. It connexts me more with nature.
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jt512
Apr 14, 2007, 4:45 AM
Post #53 of 78
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leapinlizard wrote: I like sport climbing, it's just sometimes I like to feel like I actually accomplished something, and while I do get this feeling after topping out a hard sport route, the sense of accompliment is no where near as good as topping out on a trad climb. It connexts me more with nature.
If your goal is to "top out" then you shouldn't like sport climbing at all, since most sport climbs don't actually top out. On the other hand, if you are primarily interested in climbing movement, then it's hard not to prefer sport climbing.
Jay
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leapinlizard
Apr 14, 2007, 8:47 AM
Post #54 of 78
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Are you saying that you never reach the top of a sport climb? I guess I had never looked at climbing like that. I guess I have always wanted to reach the anchors, so that I could say I climbed the route.
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reno
Apr 14, 2007, 1:48 PM
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jt512 wrote: On the other hand, if you are primarily interested in climbing movement, then it's hard not to prefer sport climbing.
One could make the same argument for top-rope climbing.
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dingus
Apr 14, 2007, 2:22 PM
Post #56 of 78
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I like fruit salad. MMMMM.
DMT
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musicman1586
Apr 14, 2007, 3:38 PM
Post #57 of 78
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leapinlizard wrote: Most sport routes are placed by someone hanging on rappel
Uh...I think this more depends on local ethic than the general practice, because I know for certain that many of the areas I've been to and around my area were all put up on lead. There's plenty of places where they've all been rap-bolted, but there's lots of places where everything went up on lead.
Anyways, to answer the OP, why trad? Because you have no limits, you can climb anywhere pretty much. You have the choice to do push your physical limits on single pitch climbs or push your mental limits on long multi-pitch climbs. Gear is plenty safe, I've seen plenty of footage of guys taking 40-60 foot falls on a run out route onto some pretty small gear, but the reality is that on a large number of routes you will have plenty of gear options and will likely not take a fall any longer than you would on a sport route. In truth alot of climbers I know place more gear when climbing than the number of bolts on a route of similar length. Gear is plenty safe, yes you do have to learn how to place it, but when placed properly it holds, bottom line.
Oh and yes, that long fall in MOS was staged, as stated before the slings were all cut through to enable him to take such a long (but controlled) fall.
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jt512
Apr 14, 2007, 5:05 PM
Post #58 of 78
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leapinlizard wrote: Are you saying that you never reach the top of a sport climb? I guess I had never looked at climbing like that. I guess I have always wanted to reach the anchors, so that I could say I climbed the route.
You hopefully reach the anchors on a sport route, you don't usually "top out." Topping out is when the climb up onto the top of the formation you are climbing. Most sport routes don't end that way. They end at anchors on the face of the route; thus you don't top out.
Jay
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jt512
Apr 14, 2007, 5:08 PM
Post #59 of 78
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reno wrote: jt512 wrote: On the other hand, if you are primarily interested in climbing movement, then it's hard not to prefer sport climbing. One could make the same argument for top-rope climbing.
Yes.
Jay
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jt512
Apr 14, 2007, 5:12 PM
Post #60 of 78
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musicman1586 wrote: leapinlizard wrote: Most sport routes are placed by someone hanging on rappel Uh...I think this more depends on local ethic than the general practice, because I know for certain that many of the areas I've been to and around my area were all put up on lead. There's plenty of places where they've all been rap-bolted, but there's lots of places where everything went up on lead.
I think "went" is the operative word there. You don't see that much anymore. One objective of bolting a sport route is to locate the bolts in the best positions, which is much easier to do on rappel, often after rehearsing sections to figure out moves and clipping stances.
Jay
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alexmac
Apr 14, 2007, 7:31 PM
Post #61 of 78
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jgailor wrote: Here's the easy answer: Not all routes are bolted!
Trophy
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kyote321
Apr 15, 2007, 2:34 PM
Post #62 of 78
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kyote321 wrote:
'be all you can be. be extremely extreme or go home.'
hell yeah! that is one of the best mashed up multi-cliches I've ever seen!
thanks man. the meat of it is, of course, 'extremely extreme' from the best funny films in years: "harold and kumar go to white castle'
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tradmanclimbs
Apr 15, 2007, 4:57 PM
Post #63 of 78
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Why does it have to be a stupid fight??? We had just as much fun climbing prince of darkness as we did Dream of wild Turkeys and Triasic Sands. One trip we went to red Rocks and climbed mostly multi pitch trad then we cruised up to St george and climbed multi pitch sport then over to Zion for a trad spanking and then back to Vegas for some more trad. I prefer longer climbs that get to the top of things so that dictates that I usualy climb more trad. If there were a buch of long bolted climbs in my area I would climb them. Someday i want to go to potero chico And do those long sport climbs. If there is a crack to the top, climb it. If its face climbing with no gear then bolt the piss pout of it and then climb it What is the point in only doing one or the other and then trying to say one is better than the other??
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jaybro
Apr 23, 2007, 1:04 AM
Post #64 of 78
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It's a nightmare, stuff pops every pitch, stay away.
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rockguide
Apr 23, 2007, 1:35 AM
Post #65 of 78
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bigfatrock wrote: Hey guys, last weekend I had my first "trad" experience. I didn't lead but cleaned on a route and saw how gear was placed. I also recently saw a video on Masters of Stone of a guy taking a nasty whipper and 4 or 5 pieces of pro pop out on his fall, luckily he was high enough up the route that he had a piece to catch him. I have seen a few other videos similar to this as well. Does gear pop out that often? How easy is it to get it wrong? It seems fairly easy if experience climbers have numerous pieces coming out on a fall. Does it happen that often? If so why risk it? I know sport has its risks as well, but I definitely trust a bolt drilled into the wall more than placing a cam that can walk and come loose. Just kind of curious as to what drives you to it?
More places to play.
Craftsmanship.
Self reliance.
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gobennyjo
Apr 23, 2007, 1:39 AM
Post #66 of 78
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Because bolts are not in rock naturaly
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jt512
Apr 23, 2007, 2:13 AM
Post #68 of 78
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gobennyjo wrote: Because bolts are not in rock naturaly
As opposed to cams, which are.
Jay
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gobennyjo
Apr 23, 2007, 2:18 AM
Post #69 of 78
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What I mean is the rock does not need to be bolted.
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medicus
Apr 23, 2007, 2:19 AM
Post #70 of 78
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Lol, the same could be said to... As the hands and feet of humans who climb.
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jt512
Apr 23, 2007, 4:51 AM
Post #71 of 78
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gobennyjo wrote: What I mean is the rock does not need to be bolted.
The rock does not need to be climbed.
Jay
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112
Apr 23, 2007, 5:35 AM
Post #72 of 78
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Its kinda like moving out of your parents house. You take on a whole lot more responsibility when you move out and those new responsibilities reduce (momentarily) what you are able to do, but the rewards that follow...
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dingus
Apr 23, 2007, 11:26 PM
Post #74 of 78
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jt512 wrote: gobennyjo wrote: What I mean is the rock does not need to be bolted. The rock does not need to be climbed. Jay
Oh yes... it DOES. The rock DOES NEED TO BE CLIMBED.
Jay, wash yer mouth out with beer son. No more blasphemies in here or we're going straight to the Jack next time.
DMT
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medicus
Apr 26, 2007, 7:49 AM
Post #75 of 78
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The person does not need to exist.
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