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scrapedape
Apr 15, 2007, 10:21 PM
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Yeah, yeah, I know the locals are going to get their panties in a bunch about this, but here's the truth: there are just no routes there in the easy to moderate range that offer the kind of wild exposure that I crave. And that is sad indeed!
(This post was edited by scrapedape on Apr 16, 2007, 7:56 PM)
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thabadcharacter
Apr 15, 2007, 10:43 PM
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calculus crack 5.8. st. vitus' dance 5.9.
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willthethrill
Apr 16, 2007, 12:04 AM
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Crap Crag 5.7 dirty, nasty awsome climb.
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imcd
Apr 16, 2007, 12:23 AM
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try slot machine 5.9 2 pitches, good crack climbing. cream of whit mice is a fun as well.
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clintcummins
Apr 16, 2007, 8:53 PM
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Not every place will deliver exposed moderates like your nearby Seneca Rocks or the Gunks. I guess nearly all areas suck if that is the criteria.
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stevej
Apr 16, 2007, 9:04 PM
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I hate to say it, but scrapdape is right. Squamish does suck. The climate is not really good, and I don't know any well-travelled climbers (locals or otherwise) who consider squamish their favorite area.
On a more positive note, if you want an exposed moderate, go to the backside of the chief. There's Sunblessed, a very nice 5.10 type route of 4 pitches or so. Its easy climbing all the way to the last pitch and offers plenty of exposure.
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alpinismo_flujo
Apr 16, 2007, 9:12 PM
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Why does a place "suck" if your skills are not up to par with it?
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smithrockfreek
Apr 16, 2007, 9:17 PM
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Your all Easy to Moderate pussy's, all you want is somthing do-able where you can Hike up a hill for 5 pitches, skip all the real quality pitches and cheat past it to sonter up a 5.6 trad climb for exposer, so you can be able to go to the bar that night, brag to all your friends that your a multi pitch trad climber.
Squamish isn't the gunks!
or go bouldering if your that lazy, dont bring your hate to squamish.
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ihategrigris
Apr 16, 2007, 9:25 PM
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scrapedape wrote: Yeah, yeah, I know the locals are going to get their panties in a bunch about this, but here's the truth: there are just no routes there in the easy to moderate range that offer the kind of wild exposure that I crave. And that is sad indeed!
Upper malamute is also pretty good for exposure. I like squamish a lot, but I dislike the crowds there... so please don't come if you think it sucks.
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brentristing
Apr 16, 2007, 9:46 PM
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I'd say there is plenty of good climbing to be found in squamish, the only problem is how wet it is there. I've lived in Abbotsford for almost a year and have only been able to climb at squish a couple of times due to the massive amount of rain here. during the summer however it is an awesome place with all kinds of climbing.
breNt
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thomasribiere
Apr 16, 2007, 10:06 PM
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OK. I don't know Squamish. And I'm not a trad climber either. But what do YOU mean by easy or moderate range? And what do YOU mean by exposure?
Do you seriously realise the inanity of your post?
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tradrenn
Apr 16, 2007, 10:24 PM
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So....which 5.5 did you get your ass spanked by ?
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miavzero
Apr 16, 2007, 10:44 PM
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You forgot to mention that it rains all the time.
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nooyoozer
Apr 16, 2007, 11:03 PM
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you're complaining that the multi-million year-old rock at an area doesn't have climbs that you enjoy??? am i understanding this correctly? go somewhere else... that's almost like a sport climber saying that The Creek sucks because there are too many cracks - maybe not quite but come on, swallow your pride, try harder routes, and take some falls. it opens the doors.
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scrapedape
Apr 17, 2007, 12:10 AM
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Haha! Just as I predicted. A lot of handwringing and the predictable "shut up if you're not up to it."
But not a lot of examples of sub-5.10 routes with fun exposure.
Prove me wrong.
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yetanotherdave
Apr 17, 2007, 1:00 AM
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scrapedape wrote: Prove me wrong.
Some stuff on the Squaw is airy at low 10, but other places have way more exposure at way less effort.
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akicebum
Apr 17, 2007, 1:26 AM
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Try Leavenworth, great longer gentle routes. It's not valley, but at least there aren't crowds, and there are several easier trad crags for you to beef up on.
Whats with the bitching? Squamish doesn't suck. Next time you make a trip go to a store and go through a few guide books and find a place that suits your style and ability, don't go to mecca and complain that you are unprepared.
Oh and too whatever jackass asked which famous climbers call Squamish their fav I don't know maybe Russ Clune, Peter Croft, oh and what's that dudes name....Sonnie Trotter. Pull your heads out of your asses. Go climbing and quit worrying about who climbs where. remember 5.11 is 5.9 A2. Peace
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ihategrigris
Apr 17, 2007, 1:36 AM
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scrapedape wrote: Haha! Just as I predicted. A lot of handwringing and the predictable "shut up if you're not up to it." But not a lot of examples of sub-5.10 routes with fun exposure. Prove me wrong.
Do anything on the upper malamute, theres a couple 5.8s and couple of 5.9 and tons of good 5.10s. All have wonderful exposure right over the water (you have to rap in to the climbs!) High Mountain Woody (5.8+) is particularly good.
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scrapedape
Apr 17, 2007, 6:44 PM
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All right, thanks for the responses!
I'll level with you all. I originally started this thread with the title "Squamish - Easy climbs with good exposure" and basically asked a straightforward question.
No one batted an eye. It got a couple of replies, but then nothing.
So after a day I figured maybe I had to spice things up to elicit some more responses... seems it worked.
Though I now see that maybe there really aren't too many easy, exposed routes.
Thanks for the suggestions that were offered though, and we'll try to hit them up when we're out there next week.
And I'll reserve judgement on whether Squamish really sucks until after I get back.
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ihategrigris
Apr 17, 2007, 7:05 PM
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scrapedape wrote: All right, thanks for the responses! I'll level with you all. I originally started this thread with the title "Squamish - Easy climbs with good exposure" and basically asked a straightforward question. No one batted an eye. It got a couple of replies, but then nothing. So after a day I figured maybe I had to spice things up to elicit some more responses... seems it worked. Though I now see that maybe there really aren't too many easy, exposed routes. Thanks for the suggestions that were offered though, and we'll try to hit them up when we're out there next week. And I'll reserve judgement on whether Squamish really sucks until after I get back.
Hahaha.... yeah, you sure got everyone riled up :D. Truth is there's a lot of exposed stuff if you know where to look... the bullet heads, routes on the lower grand wall (eg. Merci Me), the Solarium.... but really, places like red rocks have much better exposure for sure.
I think you'll find that the quality of the rock, the fact that your climbing in a rain forest and the esthetic of Squamish crack climbing will keep you coming back once you come :).
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maracas
Apr 18, 2007, 7:59 AM
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You have to rephrase it to the weather in squamish really sucks.
And they will say they have a great summer (of 2 months), but then it will rain on and off (more on than off) for 10 months.
The rock is solid, the walls are nice, but the weather...
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alexmac
Apr 18, 2007, 12:45 PM
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scrapedape wrote: Yeah, yeah, I know the locals are going to get their panties in a bunch about this, but here's the truth: there are just no routes there in the easy to moderate range that offer the kind of wild exposure that I crave. And that is sad indeed!
Wow, why not ask for limestone at a granite site, easy and wild exposure, try a bar .
(This post was edited by alexmac on Apr 18, 2007, 12:46 PM)
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rockforlife
Apr 18, 2007, 2:39 PM
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alpinismo_flujo wrote: Why does a place "suck" if your skills are not up to par with it?
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scrapedape
Apr 18, 2007, 2:48 PM
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alexmac wrote: scrapedape wrote: Yeah, yeah, I know the locals are going to get their panties in a bunch about this, but here's the truth: there are just no routes there in the easy to moderate range that offer the kind of wild exposure that I crave. And that is sad indeed! Wow, why not ask for limestone at a granite site, easy and wild exposure, try a bar .
Your posts have lately deteriorated from ignorant to incoherent. Did you end up on the wrong end of some rockfall or something?
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alexmac
Apr 18, 2007, 2:53 PM
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scrapedape wrote: alexmac wrote: scrapedape wrote: Yeah, yeah, I know the locals are going to get their panties in a bunch about this, but here's the truth: there are just no routes there in the easy to moderate range that offer the kind of wild exposure that I crave. And that is sad indeed! Wow, why not ask for limestone at a granite site, easy and wild exposure, try a bar . Your posts have lately deteriorated from ignorant to incoherent. Did you end up on the wrong end of some rockfall or something?
Dude, not my problem, yours. I am not looking for a 5.1 with "wild explosure" to go climb. What your asking for is similar to expecting George Bush to have a brain.
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scrapedape
Apr 18, 2007, 3:01 PM
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Read what you wrote again. Tell me WTF it means. Try using standard English this time.
Are you trying to rile me up by insulting Bush? That would be funny!
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alexmac
Apr 18, 2007, 3:04 PM
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scrapedape wrote: Read what you wrote again. Tell me WTF it means. Try using standard English this time. Are you trying to rile me up by insulting Bush? That would be funny!
Gezz, its pretty, simple your a ASS asking for thrills and excitement for no cost in work, so I was making a reference to something equally impossible. Being at a climb where its one time of stone and wanting that stone to transform to some other type of stone.
Do you want me to draw it in crayon for you ?
Saying Squamish sucks for the reasons you have given, is like saying Squamish sucks cause its not top roped.
Alex
(This post was edited by alexmac on Apr 18, 2007, 3:05 PM)
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scrapedape
Apr 18, 2007, 4:52 PM
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alexmac wrote: scrapedape wrote: Read what you wrote again. Tell me WTF it means. Try using standard English this time. Are you trying to rile me up by insulting Bush? That would be funny! Gezz, its pretty, simple your a ASS asking for thrills and excitement for no cost in work, so I was making a reference to something equally impossible. Being at a climb where its one time of stone and wanting that stone to transform to some other type of stone. Do you want me to draw it in crayon for you ? Saying Squamish sucks for the reasons you have given, is like saying Squamish sucks cause its not top roped. Alex
I love that I can make a post saying in effect, "Sorry I had to make an inflammatory post, but it's the only way I could get people to reply. I don't really mean what I wrote." Yet people still get worked up to the point of being unable to write a coherent sentence.
So, did you not bother reading through the thread before you replied, or is your reading comprehension just so bad that you completely missed my point?
(This post was edited by scrapedape on Apr 18, 2007, 4:53 PM)
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scrapedape
Apr 30, 2007, 4:43 PM
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Just got back from my trip to Vancouver and Squamish.
Wednesday - showers turned to rain. Hiked up to the base of Deidre in the wet. Got lunch and the rain stopped. Headed to Burgers & Fries, arrving just as the rain resumed. Climbed a couple of routes inthe rain. Slipped off a finger crack in the wet and sliced my fingers up.
Thursday - Rain. Drove up to Pemberton and down the Lillooet River.
Friday - Rain. Hiked up the Chief. Went to Vancouver and watched the Canucks game.
Saturday - Sunday - Gorgeous weather. Sunny and warm. Previously planned fishing trip, pissup, and general stag party debauchery. No climbing.
So all in all, not a lot of climbing, but lots of scoping of lines for future trips. I still can't say whether the climbing in Squamish is any good though.
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alpie
Apr 30, 2007, 5:01 PM
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I'm a moderate trad climber - and instead of saying such places suck - I admire top end routes - and top end climbers - props to those the send em....
Quit Bitchin'
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srwings
Apr 30, 2007, 5:25 PM
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scrapedape wrote: All right, thanks for the responses! I'll level with you all. I originally started this thread with the title "Squamish - Easy climbs with good exposure" and basically asked a straightforward question. No one batted an eye. It got a couple of replies, but then nothing. So after a day I figured maybe I had to spice things up to elicit some more responses... seems it worked. Though I now see that maybe there really aren't too many easy, exposed routes. Thanks for the suggestions that were offered though, and we'll try to hit them up when we're out there next week. And I'll reserve judgement on whether Squamish really sucks until after I get back.
Well done. I wish I had thought of this for some of my info posts. Maybe I'll just include 'sucks' in all future subject lines.
Now might be a good time to add a caveat to your original post unless you are still trying to provoke reactions. Just a thought.
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lovesclimbing
May 4, 2007, 12:23 AM
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I just prefer Limestone to granit, I still do the odd trip to squamish but its not my frist choice.
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pasekmi
Jul 17, 2007, 7:40 PM
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Hey rockhead - your spelling is horrible.
pussy's should be spelled pussys
Your should be spelled You're
a few more.
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gramps
Jul 17, 2007, 8:44 PM
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I just had my first trip out to Squamish, and it was climbing paradise for me. We had good weather, Fantastic rock and pro. There's plenty of vertical, exposed, moderate stuff of the single pitch variety. Granite doesn't normally lend itself to steep, moderate, multipitch though. Gotta climb harder for that.
There's plenty of exposure if you can bump up the difficulty a little, until then stick to Red Rocks or something similar if that's what you care about.
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Climberguy88
Aug 7, 2007, 10:50 PM
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Learn how to climb, then try to tell me squamish sucks
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glytch
Aug 7, 2007, 11:15 PM
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In reply to: Thanks for the suggestions that were offered though, and we'll try to hit them up when we're out there next week. And I'll reserve judgement on whether Squamish really sucks until after I get back.
Hilarious. Well played.
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porkchop_express
May 8, 2008, 3:11 AM
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There's nothing inherently simplistic about the Gunks. Or bouldering for that matter. I wouldn't know if Squamish sucks or not because I've never been there, but I will be going in the summer because I'd like to find out. I don't expect it to suck or I wouldn't be driving thousands of miles to get there... Just wondering, how much time have you spent "hiking up" various climbs at the Gunks?
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pentapitch
May 8, 2008, 3:35 AM
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1. until you lead EVERY pitch on the GRAND WALL cleanly, shut the F up
2. rain in squamish, gosh, how unsettling and surprising. every other 50 square acres in the Pacific Northwest is a garden of perfect climbing weather.
(This post was edited by pentapitch on May 8, 2008, 3:36 AM)
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salamanizer
May 8, 2008, 5:40 AM
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pentapitch wrote: 1. until you lead EVERY pitch on the GRAND WALL cleanly, shut the F up 2. rain in squamish, gosh, how unsettling and surprising. every other 50 square acres in the Pacific Northwest is a garden of perfect climbing weather.
Pffft! Punter.
1) obviously you havn't bee following the year long conversation.
2) What???
No one's dissing Squamish here...
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