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mottaaa
Jun 7, 2007, 10:51 PM
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if you stick to staight forward climbs that are within your ability, placing gear is not that difficult. the
john long series illustrates it well. one thing i learned, and always keep in mind, is the first rule of safety is common sense.
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mottaaa
Jun 7, 2007, 10:55 PM
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my bad, it was an impulse post. as to the screen name, just the title to an offspring tune. apologies
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quiteatingmysteak
Jun 7, 2007, 10:59 PM
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Glad to see this wasn't another gymbie article! First fall from p3? dayamn @_@ well deserved my mang.
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boymeetsrock
Jun 7, 2007, 10:59 PM
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LOL. All in good fun there smokey. 
From one n00b to another, welcom to RC.
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thelockdude
Jun 8, 2007, 1:34 AM
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drfelatio wrote: ...You mean you weren't constantly bombarded with "STFU NoOb!!" and "Do a f**kin' search next time, noobtard!!".
LOL! Nah, nobody's ever really dissed me. Well, maybe they have, I don't remember...I just ignore posts like that. I've usually gotten thoughtful and thorough responses to my questions. And I DO read a lot of older threads before I ask questions.
drfelatio wrote: In all seriousness though (and to get back on-topic) congrats on the fall.
Thanks!
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thelockdude
Jun 8, 2007, 1:55 AM
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quiteatingmysteak wrote: Glad to see this wasn't another gymbie article! First fall from p3? dayamn @_@ well deserved my mang.
Hehehe, thanks. I've only climbed in a gym about 3 or 4 times. Last year I evolved from top roping to trad. I'm not really interested in sport or bouldering. Though I AM interested in doing some aid climbing...
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tradrenn
Jun 8, 2007, 2:12 AM
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zionvier wrote: ja1484 wrote: People should be required to climb trad for two years competently under the supervision of a properly skilled mentor before being turned loose on their style of choice, just for the good of the community in general. I'd be glad to stop climbing sport every time if there were a grab bag of trad mentors out there to show me proper placements. Unfortunately it's just not that easy... Anyone in the Denver area looking for a pupil?
I'm free as of August 1 2008 if you wanna go.
(I'm dead serious)
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ja1484
Jun 8, 2007, 2:17 AM
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Disclaimer: Trad is my favorite of all the climbing types I do.
That said, don't ignore sport. Though the pure "sport ethos" is at times juvenile and annoying, there's something to be said for shorter, harder climbs where you don't have to worry about protection.
They're good training - much like extended bouldering. A good mix of bouldering, sport, and trad will get you better rounded and improve your skills considerably over specializing.
I can't speak to aid and ice - haven't really done enough of either to speak with any kind of substantive knowledge on the subjects, but they are planned for the future.
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thelockdude
Jun 8, 2007, 3:30 AM
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ja1484 wrote: ...That said, don't ignore sport...A good mix of bouldering, sport, and trad will get you better rounded and improve your skills considerably over specializing...
I'm sure that's true. So far, almost all my climbing has been in the gunks. as far as i know there are no sport routes there. maybe i'll try some sport climbing if i ever get to visit a place where there are some. there's definitely bouldering in the gunks, but i'm getting kinda addicted to the height element involved with multi-pitch climbing. bouldering doesn't look like much fun to me, though to improve my skills, i may just venture into that a bit too.
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granite_grrl
Jun 8, 2007, 1:56 PM
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thelockdude wrote: ja1484 wrote: ...That said, don't ignore sport...A good mix of bouldering, sport, and trad will get you better rounded and improve your skills considerably over specializing... I'm sure that's true. So far, almost all my climbing has been in the gunks. as far as i know there are no sport routes there. maybe i'll try some sport climbing if i ever get to visit a place where there are some. there's definitely bouldering in the gunks, but i'm getting kinda addicted to the height element involved with multi-pitch climbing. bouldering doesn't look like much fun to me, though to improve my skills, i may just venture into that a bit too.
Lots of different palces to visit in New England in driving distance. Just pick an area, pack your car and go.
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dan4geng
Jun 8, 2007, 9:18 PM
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Short description of you: your 5'3", your name is Dan, and you climb at the Gunks
Short description of me: I'm 5'3", my name is Dan, and I climb at the Gunks
long lost twin? Evil twin?
Anywho... I've been trying to get to the gunks every weekend. If your looking for a partner any weekend hit me up.
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thelockdude
Jun 8, 2007, 11:14 PM
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dan4geng wrote: Short description of you: your 5'3", your name is Dan, and you climb at the Gunks Short description of me: I'm 5'3", my name is Dan, and I climb at the Gunks long lost twin? Evil twin? Anywho... I've been trying to get to the gunks every weekend. If your looking for a partner any weekend hit me up.
Haha!
I'm going tomorrow, actually. I looked at your profile - you're climbing 11's and such - that's quite a bit above my ability - are you willing to downgrade for a newbie? do you lead at all? tell you what, call me if you get this in time, if we have enough in common, we'll climb together tomorrow (if you're free). 631-981-2658.
Dan
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sanfranpunk
Jun 10, 2007, 11:24 PM
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my first lead fall was on a #4 camalot in indian creek and it was about a 3 foot fall it was crappy and awesome(i also took my 2-8 falls the same time) the crappy part was i had to aid the rest of the route.
it was pussy wus crack 5.10+ for anyone wondering
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jpdreamer
Jun 11, 2007, 7:14 AM
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Cool, glad your first fall was mellow. Sofar I've only taken one trad lead fall on a slick lieback at Bridge Buttress in NRG (and that was... 3 years ago) and actually the last time I weighted a piece that wasn't an anchor was 2 years ago.
Haha, well having fun is most important, and sounds like you're having it!
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ja1484
Jun 17, 2007, 3:11 AM
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alexmac wrote: ja1484 wrote: People should be required to climb trad for two years competently under the supervision of a properly skilled mentor before being turned loose on their style of choice, just for the good of the community in general. hear hear, perhaps we should make eveyone look after kids for two years before having sex too.
Actually, that's a really good idea.
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amylovesred
Jun 26, 2007, 9:19 PM
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BUT who wants to trust their kids to parenting n00bs?
(This post was edited by amylovesred on Jun 26, 2007, 9:19 PM)
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donald949
Jun 27, 2007, 5:48 PM
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Regarding trusting kids to parenting Noobs. That would be me, and a lot of other people we know. We use two 13 year old girls to watch our herd of cats every chance we get. For a nice quite evening having dinner or going to a movie.
Don
Edit for non parents: Herd of cats = 5yo and 3 yo boys, and 7 month old girl for me.
(This post was edited by donald949 on Jun 27, 2007, 5:51 PM)
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climbxclimb
Jun 27, 2007, 6:04 PM
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Well...I had my first lead fall about a month ago...
I was on my second Aid lead, possibly A2+, in the Adirondacks after 3 hooks moves I was on a forth hook move, I was hooking a flake, I bounce tested the placement, I stepped on it with my first foot and than with the second and all the sudden I was airborne....the flake blew...and dropped about 3 feet from my belayer, whom I lifted a few feet from the ground...No consequences at all for both of us, a C4 .75 far below caught me, I think a fell about 15ft...
Funny think about this...last year I belayed the fall of my belayer at the Gunks, who got caught by the same size of cam..C4 .75.
After this fall I feel much better about falling on gear..and I am climbing better.
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zeke_sf
Jun 30, 2007, 4:17 PM
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amylovesred wrote: BUT who wants to trust their kids to parenting n00bs?
Very horny parenting n00bs at that. Plus, you probably don't want people associating kids with sex (other than conception).
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evanwish
Sep 15, 2007, 8:20 PM
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it's accutally kina ironic. i was the first one to reply to this one about my fall.
2 months ago i took a 60' trad fall and broke my
leg/ankle/foot.
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thelockdude
Sep 16, 2007, 2:18 PM
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evanwish wrote: it's accutally kina ironic. i was the first one to reply to this one about my fall. 2 months ago i took a 60' trad fall and broke my leg/ankle/foot.
OMG! That sucks evanwish! How are you healing up? That was 2 months ago, why didn't you post sooner?
Anyway, I hardly climbed at all, all summer. I have had my attention exclusively on passing my black belt test (which I did just last Tuesday). But now that that's behind me, I'm going to be climbing a lot more this fall. And hopefully without any falls.
Would you mind sharing the details of your fall?
Tinker (Dan)
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flatlanderAB
Oct 9, 2008, 11:59 PM
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My first lead fall was on pitch four of a multi pitch sport climb. I should have run it out instead of stopping to clip the bolt that was obviously put there by someone who was a little challenged in the height department. I had to clip the damn thing at my knees and when i did off the face i went without clipping the stupid thing. The catch was less than spectacular due to the fact that the next bolt was three feet above a section of slab. my heals caught on the slab and i ended up on my ass with my helmet against the rock.
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krosbakken
Oct 10, 2008, 12:41 AM
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flatlanderAB wrote: My first lead fall was on pitch four of a multi pitch sport climb. I should have run it out instead of stopping to clip the bolt that was obviously put there by someone who was a little challenged in the height department. I had to clip the damn thing at my knees and when i did off the face i went without clipping the stupid thing. The catch was less than spectacular due to the fact that the next bolt was three feet above a section of slab. my heals caught on the slab and i ended up on my ass with my helmet against the rock.
ohh thats rough man. glad to hear you didn't get hurt.
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Tipton
Oct 10, 2008, 3:01 AM
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My first real lead fall was on a 5.10b trad route (Summit Attempt, Bee Rock TN). I had the climb linked on top rope and immediately started leading it. I ran out the headwall under the impression that it was in my best interests to focus on the climbing and get it over with. The end result was me whipping onto the only bolt on the pitch, 15 feet above the ledge that sits above the headwall. Unfortunately for me, I was about 15 above the bolt. The outcome was me coming to a halt on the ledge. The rope took the momentum out of my fall, but I still decked.
What pissed me off the most was that I knew the risk, took it, and still screwed up.
That same day, I popped one foot on a 5.8 slab climb that I was goofing off on. I ended up sliding 20 feet of the face on my ass and landing on my feet at the bottom. Before you ask, there was no protection so 20 feet was pretty good considering the options.
Oh well, after that one day I figured I can't really take any worse falls without killing myself so I'm not too worried about whipping anymore.
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