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tigerlilly
Aug 8, 2007, 1:45 AM
Post #26 of 29
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Registered: Nov 2, 2006
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aerili wrote: Boo, I ordered the Mad Rock Banshees and Lady Scarpa Thunders to compare. I received them both yesterday. I sized the Thunders based on my Eclipses...but they don't fit the same at all. To be honest, the shoe is a little wide for my foot, but it does seem comfortable. I think they are definitely TOO BIG, however, so I was wondering how much they stretch? (They appear to be natural leather.) This will help me reorder a better-fitting size, but I need to make sure they will stretch a bit so they also fit in the width. Thanks girl!
Are you talking about the Thunders? Any beta on the Banshees?
I picked up a pair of LaSportiva Takas on sale, and they are narrow enough, but boy, are they stiff. Not sure I'll like them in the long run. I'm still trying to break them in. I wanted a little stiff because I'm finding that my old feet need support on long climbs. Might have gone overboard.
Kathy
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aerili
Aug 8, 2007, 5:01 PM
Post #27 of 29
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Registered: Jan 13, 2006
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The Banshees were indeed narrow and fit quite well. I did find them preferable to men's version; clearly, a woman's last DOES make a difference. But I found the cut around the ankle bones to still be a bit high for a woman's foot and not as comfortable as the cut on the Mythos, although completely wearable. (Of course, other women's feet and ankles may conform differently.)
I haven't climbed in the Scarpas yet, unfortunately. I am not sure what to do about them, actually... I had to order them from MountainGear and MG doesn't allow returns of used products. Sooooo, if I can't climb in them and see how they perform, I'm hesitant to keep them. They were a bit wide for my foot but I found them pretty comfortable and easier to lace than the Mythos or Banshees. As boo also said, I liked the light color and perforated holes for breathability. Only other drawback was length-to-wide characteristics...I found 1 size down from my street shoe was best for width, but 1/2 size down from my street shoe was best for length/comfort. This is a bit of a problem.
Strangely, I also purchased the evolv Elektras (thinking they could be a second pair of sport shoes). I found they suck for sport--they are soft and don't seem to edge worth a darn (Athenas are much better), but I tried crack climbing in them and they are really the bomb diggity! Because they are soft, they jam comfortably in cracks of all sizes and seem to friction well into/against tiny fingertip cracks and seams. They don't do high performance smearing quite as well as the Mythos but I find them a great complement to those shoes for most climbing!
Support-wise, well the Elektras are soft, and the longest route I climbed in them was 4 pitches, but I do like the fact you can un-Velcro them quickly on belays and they do seem to have a little more support than the Mythos (can't totally remember... will give you an update when I climb longer routes in them). They conform to my narrow foot well, too (I sized them down by 1/2, but evolvs don't stretch). I felt they would perform better in various trad terrains compared to the Banshees, but I can't say this for sure since I didn't break the Banshees in really well or bang up the blocky toe in cracks.
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tigerlilly
Aug 8, 2007, 5:47 PM
Post #28 of 29
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Registered: Nov 2, 2006
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Thanks for the beta. I've tried on the Thunders and Electras, and both are too wide. Plus, my Morton's-Toe feet hate asym toes, which was another strike against the Electras. If my Takas turn out to be too stiff, I'll try the Banshees. I may be near a store in a couple weeks that stocks them so I can try them on. I need something comfy to back up my Phoenixes when they finally go out for resole.
I have a pair of wmn's Mythos, and I like them well enough in the gym, but they don't give me enough support for long climbs with thin edges. My feet hurt to the point of distraction. Plus, if they stretch any more in width, I won't be able to lace them tight enough.
Good luck with the Thunders. That's a tough decision. If they're already a bit wide, will they be too wide if they stretch at all? If so, probably best to send them back before you wear them. Otherwise, there's always the classifieds/Ebay.
Kathy
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aerili
Aug 8, 2007, 11:20 PM
Post #29 of 29
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Registered: Jan 13, 2006
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The Banshees are symmetrical and more narrow than the Thunders or Elektras. Also seemed more supportive than the Mythos (if I recall correctly...).
boo mentioned the Thunders do not really stretch, so hence my further hesitation to climb in them and proceed to make them unreturnable.
backcountry.com had the Banshees on sale for $67 when I ordered mine. Check it out. Try sizing 1/2 down, or buy two different sizes and see which fits better, then return the one you don't want.
I don't have Morton's toe but my foot is darn close to being symmetrical in shape, so I understand your pain. For some reason evolv's asymmetrical cuts don't hurt me the way other manufacturers' do.
evolv does make a shoe for feet like yours: it's called the DeMorto, but it's a men's shoe and I don't know how narrow it runs.
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