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majid_sabet
Jun 14, 2007, 7:35 PM
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Seriously, what if you were n00b in the old days with no internet to ask all these technical climbing questions ?
Now you click on that youtube and there it is in front of you,
How to do big wall in two days
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jun 14, 2007, 7:36 PM)
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microbarn
Jun 14, 2007, 7:43 PM
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obviously they all died because they didn't have the ability to read your insightful posts
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moose_droppings
Jun 14, 2007, 8:11 PM
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Two days. Thats definitely a push for me.
Think I'd rather haul and bivy for a week.
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krosbakken
Jun 14, 2007, 8:33 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: Seriously, what if you were n00b in the old days with no internet to ask all these technical climbing questions ? Now you click on that youtube and there it is in front of you, How to do big wall in two days
Books
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sky7high
Jun 14, 2007, 8:33 PM
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well, i'm guessing that had something to do with:
a) The view of climbing as an "underground" sport
b) The climbers' daredevil reputation
c) Deaths, and lots of 'em (seriously, at the crags, all of the crosses and plates "in memory of" are from the 60's, 70's or 80's)
d) a very tight-knitted and closed climbing comunity
e) no bloody n00bs at the crags with their trash and stuff.
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j_ung
Jun 14, 2007, 8:35 PM
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Trial and error.
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binrat
Jun 14, 2007, 8:48 PM
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j_ung wrote: Trial and error.
But sometimes error and error
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majid_sabet
Jun 14, 2007, 8:55 PM
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sky7high wrote: well, i'm guessing that had something to do with: a) The view of climbing as an "underground" sport b) The climbers' daredevil reputation c) Deaths, and lots of 'em (seriously, at the crags, all of the crosses and plates "in memory of" are from the 60's, 70's or 80's) d) a very tight-knitted and closed climbing comunity e) no bloody n00bs at the crags with their trash and stuff.
In reply to: "underground" sport
Back in 70s were I learned the core of my mountaineering skill , my masters were extremely careful and they did not want just any body to plug in to their knowledge. Climbing was not climbing for them, Climbing was all about rapid movement in short notice and total survival.
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jun 14, 2007, 8:57 PM)
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eastvillage
Jun 14, 2007, 8:57 PM
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You went to cliffs and climbed and practiced and became part of the community and gradually learned how to climb.
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saxfiend
Jun 14, 2007, 8:58 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: Seriously, what if you were n00b in the old days
JL
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majid_sabet
Jun 14, 2007, 9:02 PM
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saxfiend wrote: majid_sabet wrote: Seriously, what if you were n00b in the old days You would still have been told to STFU. Just not on the internet. JL
You are right, except you will ended up with big bloody nose.
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eastvillage
Jun 14, 2007, 9:04 PM
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In those days there was no such thing as a n00b. You were an aspirant who eagerly paid his dues in order to learn the craft of climbing.
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majid_sabet
Jun 14, 2007, 9:07 PM
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eastvillage wrote: In those days there was no such thing as a n00b. You were an aspirant who eagerly paid his dues in order to learn the craft of climbing.
Lets talk about some of these DUES
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sbaclimber
Jun 14, 2007, 9:13 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: eastvillage wrote: In those days there was no such thing as a n00b. You were an aspirant who eagerly paid his dues in order to learn the craft of climbing. Lets talk about some of these DUES 
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marc801
Jun 14, 2007, 9:39 PM
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eastvillage wrote: In those days there was no such thing as a n00b. You were an aspirant who eagerly paid his dues in order to learn the craft of climbing.
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sky7high
Jun 15, 2007, 12:51 AM
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majid_sabet wrote: sky7high wrote: well, i'm guessing that had something to do with: a) The view of climbing as an "underground" sport b) The climbers' daredevil reputation c) Deaths, and lots of 'em (seriously, at the crags, all of the crosses and plates "in memory of" are from the 60's, 70's or 80's) d) a very tight-knitted and closed climbing comunity e) no bloody n00bs at the crags with their trash and stuff. In reply to: "underground" sport Back in 70s were I learned the core of my mountaineering skill , my masters were extremely careful and they did not want just any body to plug in to their knowledge. Climbing was not climbing for them, Climbing was all about rapid movement in short notice and total survival.
you have a nice point there, next time I'm with my mentor, I'll ask him bout this (he's like 50 y/o and has been climbing for at least 30)
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mikitta
Jun 15, 2007, 1:20 AM
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I started in the '80's, just before the explosion of sport climbing. In fact, I had been climbing about 2 years when Skinner and Piana free'd the Salthe Wall and thrust the sport into the atmosphere. Ron Kauk wasn't even heard of yet outside his own small circle.
I learned the craft from a grizzled old guy by the name of John Walker, who taught P.E. classes at the University of Wyoming. Learned how to body belay, how to tie knots, tie in with a bowline on a coil and a gold line rope, how to not focus on how spiffy the shiney gear was, or to worry about the sticky shoes, or take the rock for granted.
I learned that the number one biggest tool you have out on the rock rests squarely between your ears. Without that one tool in top condition, you are screwed.
Men like Johnny Walker and Larry Higby and Royal Robbins - they climbed in hob nail things we wouldn't think of attempting in anything but stealth rubber. They never saw a caming device and climbed cracks and offwidths and chimneys that would make some of the younger sports climbers today cry. They created their own protection using 2x4's and pipes slung with extra peices of rope. They innovated everything we take for granted. People like Herb and Jan Conn pioneerd scary, run out leads in the Black Hills Needles with 50 foot ropes and they did it because they loved the rock.
Climbers were a different breed 30, 40 and 50 years ago. They didn't have to brag about what they sent. They didn't argue about what gear was prime. They certainly didn't consider taking a whipper as any kind of therapy. Some of them died in pursuit of their passion. But for them, it WAS a passion, not a pass time.
We need more climbers with that mindset now. That spirit should be kept alive.
They accepted the risks of the wild rock, yet they climbed. If we can't accept the risks, can we even consider ourselves climbers? Or are we mere ascensionists with no soul left?
God Bless,
mik
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olderic
Jun 15, 2007, 1:30 AM
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It was actually an advantage to us NOT to have the Internet. The information we found in written form was accurate. Every Tom, Dick and Harry who has climbed for a year or two wasn't spraying advice far and wide. There was no vast audience of even less experienced n00bs to fixate on their every word. Talking directly to people it was usually pretty easy to tell who had cred and who was full of it. If information was written well then that took enough effort so that it was usually correct.
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dingus
Jun 15, 2007, 2:25 AM
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It was uphill in all directions cause we lived in a Hell Hole.
But you know where you stand in a Hell Hole.
DMT
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jt512
Jun 15, 2007, 3:31 AM
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olderic wrote: It was actually an advantage to us NOT to have the Internet.
Well, not really. It would have been nice to have the internet then, too. The problem with the internet isn't it's existence, but it's misuse. Climbers who use the internet intelligently -- to supplement knowledge gained from more reliable resources -- have an advantage over climbers of decades past. For instance, how long would it have taken the systematic QA problem at CCH to have come to light prior to the internet? On the other hand, climbers who attempt to substitute information from the internet for more reliable sources are likely to get into trouble at the crags. Just look at the idiotic questions posted in the Beginners forum, and the even more idiotic responses.
Jay
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fracture
Jun 15, 2007, 3:58 AM
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jt512 wrote: The problem with the internet isn't it's existence, but it's misuse.
The Other GriGri.
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jt512
Jun 15, 2007, 4:13 AM
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fracture wrote: jt512 wrote: The problem with the internet isn't it's existence, but it's misuse. The Other GriGri.
Fuck. I can't believe I put apostrophes in "its" twice in one sentence.
Jay
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curt
Jun 15, 2007, 4:48 AM
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jt512 wrote: fracture wrote: jt512 wrote: The problem with the internet isn't it's existence, but it's misuse. The Other GriGri. Fuck. I can't believe I put apostrophes in "its" twice in one sentence. Jay
Well, its good that you caught you're own error.
Curt
(This post was edited by curt on Jun 15, 2007, 4:50 AM)
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collegekid
Jun 15, 2007, 4:54 AM
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majid_sabet wrote: Seriously, what if you were n00b in the old days with no internet to ask all these technical climbing questions ? Now you click on that youtube and there it is in front of you, How to do big wall in two days
How did Newton and Leibniz perform calculus when calculus didn't exist yet?
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shanz
Jun 15, 2007, 5:02 AM
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Post reminded me of something dont remember whether i read this or heard the story about this nasty offwidth near where i live.(it didnt look like fun - thinking a 10 or 11 but not sure) Story goes something like this. The dude leading this offwidth brought a tape measure and measured the width while his belayer was sawing 2x4's to fit as pro. Now that old school
(This post was edited by shanz on Jun 15, 2007, 11:04 AM)
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