Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention:
Post deleted by cgalitsky
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Injury Treatment and Prevention

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 3 Next page Last page  View All


Partner cracklover


Jul 29, 2007, 6:00 PM
Post #51 of 53 (731 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10161

Re: [microbarn] fall at seneca rocks Triple S - advice? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

microbarn wrote:
cracklover wrote:
2 - I don't care how many people here say they give their cams a good hard tug. This tells you *almost nothing* about whether the cam will hold a fall. The only way to tell is by bouncing on the piece or testing it with a funkness device. And if you're sitting on it, and looking at a 20' fall if it blows, well obviously that's not a good time to test it!

I understand your position that a tug won't tell you everything about your placement. I am not arguing that. However, are you implying that a tug is a waste of time? Wouldn't you rather tug and know something before you weight a piece?

Yes, most of time, a tug is absolutely a waste of time. Give me any cam on your rack, and I can place it in a crack in five minutes where you cannot tug it out, but I can bounce it out in my aiders. The amount of force you can put on the cam by pulling on it by hand is miniscule compared to what it sees in a real fall, or even compared to a little over bodyweight (especially from a shifting body).

GO


dalguard


Jul 29, 2007, 6:34 PM
Post #52 of 53 (712 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2003
Posts: 239

Re: [tradmanclimbs] fall at seneca rocks Triple S - advice? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

But how do you place a #3 (a #3 for heaven's sake, not a black Alien), intentionally sit on it without having a backup close enough to keep you from getting hurt, have it pull, and not even know why? I'm not trying to be harsh. I've placed a lot of crap gear in my life. But to place a #3 that's crap enough to pull from body weight and not even have suspected it might be bad, I just don't know. Back to gear school, I think.

That's not meant to be mean. It's meant to save someone's life. We all place bad gear. If you've climbed long enough you've had a piece pull, even one you didn't think would pull. But a #3 that you didn't think would pull failing from body weight? No.


kmc


Aug 1, 2007, 9:40 AM
Post #53 of 53 (621 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 24, 2006
Posts: 252

Re: [dalguard] fall at seneca rocks Triple S - advice? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm with you Dalguard. I know what I said earlier came across as mean, but I do hope that the OP heals quickly from this fall.
Everyone places bad gear, (myself included, I never said I was perfect) but when you place a #3 and have it pull and dont know why, then you may want to reconsider things. I have been on this route, and remember it being well protected. It certainly was stout for the .8+ rating it gets, but the gear is certainly there. There is definetly enough gear to be found that you should be able to get gear close enough so if one does pull than you will have somehting else to save your ass.

Again, to the OP, hope you heal quickly.

~Kevin

First page Previous page 1 2 3 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Information : Injury Treatment and Prevention

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook