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altelis
Nov 2, 2007, 3:25 PM
Post #51 of 53
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 2168
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right, but i'm saying too that a good anchor, slightly above the direction of the traverse (again, always assuming the traversing section ends at the anchor) and that the anchor is in a vertical crack(s) i think you should be fine belaying off the anchor. especially if you're anchor is made of nuts. i think that the strength of the anchor isn't compromised with good cam placements in this setup (vertical crack with placements slightly above the end of the traverse) you just then might have to deal with the annoying slightly bent stems if the fall is hard or they are sitting on the anchor for a while.
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brutusofwyde
Nov 10, 2007, 12:56 AM
Post #52 of 53
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
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What I'm concerned about is that no one has mentioned that the pieces protecting the traverse must be solid for the leader fall as well as solid for a fall of the second. The direction of loading in a leader fall (back toward the start of the traverse) is 90 degrees from the direction of loading in the fall of the second (loading is forward toward the end of the traverse.)
As for the belay, make sure it is bombproof.
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 11, 2007, 3:51 AM
Post #53 of 53
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
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brutusofwyde wrote: What I'm concerned about is that no one has mentioned that the pieces protecting the traverse must be solid for the leader fall as well as solid for a fall of the second. The direction of loading in a leader fall (back toward the start of the traverse) is 90 degrees from the direction of loading in the fall of the second (loading is forward toward the end of the traverse.) As for the belay, make sure it is bombproof.
We weren't really talking about the pieces protecting the traverse. That is another discussion. I was mainly focussing on the anchor. As for the traverse, yes pieces need to be mulitdirectional up to 180 degrees. THe leader and follower falls will be in the opposite direction. In a straight horizontal crack I like cams or nuts that can be slotted so that they can not be pulled free to either side.
THanks for the input.
Josh
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