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jakedatc
Oct 17, 2007, 1:26 AM
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/name drop anvil My friend Vasya threw down his year + long project at Rumney the other day. All of us that had seen him working it the past year and over the summer knew it was a matter of WHEN not IF... just needed the temps to drop. The route kicks ass and has some crazy moves on it
"Vasya Vorotnikov has re-redpointed Jaws at Rumney, New Hampshire, after several key holds broke, giving it a new name and a whopping big grade: 5.15a. Vorotnikov spent about 35 days over a year and a half working on Jaws II (or Broken Jaws—Vorotnikov hasn’t settled on a new name).
First climbed by Dave Graham in the late 1990s, Jaws takes on Rumney’s sweeping Waimea Wall, left of China Beach and Livin’ Astro. It originally was given 5.14b, but Graham later suggested it might be harder.
Then, Vorotnikov said, “someone broke a hold off the top, making a second crux (former V8) more like a V11ish, low-percentage move. Then someone else started trying it and broke holds off the first crux (former V10), making it V12/V13ish. So, basically, the two hard boulder problems are what make this thing hard. And it's fairly long—not the Euro-endurance stuff, but the American power-endurance fest.........” "
http://www.climbing.com/...lashes/rumneyjaws07/
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joeforte
Oct 17, 2007, 1:49 AM
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Whats up with all the holds breaking off this route? Is it fragile rock? Is all rock fragile to a 5.15 climbers grip?
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blueeyedclimber
Oct 17, 2007, 1:55 AM
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Vasya is stating that the "9a+" grade is an invitation for the strongest climbers....well in that case, I'll see you up there. I've been looking for a new proj.
Josh
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jakedatc
Oct 17, 2007, 2:00 AM
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well.. Shist isn't super hard... This particular route i don't know what exactly has broken off.. I also don't know how far apart the breaks were.
vasya didn't break any of the holds... he's a scrawny little guy
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bent_gate
Oct 17, 2007, 2:33 AM
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It's another factor that makes Rumney ideal for a sport crag. Almost all single pitch rock that is often too fragile for good trad protection.
The rest of the state's super hard multi-pitch granite is where the best trad is.
Sport may be the only climbing where people actually change the grades on things after they break and get harder. Try doing that in a Trad area. The whole side of the mountain can collapse and people will moan if you try to change the grade! 
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jakedatc
Oct 17, 2007, 3:04 AM
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Yea but think about it... in a few years you can claim to send 5.hard trad lines by doing a casual rock scramble up Cannon ;) "well.. it used to be here!"
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caughtinside
Oct 17, 2007, 4:41 AM
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That is really cool.
But very silly that broken holds mean a new name. Probably half the hard sport climbs out there have seen broken holds.
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jakedatc
Oct 17, 2007, 4:53 AM
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Well.. for one he's not really changing it much. 2 it's been at project status for quite a while. I've heard that Graham has been back to it and failed so it's freaking burly. It looks like someone was taking pics.. video would be cool.
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chossmonkey
Oct 18, 2007, 12:47 AM
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caughtinside wrote: Well, I kind of feel that if the line was sent, it was sent and that's it. holds break, that's life.
Yeah, that's pretty much how it is unless half the cliff falls down exposing new rock. Holds break all the time.
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Gmburns2000
Oct 18, 2007, 1:54 AM
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chossmonkey wrote: caughtinside wrote: Well, I kind of feel that if the line was sent, it was sent and that's it. holds break, that's life. Yeah, that's pretty much how it is unless half the cliff falls down exposing new rock. Holds break all the time.
Glad to see he's pulling stuff like this. Is Zeb next in line, OldEric (if you're reading)? Can he get up this kind of stuff? It'd be nice to have some local rivalry with these two keeping the NE royalty in line after Graham and Parady (I know, Vaysa's adopted, but that's OK).
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jakedatc
Oct 18, 2007, 2:11 AM
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I think Zeb was close-ish when they were working on it before.. but he's out of the country at the moment for school i think so i dunno when he'll be back on it. He's sent almost every other .14 at rumney so it's a matter of applying it to that route. Good news is that Ty Landman's brother is in the area now and has been pulling down hard at Lincoln woods and hopefully other places as well. Also Mike Foley just sent Livin' Astro and has potential for more.. Brian Kim is a strong kid too. Vasya get's challenged by a ton of folks at the indoor comps and trains hard for that too. NE has a good mix of strong folks
vasya's adopted huh? i think you're confused (or i don't know what you mean)
Choss and CI you can send vasya a PM on Newenglandbouldering.com SN : Vasya if you want to ask him why he changed it *slightly* (you sure are picky about a tiny change)
(This post was edited by jakedatc on Oct 18, 2007, 2:12 AM)
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jakedatc
Oct 19, 2007, 2:17 AM
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From the man himself
In reply to: Yeah, I proly should have thought a bit about this whole naming business, but I just added a II at the end, just to sort of distinguish it from the previously done route.
I don't think it's a very big deal.. it's still Jaws... it'll still probably be known as Jaws in conversation.. Go send the project line next to it that might be as hard and you can name that whatever you want ;)
routes of that difficulty to even be considered .15 are rare.. i'm just psyched a) he sent since i've seen the effort he's put into it. b) that it's up this way so maybe it'll bring some of the big guys back.. though i did see Kehl up this spring
oh yea.. the video by Tim Kemple Jr will be up on http://www.momentumvm.com/?si=1
(This post was edited by jakedatc on Oct 19, 2007, 2:21 AM)
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microbarn
Oct 19, 2007, 6:19 PM
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but I wanna see my climbing porn noooooooooooooooooowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww
:)
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olderic
Oct 22, 2007, 7:18 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: Glad to see he's pulling stuff like this. Is Zeb next in line, OldEric (if you're reading)? Can he get up this kind of stuff? It'd be nice to have some local rivalry with these two keeping the NE royalty in line after Graham and Parady (I know, Vaysa's adopted, but that's OK).
I think Jake meant that Vasya is adopted by New England. I wonder how his parents are doing - they should be home from Nepal by now I think.
Zebby is indeed out of the country - in Budapest this semester. I think math has taken over (from climbing) as the #1 passion in his life now. But he still seems to have hooked up with the locals and is climbing hard over there. He got the FA of some open project (at least he thinks it was open) over there - he says 14a/b. And is working on something "really hard". Also has been doing "big wall" stuff in Austria - which as far as I can gather are multi pitch 13's - mixed bolt and gear. He was off to Slovania this past weekend - haven't heard the results yet but I know there is good climbing there. Still I think he is going to have a hard time keeping up with V. when he gets home.
But who cares about these kids - ask me about all the 11's I did at the over graded crags at the New and Red last week.
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Gmburns2000
Oct 22, 2007, 7:29 PM
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olderic wrote: I think Jake meant that Vasya is adopted by New England. I wonder how his parents are doing - they should be home from Nepal by now I think.
That is what I meant. I tried to post that before, but for some reason I kept getting an error. I would they'd be getting ready for comp season coming up, as they have another climber climbing hard, too, right?
olderic wrote: Zebby is indeed out of the country - in Budapest this semester. I think math has taken over (from climbing) as the #1 passion in his life now. But he still seems to have hooked up with the locals and is climbing hard over there.
What's that college bill look like?
olderic wrote: He got the FA of some open project (at least he thinks it was open) over there - he says 14a/b. And is working on something "really hard". Also has been doing "big wall" stuff in Austria - which as far as I can gather are multi pitch 13's - mixed bolt and gear. He was off to Slovania this past weekend - haven't heard the results yet but I know there is good climbing there. Still I think he is going to have a hard time keeping up with V. when he gets home.
sweet.
olderic wrote: But who cares about these kids - ask me about all the 11's I did at the over graded crags at the New and Red last week.
OK, I'll bite, how soft were they?
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wanderlustmd
Oct 23, 2007, 12:01 PM
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Never been to the New, but a guy I climbed with a few weeks ago mentioned that he used to onsite .11d @ the New and peaked at around .10c @ Seneca.
I have no idea if there is any validity to that statement based on the actual climbing at the New but...
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munky
Oct 23, 2007, 1:45 PM
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Bull shit. People talk about Seneca being so stout for the grade. The ratings there are legit. They aren't new school ratings by any means but to say that the New is sooo soft compared to Seneca thats a load of horse crap. That guy just didn't know how to place gear efficiently and run it out. He probably was getting on easier 11's at the New. Climbs like Angel's Arete 10a at Bridge Buttress is way harder for the grade than most of the 10s at Seneca. And of course Seneca has its share of sandbagged routes as well. But in general they are about the same.
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wanderlustmd
Oct 23, 2007, 2:17 PM
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munky wrote: People talk about Seneca being so stout for the grade. The ratings there are legit.
I agree.
munky wrote: That guy just didn't know how to place gear efficiently and run it out.
No, he knew what he was doing in that dept. Different styles of climbing perhaps. I think he said he was a better face climber than crack, that may have had something to do with it.
munky wrote: He probably was getting on easier 11's at the New.
Maybe, but he does climb quite hard on sport and has been at if for a while.
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dominic7
Oct 23, 2007, 2:53 PM
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wanderlustmd wrote: munky wrote: People talk about Seneca being so stout for the grade. The ratings there are legit. I agree. munky wrote: That guy just didn't know how to place gear efficiently and run it out. No, he knew what he was doing in that dept. Different styles of climbing perhaps. I think he said he was a better face climber than crack, that may have had something to do with it. munky wrote: He probably was getting on easier 11's at the New. Maybe, but he does climb quite hard on sport and has been at if for a while.
Drifting... drifting... and we now officially are completely off-topic. Nicely hi-jacked.
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jammer
Oct 24, 2007, 8:07 PM
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So Jake ... need a belay for this one too???
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jakedatc
Oct 24, 2007, 10:21 PM
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nah man i don't even know if i can get past the first bolt. I have other fish to fry up there though..
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jakedatc
Oct 25, 2007, 1:11 AM
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haha 5.10 to 5.11 is good.. 5.12 to 5.14+ uhmm not so possible ;) 5.12 to harder 5.12.. thaaats what im goin for
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jammer
Oct 25, 2007, 11:55 AM
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I do hope to get out more this next year. I just got a job as a homeless outreach coordinator in my area, which means that I'll be busy in the cold weather and not so in the warm. Maybe we can get together again in the spring and you can belay me on those not so hard climbs!
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caughtinside
Oct 26, 2007, 9:48 PM
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PTFTW!!
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