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downshift
Oct 7, 2001, 3:32 PM
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In trying to add more to the Ontario route section I been thinking there a few places that have the potential for being good for climbing. But, since I haven't been to them in ages I can't remember the quality of them.
Here they are:
- Ball's Fall of Beamsville
- Rockwood just South of Geulph (top of geulph line)
- Anywhere in the bronte creek valley
- Anywhere along the Escarpment around Grimsby
- Around the old Rock crusher (now torn down)in Dundas
Anyone have any ideas???
[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2001-10-13 08:04 ]
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fiend
Oct 7, 2001, 8:59 PM
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I've done some wandering around the Dundas cliff line and most of it looked pretty chossy, short and glass strewn.
I'm definitely interested in any new areas around here though, let us know if you check any of these places out.
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downshift
Oct 7, 2001, 9:07 PM
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I posted what was in the guide for Dundas (Spencer Gorge area) I have climbed there once but that was five years ago. It was small but not too bad. It's a good afternoon out.
[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2001-10-07 14:10 ]
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c_plante
Oct 9, 2001, 6:05 AM
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There's a few spots along the bruce trail in the dundas area that are okay, if short. For the most part it's overgrown, and unfortunately eroding. If we want to climb some of these spots we'll either have to do it quick, or conserve it somehow. Between Highway 6 and the Strawberry House there's a few spots.
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downshift
Oct 10, 2001, 12:10 AM
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c_plante:
Is Dundas worth an exploritory trip??? What about Rockwood... Have you been there lately?
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downshift
Oct 10, 2001, 12:21 AM
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Had another thought about spots. I heard there was a small gorge around Brantford or Paris Ontario that has a nice waterfall in it. (It's featured in a Tea Party video) Has anyone been there... Is it climbable?
[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2001-10-09 18:11 ]
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c_plante
Oct 10, 2001, 7:22 AM
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Downshift:
Dundas is worth the exploration, I mean, it is in a big valley after all.
As for the paris waterfalls I've been there, there's a lot of rock pretty much everywhere, and a lot of water. There's also a lot of old buildings worth buildering, and there's quite a bit of rock surrounding the waterfalls. Worth checking.
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passthepitonspete
Oct 10, 2001, 7:22 AM
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John Kaandorp is the guy to contact re. routes in the Dundas valley. He lived in Greensville for many years. He now lives up in Allenford, west of Owen Sound. In the phone book, under him or his wife Christine Mitropolous. He can tell you virtually everything about the area. There is definitely some stuff worth doing! That little crag downstream of Webster's is pretty good!
I am not aware of anything climbable in the Bronte Creek Valley.
JK also did some climbing at Rockwood. I know he put up a climb called "Bermuda Shorts" in June of 1982 when I was (shudder) on my honeymoon in Bermuda. (Thank goodness I'm divorced - I'm now enjoying my post-divorce rennaissance).
You guys should come over to Oakville sometime - lots of climbing slides and notes from our adventures - the ROCC (Roving Ontario Climbing Coalition) circa early 80's.
Cheers, "Pass the Pitons" Pete
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c_plante
Oct 10, 2001, 8:08 AM
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Oakville? Downshift and I are in burlington, we climb twiss rock mostly. But hey, I'll climb anywhere that's close.
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stewbing
Oct 10, 2001, 12:04 PM
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Where are you thinking in Rockwood? I know a guy that was approached by the Rockwood conservation Park about developing the actual Park, we went down there and the majority of clean rock was way too short to develope, some very cool caves, maybe some bouldering oportunities there not much else.
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downshift
Oct 10, 2001, 3:51 PM
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Pete:
I'd be up for an expedition to Oakville anytime. I'd just have to grab a mini van to be incogento.
stewbing:
I was thinking Rockwood would be great for bouldering (especially in the conservation park) I just had no idea if the locals would be receptive to it and if there was anything worth doing. Do you have any beta on some bouldering???
Thanks for the info guys... Do you know of any other places in the area that aren't mentioned in the Route list section of Ontario?
[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2001-10-10 08:52 ]
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stewbing
Oct 10, 2001, 5:16 PM
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Downshift,
I think the Conservation Authority would be receptive, they are the ones who contacted my friend. There is an office on site, usually with a Conservation officer present, run it past them, and I don't think there should be any access issues. No specific beta on bouldering there, there are all kinds of areas to look at though, one specific area is to go past the ruins and follow the path to two large caves that look like they have some real possibilites for bouldering.
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c_plante
Oct 10, 2001, 10:13 PM
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hey... is rockwood north of dundas? Because if it is, Downshift we hiked that area the one time, and there were all those old buildings and whatsuch... Um, with the sulfer springs water tap?
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downshift
Oct 11, 2001, 12:09 AM
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stewbing,
I guess I'll have to check out Rockwood before the winter hits and get some bouldering in.
c_plante,
Rockwood pretty much at the end of Guelph line way north of Burlington. The sulfer spings water tap, that's Dundas but close to Ancaster.
[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2001-10-10 17:20 ]
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c_plante
Oct 11, 2001, 9:35 AM
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Okay Downshift in that case we should scope out that area around sulfer springs. I seem to recall rock. But then again, lets face it, until you climb out of the golden horeshoe you'll encounter a whole lotta rock
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downshift
Oct 11, 2001, 11:50 PM
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I don't remember much around Sulpher springs. Jarek and I scoped it out over the summer and didn't find all too much. But, then again there could be somewhere we missed.
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c_plante
Oct 12, 2001, 9:22 AM
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Anywhere else that you can think of?
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downshift
Oct 13, 2001, 2:58 PM
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I know there has to be something on the Escarpment that runs parallel to the QEW between Hamilton in Niagra. The guides have a big void of that area and I know there is rock face. We just have to get the time to drive and explore it one afternoon. Oh well, something to do in the future.
[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2001-10-13 08:03 ]
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darkside
Oct 15, 2001, 7:09 AM
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FYI Niagara area.
*Balls Falls. Rock is fractured, unstable and not good for rockclimbing at either the lower or upper falls.
*Grimsby. Beamer Park. Despite looking high when viewed from the QEW, the hill slopes up so only the top is exposed and much of this is loose. Not worth the drive.
*Niagara Glen. A nice spot to boulder
*Campden Crag. Short routes, mostly sport.
*Jordan trestle bridge. Sport routes on remains of a stone train bridge.
Check out www.glenbouldering.com for beta on the last three.
Dundas Valley. This raises a RED FLAG. There is absolutely no climbing allowed on lands owned by the Hamilton Conservation Authority with the exception of that currently being negotiated by the Access Committee. There has been a lot of hard work put into this and much more to be done. Unfortunately most of the cliffline on HCA land is composed of loose, unstable rock so the thrust of maintaining access has been for access to the ice. There are enough alternatives for rock nearby such as Rattlesnake or Kelso. HCA lands are closed to rockclimbing for environmental and liability reasons and this includes the Spencer Gorge Wilderness area so help us to help you, by respecting closures. If in doubt about access, drop me a line and I'll try to clarify things for you.
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c_plante
Oct 15, 2001, 7:53 AM
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Hey Darkside, is there a place where all these things are posted? Like some obscure hamilton city website type thing? Just wondering where you heard about that, it's good that you told us before we got caught!
Thanks for the beta
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downshift
Oct 15, 2001, 3:50 PM
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Darkside:
How long had Dundas been closed. Now I feel bad I used to climb there alot when I was in high school.
Oh do you know what the link is for the Jordan Tressel Bridge?
Thanks!
[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2001-10-15 08:53 ]
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downshift
Oct 15, 2001, 5:54 PM
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Darkside:
Never mind about the link to Jordan I found it it's:
http://www.niagara.com/~peaks/newclimb.htm
If anyone know the area / has climb it recently please post it on the route list. Thanks.
[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2001-10-15 11:46 ]
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darkside
Oct 17, 2001, 1:05 AM
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c_plante : I know this stuff because I am on the ACCess Committee and we are in the process of working with the HCA at the moment. There is an access page on the Alpine Club of Canada website which I believe can be linked from the main page or use this link. http://www.climbers.org/section/access.html It is only policies at this time but there are some changes being worked on as the info is somewhat dated. The ACC address is www.climbers.org and sometimes things are posted on the BB. There are some recent developments in access in Ontario so you can always direct queries to myself or another access committee member.
downshift : Don't feel too bad as access has not always been the issue it is today. It is a result of increased numbers, myself included, which is why everyone has to do their bit.
I will try to add the Jordan stuff to the route list if I get time but here is a link for Campden. www.glenbouldering.com/campden.html
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downshift
Oct 17, 2001, 2:52 AM
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It's good to see back in the days of climbing Dundas I wasn't breaking any laws... Mind you I was a minor back then so I guess it really wouldn't of matter. I'm really impress with what the Access committe is try to do it give me a new respect for the ACC. I stopped climbing a few years back when I had a really bad experience with the ACC. But, things see to be in better shape now and I really must applaude the intiative the ACC is doing for climbers.
Thanks Darkside
[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2001-10-16 19:55 ]
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passthepitonspete
Oct 17, 2001, 4:05 AM
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There's an interesting looking area to the SW of Meaford - I can't remember what it is called, but the 1:50,000 topo map shows a cliff facing SE. Whether it's a climbable cliff or not, I have no idea. I've never been there, but always wanted to check it out. I'd remember the name if you told me. You guys should find a 1:50000 topo map (Elstone Stationery, NE corner of New and Guelph Line in Burlington - he'll have it in stock) and go check it out. Save the big aid line for me! Cheers, "Pass the Pitons" Pete
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c_plante
Oct 17, 2001, 8:57 AM
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Darkside:
I just visited that link you provided, will the Access committee be posting area specific rules and regs, as well as landowners wishes etc... on the site? I think that that would be a great contribution, especially with regards to specific landowner concerns and environmental concerns (such as the positively ancient trees along the escarpment)
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downshift
Oct 17, 2001, 1:50 PM
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passthepitonspete
I'll check with my Meaford expert and see if I get an answer for you. Your suggestion may have potential for a road trip. Elstone Stationery, eh! I thought I was the only one that got topos from there I just use it because its around the corner from my house.
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downshift
Oct 18, 2001, 1:28 AM
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PTPP
Ok my Meaford expert confirmed there is rock face but as for it climbing potential he's not sure. So that was kinda a bust. On another note I may be around there in the next couple of months (probably spring) and I'll take a look.
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passthepitonspete
Oct 18, 2001, 2:00 AM
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There is a pretty good crag NW of Meaford and facing east - we called it St. Vincent crag. We put up some routes there in the early 80's. The place I'm wondering about is SW of Meaford in the Walters Falls(?)area, is by some marsh or something, maybe called Bognor's Marsh or some such thing, looked interesting on the topo, but no idea what's there. The topo certainly shows a cliff. For what it's worth...
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fiend
Oct 18, 2001, 4:52 AM
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I added all the campden sport routes a while back.
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darkside
Oct 22, 2001, 4:23 AM
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FYI: I've added most of the routes at Jordan Harbour and will add the remainder in about a week or two when I have confirmed some names/grades.
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downshift
Oct 25, 2001, 1:53 PM
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Hey all...
I'm out in Eastern Ontario right now. On my way out there I managed to stop by Deep River and saw some really nice climbs... I'll post direction upon my return but does anyone have any beta on routes? I want to head back there in the summer when it's warmer.
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downshift
Nov 24, 2001, 3:57 PM
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Anybody have any good beta on Dorion tower, Powasson, or New Liscard? I'm trying to get some notes so I can figure out a summer roadtrip.
Thanks All,
DownShift
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darkside
Nov 25, 2001, 1:35 PM
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Sounds like you'll be racking up a few miles then. A non-climber once told me of a large cliff in Cobalt, south of New Liskeard, but I can only offer this as a rumour. Is Dorian tower anywhere near Dorian near Thunderbay? I would like to make a trip to Tbay ice this winter and if I do I will let you know of anything I hear.
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downshift
Nov 25, 2001, 6:16 PM
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Darkside:
I love road tripping in Northern Ontario! I've climbed in a few places up there where I'm sure no one has climbed before.
I keep in touch with a few older retired climbers that knew people that knew people that climbed in Liscard and apparently, it supposed to be one the most beautiful climbs in Northern Ontario. Dorion tower is around Tbay. It's mentioned in David Smart's Ontario's Finest Rock Climbs. But, I wouldn't mind more beta before I make the trek.
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darkside
Nov 28, 2001, 6:28 PM
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There is a link on the links page of Gripped magazine ( www.gripped.com ) that will link you to the Thunder Bay Online Rock Guide. I don't know if you have checked it out but Dorian Tower is listed there http://www.norlink.net/%7Emtjoseph/mthelens.htm
If you haven't seen this website you may find some other routes to peek your curiosity. Enjoy.
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krillen
Nov 28, 2001, 8:15 PM
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There is supposed to be great Trad in New Liskard. 11-12's from what I've been told. As far as Powassan area I think it's more rounded around there. I ahvea cottage about a 1/2 hour west of there (Restoule). There is supposed to be great Ice climbing in Restoule but I couldn't get any info for and rock stuff. I'm thinking of having an Advenbture climbing weekend and seeing what I can find up there.
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downshift
Nov 29, 2001, 4:11 AM
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Darkside:
Thanks, I total forgot about that website. I'll just have to find sometime to review it all. Oh well I guess that's what work is for.
Krillen:
Restoule eh. When I was younger 16 or so I used to do fishing trips around there (Loring area). I remember free climbing a wall over water on the little Pickerel river (I think). It was only about 40 feet but it was fun.
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c_plante
Dec 5, 2001, 11:03 PM
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Last time I was at Restoule all I could find was flat land lots of trees and bored horny country folk...
(note to self, move to country)
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