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onceahardman
Nov 1, 2007, 6:10 PM
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yeah, bloody mary is maybe more technical. old-school john turner route...5.9 from the early 60s is usually tough.
have you done fastest gun at pok-o? 4 pitches, 9+, 9+, 10a, 10a, but it's really 4 varied pitches, all about the same diff. third pitch is runout. not the hardest 9 though, but still pretty stiff for the grade.
incredible route, one of the best in the 'dacks.
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irregularpanda
Nov 1, 2007, 6:18 PM
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North Early Winters Spire, The northwest corner.
Best layback in the Washington State is just below the heinous flaring O.W. Crux pitch.
Oh, and if anyone has the new climbing mag, don't believe the hype about washington pass, it sucks there.
In Fact, most of Washington state kinda sucks except for a random pitch amongst oodles of chossy pitches.
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jajen
Nov 1, 2007, 9:09 PM
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Aesthesia at the Spider's web in the Dacs. Know a solid 11 leader who still won't lead it!
How about ANY 9 or 9+ at Cathedral in North Conway that Henry Barber put in?? For that matter any Henry Barber 9 or 9+ anywhere!
Dacs, Gunks and North Conway all are rated pretty stout for 5.9.
(This post was edited by jajen on Nov 1, 2007, 9:10 PM)
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onceahardman
Nov 1, 2007, 9:54 PM
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hey-we brought up on the loose at spiders web...
i have looked at aesthesia, gosh it's pretty, but it does look hard for its grade. another of those inside corners stuck on the edge of an outside corner. never actually tried it.
TR (5.10) is easier than on the loose.
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zeke_sf
Nov 1, 2007, 10:12 PM
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Travelers Buttress at Lover's Leap is the hardest 9 I've led. It has a bit of funky OW and I don't have that technique dialed at all. It seems to give even a lot of strong 5.10 leaders the slip.
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climbingaggie03
Nov 1, 2007, 10:59 PM
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How about steck salathe? it's been upgraded to 5.10b but it used to be 5.9 from hell.
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jajen
Nov 1, 2007, 11:51 PM
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onceahardman wrote: hey-we brought up on the loose at spiders web... i have looked at aesthesia, gosh it's pretty, but it does look hard for its grade. another of those inside corners stuck on the edge of an outside corner. never actually tried it. TR (5.10) is easier than on the loose.
Totally agree on the TR comment - I warm up on that but still ned to get my head in the game to consider Aesthesia or On The Loose!
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jacobbelsher
Nov 2, 2007, 12:19 AM
Post #33 of 80
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well, having some trouble interpeting (hardess) but my most exhausting pitch ever, is I guess my hardest 5.9 pitch of trad: the flaring chimmney on the south face of Prusssic Peak. P4 I think. seriously, its fucking ridiculous. literally, could hardly speak when I was finished.
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kmc
Nov 2, 2007, 12:37 AM
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Onceahardman,
I have been on fastest gun but have only done P1 and P2. Not sure why we didnt do the whole thing, but we ended up stopping after P2.
I love the climbing in the 'dacks, but unfortunatley I dont make it up there as often as I'd like. Last trip there I spent one day at the Beer Walls, and one day at Spiders Web. Spiders Web has some fabulous routes. Got on Slim Pickens, Aesthesia, On the Loose, and Dacker Cracker. The climbing there actually made it hard to go back to the Gunks (something I never thought I'd say)
Hopefully it will get cold enough for some ice real soon. Then Ill be heading up North for sure.
~Kevin
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tallmark515
Nov 2, 2007, 2:42 AM
Post #36 of 80
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Open book at Tahquitz. First 5.9 in the country put up by Royal Robbins. Lots of committing, steep, liebacks up a dihedral. I tried to to jam/stem the whole thing and it ended up making it more difficult and awkward.
-m
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cragmasterp
Nov 2, 2007, 3:28 AM
Post #37 of 80
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Steck Salathe on Sentinal was 5.9 back when i climbed it, and it kicked my ass. and that was after having a fun time on the NW face of half dome a couple of days before.
I led Tits and Beer at the glass back in my early days, and I remember it being somewhat epic.
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charlet_poser
Nov 2, 2007, 4:47 AM
Post #38 of 80
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Godzilla, 5.9+ at Index, WA.
After feeling comfortable on 5.10 this thing still gave me the willies to lead.
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ryanb
Nov 2, 2007, 5:03 AM
Post #39 of 80
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irregularpanda wrote: North Early Winters Spire, The northwest corner. Best layback in the Washington State is just below the heinous flaring O.W. Crux pitch. Oh, and if anyone has the new climbing mag, don't believe the hype about washington pass, it sucks there. In Fact, most of Washington state kinda sucks except for a random pitch amongst oodles of chossy pitches.
Yeah WA pass sucks. Chossy wet road side junk. Last hard pitch of liberty crack is a good 5.9 ... 50 meteres of techy slab climbing protected by old pins with about 1000 feet of exposure. Glad my partner led it.
Godzilla isn't that bad if you use the rests (you can get hands free above and below the layback, and right before you go out left by chimneying in the corner a bit) and save a green alien for the top but is a harsh introduction to sustained index climbing if you don't. GM (all 3 pitches, not the first 2 to heart of the country) would get my vote for hardest index 5.9 but i haven't managed to do the last pitch (bring lots of 3's and 4's...).
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raymondjeffrey
Nov 2, 2007, 5:07 AM
Post #40 of 80
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Am I missing something? Clean and Jerk 5.10c on page 155 of Randy Vogel's Rock Climbing Guide.
The toughest 5.9 for me was Laceration Spur; those chimneys kicked my ass.
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cchas
Nov 2, 2007, 2:27 PM
Post #41 of 80
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hansolo wrote: Tits and Beer at Looking Glass NC has gotta be one of the hardest 5.9's out there. Crescent Arch on Daft Dome in Tuolome was also pretty hard for the grade, but it was no Tits and Beer.
Check out the 5.9 about 50ft to the right (yup, out on the slabs) of Crescent Arches on Daff Dome. I lead 5.12 trad and 5.12d/.13a sport (and spent 2 years doing only R/X rated climbs) and the 5.9 out on the slab still freaks me out (ok, I'm a wimp)
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ja1484
Nov 3, 2007, 5:23 PM
Post #42 of 80
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j_ung wrote: Jaws is up there for me. Bridge Buttress, NRG. MF at the Gunks, too.
Now Jay, I know from other posts on here you're a Stone Mountain vet and you're telling me the first pitch of Grand Funk didn't pucker you up more than Jaws?
Anyway, that's mine:
Grand Funk Railroad, 5.9- (FA'd 1971), Stone Mountain, NC
Crux is a blank, steep bulge you must traverse right across on smears alone with no handholds for roughly 15 feet. By the time you hit this crux, you are ~40' off the deck and about ~30' to the right of your last piece of pro, a bolt. After that it's all fun in the sun, but I seriously thought I was going to the hospital all through that section.
(This post was edited by ja1484 on Nov 3, 2007, 5:27 PM)
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camhead
Nov 3, 2007, 6:29 PM
Post #43 of 80
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if Clean and and Jerk is indeed 5.9, then without a doubt that is the top of my hard list.
otherwise, I agree with anyone who cited MF.
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fenderfour
Nov 3, 2007, 6:56 PM
Post #44 of 80
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irregularpanda wrote: North Early Winters Spire, The northwest corner. Best layback in the Washington State is just below the heinous flaring O.W. Crux pitch. Oh, and if anyone has the new climbing mag, don't believe the hype about washington pass, it sucks there. In Fact, most of Washington state kinda sucks except for a random pitch amongst oodles of chossy pitches.
Yeah, the climbing in Washington is pure crap. I have to go to Smith or Squamish to find anything of value.
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kmc
Nov 3, 2007, 7:32 PM
Post #45 of 80
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Why does everyone keep saying MF? I never found that to be a difficult route for the grade. Le Teton on the other hand is a more difficult 9.
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drjghl
Nov 3, 2007, 8:15 PM
Post #46 of 80
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Northeast Buttress on Higher Cathedral Rock in Yosemite.
After climbing for eight years, nothing even comes remotely close to being as hard as this 5.9 thugfest. After I took a hang on the first 5.8 pitch I knew I was in trouble.
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pt
Nov 3, 2007, 9:32 PM
Post #47 of 80
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Registered: May 29, 2003
Posts: 400
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The Straight Edge (9+) Vedauwoo
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boglins
Nov 3, 2007, 10:53 PM
Post #48 of 80
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Tits and Beer on Looking Glass in NC has spit out more than a few 5.11 sport climbers...
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onceahardman
Nov 4, 2007, 1:45 AM
Post #49 of 80
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hey, its only 5.8, but has anybody ever led (or seen anybody lead) turner's flake at cathedral ledge?
it looks great, but f-ing COMMITING! like either keep laybacking or fall a loooong way!
just curious. i have always wanted to go back for that, but i never met anybody who actually did it!
EDIT: BTW, it was first led when the only pro was 1-2 inch pitons!
(This post was edited by onceahardman on Nov 4, 2007, 2:25 AM)
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LostinMaine
Nov 5, 2007, 2:24 PM
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onceahardman wrote: its frosted mug. small inside corner at the edge of an outside corner. labatt-ami is 5.6. adirondacks have pretty stout ratings in general. there is a WAY harder 9 (to me) across the street at the spider's web. "on the loose" (9+)...i think it might be a henry barber route. 120 ft handcrack, overhanging all the way, what a PUMP!
I agree that this is harder, but I haven't led it ;)
My brother and I spent some time at spider's. After climbing Mr. Roger's Neighborhood and Slim Pickins, I handed the rope over and he climbed On the loose. I'm glad he led it.
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