Yes, I use hexes. Primarily the smaller ones on cable, and some that I have slung myself. On certain climbs, I bring up a #9 and #10, because I know exactly where I need them. If I've got a good stance, and the time to place them correctly, I'll use a hex instead of a cam-I've never had a hex walk.
I use them a fair bit. I have the Metolius 6-9 and have used a partner's rockcentrics extensively. I prefer the rockcentrics most of the time (but not always).
Hexes, like most gear, have a time and a place to be used. I bring em on alpine climbs (lighter than cams, and less likely to blow out those loose blocks nd get you killed, unlike a cam) and I bring em on some free walls (again, lighter weight). But truthfully, I tend to only bring sizes 9 and 11, occasionally a 10.
So, overall, what would you people prefer, buying 1 cam or buying 5 hexes?
I bought one of the smaller sizes to try (CAMP #6, old style with straight sides) and have almost never used it, but I can see the advantages of having hexes in the larger sizes.
at this point, I'd buy the hexes to supplement what I've already got.
I only carry them on an approach that is less than 100 yards, unless I am certain I need one, and running it out, or alternative gear won't do. Christopher Watkins may be into them since they sound so much like cow bells, but I think it gets annoying.
Nothing gets a free ride, and a full set of Hexes seems to violate that climbing policy.
If you are asking the question because you want to purchase them, Wild Country Rockcentrics are superior, to the others that I've used.
Also, I've managed to assemble an ultralight rack suited to my style of climbing, and so for my personal needs hexes don't benefit me in the area of weight savings.
i think the WC ones are the way to go.Wired hexes walk where as the slinged ones tend to stay in place. I have been able to place them around the back of flakes facing away from me and have the sling curving arond so the runner can get to my rope. they are so much more versatile other than the reach thing of course but I prefer to be able to see my placements and know they are good.
The metolius curved hexes are good, the alpine metolius curve hex set is better. They have a spectra sling sown on to the cable. Very nice and ez to place. Too bad they only sell it in the set though...
Erick, you're going to buy more hexes? As in, you're going to start carrying doubles!? We'll be able to hear you from a mile away!
haha if only. Maybe one day.
For some of the very first pieces of my rack, i foolishly bought 2 small BD hexes not having a clue about anything. i have never placed either of them in an actually climb...just practicing on the ground. Since getting cams i've never bothered going back to try them...but I can see how they would be wayyy better in their larger sizes. the camming range on those smaller sizes is so uselessly narrow. it'd be incredibly cheaper to double my cams with hexes.
plus...the concept of the hex is so simply and old-school, there's something there that definitely worth checking out.
I never use the smaller hex sizes anymore. The small wired hexes use to work good for aid, but HB wireds work so much better.
Still use the biggest 3 or 4 Black Diamond sizes. I had a 30+ year old set which I mistakenly went and replaced with the new BD wireds. Heres a pic of last summer with some of the old BD on the rack. I probably should just sell the wired ones cause I don't like them as much.
I like the slung hexes better. So I went and bought the larger Rockcentrics which are great. I'd consider the Metolis as well.
Hexes are great cause some placements around here take them much better (not in granite) but look at the picture, and Smith Rocks welded tuft take them well too, and they are lighter and cheaper too. We carried some on the longer routes in Vegas earlier this month as well, but it's pretty route specific. Cams are usually faster both to place and remove IMO, which offsets the weight advantage on long routes somewhat on the long routes. Also, they work better for toproping - cams can wiggle out of a placement which a cam is stuck solid in, and you don't feel as bad leaving them up there alone and out of sight in case of thievery like you would a cam.
Edited to add: I clicked the "sometimes" button (despite owning almost 3 sets of em).
(This post was edited by billcoe_ on Dec 4, 2007, 6:32 AM)
I use the larger and the smaller sizes... i really only place the smaller ones if i've got a really good stance, so i can save the nuts and stoppers for later (especially since the smaller size hexs are rated less than than the nuts of equal size)
i like the big sizes too.. just wrap a sling around them to stop the cowbell... lol
Hexes are invaluable for light and fast alpine climbs. I carry the big ones even on short approach climbs to supplement my cams, but usually only set up anchors at B-stations with them. I like my old rockcentrics, though I usually climb using my BD wired hexes. The stiffness allows me to pull them off my sling and get them into the general placement before doing fine tuning. Everybody has their preference, so the best thing you could do is to find some friends that have some different versions and get the ones that work best for you.
rarely, if ever. the only times i ever end up placing them is on a dare from my climbing partner to lead something with no cams. this year, i've placed two hexes- both in an anchor on ginger cracks, but only because we hauled the damn things up there and i figured i might as well use them.
imho- hexes are slow to place and take way too long to remove, ultimately slowing you down if you place them alot. the advantages of them are so minimal, i dont really think they're worth it on technical rock. i have no experience in alpine, so i cant comment there.
however, if you must get hexes, try and get your paws on some old slung BD's- those are the best hexes ever made- i tossed my metolius curves after managing to booty a half set of those old ones for old school days with scary larry.
imho- hexes are slow to place and take way too long to remove, ultimately slowing you down if you place them alot.
I mean this with all due respect John, but some folks are better at placing and removing them than others.
Simply put, there are many placements (even just on Ginger Cracks) where a hex goes in easily, securely, and quickly. Those same placement are poor for a cam, and require a little fiddling to get an adequate placement.
It's a matter of having an eye for such placements, and a practiced hand at getting them in and out.
There are all kinds of good reasons to use hexes. Especially while learning how pro works. That being said, I haven't used one in decades. Since I only climb about 100 day a year and I'm in my fifties, not likely I will place another one, unless I make a point of it, or go to that one appropriate place, or bail.