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microbarn
Jan 2, 2008, 6:49 PM
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churningindawake wrote: Trad climbing at a young age is a thing many young climbers are afraid to do. Althought I am not. I am a 13 year old climber from Oregon. I can climb 5.13 trad and it does not scare me a bit. In truth, trad climbing feels safer than sport climbing to me, because if you feel you are about to fall, you can throw in some gear, and continue climbing. While if you were sport climbing and you wqere struggling, you couldn't get any protection in until you reached the next bolt. Trad climbing is also a better thing for young climbers to do because it is less stress to their body. Trad is also better because it is less harm to the rock, where as placing bolts is ruining the rock. Go have fun Climbing, Wolfgang Braun !3 years Old translation:
In reply to: hello, I like to spray about my hard climbing and higher morals. What shoes should I get?
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churningindawake
Jan 2, 2008, 6:52 PM
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i do not know, i was wondering about good trad shoes, for now i use muiras by la sportiva, they seem to work well
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sausalito
Jan 2, 2008, 7:34 PM
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I don't buy any of it..... You should really update your profile to a better pic than an arse shot of you on some 5.easy sport route.
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angry
Jan 2, 2008, 7:42 PM
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Too good of grammar and spelling. Not perfect but I've never seen a kid post here whose writing was even understandable. I'd give 10 to 1 odds that this kid doesn't exist.
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cchas
Jan 2, 2008, 8:03 PM
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angry wrote: Too good of grammar and spelling. Not perfect but I've never seen a kid post here whose writing was even understandable. I'd give 10 to 1 odds that this kid doesn't exist. Hell, even us 40-somethings barely legible chickenscratchings I think his profile has too much flash to attract them fish- but lets see who takes the bait.
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krusher4
Jan 2, 2008, 8:09 PM
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I love the skulls cause I think they make you hard core.
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j_ung
Jan 2, 2008, 8:09 PM
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Internet troll or teenage douchebag; either way, quite the auspicious beginning.
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Adk
Jan 2, 2008, 8:22 PM
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I see in your avatar pic you are wearing 5.10s. Just remember, the shoes make you climb better just like a good sneaker makes you capable of dunking the basketball. .....and your question is.....???? Or did I just miss something?
(This post was edited by Adk on Jan 2, 2008, 9:13 PM)
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wzrdgandalf
Jan 2, 2008, 8:29 PM
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j_ung wrote: Internet troll or teenage douchebag; either way, quite the auspicious beginning. An auspicious beginning indeed haha. Good call J_ung
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randomtask
Jan 2, 2008, 8:49 PM
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What about the music selection???
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mark_e_wallace
Jan 3, 2008, 6:59 AM
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In reply to: Trad climbing is also a better thing for young climbers to do because it is less stress to their body. How exactly is that? - Mark
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majid_sabet
Jan 3, 2008, 7:22 AM
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Young trad I see show us the picture of your daddy while climbing cause I see not trad gear on your harness (at least not on your photos) . edit; You are not related to Werner Braun by any chance are you ?
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jan 3, 2008, 7:24 AM)
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climbsomething
Jan 3, 2008, 7:23 AM
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cchas wrote: I think his profile has too much flash to attract them fish- but lets see who takes the bait. doobie doobie doo...
gunksgoer wrote: You've obviously never been on anything but a G rated route. Go to tuolumne and tell me that the old school 5.9 - 5.11 routes feel easy and safe. Ever heard of the Bachar - Yerian?
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rock_junkie
Jan 3, 2008, 7:45 AM
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So you're for Oregon, well so am I. I consider myself somewhat in the "know", and I haven't heard of you. Maybe you're one of those selfless hardmen, but I highly doubt that considering your post. I'm also quite familiar with most of the hard lines in Oregon and the 12+ 13 gear routes are anything but secure and the gear is shit.
(This post was edited by rock_junkie on Jan 3, 2008, 7:59 AM)
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camhead
Jan 4, 2008, 1:27 AM
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ruby's cafe is a sport climb.
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microbarn
Jan 4, 2008, 1:36 AM
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camhead wrote: ruby's cafe is a sport climb. yea, so are all the climbs in his pics
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jaybro
Jan 4, 2008, 3:08 AM
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I'll take this at face value. Good for you, I started on trad too... that's all there was when I was 13. Look at Mythos/Testarosa's When (and how) did Ruby's get to be a sport climb?
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bent_gate
Jan 4, 2008, 3:20 AM
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microbarn wrote: camhead wrote: ruby's cafe is a sport climb. yea, so are all the climbs in his pics Who says you can't put in a piece on a sport climb between bolts?
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miavzero
Jan 4, 2008, 3:31 AM
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Wolfie, It sounds like you are learning a great deal in your studies, and that you are having some great climbing experiences. All you have left to learn is how to be a little more modest. I advise that you learn a thing or two from seasone rc.com hardmen/net gods and learn to do things like subtly drop the name of a super hard route or highlight your achievements. Try something like this: "I wanted to try out the new katanas that sportiva gave me, so decided to take a few runs up Ruby's. The shoes worked well, but hard factory rubber probably wouldn't have worked as well as my Kaulkulators did on my onsight of the Northwest Face of Half Dome." Also, make sure that you to every hard route you do as soft, it makes you look like a badass who is still keeping it real. To maintain an image as a down to earth badass DO NOT start an 8a.nu scorecard, but make sure that all the right people are watching when you climb, and that pictures of your ripped back somehow manage to get posted all over the internet.
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rock_junkie
Jan 4, 2008, 4:06 AM
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Hey Wolfie, let's meet up sometime. There's a lot of great routes in the Portland area which might be right up your alley. There are still a few hard gear climbs waiting for FA which i can point out to you.
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angry
Jan 4, 2008, 4:18 AM
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LSFTMFW
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shivaBD
Jan 4, 2008, 6:05 AM
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you really climb A3+?? Because if so do you want to guide me up P.O wall
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miavzero
Jan 4, 2008, 7:39 PM
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I once heard the following: leading A5=hellish terror belaying A5=hellish boredom Kids have a short attention span.
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camhead
Jan 4, 2008, 8:15 PM
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"lame sauce for the mother fucking win?" "lick sack for the mother fucking win?" "lamp stand for the mother fucking win?"
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paintrain
Jan 4, 2008, 11:24 PM
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gunksgoer wrote: churningindawake wrote: I can climb 5.13 trad and it does not scare me a bit. In truth, trad climbing feels safer than sport climbing to me, because if you feel you are about to fall, you can throw in some gear, and continue climbing. You've obviously never been on anything but a G rated route. Go to tuolumne and tell me that the old school 5.9 - 5.11 routes feel easy and safe. Ever heard of the Bachar - Yerian? Bachar-yerian is a sport climb. Its bolted, duh. If the kid is 13 give him a break. He will probably be mocking your climbing abilities next year as he has sponsors paying him 100s of thousands of dollars to ink their logo on his calf. If he isn't 13 and trolling, you guys are choking on the hook. PT
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knieveltech
Jan 4, 2008, 11:38 PM
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camhead wrote: "lame sauce for the mother fucking win?" "lick sack for the mother fucking win?" "lamp stand for the mother fucking win?"
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stymingersfink
Jan 7, 2008, 8:30 PM
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camhead wrote: "lame sauce for the mother fucking win?" "lick sack for the mother fucking win?" "lamp stand for the mother fucking win?" "lip stick for the massive fucking wanker"
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punk_rocker333
Jan 7, 2008, 8:44 PM
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Bachar-Yerian a Sport Climb? Just because a climb has bolts doesn't make it a sport climb.
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knieveltech
Jan 7, 2008, 8:58 PM
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punk_rocker333 wrote: Bachar-Yerian a Sport Climb? Just because a climb has bolts doesn't make it a sport climb. That brings up a potentially interesting question; if a route is only protected by bolts at what point is it considered a sport climb? Where's the line there?
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randomtask
Jan 7, 2008, 9:09 PM
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Ground up vs. Top down, IMO. -JR
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j_ung
Jan 7, 2008, 9:27 PM
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randomtask wrote: Ground up vs. Top down, IMO. -JR I understand the sentiment behind your definition, but -- and I mean this in the friendliest way -- it's wrong, or at least incomplete. By your definition, a route with a bolt every meter, but drilled entirely on lead, would be a trad route. Likewise, a route cleaned, rehearsed and anchor equipped on rappel/TR, but with only cam and stopper placements to protect the lead, would be a sport route. Even if you're speaking more about subsequent ascents and not the FA, I still think it's incorrect. Sure the definitions of sport and trad routes have some subjectivity to them, but not that much subjectivity!
(This post was edited by j_ung on Jan 7, 2008, 9:31 PM)
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camhead
Jan 7, 2008, 9:43 PM
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knieveltech wrote: punk_rocker333 wrote: Bachar-Yerian a Sport Climb? Just because a climb has bolts doesn't make it a sport climb. That brings up a potentially interesting question; if a route is only protected by bolts at what point is it considered a sport climb? Where's the line there? the point at which you see people hangdogging, ticking, and "rehearsing" moves. that is why I said that Ruby's cafe is a sport climb. If anyone here has onsighted it, I apologize.
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knieveltech
Jan 7, 2008, 9:53 PM
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camhead wrote: knieveltech wrote: punk_rocker333 wrote: Bachar-Yerian a Sport Climb? Just because a climb has bolts doesn't make it a sport climb. That brings up a potentially interesting question; if a route is only protected by bolts at what point is it considered a sport climb? Where's the line there? the point at which you see people hangdogging, ticking, and "rehearsing" moves. that is why I said that Ruby's cafe is a sport climb. If anyone here has onsighted it, I apologize. I dig what you're saying, but I'm still not sure that this really draws a solid line. For example, I think everyone would agree that all of the purely bolted lines at the NRG are sport routes, independent upon the style with which folks usually climb them. In contrast, as far as I know there are several purely bolted lines at Stone Mountain in NC that nobody considers to be sport routes.
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punk_rocker333
Jan 7, 2008, 10:01 PM
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For me it is the distance between bolts and my personal confidence at the grade. If it is a challenging grade and the bolts are more than a couple body lengths apart, I wouldn't consider it a sport climb as falling is not usually safe and I can't "practice" the climb in a sport-like manner. In the end it doesn't really matter what the difference between "sport" and "trad" with a few bolts is. I usually ignore these terms and call it either gear climbing (because a cam isn't really traditional in my opinion) or clipping bolts (where I differentiate by how run out it is). "The Line" is merely a point of discussion for internet forums and is of no use in a real climbing situation.
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dingus
Jan 7, 2008, 10:11 PM
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gunksgoer wrote: And since when can people lead harder aid than they can follow? Jugging is A0? DMT
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knieveltech
Jan 7, 2008, 10:25 PM
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punk_rocker333 wrote: For me it is the distance between bolts and my personal confidence at the grade. If it is a challenging grade and the bolts are more than a couple body lengths apart, I wouldn't consider it a sport climb as falling is not usually safe and I can't "practice" the climb in a sport-like manner. In the end it doesn't really matter what the difference between "sport" and "trad" with a few bolts is. I usually ignore these terms and call it either gear climbing (because a cam isn't really traditional in my opinion) or clipping bolts (where I differentiate by how run out it is). "The Line" is merely a point of discussion for internet forums and is of no use in a real climbing situation. Fair enough, but for those of us routinely stuck in a cube for 8+ hours a day this kind of navel gazing offers a welcome distraction.
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paintrain
Jan 7, 2008, 10:58 PM
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Vertical/Overhanging + no natural pro + Bolts = Sport climb. They were early pioneers of sport climbing. Its just run out. PT
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paintrain
Jan 7, 2008, 11:21 PM
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Oh yeah. They used hooks on lead to drill. Sport climb. A Sporty sport climb to boot. PT
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piton
Jan 8, 2008, 12:31 AM
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WB if you are into trad climbing then climb w/ many trad climbers. you will learn lots for the trade of tradition. there are trad climb where there is Not much for gear. also as you can figure out most of the wankers on here have a star next the profile name and over 2000 posts. ask angry how to hang dog up a 5.10 in the black canyon
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churningindawake
Jan 8, 2008, 12:58 AM
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I usually trad climb not sport climb. My definition of trad climbing is when you use cams to place in cracks, or natural slots, and put stopper placements in the crack, not clip bolts. And i dont usually do first ascents, so i dont rap off routes. My dad can't climb as hard as i can, so i climb the route, clean the anchor, or walk off, and he lowers me. I don't see where you people think my defintion of trad is clipping bolts Weird............
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punk_rocker333
Jan 8, 2008, 1:34 AM
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I feel your pain. A 20 credit, two pt job semester starts day after tomorrow. Then I'll wish I even had the time to debate about the difference between sport and trad. And oh yeah, to the OP, your thread has morphed into something beyond your arrogant assertions about your climbing ability.
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austin.timm
Jan 8, 2008, 1:44 AM
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In reply to: In contrast, as far as I know there are several purely bolted lines at Stone Mountain in NC that nobody considers to be sport routes. i've made a few trips to stone in the past month, one of which was two days ago and we are going again tomorrow. that is definately not an exageration. a 'bolted' line is not nescessarily a 'sport' line.... unless you consider two bolts amongst a 150' pitch of 5.10a slab to be sport.
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knieveltech
Jan 8, 2008, 1:56 AM
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austin.timm wrote: In reply to: In contrast, as far as I know there are several purely bolted lines at Stone Mountain in NC that nobody considers to be sport routes. i've made a few trips to stone in the past month, one of which was two days ago and we are going again tomorrow. that is definately not an exageration. a 'bolted' line is not nescessarily a 'sport' line.... unless you consider two bolts amongst a 150' pitch of 5.10a slab to be sport. No fucking way that's sport. 50' of hard unprotected slab? On lead I'd shit my pants, weep piteously, and bail without even leaving the anchor. Props to those with the sack to get on lines like that, I ain't one of em and I don't see that changing any time soon.
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j_ung
Jan 8, 2008, 3:52 PM
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knieveltech wrote: austin.timm wrote: In reply to: In contrast, as far as I know there are several purely bolted lines at Stone Mountain in NC that nobody considers to be sport routes. i've made a few trips to stone in the past month, one of which was two days ago and we are going again tomorrow. that is definately not an exageration. a 'bolted' line is not nescessarily a 'sport' line.... unless you consider two bolts amongst a 150' pitch of 5.10a slab to be sport. No fucking way that's sport. 50' of hard unprotected slab? On lead I'd shit my pants, weep piteously, and bail without even leaving the anchor. Props to those with the sack to get on lines like that, I ain't one of em and I don't see that changing any time soon. It'd be a damn shame if you never made it out there. It's amazing what you can get used to.
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knieveltech
Jan 8, 2008, 4:16 PM
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j_ung wrote: knieveltech wrote: austin.timm wrote: In reply to: In contrast, as far as I know there are several purely bolted lines at Stone Mountain in NC that nobody considers to be sport routes. i've made a few trips to stone in the past month, one of which was two days ago and we are going again tomorrow. that is definately not an exageration. a 'bolted' line is not nescessarily a 'sport' line.... unless you consider two bolts amongst a 150' pitch of 5.10a slab to be sport. No fucking way that's sport. 50' of hard unprotected slab? On lead I'd shit my pants, weep piteously, and bail without even leaving the anchor. Props to those with the sack to get on lines like that, I ain't one of em and I don't see that changing any time soon. It'd be a damn shame if you never made it out there. It's amazing what you can get used to. Hopefully one of these days I'll have my headspace sorted.
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stymingersfink
Jan 8, 2008, 11:25 PM
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knieveltech wrote: j_ung wrote: knieveltech wrote: austin.timm wrote: In reply to: In contrast, as far as I know there are several purely bolted lines at Stone Mountain in NC that nobody considers to be sport routes. i've made a few trips to stone in the past month, one of which was two days ago and we are going again tomorrow. that is definately not an exageration. a 'bolted' line is not nescessarily a 'sport' line.... unless you consider two bolts amongst a 150' pitch of 5.10a slab to be sport. No fucking way that's sport. 50' of hard unprotected slab? On lead I'd shit my pants, weep piteously, and bail without even leaving the anchor. Props to those with the sack to get on lines like that, I ain't one of em and I don't see that changing any time soon. It'd be a damn shame if you never made it out there. It's amazing what you can get used to. Hopefully one of these days I'll have my headspace sorted. well, if you had 75' of 5.8 slab, a bolt, then a .10a move followed by another 50' of 5.6 slab, a bolt followed by a 5.9 slab move, then the anchor... you think you could wrap your head around that?
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knieveltech
Jan 9, 2008, 3:29 AM
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stymingersfink wrote: knieveltech wrote: j_ung wrote: knieveltech wrote: austin.timm wrote: In reply to: In contrast, as far as I know there are several purely bolted lines at Stone Mountain in NC that nobody considers to be sport routes. i've made a few trips to stone in the past month, one of which was two days ago and we are going again tomorrow. that is definately not an exageration. a 'bolted' line is not nescessarily a 'sport' line.... unless you consider two bolts amongst a 150' pitch of 5.10a slab to be sport. No fucking way that's sport. 50' of hard unprotected slab? On lead I'd shit my pants, weep piteously, and bail without even leaving the anchor. Props to those with the sack to get on lines like that, I ain't one of em and I don't see that changing any time soon. It'd be a damn shame if you never made it out there. It's amazing what you can get used to. Hopefully one of these days I'll have my headspace sorted. well, if you had 75' of 5.8 slab, a bolt, then a .10a move followed by another 50' of 5.6 slab, a bolt followed by a 5.9 slab move, then the anchor... you think you could wrap your head around that? With my lead head (or lack thereof) as it stands now, definitely not. I hate it too because my headspace is keeping me from doing a lot of things. It's slowly improving though. I'm hoping that spending the next couple months almost exclusively route climbing will help.
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iceworm
Jan 9, 2008, 4:24 AM
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dude guys, this kid's nothing....i can climb 5.15 trad with my eyes closed but don't quite know what shoes to use before i go and try 5.16. also i like 200 mile bike rides! basically, i'm the shit so who wants to sponsor me?
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piton
Jan 9, 2008, 2:04 PM
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so once you get more into trad, you will learn everything is not so straight forward as Indian Creek cracks. So if you have any technical questions gear placement building anchors, forces ask rgold Rich is a genius. Also about certain areas or techniques of climbing esp. offwidth Jaybro is your go to guy for questions
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churningindawake
Jan 9, 2008, 11:42 PM
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I've read both the climbing anchors books by john long, and before i started climbing how to rock climb. my dad and i's climbing friend is also a good trad climber, so thats how i learned to climb trad. I have done 100 mile road bike rides such as summit to surf, reach the beach, and the blackberry bramble
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armsrforclimbing
Jan 10, 2008, 4:38 PM
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Posts: 214
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I'd like to put this as gently as possible, and I am well aware that I am walking on a minefield. I have been climbing for years, and honestly never even realized the definition of sport was up for interpretation. It seems to me that a purely bolted line is a sport climb if there is no natural pro available. Lose the bolts than it is a trad climb. A hard route with 50 ft. of runout between bolts is a far less "sporty" sport route but the bolts would make it a sport climb. I have always understood that the description of the climbing discipline referred to the type of pro you would encounter. That being said I suppose that some degrees of the "sport" description are in order. The Stone Mountain climbs that austin.timm mentions might not be your average sport routes, but are they trad? Seems to me its up for the locals to decide that one. If I had to recommend those routes to someone, I probably wouldnt say that they are 150' sport routes. I would more likely say that they are runout scary grunt fests with only 2 bolts, so bring your lead head.
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bizarrodrinker
Jan 10, 2008, 8:24 PM
Post #60 of 62
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Registered: Dec 20, 2005
Posts: 2316
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j_ung wrote: churningindawake wrote: I've read both the climbing anchors books by john long, and before i started climbing how to rock climb. my dad and i's climbing friend is also a good trad climber, so thats how i learned to climb trad. I have done 100 mile road bike rides such as summit to surf, reach the beach, and the blackberry bramble Ask him what "spray" means. Fuel to the fire that he is in fact a teenager.
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wallmonkey35
Jan 10, 2008, 8:50 PM
Post #61 of 62
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Registered: Jul 28, 2005
Posts: 102
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austin.timm wrote: In reply to: In contrast, as far as I know there are several purely bolted lines at Stone Mountain in NC that nobody considers to be sport routes. i've made a few trips to stone in the past month, one of which was two days ago and we are going again tomorrow. that is definately not an exageration. a 'bolted' line is not nescessarily a 'sport' line.... unless you consider two bolts amongst a 150' pitch of 5.10a slab to be sport. Yep....Sure do. As mentioned above, not a very "sporty" sport climb, but a sport climb none the less.
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