Feb 4, 2008, 6:24 PM
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What is belayer’s first priority during leader fall
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Not if you were in some big wall or doing sport vs trad vs TR or using this or that belay device but in general;what is belayer’s first priority during leader fall ?
Feb 4, 2008, 6:31 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] What is belayer’s first priority during leader fall
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ummm, take up as much slack as possible and arrest the rope?
I will never hear the end of it if I get this one wrong...
Edit: crap I think I got it wrong... provide as much dynamic load lightening as possible and arrest the rope? aww man... maybe its think clearly... yeah that is my final answer.
(This post was edited by MonkeyInTraining on Feb 4, 2008, 6:34 PM)
Feb 4, 2008, 6:32 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] What is belayer’s first priority during leader fall
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majid_sabet wrote:
Not if you were in some big wall or doing sport vs trad vs TR or using this or that belay device but in general;what is belayer’s first priority during leader fall ?
There is never an "in general" in climbing. Everything about climbing situations are dynamic, which includes the belay. If you framed the question which is more important giving someone a soft catch or keeping someone from hitting the deck I think it would be more straight forward.
Feb 4, 2008, 6:35 PM
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Re: [MonkeyInTraining] What is belayer’s first priority during leader fall
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i think it depends on your experience, im relatively new and when i first belayed my partner on lead he told me in the event of a fall lock the rope immediately.
and at the same time, a friend of mine recently went climbing at red rocks with a guy who had years of xp under his belt. my friend took a lead fall and his partner took up slack (not let out as the poll states) and jumped in the air.
Feb 4, 2008, 6:41 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] What is belayer’s first priority during leader fall
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majid_sabet wrote:
Not if you were in some big wall or doing sport vs trad vs TR or using this or that belay device but in general;what is belayer’s first priority during leader fall ?
Hmmmm... I'm not to sure what you mean. Could you please provide a diagram, preferably featuring large arrows and a couple of car tires. Thanks!
Feb 4, 2008, 6:47 PM
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Re: [climb_eng] What is belayer’s first priority during leader fall
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climb_eng wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
Not if you were in some big wall or doing sport vs trad vs TR or using this or that belay device but in general;what is belayer’s first priority during leader fall ?
Hmmmm... I'm not to sure what you mean. Could you please provide a diagram, preferably featuring large arrows and a couple of car tires. Thanks!
Feb 4, 2008, 7:03 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] What is belayer’s first priority during leader fall
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majid_sabet wrote:
climb_eng wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
Not if you were in some big wall or doing sport vs trad vs TR or using this or that belay device but in general;what is belayer’s first priority during leader fall ?
Hmmmm... I'm not to sure what you mean. Could you please provide a diagram, preferably featuring large arrows and a couple of car tires. Thanks!
Stop smoking that sh*t and focus on the question
In general.... it depends on the context. Climbing is about assessing the situation and responding appropriately, not about making grand generalizations.
Feb 4, 2008, 7:12 PM
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Re: [kriso9tails] What is belayer’s first priority during leader fall
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Isn't this obvious? #1 priority is to stop the climber from hitting the ground or a ledge if at all possible. #2 priority is to do it in a way where you don't slam the climber into the wall.
Feb 4, 2008, 7:16 PM
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Re: [kriso9tails] What is belayer’s first priority during leader fall
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kriso9tails wrote:
In general.... it depends on the context. Climbing is about assessing the situation and responding appropriately, not about making grand generalizations.
I'm having trouble imagining a context in which the appropriate response doesn't including catching the fall.
Feb 4, 2008, 7:25 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] What is belayer’s first priority during leader fall
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majid_sabet wrote:
Not if you were in some big wall or doing sport vs trad vs TR or using this or that belay device but in general;what is belayer’s first priority during leader fall ?
I am sorry, majid, I usually have patience with you. But...this is a rediculous poll. Your question does not match your poll choices. Your poll choices are entirely situational. The #1 priority in a fall is to make sure your climber doesn't hit anything, whether that means the ground or a ledge or a tree. SO in other words, catch the damn fall. Sometimes this means taking up slack quickly, which in turn could harden the fall. You know what's worse than not getting a soft catch? Hitting the ground!
The way you belay depends on the situation. It's dictated by the angle of the climb, how much rope is out/how high the climber is, whether there are any obstacles in the way, whether you are able to move as a belayer, whether you are using an atc or autolocking device, the weight of the climber, and many other factors. NOt to mention, although i have no proof of this, the alignment of the moon in relation the all the planets.
Feb 4, 2008, 7:29 PM
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Re: [j_ung] What is belayer’s first priority during leader fall
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j_ung wrote:
kriso9tails wrote:
In general.... it depends on the context. Climbing is about assessing the situation and responding appropriately, not about making grand generalizations.
I'm having trouble imagining a context in which the appropriate response doesn't including catching the fall.
(Okay, maybe I can imagine one.)
My, aren't you going to look silly out deep water soloing.
Feb 4, 2008, 7:55 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] What is belayer’s first priority during leader fall
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majid_sabet wrote:
climb_eng wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
Not if you were in some big wall or doing sport vs trad vs TR or using this or that belay device but in general;what is belayer’s first priority during leader fall ?
Hmmmm... I'm not to sure what you mean. Could you please provide a diagram, preferably featuring large arrows and a couple of car tires. Thanks!
Stop smoking that sh*t and focus on the question
- good maj
edit: oops - catch
(This post was edited by reg on Feb 4, 2008, 7:58 PM)
Feb 4, 2008, 7:58 PM
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Re: [charley] What is belayer’s first priority during leader fall
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charley wrote:
On one of the rock climbing sites someone else put it so well: A belayers job is to catch the fall, anything else is perks. I agree.
If you'll allow me to be somewhat literal, I don't agree. If someone short-ropes me and breaks my ankle or smashes my face into an overhang they had better be a cute girl with masterful 'I'm sorry/ sad puppy dog' eyes or rest assured I will punch them in the throat the first chance I get.
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