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angry
Feb 12, 2008, 11:11 PM
Post #26 of 31
(1295 views)
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
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What number comes after 24?
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climbingaggie03
Feb 13, 2008, 12:22 AM
Post #27 of 31
(1270 views)
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Registered: Mar 18, 2004
Posts: 1173
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dudemanbu wrote: It was definitely implied that there is a fall needed to remove a cam from a crack. Give me a little more credit than that. granite_grrl wrote: dudemanbu wrote: I guess you've never had a piece that you thought was bomber rip because of bad luck, or a surprising lack of rock integrity. I've seen good sized cams slide right out of perfectly parallel cracks of excellent basalt, for no reason other than they must have felt like it. climbingaggie03 wrote: I guess I see where you're going. I aggree about having 2 pieces between you and the ground/ledge. For a while I doubled up on placements too, and there is a time and a place for placing two. Now however, my strategy is to place bomber pieces all the time, and place them when I need them. Sometimes if the gear is a bit dicey, or the crux is particularly challenging, I'll place two, but I think placing 2 pieces every time you place a piece is a little unnecessary, and that it's safer to spread it out a little more. A good rule of thumb is to keep at least two pieces of gear between you and the ground/ledge if possible. Normally when I get to a good rest stance I've already placed several pieces below me. If one or more of those peices will keep me off the ground why would I need to double up? But hell, if you like to build your self an anchor at every rest stance who am I to stop you. BTW - please say your cams only slip out when you're falling on them. If they pop randomly perhaps you should learn about extending stuff a little better.
Actually I had a cam pop due to bad slinging and bad placement once, I wasn't too surprised though, and it made my life better as far as rope drag ect.
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king_rat
Feb 13, 2008, 1:42 PM
Post #28 of 31
(1232 views)
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Registered: Jul 20, 2005
Posts: 365
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My issue with the system you are using is not the extra weight but that you are leavening gear behind, which you may need later, this would worry me particularly if you are doing this on multi pitch routes where you will have already used gear to set up a belay for your second, and will need to set up a second belay at the top of the pitch. On a long pitch you may place a lot of gear and its best to conserve what you have, particularly if a climb you have not done and you do not know what may be required further on.
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stymingersfink
Feb 14, 2008, 1:45 AM
Post #30 of 31
(1189 views)
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
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climbingaggie03 wrote: I have had that happen, but I learned why they popped and how better to determine rock integrity so that I don't have that problem any more, although that is why I used to double up as well.
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greatgarbanzo
Feb 29, 2008, 6:23 PM
Post #31 of 31
(1121 views)
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Registered: Oct 13, 2001
Posts: 360
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If you really want to learn about efficiency get Dave Macleod e-Book (How to Climb Hard Trad) from davemacleod.com
Awesome reading. I have been trad climbing for the last 12 years and though I knew it all. Learn from the real expert.
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