I've read a lot of recommendations and talked to a few guides and semi-pro climbers and most of them prefer to climb cracks with flat slippers like the Anasazi Moccasym.

If you are going to climb 5.7-5.10 trad routes, multi-pitch, "all day," then I would definitely use a shoe like the Mythos, or Acopa Spectres or JBs or something comparable.

for a weekend climber on the routes i listed above, say 10+ pitch deals on mostly easy, sub-vertical granite, a mix of slabs, ledges, and various kinds of cracks, with some talus-hopping gully or slab descent, carrying a day pack, a soft slipper is a really bad idea. people pick up a mag with a pic of dean potter wearing mocs to solo half-dome or of someone on a 5.12 thin hand rig in IC and think, "boy, that's just what i need to slog up a 1000 ft of 5.5 sierra granite before i grovel down the snow-filled descent gully."

There's been two pairs of shoes that I've really liked. My ankles have scabs on top of scar tissue on top of more scar tissue. But I guess that's what tape is for.

The additional comfort I get on the descent coupled with the added performance I get on the route VASTLY outweigh the compromise-benefits of a shoe you can do the descent in. That's true at any grade.

I take issue that you can't get high performance in a shoe you can do the descent in.

For multi-pitch climbing, I wear a pair of Mythos that are sized comfortably. I've done some pretty long Yosemite descents with the Mythos. Not saying it is the best way to go, but its doable.

I'm getting more into trad climbing and my gym shoes are way too uncomfortable for an all day thing. Any suggestions?

stick to the plastic. Its a much better way to climb.

avoid anything which might get you stuck with the label "trad-tard". it makes you look stoopid.

if you MUST climb outside, stick to the single-pitch bolted lines. It's almost just like the gym, but without the pretty colored tape. You can remedy this though... beg, borrow or steal a roll of your favorite color from the gym and take it to your first (and for all intents and purposes, your last) outdoor climb and apply colorful strips below all the holds.

it's a tradition to do this on your first outdoor climb. really.

Its true though. A shoe that has a wide enough toe box and enough padding to allow good time on a grueling descent is not going to be that precise, sensitive or aggressive (if that's what you need). I would not dream of doing any of the scree-field descents that I've done, certainly not in the face of a coming storm, even in my Enduros. It would be shear suffering, and it'd slow me down.

Climbing and walking require different things from shoes and trying to compromise between the two means that both will suffer, in my opinion, more than is allowable.

Not to get into some kind of pissing match, but what were these long Yosemite descents like? I've never been to the Valley, so I don't know. What I do know is that if the descent is more than a mile or so, I'm bringing approach shoes. Blisters that prevent me from climbing the next day just aren't worth it.

I like Ballet Golds and Trad masters

Yes I have come down from multipitch routes in rock shoes, but it sucks.

I have pretty much given up wearing any kind of rock shoe for a descent longer than 5 minutes. Descents are downhill, and pretty much just hammer my big toes. If the shoes are loose enough to be comfy doing this, they probably slide around and are shitty climbing shoes.

No such thing as the perfect trad shoe, or at least I havent' found it. Mythos is a fine crack shoe and decent all arounder, but the edging is just too poor to call it the best.

Well, yeah. But carrying descent shoes up the route is also a nuisance.

Right, but you can create (or suck up) a fair bit of room with the Mythos by loosening/tightening the lace around the heel and for long multi-pitch. I'm not usually climbing right at my limit where I need a sport shoe fit.

The Mythos edge pretty good when new, but it does go downhill. I'm willing to give up some edging for the ability to smear and smudge (half smear/half edge).

Each to their own.

Mostly it just a question that I haven't found a better performing shoe that fits my weird/narrow foot.

I hated the trad masters after I used them for a while. They were basically insulated, and it felt like I was climbing with pools of sweat on my feet.

I liked them all, but the 5.10 Pitons are incredible.
on any size crack, tips to offwidth they are AMAZING

on the hand cracks the extra rubber over the toes locks you in soo securely you could practically stand in the crack all day.

I climb in PTFTW's

Ok... I'm new around here, so someone please clue me in...


WTF is PTFTW?!?!?

Does the toe box run really narrow? I have wide/short feet and have a hard time finding good shoes that don't KILL my pinky and big toes.

Thanks.

Check it out on the La Sportiva website.

The best trad shoes are the ones that fit your feet the best and are the cheapest. Any sales person who tells you otherwise is just trying to get you to spend more money. They are all the same, aside from how they lace up.

RR

Check it out on the La Sportiva website.

sorry, wrong answer.

Sty, you're a sucker if you think otherwise. Unless you're climbing 5.13 sport. You really think a beginner is going to notice the difference in performance between a steep face shoe and a crack shoe? comfort is the Biggest quality to look for. Second to that is price.

RR