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catga86
Oct 26, 2002, 8:19 PM
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What if you are crack climbing and you put your jam your foot into the crack....then you fall. Could you get your foot stuck in and fall? Wouldn't that tear up your ankle...
Give me your input....
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aid312
Oct 26, 2002, 8:29 PM
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Did I miss Happy Hour again???
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lightboi
Oct 26, 2002, 8:33 PM
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Yea it can.
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bretterick
Oct 26, 2002, 9:02 PM
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yeah, and the worry is not getting your foot all hutr up. its the worry of hitting your head while going inverted.
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camhead
Oct 26, 2002, 10:31 PM
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yes, I've seen it happen a few times, especially on wide hands cracks, where the feet are more secure than the hands.
To avoid it, try not putting your feet too far into the crack. They should be secure, but if they are full on wedged, well... bad news. Also, just make sure that your hand jams are secure. If they are not, make sure that your feet will peel out at the same time.
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vanclimber
Oct 26, 2002, 10:34 PM
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In Advanced Rock Climbing by Craig Luebben and John Long, they describe a crack climber taking a lead fall with a stuck foot jam, "powdering" his ankle. The lesson was that although you should strive for the bomber foot jam, overtorqueing the foot can lead to disasterous results.
I think if you feel like you are going to pop while climbing cracks, make sure you pull your feet out of the crack before you go.
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catga86
Oct 27, 2002, 2:27 AM
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That scaries me....
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pelliott
Oct 27, 2002, 3:23 AM
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I just bought some Sportiva Megas. They have a board last, and I noticed a peculiar problem with them getting stuck in cracks as a result. I think I need to be careful when I use these shoes considering the consequences.
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catga86
Oct 27, 2002, 4:59 PM
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Could this happen with hands?
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camhead
Oct 27, 2002, 5:55 PM
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it can happen with hands if you are in a really good bottle neck.
Even worse is when you have a bomber finger lock, and then your feet give out.
OUCH!
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joemor
Oct 28, 2002, 6:13 AM
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why is this in sport climbing?
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stevematthys
Oct 28, 2002, 1:49 PM
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because some jackass somewhere proabably bolted a crack, but hopefully they are talking about a t/r crack.
[ This Message was edited by: stevematthys on 2002-10-28 14:06 ]
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sparky
Oct 31, 2002, 12:12 AM
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who would do something like that?
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wlderdude
Oct 31, 2002, 12:31 AM
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Probably somone who had to decide between a hammer drill and a trad rack and chose the drill.
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mtnsprts
Oct 31, 2002, 1:16 AM
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That thought has been going through my mind at the gym.......no matter where it would happen, ........"bad news bears."- walter mathou
haha
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lostangel
Oct 31, 2002, 1:27 AM
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this could happen to any body part... I love crack climbing but I have gotten my fingers caught (and once and arm) to where I fell and couldnt get them out... I just got back on the rockj to get them out then finished the climb cause I was completely ticked off
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fireclimber
Oct 31, 2002, 1:30 AM
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I have thought about getting my foot stuck but only briefly while climbing. You see when your leading you really dont focus in on the what if's, you just climb. I find that you only think of things like getting stuck in a crack when you are down safely and looking at a climb, or siting in a chair gazing into a computer screen. So basicially just climb and focus and dont sweat the small stuff, climbing is dangerous embrace it and feel the rush!
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bradhill
Oct 31, 2002, 1:46 AM
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I read that the guy who did the FA of Trango Tower (too lazy to look up the name) get his knee seriously stuck in a crack like 24 pitches off the deck. He had to work at it for an hour and eventually cut off his pants to get it out.
I hate when that happens.
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petsfed
Oct 31, 2002, 2:19 AM
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I've heard about a guy that got his knee wedged neatly in a crack and got to chill there for about 3 hours as the tissue around his patella swelled up. I didn't, however, hear about how he got out of that, shall we say, jam.
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mike
Oct 31, 2002, 2:32 AM
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I did this precise thing Labor Day. Right foot in a crack, left foot sketching, some runout, I come off the wall, right foot stays in the crack until I was inverted. Tore a ligament off in my ankle, it took the bone with it where it attaches, which is actually better than breaking a ligment.
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benblake
Oct 31, 2002, 3:12 AM
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a friend of mine got herself into a tight spot recently - she decided that she'd stick her whole arm into a slightly off-width crack.
lo and behold... she get super-pumped and got her WHOLE ARM stuck in the crack. she had to wait about 45mins to get un-pumped.
my mates and i had a good laugh for a bit, and we don't let her forget about it
-ben
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russmanswife
Nov 1, 2002, 9:00 PM
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probably a pretty obvious question but i would assume that if you have bad ankles you shouldn't attempt crack climbing is that right?
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tradklime
Nov 1, 2002, 9:28 PM
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A couple of weekends ago my feet peeled while I had a pretty solid finger lock. Luckily I had the pressence of mind to yank my hand away from the crack as I fell. I only left a chunk of skin in the crack rather than the whole finger.
Definitely something to be aware of crack climbing.
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rockprodigy
Nov 1, 2002, 10:08 PM
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In the story you refer to on Trango tower the guy had to hack his thigh open with a piton to get out...blood makes a good lubricant.
As for your fingers being ripped off...I've never heard of such a thing. I have heard of stories such as: "I got this fingerlock where I just knew if my feet popped off, I'd lose a finger...then my feet popped off and somehow my finger slipped out." Typical climber exaggeration. You can mess up your ankles...but I've been falling for 10 years and never had a problem with it...it's rare.
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moeman
Nov 1, 2002, 10:18 PM
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Don't stick your feet in too far and if you feel your hads slipping, pull your feet ot as fast as possible and take the fall (Unless you now the pro sucks). No use in breaking your ankle and not being able to climb for a month.
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tradklime
Nov 1, 2002, 11:05 PM
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Of course my implication that my finger could have ripped off was an exaggeration.
However, broken fingers, damaged tendons, and deep lacerations are not out of the relm of possibility. This also applies to any body part stuck in a crack when a fall occurs. That was the point I intended.
It is a good idea to be aware of your body when you fall and to understand what things you can do to help prevent injury.
[ This Message was edited by: tradklime on 2002-11-01 15:07 ]
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sparky
Nov 3, 2002, 10:46 PM
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I got my foot stuck in aa crack at Eldorado canyon, luckt for me i got it out without falling, at first it was funy then i decided i wasn't really into breaking my ankle so i eventually wiggled ot out.
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sparky
Nov 3, 2002, 10:46 PM
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I got my foot stuck in aa crack at Eldorado canyon, luckt for me i got it out without falling, at first it was funy then i decided i wasn't really into breaking my ankle so i eventually wiggled ot out.
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pbjosh
Nov 4, 2002, 10:04 PM
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If I had a nickel for the number of times I've gotten a foot, knee or finger lock stuck... I do have some scars on my knee and a permanently disfigured knuckle, but no nickels yet
josh
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dig_scott
Nov 5, 2002, 6:53 AM
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why did they bolt a crack???
for everyone can climb them. not just guys with trad gear. why should someone be 'kicked' off the chance to climb a crack just because the climber doesnt have trad gear?
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pbjosh
Nov 5, 2002, 7:15 AM
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Quote:
why did they bolt a crack???
for everyone can climb them. not just guys with trad gear. why should someone be 'kicked' off the chance to climb a crack just because the climber doesnt have trad gear?
This may well be the stupidest thing I've yet read on this site. Let's chip some holds in it too so that the f*cking tools that don't want to learn to jam can face climb around it as well.
I guess the wonders never will cease!
josh
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tradklime
Nov 5, 2002, 4:25 PM
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Holy crap, I second your thoughts on that one josh.
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climber_andy
Nov 7, 2002, 3:02 AM
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I've gotten my foot stuck before to where I had to crank on it to get it out, but it scared me the most when I got my fingers stuck. I somehow slid my hand around in this crack to where my second nuckles where behind a narrow point in the crack, then couldn't figure out how to get it back out! I had a pretty good position luckily (it wasn't a terribly hard climb) so I got to sit there for a few minutes and puzzle it out without risking a fall on it, but I think that would have done some serious damage had I fallen on that.
The guy everyone has been referring to on Trango tower was Martin Boysen. He cut his pants with a knife blade he had pounded on to form a saw-like edge, since it wouldn't cut the pants at first. He did cut his thigh in the process, but in his story of the ascent he didn't mention whether the blood helped things. I'm imagine it did though. And he was on the 12th pitch.
Just for the record, I have a shity memory. Luckily I have the written account of his ascent in front of me.
[ This Message was edited by: climber_andy on 2002-11-06 21:17 ]
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