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volleymdut
Apr 14, 2008, 1:55 PM
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This was a moving post. I hope you heal well and quickly. What a blessing to have a loving family. I was also interested to hear your thoughts on the manner in which the docs cared for you. I treat many fractures and am always hoping to hear how to treat the PATIENT better. Your insight has helped me in many ways.
Speedy recovery.
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WVUCLMBR
Apr 14, 2008, 2:04 PM
Post #27 of 42
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I just wanna repeat all the thanks and kind wishes you have already recieved. Jems like this one make wading through all the rc.com crap worth it. I have made several stupid mistakes myself lately and realize that I need to be more careful/attentive. Thanks for posting this and speedy recovery bro....
Bryan
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sterlingjim
Apr 14, 2008, 2:13 PM
Post #28 of 42
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Over 30 years of climbing. I will tie knots in the ends of my ropes now. Thanks.
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WVUCLMBR
Apr 14, 2008, 2:17 PM
Post #29 of 42
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How about making ropes with fat ends so this doesn't happen? 
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dingus
Apr 14, 2008, 2:32 PM
Post #30 of 42
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There have been situations in my career where knotting the ends of the ropes would have introduced its own set of potentially severe risks, most notably high winds blowing the ropes toward rope eating cracks 75 feet to the side, while rapping with haulbags.
High mountains too and certain types of rock formations, where a knot virtually guarantees stuckage and yet an oncoming storm or what have you dictates RAPID descent.
There are times when you have to manage risks and no one answer will accomodate all the bad things that can happen.
Sometimes in climbing YOU JUST CAN'T FUCK UP.
That's not to say the advice in the OP isn't sound.
Its just a cautionary - there are times when knotting the ends of the rope may not be the right answer. It may pay to be sensitive to those situations. Getting zapped by lightning while trying to free a stuck rope may be no better a result.
Cheers
DMT
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robdotcalm
Apr 14, 2008, 3:40 PM
Post #31 of 42
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Managing a rappel is situational. Is the rappelling on steep, overhanging or low-angle terrain? Are you carrying a heavy pack or just a small amount of gear? Is it calm or is the wind blowing? Is it raining, lightening, or clear and sunny? Have you done this rappel before and have certain knowledge of its length, or are you estimating? Are there cracks in which a knot can get caught? Are you prepared to climb back up the rope if you find yourself dangling in space? Probably, others can add to this list. The point is that the action you take to safeguard the rappel depends upon the nature of the rappel.
Dingus has listed some situations in which knotting the ends of the rope is not advisable. The rule my partners and I use is that the knotting is the default. If circumstances warrant such as those suggested by Dingus, we override the default and do not place knots. Often these are high wind situations in which there are various techniques available for handling the rope.
About the only absolutes, I follow in rappelling are the following. If it’s a one rope rappel, make sure the rope has been middled. As some serious accidents have shown, just seeing the rope ends on the ground does not always suffice. To make this easier to ascertain, I bought a bi-colored rope last year. I’ll never go back to a single-colored rope. Use an auto-block. If you have a helmet, wear it. (About the only time I don’t have one, is if I’ve climbed something like a tight squeeze chimney that it won’t get through).
Gratias et valete bene!
RobertusPunctumPacificus
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durangoclimber
Apr 14, 2008, 3:40 PM
Post #32 of 42
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Thanks so much for this. I was a guide for a lot of years and this rings so true. As I get older (I am only 34 years young) I find myself taking much longer to recover. Your post is very inspiring and a true wake up call. I was out yesterday climbing at East Animas (here in Durango) and noticed that almost no one knots the ends of their ropes anymore. We were on the Watch Tower Crystal wall and the climbs are multi pitch and it is hard to see the ground, yet I didn't see anyone knotting their ends.....nor did I. The thought crossed my mind, but I just didn't do it. I bet my wife would kick my ass if I got hurt. I really appreciate you having the courage to share this. As do my kids and wife.
Hope you recover fast.
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therelic
Apr 14, 2008, 4:49 PM
Post #33 of 42
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BrokenClimber, thanks for the essay it is well written. I am sure what you wrote will save someone somewhere sometime.
I started solo cross-country wilderness travel in the mountains when I was sixteen years old, I am now sixty five years old and still at it. I climb, scramble and try to go where very few if any people have traveled before. There is no cell phone reception and no helicopter rescue. In fact no one could possibly even know where I am or if I have had an accident. If I screw up I die and I know it.
One of the primary reasons I am typing this today is because people like you have told their story. Or worse their stories have been told after analysis of their demise. I have always kept these incidents in the front of my mind and done my very best to not make the same mistakes, so far so good. I have several more trips planned this year and I will make sure whenever the situation allows for it I will either have a knot in the end of my rope or that both ends of my rope are on the ground.
Thanks for telling your story. Good luck to you in the future.
Bill
(This post was edited by therelic on Apr 14, 2008, 4:53 PM)
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vector
Apr 14, 2008, 9:28 PM
Post #34 of 42
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Registered: Jul 13, 2004
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Thanks for the well written story. That kind of writing makes an impression and in this case will probably save someone's life by doing so.
Have a speedy recovery!
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billcoe_
Apr 14, 2008, 10:58 PM
Post #35 of 42
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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Yup, been there done that. Like what Bill says above, I almost lost it last year on a lonely solo Mt journey when I made a stupid move or 2. I don't think you live this long with out a few personal reminders, I'm 53 now, climbing for 35 years going on 36 I guess now.
The ravens would have feasted all winter on my hanging body had I not succeeded in managing to get down.
BTW, thanks for the reminder. Glad people aren't slamming you too.
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rhei
Apr 15, 2008, 4:17 AM
Post #37 of 42
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Registered: May 13, 2003
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Broken Climber, your injury highlights the value of stopper knots in rappelling. Another point comes through in your report, too, a more general lesson. You referred to fading daylight and getting in one more line before heading home. The implication is you were making efforts to move quickly, to be efficient, expeditious. You tried to save a minute by not tying knots and not having to untie them later. So here’s a question, if you’d had one of your clients with you at the cliff top, say to demonstrate how to rig TR anchors, would you have skipped the knots before sending him down on rappel? This seems to come back to that notion of your own invincibility. You behaved differently with respect to your personal actions than I imagine what you’d have done if your clients were involved. I appreciate that you wrote a report that’s stimulated examination of my own practices. In turn, I’ll suggest you expand your analysis. When do the ethics associated with professional guiding let guides exclude themselves from the safety practices they employ with clients in the group?
I’m sorry for your injuries and I hope you mend quickly.
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MonkeyInTraining
Apr 15, 2008, 5:32 AM
Post #38 of 42
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Registered: Nov 19, 2007
Posts: 139
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Great post Broken, I know how you feel. It will be a distant memory soon enough so hang in there.
Those deadly last runs...
In my life the last run has cost me one ACL, one MCL, 2 broken legs, 2 broken arms (of 4 total arm bones broken, 2 were not last run situations), ruptured disk near L7 vert, several broken wrists and ankles (those don't count as legs and arms to skaters and equestrians). Skateboarding, dirt jumping, and horseback ridding can be brutal, especially if you don't have complete focus. Climbing is apparently even less forgiving.
I have one simple rule at this point, if I have the thought "ok its late (or I'm tired) this will be my last run..." I pack up my shit and go, I do not ever have that thought and continue what I am doing. No more last runs for me ever again.
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curt
Apr 15, 2008, 5:55 AM
Post #39 of 42
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
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While I disagree that tying knots in the ends of your rappel ropes is always the best thing to do, your post was a wonderful reminder for each of us to never take anything for granted.
Curt
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WVUCLMBR
Apr 15, 2008, 11:18 AM
Post #40 of 42
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Registered: Sep 20, 2007
Posts: 668
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Looks like I'm not the only fan of practice. I can often be found @ my local crag (topropers/boulderers) with my full trad rack just working on anchors/rigging/escaping belays/prussiking/any new tip from on here or tech tips. In fact I plan on doing this today to work out a couple solo TR problems I've encountered lately. Then tommorow me & the wife are going to go over multi-pitch stuff before we make the first trip of the year. Us n00bs need practice.
(This post was edited by WVUCLMBR on Apr 15, 2008, 11:19 AM)
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reg
Apr 15, 2008, 12:40 PM
Post #41 of 42
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1560
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we all need practice, bro. - keeps ya sharp! 
those that think they don't either climb enough and thus get practicle everyday reviews of techniques and ability or are lookin for an epic  - R
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blueeyedclimber
Apr 16, 2008, 1:42 AM
Post #42 of 42
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
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Broken,
This post should part of every guides reading material. Thanks for sharing.
Josh
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