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jt512
Apr 23, 2008, 4:12 PM
Post #26 of 40
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rockvaulter wrote: andersjr wrote: you will be fine with passive pro. in fact, a majority of the routes there were put up with passive pro.
How would you compare your passive pro skills with the climbers that put up those routes?
Jay
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erolls
Apr 23, 2008, 5:59 PM
Post #27 of 40
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This straight out of the Poorperson's Guidebook:
Equipment: 2 sets #1-9 Rocks, 2 sets .5-2.5 friends OR #1-8 hexes, #3-13 Chouinard stoppers. Take lots of gear...pitches on DT are generally long.
This is a standard rack. Some routes need a lot more small or large gear.
-E
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csproul
Apr 23, 2008, 10:14 PM
Post #28 of 40
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I took doubles up to a #3 Camalot and 1.5 set of stoppers. I could have left off the doubles in the smaller sizes and kept the doubles in the hand sizes. I was wishing on a couple of routes to have more large gear, especially on Durrance, TAD, and El Cracko Diablo (if I remember correctly). I think Soler took more in the fingers to hand sizes. My memory is a bit hazy, but I think I was pretty happy to have (a nearly) double set of cams and I really would not have been happy to lead most of the climbs there with all passive gear. They might have been put up that way, but then again there's a route there that was put up with fence posts too...doesn't mean I want to climb it like that.
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rockvaulter
Apr 24, 2008, 4:57 AM
Post #29 of 40
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erolls wrote: This straight out of the Poorperson's Guidebook: Equipment: 2 sets #1-9 Rocks, 2 sets .5-2.5 friends OR #1-8 hexes, #3-13 Chouinard stoppers. Take lots of gear...pitches on DT are generally long. This is a standard rack. Some routes need a lot more small or large gear. -E
Oh thats just great, where am I going to get Chouinard Stoppers. Anyone got a time machine??? I think BD will work just as well no?
Btw, my climbing partner said he just sprung for 2 #2, 1 #3, and 1 #4. He is getting alot of differnt advice on what we should carry. So we are looking closely on what we should spend it on. I mean i would rather have 2 cams from 1 to 4, but lets be honest here, I/we cant afford it. We are trying to make the best of what is possible (We are doing Durrance...and waking up mad early to get there) and believe me, If i had another 200 bucks to spring for cams I would gladly do it.
Btw...again, we arnt F(*@$ing climbing on the static rope. Where in the F*@^ing world did that come from? I just said I had it. I thought it was assumed to climb people would have climbing rope...not a steel cord of death.
(This post was edited by rockvaulter on Apr 24, 2008, 5:00 AM)
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jt512
Apr 24, 2008, 5:03 AM
Post #30 of 40
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rockvaulter wrote: Btw...again, we arnt F(*@$ing climbing on the static rope. Where in the F*@^ing world did that come from?
From the fact that you fucking listed it. If you weren't planning on using it, why in god's name would you list it. We're not only supposed to somehow know what gear your partner has, without you listing it, but we're supposed to somehow know what gear you've listed that you have no plans to use? You are a fucking idiot.
Jay
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rockvaulter
Apr 24, 2008, 5:16 AM
Post #31 of 40
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rockvaulter wrote: So me and my partner are going to Moab and Devils Tower in 3 week  . This will be our first time climbing out west. I am looking at my gear and wondering what I should add to my rack so we can survive. This is what i have thus far, but I work at EMS so i can buy what i need quick and easy, i just dont want to buy something I dont need right now. What else should i buy? I am buying cams, but which ones and how many?
Jt, it helps to READ and understand sigular and plural pronouns. I am pretty sure everything that I said I had was meant for people to know what I had (N.B. here I.) Then what people would advise what they think I would need to have to climb. I would than take out what I have and have my partner buy the rest. Thus I used "I", not "WE". N.B. the differnce
Yes Jt...I listed everything that was that climbing related, oh but i forgot to list my harness, im suprised someone did not jump on me and asked if i was using a swami or a swiss seat. Some things are just, you know...a given for climbing. I thought rope and harness would be one of those constants but I guess I was wrong. I am sorry I was so presumptuous/arrogant to think likewise.
But please don't take offense. As much as you are flamming me right now, I am just glad to get advice. And I thank you and everyone who has pitched in with advice. And again thank you everyone!!!
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jt512
Apr 24, 2008, 5:34 AM
Post #32 of 40
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rockvaulter wrote: rockvaulter wrote: So me and my partner are going to Moab and Devils Tower in 3 week . This will be our first time climbing out west. I am looking at my gear and wondering what I should add to my rack so we can survive. This is what i have thus far, but I work at EMS so i can buy what i need quick and easy, i just dont want to buy something I dont need right now. What else should i buy? I am buying cams, but which ones and how many? Jt, it helps to READ and understand sigular and plural pronouns. I am pretty sure everything that I said I had was meant for people to know what I had (N.B. here I.) Then what people would advise what they think I would need to have to climb. I would than take out what I have and have my partner buy the rest. Thus I used "I", not "WE". N.B. the differnce Yes Jt...I listed everything that was that climbing related, oh but i forgot to list my harness, im suprised someone did not jump on me and asked if i was using a swami or a swiss seat. Some things are just, you know...a given for climbing. I thought rope and harness would be one of those constants but I guess I was wrong. I am sorry I was so presumptuous/arrogant to think likewise. But please don't take offense. As much as you are flamming me right now, I am just glad to get advice. And I thank you and everyone who has pitched in with advice. And again thank you everyone!!!
You know what you need most for climbing out West? Valid medical insurance.
Jay
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rockvaulter
Apr 24, 2008, 5:53 AM
Post #33 of 40
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jt512 wrote: You know what you need most for climbing out West? Valid medical insurance. Jay
You know Jay, I thought I explained myself pretty well here. But if you are going to get all petty and immature and not actaully give ADVICE rather than flamming responses do to "miscommunication" and "misreading" than I dont know what to say to you. I really hope you are not a paid guide or even a teacher, as I have never seen so much angst and hostility. Maybe its because I didn't take YOUR advice that you feel so obliged to burn me, even thgouh I have taken other peoples advice from this website and other credible sources (funny I just had a Black Diamond Clinic for work and the guy who did it has climbed DT alot.)
Again, I asked for advice, not a fucking Rockvaulter Roast. I have made myself clear in my last post. And if you did not understand the differnce between I and We...then well...I just dont know.
And for everyone who has given advice, again I thank you. I pooled everyones suggestions, weighed the pros and cons of everything cost (lack of money being the only con and safety/ease of use being pros.) My rack itseld wount be a good rack for DT, but mine and my partners will surely be good to go. Thanks again (and yes even to you Jay.)
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jt512
Apr 24, 2008, 6:10 AM
Post #34 of 40
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rockvaulter wrote: jt512 wrote: You know what you need most for climbing out West? Valid medical insurance. Jay You know Jay, I thought I explained myself pretty well here.
Well, you didn't. You're completely clueless. You listed your gear and asked what else you needed, without mentioning what gear your partner had. Genius! Plus, for some bizarre reason, you listed irrelevant gear, like your static rope, which we were somehow supposed to magically know you knew was irrelevant, and were just listing it because...you like to type?
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Apr 24, 2008, 6:13 AM)
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jaybro
Apr 24, 2008, 8:03 AM
Post #35 of 40
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You need to have at least 2 sets camalot .5 -4. extra blues, reds and golds will only make you happier.
three sets tcu blue through orange for harder stuff
plus the wires you have
as a start, at deto.
If Moab = wall street you're set. If IC plan to take the above rack and climb near people with a desert rack and are willing to share, shared topropes, go a long way.
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erolls
Apr 24, 2008, 7:29 PM
Post #36 of 40
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In reply to: Oh thats just great, where am I going to get Chouinard Stoppers
Sorry, thought you could figure out it was only a reference to small gear.
That's just what it says in the guide
-E
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rockvaulter
Apr 25, 2008, 2:00 AM
Post #37 of 40
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erolls wrote: In reply to: Oh thats just great, where am I going to get Chouinard Stoppers Sorry, thought you could figure out it was only a reference to small gear. That's just what it says in the guide -E
Haha E, i was just joking around, i wasnt trying to be mean. Thanks for that advice. But if anyone really does have Chouiinard stoppers, id love to know how old they are.
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knieveltech
Apr 25, 2008, 3:04 AM
Post #38 of 40
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Registered: Dec 2, 2006
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rockvaulter wrote: erolls wrote: In reply to: Oh thats just great, where am I going to get Chouinard Stoppers Sorry, thought you could figure out it was only a reference to small gear. That's just what it says in the guide -E Haha E, i was just joking around, i wasnt trying to be mean. Thanks for that advice. But if anyone really does have Chouiinard stoppers, id love to know how old they are.
I've got most of a set of Chouinard hexes & stoppers. If you keep an eye out on Ebay, Chouinard is by and large the most common vintage pro on auction and with a little dilegence (and a little luck) you should be able to put a complete set together in relatively short order. BTW, anyone have any Forrest Titons they'd be interested in parting with?
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andersjr
Apr 25, 2008, 3:51 AM
Post #39 of 40
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jt512 wrote: rockvaulter wrote: andersjr wrote: you will be fine with passive pro. in fact, a majority of the routes there were put up with passive pro. How would you compare your passive pro skills with the climbers that put up those routes? Jay
if you can't climb soler with all nuts you shouldn't be trad climbing. grab a nut, slot it in, keep going.
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rockvaulter
Apr 26, 2008, 3:03 AM
Post #40 of 40
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I actaully have some Chouinard biners, locking and non-locking and. Sometimes my climbing friends look at me like im crazy or stupid but I rarely use them. I guess they are my chicken biners, but I would be very sad to part with them.
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