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wanderlustmd


Jul 31, 2008, 4:06 PM
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     Re: [chossmonkey] The Lounge™ [In reply to]
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chossmonkey wrote:
There isn't that much Trango gear I'm that excited about.
Their 3cams were pretty good. I don't think they make them anymore, though.


wanderlustmd


Jul 31, 2008, 4:07 PM
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chossmonkey wrote:
So WMD....



What side of the slide are you on?

The right one...as soon as it dries out, that is....
They haven't even started excavating yet....


wanderlustmd


Jul 31, 2008, 4:12 PM
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stymingersfink wrote:
Well, an update from the Dr.'s office:

Went in this afternoon and spoke with a neurologist. The general gist of the thing is this:

Sleep Deprivation.

Now, far be it from me to have the greatest sleep schedule, in fact since that ill fated morning Oct. 1 2005 I honestly haven't slept all that well with any regularity, what with the inability to self-medicate with my drug of choice, the stress of the proceedings going on, and my then-recent return to the single life. In a nutshell, my little incident last week was brought on by a severe deficit of sleep (or so we've decided). Statistically, the chances of ever having something like what happened occur again are 50:50, though if it by some quirk it DOES happen again all bets will be off.

I'll just have to take those chances. Of course, in the mean time I'll have to do what I can to stack the deck in my favor, try to get myself on some kind of regular sleep schedule and increase the quality of sleep that I DO get.

Soo... i guess I'll be off the soloing for a bit till I'm satisfied that it was a one-time event. No driving with the cruise control, no heinous gear leads in my near future either. Hell, who'm I kidding? I haven't done heinous gear leads in quite some time. Pirate

Here's hoping it was a one-time thing. Gotta start stackin' the deck in my favor for a bit, catch up on some much needed sleep quality/quantity. Hope that's enough to settle things.

Does this mean our VII 5.12 A5 plans in the Fisher Towers are off?

Take care of yourself, dude.


dr_feelgood


Jul 31, 2008, 4:25 PM
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wanderlustmd wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
So WMD....



What side of the slide are you on?

The right one...as soon as it dries out, that is....
They haven't even started excavating yet....
Sounds like a fantastic excuse to be stuck in squish.


Partner artm


Jul 31, 2008, 4:31 PM
Post #5405 of 26795 (4563 views)
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Registered: Jun 22, 2001
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wanderlustmd wrote:
artm wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
artm wrote:
wanderlustmd wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
wanderlustmd wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
epoch wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
wanderlustmd wrote:

What is this rubber holder you speak of? Clarify, please.
[image]http://lh4.ggpht.com/WanderlustMD/SIz1rgtR7cI/AAAAAAAAAuU/svi6OgPVUC0/020.JPG?imgmax=512[/image]

If you need more clarification look at the first bolt and the biner attached to it.
[img]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2400/2209923974_9758cafa42_o.gif[/img]


...if he were to fall on that the rubber would break and the whole thing would fall apart!!! Everybody panic!!! QDs aren't as strong placed that way!!!


For f u c K i n g real?
Um..

They unclip from the bolt quite easily like that.

FWIW, that's not me leading. I don't have QDs, only adjustable trad draws. What makes it so easy to unclip?
Because instead of the QD moving around on the biner the biner ends up moving around on the bolt more. The shorter and stiffer the draw the more dangerous it is.

IC.
Good to know, thanks.


Raining here now, and the forecase for the next three days is equally schitty. Fack.

Win some, lose some.

Send beer money, please.
if you hadn't spent so much money on gas you'd have beer money!
I bet he is less inclined to drive all over now that gas is well over $5 a gallon where he is.
Well he's a donny, they have to learn the hard way.

Oh hush...
I'm going to visit Bishop if the valley burns down, you can buy me beer.
I'm not driving to bishop to buy ewe beer.
I savez the gas moneyz!


obsessed


Jul 31, 2008, 6:39 PM
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Registered: Sep 26, 2003
Posts: 9341

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wanderlustmd wrote:
stymingersfink wrote:
Well, an update from the Dr.'s office:

Went in this afternoon and spoke with a neurologist. The general gist of the thing is this:

Sleep Deprivation.

Now, far be it from me to have the greatest sleep schedule, in fact since that ill fated morning Oct. 1 2005 I honestly haven't slept all that well with any regularity, what with the inability to self-medicate with my drug of choice, the stress of the proceedings going on, and my then-recent return to the single life. In a nutshell, my little incident last week was brought on by a severe deficit of sleep (or so we've decided). Statistically, the chances of ever having something like what happened occur again are 50:50, though if it by some quirk it DOES happen again all bets will be off.

I'll just have to take those chances. Of course, in the mean time I'll have to do what I can to stack the deck in my favor, try to get myself on some kind of regular sleep schedule and increase the quality of sleep that I DO get.

Soo... i guess I'll be off the soloing for a bit till I'm satisfied that it was a one-time event. No driving with the cruise control, no heinous gear leads in my near future either. Hell, who'm I kidding? I haven't done heinous gear leads in quite some time. Pirate

Here's hoping it was a one-time thing. Gotta start stackin' the deck in my favor for a bit, catch up on some much needed sleep quality/quantity. Hope that's enough to settle things.

Does this mean our VII 5.12 A5 plans in the Fisher Towers are off?

Take care of yourself, dude.
Okay, so I jumped right to the last before before I go back to page 181 and I read this. Have no idea what happened to you sty but it sounds bad. Hope they diagnosed it right and whatever it is won't happen agin.
Back I go. I hope I annoy the shit out of you fuckers for the next....oh 40 or so pages


obsessed


Jul 31, 2008, 6:40 PM
Post #5407 of 26795 (4553 views)
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obsessed wrote:
wanderlustmd wrote:
stymingersfink wrote:
Well, an update from the Dr.'s office:

Went in this afternoon and spoke with a neurologist. The general gist of the thing is this:

Sleep Deprivation.

Now, far be it from me to have the greatest sleep schedule, in fact since that ill fated morning Oct. 1 2005 I honestly haven't slept all that well with any regularity, what with the inability to self-medicate with my drug of choice, the stress of the proceedings going on, and my then-recent return to the single life. In a nutshell, my little incident last week was brought on by a severe deficit of sleep (or so we've decided). Statistically, the chances of ever having something like what happened occur again are 50:50, though if it by some quirk it DOES happen again all bets will be off.

I'll just have to take those chances. Of course, in the mean time I'll have to do what I can to stack the deck in my favor, try to get myself on some kind of regular sleep schedule and increase the quality of sleep that I DO get.

Soo... i guess I'll be off the soloing for a bit till I'm satisfied that it was a one-time event. No driving with the cruise control, no heinous gear leads in my near future either. Hell, who'm I kidding? I haven't done heinous gear leads in quite some time. Pirate

Here's hoping it was a one-time thing. Gotta start stackin' the deck in my favor for a bit, catch up on some much needed sleep quality/quantity. Hope that's enough to settle things.

Does this mean our VII 5.12 A5 plans in the Fisher Towers are off?

Take care of yourself, dude.
Okay, so I jumped right to the last before before I go back to page 181 and I read this. Have no idea what happened to you sty but it sounds bad. Hope they diagnosed it right and whatever it is won't happen agin.
Back I go. I hope I annoy the shit out of you fuckers for the next....oh 40 or so pages
Let me add that I miss my poor fried up lap top and this temporary computer sucks ass. <--- excuse for the typos


obsessed


Jul 31, 2008, 6:46 PM
Post #5408 of 26795 (4550 views)
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Registered: Sep 26, 2003
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     Re: [dr_feelgood] The Lounge™ [In reply to]
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dr_feelgood wrote:
we're gone from beyond gum on shoe. Maybe leftover pieces of beef from the previous night's dinner that were removed during the mastication process and then discarded to be stepped upon by an unsuspecting traveller. Regardless, I wouldn't converse with them on a regular basis.

This makes me laugh. You do have a way with words doc. We will have to see how much conversing you actually did with the turds as I read on


obsessed


Jul 31, 2008, 6:47 PM
Post #5409 of 26795 (4548 views)
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Registered: Sep 26, 2003
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     Re: [the_climber] The Lounge™ [In reply to]
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the_climber wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
we're gone from beyond gum on shoe. Maybe leftover pieces of beef from the previous night's dinner that were removed during the mastication process and then discarded to be stepped upon by an unsuspecting traveller. Regardless, I wouldn't converse with them on a regular basis.

Wine?

Red or White?
red in the winter, white in the summer. However I was given a beautiful 2003 Armonde last week that was brillient.
I know you weren't really asking, but I dont care


obsessed


Jul 31, 2008, 6:54 PM
Post #5410 of 26795 (4546 views)
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the_climber wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
In reply to:
do you reckon that by being a little bit bendy, the BD picks give a wee bit more bite in wobbly torques then other picks?
Just a thought.
Also, how much to axes cost over there (money saving scheme in mind!)
Its possible, but if you are really torquing them you might bend them permanently. But if they do bend you can pound them back. They will be more prone to bending in the future though.

I have only bent picks when only the tip was in contact an I was really reefing on them doing shallow stienpulls. It hink BD picks cost half of what a grivel or Petzl pick cost, and the picks aren't tool specific A nd ther is only one bolt to drop if you need to do a field change. And you can use another pick to tighten and loosen the bolt.

http://www.mec.ca/...;bmUID=1216391365642


Don't take that as liberty to run your mouth/keyboard in here

Sadly Grivel Picks cost more, but they aren't as tools specific as many think.
It was 26 C today and you guys are talking about ice tools!! I'm ashamed of you all


obsessed


Jul 31, 2008, 7:12 PM
Post #5411 of 26795 (4542 views)
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     Re: [artm] The Lounge™ [In reply to]
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artm wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
artm wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
the_climber wrote:
sungam wrote:
They did, the PC++ thread.
I do appreaciate that Chossy is the master of the lounge, which is why I'm attempting to aim the convo back at what it was pre-immigration fail.
As I was saying-
Chossy, do you reckon that by being a little bit bendy, the BD picks give a wee bit more bite in wobbly torques then other picks?
Just a thought.
Also, how much to axes cost over there (money saving scheme in mind!)

Way cheeper to buy tools over here. I got my DDM Flys for $150 a piece when I bought them. The Taa-k's were more, $280 or something, but that was the first year they were out.
You know, while it would be nice to stick with the BD system (right now out of three sets of tools between Nathan and I they're all BD), I really covet the Nomics. Gawd those things are sexy.

Too bad money first goes to a new pair of boots. We'll see where we're at finacially after I pick up those.
are you getting fruit boots too?
I love that to, but first a pair of regular boots that fit me better, then probobly some more screws, then a new pair of tools, and then maybe a set of fruit boots.

Not to mentions things like new ropes and such in that list too. Fruit boots are quite a ways off.
that doesn't seem quite fair, I mean Nathan has fruit boots.........why can't becca have fruit boots?

Chossy buy becca fruit boots now! Now!
You heard the king, peasant nathan....buy now


obsessed


Jul 31, 2008, 7:15 PM
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Registered: Sep 26, 2003
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sungam wrote:
artm wrote:
*haggisdonny shits pantz in rage!*
Alas! no.
And no real taerz, either.
I realised perhaps that comment means more in the US then here.
Basically I meant stop being such a twat- dunno how someone who seems allright can get his nickers in such a twist about a few people having a giraffe.
Anywhoo, Didn't get to go biking today, but (if the other dude doesn't flake again) I'll be going tomorrow- so no A.M. post whoring from me to worry about.
Back to the ice- Does anyone else feel like they never get pumped in the upper body on steep ice? My calves always seem to be the limiting factor.
Anyone got good training to get rid of this?
(p.s. I heard rumurs that it could be my boots. This I don't want to believe. But do lightweight boots like the Freny's really put that much extra load on the calves?)
[sorry that ended up so long]
I'm not reading that


obsessed


Jul 31, 2008, 7:17 PM
Post #5413 of 26795 (4538 views)
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Registered: Sep 26, 2003
Posts: 9341

     Re: [chossmonkey] The Lounge™ [In reply to]
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chossmonkey wrote:
artm wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
the_climber wrote:
sungam wrote:
They did, the PC++ thread.
I do appreaciate that Chossy is the master of the lounge, which is why I'm attempting to aim the convo back at what it was pre-immigration fail.
As I was saying-
Chossy, do you reckon that by being a little bit bendy, the BD picks give a wee bit more bite in wobbly torques then other picks?
Just a thought.
Also, how much to axes cost over there (money saving scheme in mind!)

Way cheeper to buy tools over here. I got my DDM Flys for $150 a piece when I bought them. The Taa-k's were more, $280 or something, but that was the first year they were out.
You know, while it would be nice to stick with the BD system (right now out of three sets of tools between Nathan and I they're all BD), I really covet the Nomics. Gawd those things are sexy.

Too bad money first goes to a new pair of boots. We'll see where we're at finacially after I pick up those.
are you getting fruit boots too?
Just some better ice bootz, but fruitbootz for her too would be cool.
So that means she can get fruitbootz?


dr_feelgood


Jul 31, 2008, 7:34 PM
Post #5414 of 26795 (4534 views)
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060

     Re: [obsessed] The Lounge™ [In reply to]
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obsessed wrote:
the_climber wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
In reply to:
do you reckon that by being a little bit bendy, the BD picks give a wee bit more bite in wobbly torques then other picks?
Just a thought.
Also, how much to axes cost over there (money saving scheme in mind!)
Its possible, but if you are really torquing them you might bend them permanently. But if they do bend you can pound them back. They will be more prone to bending in the future though.

I have only bent picks when only the tip was in contact an I was really reefing on them doing shallow stienpulls. It hink BD picks cost half of what a grivel or Petzl pick cost, and the picks aren't tool specific A nd ther is only one bolt to drop if you need to do a field change. And you can use another pick to tighten and loosen the bolt.

http://www.mec.ca/...;bmUID=1216391365642


Don't take that as liberty to run your mouth/keyboard in here

Sadly Grivel Picks cost more, but they aren't as tools specific as many think.
It was 26 C today and you guys are talking about ice tools!! I'm ashamed of you all
Is there something wrong?


chossmonkey


Aug 1, 2008, 4:13 AM
Post #5415 of 26795 (4526 views)
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
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     Re: [wanderlustmd] The Lounge™ [In reply to]
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wanderlustmd wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
So WMD....



What side of the slide are you on?

The right one...as soon as it dries out, that is....
They haven't even started excavating yet....
I think they have started now.

http://www.cbc.ca/...eaction.html?ref=rss


chossmonkey


Aug 1, 2008, 4:14 AM
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obsessed wrote:
Back I go. I hope I annoy the shit out of you fuckers for the next....oh 40 or so pages
Idle threats.


chossmonkey


Aug 1, 2008, 4:16 AM
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
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     Re: [obsessed] The Lounge™ [In reply to]
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obsessed wrote:
the_climber wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
In reply to:
do you reckon that by being a little bit bendy, the BD picks give a wee bit more bite in wobbly torques then other picks?
Just a thought.
Also, how much to axes cost over there (money saving scheme in mind!)
Its possible, but if you are really torquing them you might bend them permanently. But if they do bend you can pound them back. They will be more prone to bending in the future though.

I have only bent picks when only the tip was in contact an I was really reefing on them doing shallow stienpulls. It hink BD picks cost half of what a grivel or Petzl pick cost, and the picks aren't tool specific A nd ther is only one bolt to drop if you need to do a field change. And you can use another pick to tighten and loosen the bolt.

http://www.mec.ca/...;bmUID=1216391365642


Don't take that as liberty to run your mouth/keyboard in here

Sadly Grivel Picks cost more, but they aren't as tools specific as many think.
It was 26 C today and you guys are talking about ice tools!! I'm ashamed of you all
Its time to start getting in shape!


chossmonkey


Aug 1, 2008, 4:18 AM
Post #5418 of 26795 (4522 views)
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414

     Re: [obsessed] The Lounge™ [In reply to]
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obsessed wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
artm wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
the_climber wrote:
sungam wrote:
They did, the PC++ thread.
I do appreaciate that Chossy is the master of the lounge, which is why I'm attempting to aim the convo back at what it was pre-immigration fail.
As I was saying-
Chossy, do you reckon that by being a little bit bendy, the BD picks give a wee bit more bite in wobbly torques then other picks?
Just a thought.
Also, how much to axes cost over there (money saving scheme in mind!)

Way cheeper to buy tools over here. I got my DDM Flys for $150 a piece when I bought them. The Taa-k's were more, $280 or something, but that was the first year they were out.
You know, while it would be nice to stick with the BD system (right now out of three sets of tools between Nathan and I they're all BD), I really covet the Nomics. Gawd those things are sexy.

Too bad money first goes to a new pair of boots. We'll see where we're at finacially after I pick up those.
are you getting fruit boots too?
Just some better ice bootz, but fruitbootz for her too would be cool.
So that means she can get fruitbootz?
Once she starts climbing stuff they will actually work better for.


chossmonkey


Aug 1, 2008, 4:19 AM
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
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     Re: [dr_feelgood] The Lounge™ [In reply to]
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dr_feelgood wrote:
obsessed wrote:
the_climber wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
In reply to:
do you reckon that by being a little bit bendy, the BD picks give a wee bit more bite in wobbly torques then other picks?
Just a thought.
Also, how much to axes cost over there (money saving scheme in mind!)
Its possible, but if you are really torquing them you might bend them permanently. But if they do bend you can pound them back. They will be more prone to bending in the future though.

I have only bent picks when only the tip was in contact an I was really reefing on them doing shallow stienpulls. It hink BD picks cost half of what a grivel or Petzl pick cost, and the picks aren't tool specific A nd ther is only one bolt to drop if you need to do a field change. And you can use another pick to tighten and loosen the bolt.

http://www.mec.ca/...;bmUID=1216391365642


Don't take that as liberty to run your mouth/keyboard in here

Sadly Grivel Picks cost more, but they aren't as tools specific as many think.
It was 26 C today and you guys are talking about ice tools!! I'm ashamed of you all
Is there something wrong?
I don't see anything wrong.


granite_grrl


Aug 1, 2008, 4:22 AM
Post #5420 of 26795 (4519 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084

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the_climber wrote:
I hate my job.


I came the the conclusion yesterday tht I have absolutely zero job satisfaction, if fact it's so non-existant that I may infact be into negative job satisfation....


It's just a shit problem that I really do need a paycheck.




*Fingers crossed that the new jorb will come through soon*

I bet I hate my job more. The only stisfaction I get is when the pay chack arrives in my bank account.


granite_grrl


Aug 1, 2008, 4:29 AM
Post #5421 of 26795 (4517 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084

     Re: [wanderlustmd] The Lounge™ [In reply to]
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wanderlustmd wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
So WMD....



What side of the slide are you on?

The right one...as soon as it dries out, that is....
They haven't even started excavating yet....

I heard this morning that the gas stations in Whistler have run out of gas. I can only assume the same sort of thing is going on in Squamish.


the_climber


Aug 1, 2008, 7:56 AM
Post #5422 of 26795 (4503 views)
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Registered: Oct 8, 2003
Posts: 6142

     Re: [chossmonkey] The Lounge™ [In reply to]
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chossmonkey wrote:
wanderlustmd wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
So WMD....



What side of the slide are you on?

The right one...as soon as it dries out, that is....
They haven't even started excavating yet....
I think they have started now.

http://www.cbc.ca/...eaction.html?ref=rss

And here's the other shit happening in the Canadian world.
http://www.cbc.ca/...und-transcanada.html



Fucked up shit! Seriously fucked up!


the_climber


Aug 1, 2008, 7:57 AM
Post #5423 of 26795 (4502 views)
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Registered: Oct 8, 2003
Posts: 6142

     Re: [granite_grrl] The Lounge™ [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
the_climber wrote:
I hate my job.


I came the the conclusion yesterday tht I have absolutely zero job satisfaction, if fact it's so non-existant that I may infact be into negative job satisfation....


It's just a shit problem that I really do need a paycheck.




*Fingers crossed that the new jorb will come through soon*

I bet I hate my job more. The only stisfaction I get is when the pay chack arrives in my bank account.

Yeah, I'm well past that point.


granite_grrl


Aug 1, 2008, 8:45 AM
Post #5424 of 26795 (4499 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084

     Re: [the_climber] The Lounge™ [In reply to]
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the_climber wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
the_climber wrote:
I hate my job.


I came the the conclusion yesterday tht I have absolutely zero job satisfaction, if fact it's so non-existant that I may infact be into negative job satisfation....


It's just a shit problem that I really do need a paycheck.




*Fingers crossed that the new jorb will come through soon*

I bet I hate my job more. The only stisfaction I get is when the pay chack arrives in my bank account.

Yeah, I'm well past that point.
So wifey makes enough that the bills will still get paid on time without you bringing in any money?


the_climber


Aug 1, 2008, 8:54 AM
Post #5425 of 26795 (4496 views)
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Registered: Oct 8, 2003
Posts: 6142

     Re: [granite_grrl] The Lounge™ [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
the_climber wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
the_climber wrote:
I hate my job.


I came the the conclusion yesterday tht I have absolutely zero job satisfaction, if fact it's so non-existant that I may infact be into negative job satisfation....


It's just a shit problem that I really do need a paycheck.




*Fingers crossed that the new jorb will come through soon*

I bet I hate my job more. The only stisfaction I get is when the pay chack arrives in my bank account.

Yeah, I'm well past that point.
So wifey makes enough that the bills will still get paid on time without you bringing in any money?

Unfortunately no.

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