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the_climber


Aug 5, 2008, 8:58 AM
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     Re: [chossmonkey] The Lounge™ [In reply to]
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chossmonkey wrote:
obsessed wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
the_climber wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
the_climber wrote:
epoch wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
the_climber wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
the_climber wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
the_climber wrote:
Slow day in here.

Rebecca is busy at work.


I have had a shitty day.


I hate my job.

There is alway cold beer at the end of the day.
And maybe if she plays her cards right, AND washes her feet, she might get a foot rub.
To fuckin' funny!
Well, I do have to wear steel toed safety shoes all day. I can't really blame him.
It's not the shooz, its the synthetic socks.


And the feet.Tongue
climber not shoooz!

I like tube-style belay devices over the gri-gri.

[btw: obtained the Reverso 3 this weekend. Far superior to the ATCGuide.]

Had to retire my original (yes original, not the 2nd gen one with the ridges) Reverso a couple weeks ago. I was getting t3e Sharpz edgez! Frown

Still waiting for someone to get the Reverso 3 in stock here... As I cannot find my old stitch plate (my first belay device) I have had to resort to t3e ATC Mad
It took you that long to retire your original Reverso?

You can grind down the sharp edges.


I gave away my Reverso to Zomb_E cause it sucked.
Yes it did. Yes I have rounded the edges once before. And no it doesn't suck.

And yes I'm waiting for the new one.
Oh, and I think I remember where I put my Stitch Plate. Whoo!
My biggest bitch was the lack of fricton when belaying or rappeling.

Rebecca's Reverso 1.0 is hanging on the gear wall in the basement collecting dust. You'd have to work a deal out with her though.
I think I should work a deal out with her on that, not the axemurderer
Why?

There are way better devices than the reverso. If you need a device we have a bunch we don't use anymore.

Well it's not the ATC.

Found my stitch plate BTW.


kachoong


Aug 5, 2008, 9:35 AM
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chossmonkey wrote:
kachoong wrote:

Hahahahaaa! Yeah, he sure is... my friend started when I did and quickly became better than me within the first five years.
Quickly? Over 5 years?


I really wouldn't say that as quickly unless he went to onsighting 5.12 on gear in that time.


Just think of how many gymrats have gone from beginner to 5.14 and then disappeared in 5 years.

I guess I should have expanded... for a year we were on par but he quickly became stronger and could do moves I couldn't... I think it was because he is shorter and needed to work out intermediate moves for those I could reach.... but it's more likely that he's just better! It was over the first five years he excelled, being able to onsight 5.12 on gear and 5.13 sport, as you said. Then one year later I gained on him, but not completely. He regressed a little in the middle years as did I, but now he's back up to where he was before... and me? Well, I'm still in a recession... I mean look at my PC! Wink


kachoong


Aug 5, 2008, 9:37 AM
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chossmonkey wrote:
I am one hurt unit today. My whole body is sore. I'm kinda happy we didn't have all three days this weekend.


Bec repeated her hardest RP and made some good progress on her new project. I onsighted two 7b's on sunday. Even if Jack downrates them to 7a+ its still the first time I've onsighted two on the same day. Monday I cleaned the mud and cobwebs out of the Monument and started taking my licks again on that.

Sounds great!! You guys are cookin' with gas now! Nice work G_G!!


chossmonkey


Aug 5, 2008, 10:31 AM
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kachoong wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
kachoong wrote:

Hahahahaaa! Yeah, he sure is... my friend started when I did and quickly became better than me within the first five years.
Quickly? Over 5 years?


I really wouldn't say that as quickly unless he went to onsighting 5.12 on gear in that time.


Just think of how many gymrats have gone from beginner to 5.14 and then disappeared in 5 years.

I guess I should have expanded... for a year we were on par but he quickly became stronger and could do moves I couldn't... I think it was because he is shorter and needed to work out intermediate moves for those I could reach.... but it's more likely that he's just better! It was over the first five years he excelled, being able to onsight 5.12 on gear and 5.13 sport, as you said. Then one year later I gained on him, but not completely. He regressed a little in the middle years as did I, but now he's back up to where he was before... and me? Well, I'm still in a recession... I mean look at my PC! Wink
My PC is getting huge and it is very likely I have never been climbing better.Tongue


the_climber


Aug 5, 2008, 10:37 AM
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chossmonkey wrote:
kachoong wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
kachoong wrote:

Hahahahaaa! Yeah, he sure is... my friend started when I did and quickly became better than me within the first five years.
Quickly? Over 5 years?


I really wouldn't say that as quickly unless he went to onsighting 5.12 on gear in that time.


Just think of how many gymrats have gone from beginner to 5.14 and then disappeared in 5 years.

I guess I should have expanded... for a year we were on par but he quickly became stronger and could do moves I couldn't... I think it was because he is shorter and needed to work out intermediate moves for those I could reach.... but it's more likely that he's just better! It was over the first five years he excelled, being able to onsight 5.12 on gear and 5.13 sport, as you said. Then one year later I gained on him, but not completely. He regressed a little in the middle years as did I, but now he's back up to where he was before... and me? Well, I'm still in a recession... I mean look at my PC! Wink
My PC is getting huge and it is very likely I have never been climbing better.Tongue

Meh, my PC is getting up there, and I'm still climbing not too bad either.... well at least after I get that first pitch over with. Not sure what's up with that, I seem to be climbin better these days after I get more than one pitch up, regardless of whether or not I've warmed up. Seems like I'm just not in the right midset close to the ground... odd thing.


(This post was edited by the_climber on Aug 5, 2008, 10:38 AM)


chossmonkey


Aug 5, 2008, 11:05 AM
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the_climber wrote:
Not sure what's up with that, I seem to be climbin better these days after I get more than one pitch up, regardless of whether or not I've warmed up. Seems like I'm just not in the right midset close to the ground... odd thing.
Not really. I have a mortal fear of hitting the ground.


Though since you climb the low angle stuff you might have a point since there is still always stuff to hit.


granite_grrl


Aug 5, 2008, 11:26 AM
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     Re: [chossmonkey] The Lounge™ [In reply to]
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I was telling Nathan about this photo yesterday when he was working the monunment.


http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ace_Roof_100175.html

He's going backwards. Its kinda like that posed photo of Sonnie Trotter on the Monument. It is assumed it is posed 'cause there's really no way to climb it facing the direction he's in.

I wish I could find that photo of Sonnie....maybe someone else can cough it up.


the_climber


Aug 5, 2008, 11:40 AM
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chossmonkey wrote:
the_climber wrote:
Not sure what's up with that, I seem to be climbin better these days after I get more than one pitch up, regardless of whether or not I've warmed up. Seems like I'm just not in the right midset close to the ground... odd thing.
Not really. I have a mortal fear of hitting the ground.


Though since you climb the low angle stuff you might have a point since there is still always stuff to hit.

I did pull through 5 roof on the slab route I was on last Saturday. Does that count as steep?

Oh, wait... yes... the landingCrazy


chossmonkey


Aug 5, 2008, 11:51 AM
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granite_grrl wrote:
I was telling Nathan about this photo yesterday when he was working the monunment.


http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ace_Roof_100175.html

He's going backwards. Its kinda like that posed photo of Sonnie Trotter on the Monument. It is assumed it is posed 'cause there's really no way to climb it facing the direction he's in.

I wish I could find that photo of Sonnie....maybe someone else can cough it up.
Sometimes it is easier to pull the lip feet first. Its impossible to tell from that pic. It is a shitty pic anyway so I doubt it is posed.


kachoong


Aug 5, 2008, 12:29 PM
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the_climber wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
kachoong wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
kachoong wrote:

Hahahahaaa! Yeah, he sure is... my friend started when I did and quickly became better than me within the first five years.
Quickly? Over 5 years?


I really wouldn't say that as quickly unless he went to onsighting 5.12 on gear in that time.


Just think of how many gymrats have gone from beginner to 5.14 and then disappeared in 5 years.

I guess I should have expanded... for a year we were on par but he quickly became stronger and could do moves I couldn't... I think it was because he is shorter and needed to work out intermediate moves for those I could reach.... but it's more likely that he's just better! It was over the first five years he excelled, being able to onsight 5.12 on gear and 5.13 sport, as you said. Then one year later I gained on him, but not completely. He regressed a little in the middle years as did I, but now he's back up to where he was before... and me? Well, I'm still in a recession... I mean look at my PC! Wink
My PC is getting huge and it is very likely I have never been climbing better.Tongue

Meh, my PC is getting up there, and I'm still climbing not too bad either.... well at least after I get that first pitch over with. Not sure what's up with that, I seem to be climbin better these days after I get more than one pitch up, regardless of whether or not I've warmed up. Seems like I'm just not in the right midset close to the ground... odd thing.

No worries... sounds like a normal reaction... I too am fine after the first lead... and actually I prefer to lead first if I'm in a group.... I also feel much better after taking a short fall to loosen all the nerve endings.

Last two years I've been climbing predominantly inside and feeling strong, but that's really NO indication of how I'm climbing. I rarely go out coz there's not much around and hadn't many opportunity. I see myself on a plateau for a couple of years. Unsure


caughtinside


Aug 5, 2008, 12:37 PM
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chossmonkey wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
I was telling Nathan about this photo yesterday when he was working the monunment.


http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ace_Roof_100175.html

He's going backwards. Its kinda like that posed photo of Sonnie Trotter on the Monument. It is assumed it is posed 'cause there's really no way to climb it facing the direction he's in.

I wish I could find that photo of Sonnie....maybe someone else can cough it up.
Sometimes it is easier to pull the lip feet first. Its impossible to tell from that pic. It is a shitty pic anyway so I doubt it is posed.

I think the caption on this said it was the successful FA ascent.

If you check out the youtubes of Separate Reality (there are a couple very good ones) everyone pulls the roof feet first.


the_climber


Aug 5, 2008, 12:39 PM
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     Re: [kachoong] The Lounge™ [In reply to]
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kachoong wrote:
the_climber wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
kachoong wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
kachoong wrote:

Hahahahaaa! Yeah, he sure is... my friend started when I did and quickly became better than me within the first five years.
Quickly? Over 5 years?


I really wouldn't say that as quickly unless he went to onsighting 5.12 on gear in that time.


Just think of how many gymrats have gone from beginner to 5.14 and then disappeared in 5 years.

I guess I should have expanded... for a year we were on par but he quickly became stronger and could do moves I couldn't... I think it was because he is shorter and needed to work out intermediate moves for those I could reach.... but it's more likely that he's just better! It was over the first five years he excelled, being able to onsight 5.12 on gear and 5.13 sport, as you said. Then one year later I gained on him, but not completely. He regressed a little in the middle years as did I, but now he's back up to where he was before... and me? Well, I'm still in a recession... I mean look at my PC! Wink
My PC is getting huge and it is very likely I have never been climbing better.Tongue

Meh, my PC is getting up there, and I'm still climbing not too bad either.... well at least after I get that first pitch over with. Not sure what's up with that, I seem to be climbin better these days after I get more than one pitch up, regardless of whether or not I've warmed up. Seems like I'm just not in the right midset close to the ground... odd thing.

No worries... sounds like a normal reaction... I too am fine after the first lead... and actually I prefer to lead first if I'm in a group.... I also feel much better after taking a short fall to loosen all the nerve endings.

Last two years I've been climbing predominantly inside and feeling strong, but that's really NO indication of how I'm climbing. I rarely go out coz there's not much around and hadn't many opportunity. I see myself on a plateau for a couple of years. Unsure

No, no, no, not after the first lead of the day.... doesn't matter if I've warmed up on something, I seem to be climbing better the highter I get up.

The other wierd thing I noticed when climbing another route a while ago... The start of the route was wet so I went up the start of a spot climb to get around it. Damn near flailed on the 5.6 sport moves, walked up the rest of the 5.8 trad route like it was nothing. It's got to be a mindset thing, cause the next couple days out after that I was doign great new routing at a 5.8/5.9 level, cleaning as I climbed.... gotta be mindset. Either that or I'm fucked in the head and crazy... Oh, look! I found the answer.


(This post was edited by the_climber on Aug 5, 2008, 12:39 PM)


chossmonkey


Aug 5, 2008, 12:43 PM
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caughtinside wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
I was telling Nathan about this photo yesterday when he was working the monunment.


http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ace_Roof_100175.html

He's going backwards. Its kinda like that posed photo of Sonnie Trotter on the Monument. It is assumed it is posed 'cause there's really no way to climb it facing the direction he's in.

I wish I could find that photo of Sonnie....maybe someone else can cough it up.
Sometimes it is easier to pull the lip feet first. Its impossible to tell from that pic. It is a shitty pic anyway so I doubt it is posed.

I think the caption on this said it was the successful FA ascent.

If you check out the youtubes of Separate Reality (there are a couple very good ones) everyone pulls the roof feet first.
Thanks for ruining my chances to onsight SR.

Asshat!!

Now I'll have to do it not feet first.


Also, Rebecca asked, and the guy said it was easier to pull feet first.


the_climber


Aug 5, 2008, 12:44 PM
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Hey Nathan, you hear something?



Sounded like a cat got it's balls stuck on a car battery.


chossmonkey


Aug 5, 2008, 12:48 PM
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the_climber wrote:
Hey Nathan, you hear something?



Sounded like a cat got it's balls stuck on a car battery.
Yeah, I got confused and thought I was in the other thread.


caughtinside


Aug 5, 2008, 12:52 PM
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chossmonkey wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
I was telling Nathan about this photo yesterday when he was working the monunment.


http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ace_Roof_100175.html

He's going backwards. Its kinda like that posed photo of Sonnie Trotter on the Monument. It is assumed it is posed 'cause there's really no way to climb it facing the direction he's in.

I wish I could find that photo of Sonnie....maybe someone else can cough it up.
Sometimes it is easier to pull the lip feet first. Its impossible to tell from that pic. It is a shitty pic anyway so I doubt it is posed.

I think the caption on this said it was the successful FA ascent.

If you check out the youtubes of Separate Reality (there are a couple very good ones) everyone pulls the roof feet first.
Thanks for ruining my chances to onsight SR.

Asshat!!

Now I'll have to do it not feet first.


Also, Rebecca asked, and the guy said it was easier to pull feet first.

Like you'll ever make it to yosemite. You wouldn't be able to resist stopping at the 800 climbing areas between you and the valley. You'd need 3 years to get here.


the_climber


Aug 5, 2008, 1:02 PM
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chossmonkey wrote:
the_climber wrote:
Hey Nathan, you hear something?



Sounded like a cat got it's balls stuck on a car battery.
Yeah, I got confused and thought I was in the other thread.

Fuck there is goes again. Did I say cat the first time? I think it was a Squirrel. Squirrel nuts caught in the battery, fried nuts.


(This post was edited by the_climber on Aug 5, 2008, 1:04 PM)


the_climber


Aug 5, 2008, 1:03 PM
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This day sucks big ass donkey ballz.


Partner artm


Aug 5, 2008, 1:15 PM
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kachoong wrote:
artm wrote:
kachoong wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
kachoong wrote:
wanderlustmd wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
So WMD....



What side of the slide are you on?

The right one...as soon as it dries out, that is....
They haven't even started excavating yet....

What I would give to be stuck in Squish right now! *sigh* Unsure

My best friend from Aus is turning up with his wife in Van this weekend and will be shocked to find out he can't get up to Squamish. Once he does finally make it he should be able to tear that place up!
Did they post somewhere on this site. Or am I just confused with somethign else?

Oh no, they don't post on here... I also wonder if they knew before flying out on the 1st about the landslide.
Oh, so they're REAL climbers than...

Hahahahaaa! Yeah, he sure is... my friend started when I did and quickly became better than me within the first five years. He then went to better pastures, while I ended up blorting and eventually posting here with climbing in between.

He knows Simon Carter quite well and is good friends with John Fantini. I think he's going to be climbing with Mike Law Smith on his travel around NW America during the next three months. Although great Australian climbers like them aren't too well known over here.
I've heard of Simon Carter.


Partner artm


Aug 5, 2008, 1:16 PM
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kachoong wrote:
artm wrote:
epoch wrote:
Braaawwwr roar brawwwwwwwwwwwwwr brrrrawr
broowwwrr, brooowwr, yaaarrrr, brooowwrrrr yaarrrr broooowwwrrrr

Hear the roar and feel the wrath of the modzzz..... It's the last thing you hear before da banzing!!
We fear no modz.
aren't you just a foto editor?


Partner artm


Aug 5, 2008, 1:18 PM
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chossmonkey wrote:
artm wrote:
obsessed wrote:
artm wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
And it is Partygirl's b-day.
Happy bday Witchy-poo!
Thank you art. Even though I'm reading this 2 weeks after that fact.
Did you get anything cool?
Some shooz.


The funny thing is when she was over she was blaming the shooz for not climbing good. So I did the route she was working on barefoot.Cool
Is climer nut shooz!


Arrogant_Bastard


Aug 5, 2008, 3:14 PM
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stymingersfink wrote:
no PC++... but i do have a few pics people like over there. They have a much better photo db over there if you ask me..

Thanks for the link, I'll go shit on all your pics Tongue

I think their routes db is far better too. Infact most everything is, except the forums when it comes to fun. And PC++


the_climber


Aug 5, 2008, 3:17 PM
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I'M EITHER GOING TO HAVE TO LEAVE EARLY, OR KNOCK THE FUCK OUT A FEW OF MY CO-WORKERS.

One or the other. This day is shit.


Arrogant_Bastard


Aug 5, 2008, 3:20 PM
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VLR??


Arrogant_Bastard


Aug 5, 2008, 3:20 PM
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Damnz. Premature again.

Viva La Revolucion!!!

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