Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing:
Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Trad Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


zealotnoob


Apr 30, 2008, 9:37 AM
Post #1 of 57 (3949 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 1, 2006
Posts: 525

Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Based in DC, it's hard to get to the good stuff. I'm looking for big objectives where I can fly in on a Friday night, climb on Sat and leave on Sunday.

Does anyone know if the Casual Route on the Diamond could go down like this?

Epinephrine?

Tuolumne?

Other ideas?


(This post was edited by zealotnoob on Apr 30, 2008, 11:18 AM)


petsfed


Apr 30, 2008, 9:49 AM
Post #2 of 57 (3934 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 24, 2002
Posts: 8599

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

zealotnoob wrote:
Based in DC, it's hard to get to the good stuff. I'm looking for big objectives where I can fly in on a Firday night, climb on Sat and leave on Sunday.

Does anyone know if the Casual Route on the Diamond could go down like this?

Epinephrine?

Tuolumne?

Other ideas?

Casual's typically done in a day, but the altitude and the approach will kick the shit out of you. Epinephrine could go that way, although its hardly alpine, just really long.


jkd159


Apr 30, 2008, 10:17 AM
Post #3 of 57 (3909 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 29, 2007
Posts: 64

Re: [petsfed] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I wouldn't want to go from DC (sea level) to the top of the Diamond (14000') in a day.

Even the climbs at Tuolumne start around 9000'. I suppose there is plenty of mellow climbing that would be possible in the sort of weekend you describe. Fairview Dome, Cathedral, Matthes Crest and about a zillion others.

Epinephrine is an easy weekend as long as you are up to climbing the chimneys. Close to the airport, reasonable approach, etc. The time zone change helps you get an alpine start on Saturday. Exactly what you are looking for. Except it is not exactly alpine.

I'm trying to think where you would find low altitude alpine climbs that wouldn't require acclimatization. NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire tops out around 10500' but the logistics of flying in, doing the approach, climbing the route, and getting out are probably not possible in a weekend.


jjanowia


Apr 30, 2008, 10:21 AM
Post #4 of 57 (3907 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 20, 2005
Posts: 126

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Off the top of my head, some other climbs from Roper & Steck's list that are adjacent to airports:

Fly into Seattle:
-North ridge (or complete north ridge) of Mt. Stuart goes in a day if you can simulclimb easy terrain. Otherwise, a weekend trip.
-Any of the ridges of Forbidden Peak are rad. I've known several folk who have headed out there for a day, but had to bivy since they couldn't get off the thing as easily as they'd liked.
Fly into Vancouver:
-Northeast Buttress of Mt. Slesse. You may have to get creative in terms of transportation - perhaps try to find a local to meet you at your car, drive you to the logical starting point (they are not one in the same). If you're a baller, you can also get choppered from your car to the start point (they say, I know nothing about it).


zealotnoob


Apr 30, 2008, 11:37 AM
Post #5 of 57 (3867 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 1, 2006
Posts: 525

Re: [jkd159] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yeah. 0-14k in a day would be brutal. Would have to take at least a day off.

That Buggaboo spire is gorgeous. I'll have to look into that more...but a weekend trip sounds unlikely.

How far is the drive from the airport to Tuolumne?


tolman_paul


Apr 30, 2008, 11:58 AM
Post #6 of 57 (3852 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 22, 2005
Posts: 385

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Closest airport to the medows would be Reno, and you'd be looking at probably 4hrs. Fairview will be crazy busy on a weekend, so you'd want to start at say 6AM.

If you were in kickazz shape you might be able to handle the fly and drive all night, and start climbing at ~9000' elevation. But more than likely it'll kick your butt, hard.

Tried the middle cathedral on a weekend, ended up leaving too late on a Friday, drove all night, and started at 3AM. We cruised the first 6 pitches, I got a bit winded on the 7th, and litterally passed out after anchoring in while my partner was jugging the line. Great plan, poor execution.

For all the travel time and expense, it doesn't make any sense to do a major trip for less than a week. Especially with alpine routes that all require one to factor in weather windows. Would more than suck to show up for your one day climb in the rain.


ryanb


Apr 30, 2008, 12:16 PM
Post #7 of 57 (3834 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 4, 2004
Posts: 832

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Washington/North_Cascades/Washington_Pass/

http://www.summitpost.org/area/range/171026/liberty-bell-group.html

This is about the most easily approachable true alpine area in the country. 2-3 hours from Sea Tac air port, <1 hour approaches. Low elevation, routes from 5.6 - 5.13 up to grade V.

Downside is that it gets real mountain weather due to proximity to the coast and its hard to guarantee a good weekend far in advance, most people who go for the weekend come prepared to spend the day cragging an hour or two east in the rain shadow (mazamma and/or leavenworth) if weather roles in.

I suggest moving. That will cut down on the carbon footprint of cross country flights and facilitate a more relaxed attitude towards life.


forkliftdaddy


Apr 30, 2008, 12:20 PM
Post #8 of 57 (3832 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 3, 2003
Posts: 408

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Long routes in Vegas are very possible over a weekend. Although they may be crowded, you are unlikely to face altitude-related problems.

RE: higher peaks, I think that if you fly into Jackson you could make it up something in the Tetons. Also, the Incredible Hulk trailhead is about 3 hours from Reno. You can be wading through the beaver dammed muck in short order. You may face weather and altitude issues in both places, however.


skinnyclimber


Apr 30, 2008, 12:29 PM
Post #9 of 57 (3826 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 27, 2005
Posts: 406

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

zealotnoob wrote:
Yeah. 0-14k in a day would be brutal. Would have to take at least a day off.

I have read about acclimatization machines where you wear a mask and and it cycles you through various air pressures for a few hours. I don't know much about them other than that they exist. Just thought I'd throw that out there....

I second the vote for trying not to use too much fossil fuels to get to the crags, but that's another thread

Good luck!!


elvislegs


Apr 30, 2008, 12:31 PM
Post #10 of 57 (3823 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 24, 2002
Posts: 3148

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

the elephant's perch, in the sawtooth range, here in idaho, can go that way if you're up to it.
fly into boise, stanley is about 2.5 hour drive from there. then theres a short boat ride across the lake and 1.5 hr hike to put you at the bottom of many 7 to 10 pitch routes ranging from 5.8-5.13 on superb, clean, granite.
elevation is around 8400 ft at the base, and not quite 10,000 ft. on top.
we did it car to car last summer from redfish lake in about 8 hours, so a weekend should be doable.

a couple of my friends did the east buttress of el cap. over a weekend last year. they didn't fly, they took an extra day and drove from boise (11 hours). seems like you could do it though, flying into sacramento, or san jose maybe?


k.l.k


Apr 30, 2008, 12:39 PM
Post #11 of 57 (3817 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 9, 2007
Posts: 1190

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I would 2nd the Vegas recommendation-- shorter flight, crags close to the airport, and the elevation isn't too stiff.

The Rockies and Sierras are not a good idea for a flatlander weekend out of DC., because of the mix of altitude + jetlag.

Liberty Bell is great, but 2-3hrs from Sea-Tac is really optimistic. Slesse, Forbidden, + Stuart all would be really grim after a cross-country flight and the hours of driving from SeaTac.

You should think about Grand Wall in Squamish. Get a passport and fly into Vancouver. 2hrs by car, and the wall is roadside. Not really any less alpine than Liberty Bell. If it rains (and it will), you can get out the aiders and go to town w/o Yosemite style lines.

And really, if you're already on the East Coast, instead of flying five to six hours cross-country and then driving for 3-4 hrs with jet lag, just take off a F or M or both; fly straight into Geneva; and drive/train an hour to Chamonix. Then you'll take the peripherique up to yr climb, bag it, get drunk, and head home.


zealotnoob


Apr 30, 2008, 1:06 PM
Post #12 of 57 (3799 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 1, 2006
Posts: 525

Re: [k.l.k] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Re: alttitude, I did Mt Conness (12,500') via the North Ridge last summer without much issue. Though, I'm sure going higher than that without time to acclimate would be asking for it.

Chamonix would be great, of course...but the price of plane tickets, for such a short trip, is a large factor. This makes Canada difficult as well.

I'd like to figure out all of the aiports with plausible objectives nearby so I can keep an eye out for last minute deals...

There always seem to be cheap flights to Vegas...not exactly alpine, however...


scuclimber


Apr 30, 2008, 2:12 PM
Post #13 of 57 (3762 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 30, 2003
Posts: 1007

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Stuff in Tuolumne is doable in a weekend from sea level if you're in shape and competent. For Tuolumne I'd fly into Reno. For the Valley, I'd say San Jose or Sacto (or Oakland or SFO, depending on fares and timing really).


brutusofwyde


Apr 30, 2008, 4:14 PM
Post #14 of 57 (3725 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473

Re: [scuclimber] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yosemite: (not really alpine, but otoh just as alpine as Red Rocks):
DNB
LA Chimney
YPB
Astroman
Steck-Salathe
EB El Cap
EB Middle Cathedral Rock
EB Lower Cathedral Rock
Half Dome regular route
Chouinard-Herbert
Serenity/Sons
Arrowhead Arete

Red Rocks:
Eagle Dance
Levitation 29
Rainbow Buttress
Epinepherine
Frigid Air Buttress
Resolution Arete
Bridge Mountain Traverse
Crimson Chrysalis
Ginger Cracks
Black Orpheus
Olive Oil

Sierra High Country:
Harding route Mt. Conness
South Face Charlotte Dome
East Face routes Mt. Whitney
(Including Direct East Face and Great Book)
E. Face Keeler Needle
East Face Day Needle
Lone Pine Peak south face routes
N Ridge Lone Pine Peak

Second the thoughts on Elephant's Perch. Stellar area.

Washington Pass generally has much, much better weather than Slesse and other nearby areas.

Be aware that on Slesse (as with many other alpine routes) weather is key, and betting your trip on good weather there is long odds.

hope this helps.

Brutus


localshredder


Apr 30, 2008, 4:24 PM
Post #15 of 57 (3714 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 22, 2005
Posts: 55

Re: [brutusofwyde] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

What about Zion?


brutusofwyde


Apr 30, 2008, 4:40 PM
Post #16 of 57 (3706 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473

Re: [localshredder] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Maybe Zion! I'm not too familiar with it.

Come to think of it, theres also the stuff out of Moab-- Castle Valley, Fisher Towers...


zealotnoob


May 1, 2008, 6:16 AM
Post #17 of 57 (3676 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 1, 2006
Posts: 525

Re: [brutusofwyde] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Someone mentioned the Hulk... I was just reading up on the Red Dihedral route. It gets sun from noon to sunset which would be idea for flying into Reno and driving up Friday night...then completing the approach in the morning and climbing into the evening. Can any comment on this route and whether or not this sounds feasible?


cclarke


May 1, 2008, 8:25 AM
Post #18 of 57 (3649 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 25, 2003
Posts: 160

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Re: Hulk

I wouldn't do it that way. It's certainly possible but it wouldn't be a lot of fun. Great route but a little acclimatization will make the approach and the climb way more enjoyable.

I assume you have done all the routes at Cannon? That's a very easy weekend from DC with a cheap flight to Manchester.


zealotnoob


May 1, 2008, 8:38 AM
Post #19 of 57 (3641 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 1, 2006
Posts: 525

Re: [cclarke] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

No, I haven't been to Canon. I've driven all the way up to Wallface in the Dacks for a weekend, but Canon is just too far. And if I'm goign to fly, why not head west? I'll climb at Canon one of these days...


cclarke


May 1, 2008, 8:54 AM
Post #20 of 57 (3625 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 25, 2003
Posts: 160

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Well, you can do it. I've done very short trips from DC to Tahquitz/Suicide, Vegas and Yosemite over the years but the potential for getting shutdown entirely is pretty real and I find the travel pretty gruelling.

The Southwest flights from BWI to Manchester, NH are frequent, cheap and easy so it's no big deal to go up there several times a season. You can get two full days of climbing in a regular weekend which is tough to manage with a trip west unless you can find really optimal flight times.


antiqued


May 1, 2008, 9:41 AM
Post #21 of 57 (3605 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 18, 2005
Posts: 243

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Re Boise - check flight schedules - it takes me 2 days to do an afternoon meeting in Boise.

Unless you can take a good chunk of Friday afternoon off for airport security, it might be much easier to break in with the Rockies - shorter flights, closer cliffs, quicker returns will allow you 2 days of climbing. To get 2 days in the Sierra will require a redeye return flight.

Besides the Diamond, there are tons of long climbs in RMNP, many with shorter approaches - Hallett's, Grepon, Notchtop, .....

And although I haven't climbed there, there are long rock routes in the Sandias, just above Albuquerque.


brutusofwyde


May 1, 2008, 9:45 AM
Post #22 of 57 (3601 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473

Re: [cclarke] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Sounds to me like the best option is to do long climbs with short approaches. Red Rocks, Zion, Fishers, and Yosemite fit the bill there.


cclarke


May 1, 2008, 9:49 AM
Post #23 of 57 (3598 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 25, 2003
Posts: 160

Re: [antiqued] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I've climbed a few weeks in the Sandias. It would also make good choice for a short trip. The tram access for many routes is a very nice feature. Fairly reliable weather too. And virtually no driving from the airport.


munky


May 1, 2008, 9:52 AM
Post #24 of 57 (3594 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 26, 2006
Posts: 358

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If you are familiar with Mt. Conness and felt fine out there without aclimating then you should try the Harding Route on the Southwest Face of Conness. Its about the same difficulty as the Casual route on the Diamond but not nearly as likely to be crowded, nor as likely to have bad weather. Also the approach via the snow and ice to the Diamond can take more than a day if its your first time out there. I've never noticed the altitude coming from the East coast but have been with partners who have definitely been disabled by it.


petsfed


May 1, 2008, 10:00 AM
Post #25 of 57 (3586 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 24, 2002
Posts: 8599

Re: [brutusofwyde] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

brutusofwyde wrote:
Sounds to me like the best option is to do long climbs with short approaches. Red Rocks, Zion, Fishers, and Yosemite fit the bill there.

Wait, what?! If you've never climbed in the Fishers, or done a lot of aid climbing, I'd avoid attempting many routes in a day there. The rock is incredibly crumbly, so you need to learn how to move before you try to move fast. Ancient Art will go quickly since its mostly free, same with a few others, but most are sustained, tricky aid. You have to learn what the rock will hold before you cast off into the abyss.


zealotnoob


May 1, 2008, 10:10 AM
Post #26 of 57 (2141 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 1, 2006
Posts: 525

Re: [munky] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Damn, it's nice to see some hard trad climbers from the NOVA/DC area...


I've read trip reports that made the Harding Route sound exceptionally burly and sketchy. Do have expereience otherwise?


brutusofwyde


May 1, 2008, 10:50 AM
Post #27 of 57 (2130 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473

Re: [petsfed] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

petsfed wrote:
brutusofwyde wrote:
Sounds to me like the best option is to do long climbs with short approaches. Red Rocks, Zion, Fishers, and Yosemite fit the bill there.

Wait, what?! If you've never climbed in the Fishers, or done a lot of aid climbing, I'd avoid attempting many routes in a day there. The rock is incredibly crumbly, so you need to learn how to move before you try to move fast. Ancient Art will go quickly since its mostly free, same with a few others, but most are sustained, tricky aid. You have to learn what the rock will hold before you cast off into the abyss.

Yup, I was thinking of ancient art and a few others.

As far as Harding Route -- Yes, it is a climb of a lifetime. But doable in a weekend. Mine may have been one of the trip reports you read. I would venture to say that it is not a good early season climb, but it can definitely get better/more stable weather than -- say -- the Diamond.

Brutus


cchas


May 4, 2008, 9:22 PM
Post #28 of 57 (2089 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 9, 2005
Posts: 344

Re: [brutusofwyde] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Red Dihedral on the Hulk can EASILY be done in a day car-car. It would be best flying to Reno and driving down to Bridgeport to do this.

As for the altitiude change in the Sierras I'd say it depends on how you acclimate. I used to go from the Bay Area (sea level) all the time and never had an issue.

I didn't notice at what level you are used to, and how many pitches in a day are reasonable. For some people 35 pitches are reasonable and for others 10pitches (such as the E Butt of Middle Cathedral) will involve a bivi, or if you are comfortable with cracks, OW's, runout faces...... Such info would be helpful when people are making suggestions


donald949


May 5, 2008, 3:35 PM
Post #29 of 57 (2070 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 24, 2007
Posts: 11455

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

A number of people mentioned Flying to Reno, but not the climbing in Tahoe. Lover leap being one popular option, all be it not technically Alpine. Cruise the data base here for more info.
Don


scuclimber


May 5, 2008, 4:22 PM
Post #30 of 57 (2063 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 30, 2003
Posts: 1007

Re: [donald949] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

donald949 wrote:
A number of people mentioned Flying to Reno, but not the climbing in Tahoe. Lover leap being one popular option, all be it not technically Alpine. Cruise the data base here for more info.
Don

Yeah, the Leap is definitely amazing. But, as you said, it's not "alpine." And it's also not "long." 3- or 4-pitch routes v. the ~8- to 10+pitch routes mentioned elsewhere in this thread.


zealotnoob


May 6, 2008, 5:23 AM
Post #31 of 57 (2046 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 1, 2006
Posts: 525

Re: [cchas] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Well, I'm definately not in the 35 pitch category and my alpine resume is short.

-The Diagonal III 5.8 on Wallface in the Dacks
-The North Ridge III 5.6 on Mt Conness
-The Monzino Route V 5.10 650m on Torre Norte in Paine
-Taller del Sol V 5.10+ 600m on Torre Norte in Paine
-Bulgarian Route 6a 450m on Aguja de la S in El Chalten

The longer the better, up to 5.10.


(This post was edited by zealotnoob on May 6, 2008, 6:38 AM)


0x2102


May 6, 2008, 7:02 AM
Post #32 of 57 (2030 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 17, 2005
Posts: 115

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

How about looking south? Not alpine, but not an all day plane ride either:

Whitesides NC
Laurel Knob NC

If you're looking for long rock routes, doable in a weekend, there ya go...


zealotnoob


May 6, 2008, 7:08 AM
Post #33 of 57 (2023 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 1, 2006
Posts: 525

Re: [0x2102] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

It is an epic drive however. I would like to check those places out. Laurel Knob is the place that jsut opened, right? Any must-do routes?


altelis


May 6, 2008, 7:09 AM
Post #34 of 57 (2023 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 2168

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

as someone from dc, who loves alpine, and has dealt with trying to get my fix as often as possible, i would suggest a different game plan.

you've got the experience to know that planning a weekend trip REQUIRING a weather window planned from far in advance is a recipe for a lot of not climbing. you are asking for a lot of not climbing

i would suggest hit seneca, the daks, the gunks, conway, etc as much as you can. get mileage in. use the long drives as a sort of training for long days/weekends. when you get to your destination put in as many pitches as you can between dawn and dusk. figure out massive linkups, preferably with some hiking between routes to keep you moving.

save your money and your time off work. than just take a long trip (at least a week). good weather, awesome, you'll be in shape and can climb a bunch of big routes. bad weather, hopefully you'll have a least one climbing day.

i think you'll also find that expenses are LESS if you don't try to rush the logistics. weather is so important and so volatile in the alpine its not worth pushing a weekend window unless you don't need to pony up for a plane ticket.

by the way, i moved back to dc from slc recently and am jonsing to climb. you ever need a partner (i do it all, boulder, trad, sport, alpine, aid....), drop me a pm!


cchas


May 6, 2008, 7:20 AM
Post #35 of 57 (2018 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 9, 2005
Posts: 344

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You would definately LOVE the Incredible Hulk then. The setting is gorgous, and by in large the weather is very stable (if there is instability it would be afternoon thunderstorms) but you can be up and down the thing if you do the red dihedral before that is an issue.

It would be too bad to do it as a 1 day trip after flying that far (but it makes what you have to fly with SO much lighter though) since there is so much to do out there, Outguard Spire,....

Also if you are an endurance junkie you can do Clyde Minaret (east face is about 5.7/5.8 and the direct start is better with a pitch of 5.10a and 5.9). It would involve a 9mile approach (if you start real early like at 2 or 3am, and can drive to the trailhead without having to take the bus otherwise it adds significant distance). The climbing goes pretty fast and the descent is a average by alpine standards. Then you would have the walk out. If you leav by 2 or 3 am and hike and climb at a average pace) you could be back to your car between 9pm and midnight.


(This post was edited by cchas on May 6, 2008, 7:26 AM)


zealotnoob


May 6, 2008, 7:24 AM
Post #36 of 57 (2017 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 1, 2006
Posts: 525

Re: [altelis] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I followed your game plan all of last year in preparation for a two month trip to Patagonia this past Jan and Feb Cool

It's going to be quite a while until I have time and resources for another big trip, lending towards my want for short trips.


altelis


May 6, 2008, 7:31 AM
Post #37 of 57 (2011 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 2168

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i hear you. my opinion is that its not worth the money to keep taking small trips with limited possibility of weather cooperating. make the drive to conway and climb up on washington or something.


zealotnoob


May 6, 2008, 8:08 AM
Post #38 of 57 (1996 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 1, 2006
Posts: 525

Re: [cchas] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Clyde Minaret sounds interesting. I'm going to look into that. Thanks!


cchas


May 6, 2008, 8:33 AM
Post #39 of 57 (1983 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 9, 2005
Posts: 344

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Here is a link for some info about it (which is a bit more detailed then here on rc.com.

http://www.summitpost.org/.../southeast-face.html

The alternative start is fun, makes the who route better and here is a picture from when I did it (if its 5.9+ or 5.10a I don't remember since its been maybe 8yrs since I've done it and those synapses get old- but the route is good fun and the area beautiful

Start http://www.summitpost.org/.../original/265497.JPG

and the dihedral up higher

http://www.summitpost.org/.../original/265498.JPG


(This post was edited by cchas on May 6, 2008, 8:34 AM)


ddriver


May 15, 2008, 8:20 AM
Post #40 of 57 (1909 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2003
Posts: 264

Re: [cclarke] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

cclarke wrote:
Re: Hulk

I wouldn't do it that way. It's certainly possible but it wouldn't be a lot of fun. Great route but a little acclimatization will make the approach and the climb way more enjoyable.

Agreed. The approach to the Hulk is a bit of a slog for a D.C. weekender and people get benighted on that thing even from an upper bivy. Regarding Clyde Minaret, "Total mileage from trailhead to Cecil Lake is 7.5 miles." The problem to me with most of the Sierra alpine routes, besides the long flight for him, is the permitting requirements and approaches like that.

I've done the Liberty Bell in a 3-day weekend fly-in trip similar to what you're proposing, but its not a gimme prospect given you're flying so far.

Obviously, the Yosemite and Red Rocks suggestions are much more doable but not exactly alpine. You could go up into Toulomne though as others have suggested and climb Dana, Conness, etc. That's a fairly doable scenario but a long flight. I think 3rd Pillar on Dana is reasonably doable but its not a long climb.

Probably the easiest alpine approaches for you would be the lower routes in Rocky Mountain. Acclimatization to elevations at or below 12,000 is significantly easier than 14,000. Fly into Denver and you have a 2-hour drive to Estes, at most. Do lower day routes like Halletts, Spearhead, Meeker, Mt. Alice, etc. Maybe those aren't long enough for you, though, you didn't really define what "long" means to you, nor how hard you want to climb. I've not done this but I've been told that the routes on Pikes Pk are spectacular and, even though high, you can make the approach into something fairly reasonable. Or rather than trash yourself with this trip, just hike out Lumpy Ridge and do a couple routes on Sundance. Its not exactly alpine but at least you can see it from there.

If you can get a decent flight into Jackson you've knocked out most of the Tetons approach. You could do something like the Buckingham on the Middle or one of the easier routes on the Grand fairly quickly. That could make for a nice long day.

The approach into the Elephant's Perch is fairly casual for what you get out of it, excellent climbing. The trick is getting to the trailhead.

I think you really need a direct flight to make this work. That to me means Denver, Vegas or Salt Lake, maybe Albuquerque. From Salt Lake you can do weekend routes in the Tetons without too much trouble, some Winds routes (Haystack or Warbonnet), or you could climb Notch Pk.


ddriver


May 15, 2008, 8:34 AM
Post #41 of 57 (1906 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2003
Posts: 264

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

It just occurred to me, another good option is to fly into Calgary and do the short drive over to Canmore. There are lots of great limestone routes right next to town, and they're just as long if not longer than many of the granite alpine routes in the US that have been discussed. Look into the routes on Rundle, Chinamen's and Yamnuska. Castle Mountain is a good day. There's all variety of great climbing and the scene is really great. Its again not technically alpine, but you can see it. If you insist on alpine its not far away at all, e.g. Mt. Louis, Mt. Temple, etc. You can get on some really long routes there fairly quickly. All in all, I think this may be about your best option. Canmore is a really nice town and the climbing is right there and really good. Even though its limestone it is still primarily trad on the bigger walls.


cchas


May 15, 2008, 12:47 PM
Post #42 of 57 (1888 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 9, 2005
Posts: 344

Re: [ddriver] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

ddriver wrote:
cclarke wrote:
Re: Hulk

I wouldn't do it that way. It's certainly possible but it wouldn't be a lot of fun. Great route but a little acclimatization will make the approach and the climb way more enjoyable.

Agreed. The approach to the Hulk is a bit of a slog for a D.C. weekender and people get benighted on that thing even from an upper bivy. Regarding Clyde Minaret, "Total mileage from trailhead to Cecil Lake is 7.5 miles." The problem to me with most of the Sierra alpine routes, besides the long flight for him, is the permitting requirements and approaches like that........
.

If you do it as a day trip (ok, think of it as a really long day) permits shouldn't be a problem. The area is a beautiful area and worthwhile spending some time back there but I figure if you are taking climbing gear back there, you might as well do it as a long day

Sure people get benighted on the Hulk but also they get benighted on E Butt of Cathedral (ok, everybody has a different pace that is reasonable for themEven with a moderately late start from the lake I was able to get to camp, break down camp and make it back in time for an awesome dinner in town. Doing it from the car would have made it easier since I wouldn't have had the gear. Only finding the entrance to the canyon is tricky

I figure, explain the logistics accurately, and let the individual decide if its an option for them. For some the long days is a killer, for some its a breeze.


(This post was edited by cchas on May 15, 2008, 12:54 PM)


dudemanbu


May 15, 2008, 5:52 PM
Post #43 of 57 (1874 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 2, 2005
Posts: 941

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Have you done anything at laurel knob?


zealotnoob


May 16, 2008, 4:53 AM
Post #44 of 57 (1855 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 1, 2006
Posts: 525

Re: [dudemanbu] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Nope, but I am curious about it. Have much experience with the place?


wyoclimb


May 21, 2008, 4:37 PM
Post #45 of 57 (1796 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 11, 2007
Posts: 115

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

americas little alps come to mind


zealotnoob


May 22, 2008, 4:58 AM
Post #46 of 57 (1769 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 1, 2006
Posts: 525

Re: [wyoclimb] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Are you talking about the Tetons?


ddriver


May 22, 2008, 7:26 AM
Post #47 of 57 (1755 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2003
Posts: 264

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

znoob, you never defined what "big" meant to you nor what your climbing level or experience is. That makes it tough to offer advice. Looking at your profile, it looks like your first multi-pitch route was late 2006. If that's the case, I don't think you should be seeking the "biggest" alpine routes out there, particularly something on the Diamond.

Q: Have you ever climbed in the Rockies? If so, what have you done?

If not, why don't you set your sights a little lower than the Diamond and do someting like the Petite, Hallets or Notchtop? With jetlag and a flatlanders acclimatization you'll appreciate the shorter approaches. Those are good learners routes and relatively safe, though lightning can be a concern.

Aren't america's little alps the Walowas?Wink


hacksaw


May 22, 2008, 8:58 AM
Post #48 of 57 (1736 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 21, 2004
Posts: 169

Re: [ddriver] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have heard that folks have done the Ham and Eggs Couloir on the Moose's Tooth in Alaska, in a weekend.

Appairently, folks drive up to Talkeetna on Friday afternoon, fly into the Ruth and land below the couloir on the Root Canal Gl., climb the route on Saturday and fly out on Sunday. Obviously, you need prefect conditions and weather......


(This post was edited by hacksaw on May 22, 2008, 9:00 AM)


zealotnoob


May 22, 2008, 11:08 AM
Post #49 of 57 (1714 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 1, 2006
Posts: 525

Re: [ddriver] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

From above:
In reply to:
Well, I'm definately not in the 35 pitch category and my alpine resume is short.

-The Diagonal III 5.8 on Wallface in the Dacks
-The North Ridge III 5.6 on Mt Conness
-The Monzino Route V 5.10 650m on Torre Norte in Paine, Chile
-Taller del Sol V 5.10+ 600m on Torre Norte in Paine, Chile
-Bulgarian Route 6a 450m on Aguja de la S in El Chalten, Argentina

The longer the better, up to 5.10.

My first multi-pitch route was in 2006, two months after I started climbing. I cut my teeth on bigger stuff in Patagonia (http://www.rockclimbing.com/...20patagonia;#1839420) this past Jan-Feb (see above), which left me itching for more.

I agree that the Diamond isn't sounding like a feasible weekend trip. But man, does it look sweet.

Thanks for the help, btw.


wyoclimb


May 22, 2008, 4:16 PM
Post #50 of 57 (1695 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 11, 2007
Posts: 115

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

oh yeay Jump off plane right there in the park hitch to lupine meadows solo up to 13'776 back drinking beer in 24 hrs. maybe


builttospill


May 23, 2008, 12:40 AM
Post #51 of 57 (737 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 7, 2004
Posts: 814

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

While getting a direct flight from DC to Jackson would be sweet, I wouldn't count on it. Last I checked the only flights into and out of Jackson commercially were from Salt LAke and Denver. I'm guessing a flight from DC to JAckson connecting through one of those places might be a bit spendy. May still be cheaper than renting a car in SLC and driving the 4+ hours though.

I'm not familiar with Colorado stuff, but the Tetons definitely fit the bill.

Friday night: Catch late flight to SLC. Arrive by maybe 11 pm if you're lucky or get off work reasonably early and can get a good flight. Pick up climber (I'll go), have them drive to Jackson. Sleep in car. Arrive at 3:30 am.

Either head out then for something pretty big or catch a few z's until 6 pm. Go climb Symmetry Spire or the like. Even if leaving the car at 3 am you could do some of the routes on the Grand if you're quick and in shape and be back to the valley by evening. Then do something smaller on Sunday.

Or you could do the approach on Saturday and climb Sunday. This would leave you rushed to get back to work but is doable. This would be a much more manageable pace in the mountains, considering you're coming from sea level.


zealotnoob


May 23, 2008, 5:42 AM
Post #52 of 57 (726 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 1, 2006
Posts: 525

Re: [builttospill] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Not bad. Do you have general familiarity with the approaches, etc?


cchas


May 23, 2008, 7:39 AM
Post #53 of 57 (719 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 9, 2005
Posts: 344

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

 
With that kind of resume, Red Dihedral on Incredible Hulk is definately feasible and the approach isn't bad, the altitude is pretty mellow and the climbing just fun.


Pitch 2: Red Dihedral


Climbing off the cracked pillar belay

Long time ago I learned its not how long you've been climbing but what your experiences are (after watching a guy go from a noob to leading longer 5.11 routes in Yosemite within 3 mos and within a year leading Seperate Reality. Another guy I know did the American Direct in Chamoniox as his first big route and followed an uncle up the North Face of Eiger his first summer climbing. Everyone is different.


(This post was edited by cchas on May 23, 2008, 7:48 AM)


builttospill


May 23, 2008, 10:45 AM
Post #54 of 57 (706 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 7, 2004
Posts: 814

Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm familiar with some but not all of the approaches. You'll want to pick up Leigh Ortenburger's guide to the Teton Range. If you're climbing anything from Garnet Canyon (the more common routes on the Grand Teton, anything on the Middle Teton, some routes on the South Teton, etc), the approach is almost impossible to get lost on.

Bear in mind that there are not as many technically high-end rock routes as there are in the Sierra. But there is a lot of really good stuff up there, especially in the 5.7-5.8 range. If you're looking for specific suggestions as the time gets closer, I'd be happy to help. I think some others know quite a bit of the stuff up there as well. If you want to get two routes in in a day you could do something like Symmetry Spire on day one and Irenes Arete or something on Day 2. Some of this information is avaialble on summitpost.org as well, or mountainproject.com (in the case or irene's arete). Neither of these get above 12,000 feet, so that's a small advantage.

If you're pretty fit you could approach into Garnet Canyon on Saturday morning, climb a route on the Middle Teton (somethign easier like Chouinard Ridge) and camp up there. Then do something on the Grand on Sunday. You'll be taking the red-eye home for sure and might not have a chance to sleep before work, but it's doable.


builttospill


May 23, 2008, 11:01 AM
Post #55 of 57 (701 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 7, 2004
Posts: 814

Re: [builttospill] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

By the way, if you're looking for bigger objectives, stuff like the N Face of the Grand might be doable in a weekend.

For easier stuff on the south side of the Grand (direct exum, etc, 5.7 ridges), a two day climb (one day to drive and approach and one to climb) is very doable. Some of the Ortenburger guide is also available on google books if you want to check it out there. There are some key pages missing, but it'll give you an idea of what you're looking at.


(This post was edited by builttospill on May 23, 2008, 11:02 AM)


zealotnoob


May 27, 2008, 6:10 AM
Post #56 of 57 (661 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 1, 2006
Posts: 525

Re: [cchas] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

That rock is beautiful!


zealotnoob


May 27, 2008, 6:22 AM
Post #57 of 57 (659 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 1, 2006
Posts: 525

Re: [builttospill] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thanks for the great info. I'm a little familiar with Garnet from attempting to ski the South Teton a couple seasons back. That's such a gorgeous area. I definately need to get back.


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook