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Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend
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builttospill


May 23, 2008, 12:40 AM
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Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
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While getting a direct flight from DC to Jackson would be sweet, I wouldn't count on it. Last I checked the only flights into and out of Jackson commercially were from Salt LAke and Denver. I'm guessing a flight from DC to JAckson connecting through one of those places might be a bit spendy. May still be cheaper than renting a car in SLC and driving the 4+ hours though.

I'm not familiar with Colorado stuff, but the Tetons definitely fit the bill.

Friday night: Catch late flight to SLC. Arrive by maybe 11 pm if you're lucky or get off work reasonably early and can get a good flight. Pick up climber (I'll go), have them drive to Jackson. Sleep in car. Arrive at 3:30 am.

Either head out then for something pretty big or catch a few z's until 6 pm. Go climb Symmetry Spire or the like. Even if leaving the car at 3 am you could do some of the routes on the Grand if you're quick and in shape and be back to the valley by evening. Then do something smaller on Sunday.

Or you could do the approach on Saturday and climb Sunday. This would leave you rushed to get back to work but is doable. This would be a much more manageable pace in the mountains, considering you're coming from sea level.


zealotnoob


May 23, 2008, 5:42 AM
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Re: [builttospill] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
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Not bad. Do you have general familiarity with the approaches, etc?


cchas


May 23, 2008, 7:39 AM
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Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
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With that kind of resume, Red Dihedral on Incredible Hulk is definately feasible and the approach isn't bad, the altitude is pretty mellow and the climbing just fun.


Pitch 2: Red Dihedral


Climbing off the cracked pillar belay

Long time ago I learned its not how long you've been climbing but what your experiences are (after watching a guy go from a noob to leading longer 5.11 routes in Yosemite within 3 mos and within a year leading Seperate Reality. Another guy I know did the American Direct in Chamoniox as his first big route and followed an uncle up the North Face of Eiger his first summer climbing. Everyone is different.


(This post was edited by cchas on May 23, 2008, 7:48 AM)


builttospill


May 23, 2008, 10:45 AM
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Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
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I'm familiar with some but not all of the approaches. You'll want to pick up Leigh Ortenburger's guide to the Teton Range. If you're climbing anything from Garnet Canyon (the more common routes on the Grand Teton, anything on the Middle Teton, some routes on the South Teton, etc), the approach is almost impossible to get lost on.

Bear in mind that there are not as many technically high-end rock routes as there are in the Sierra. But there is a lot of really good stuff up there, especially in the 5.7-5.8 range. If you're looking for specific suggestions as the time gets closer, I'd be happy to help. I think some others know quite a bit of the stuff up there as well. If you want to get two routes in in a day you could do something like Symmetry Spire on day one and Irenes Arete or something on Day 2. Some of this information is avaialble on summitpost.org as well, or mountainproject.com (in the case or irene's arete). Neither of these get above 12,000 feet, so that's a small advantage.

If you're pretty fit you could approach into Garnet Canyon on Saturday morning, climb a route on the Middle Teton (somethign easier like Chouinard Ridge) and camp up there. Then do something on the Grand on Sunday. You'll be taking the red-eye home for sure and might not have a chance to sleep before work, but it's doable.


builttospill


May 23, 2008, 11:01 AM
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Re: [builttospill] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
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By the way, if you're looking for bigger objectives, stuff like the N Face of the Grand might be doable in a weekend.

For easier stuff on the south side of the Grand (direct exum, etc, 5.7 ridges), a two day climb (one day to drive and approach and one to climb) is very doable. Some of the Ortenburger guide is also available on google books if you want to check it out there. There are some key pages missing, but it'll give you an idea of what you're looking at.


(This post was edited by builttospill on May 23, 2008, 11:02 AM)


zealotnoob


May 27, 2008, 6:10 AM
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Re: [cchas] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
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That rock is beautiful!


zealotnoob


May 27, 2008, 6:22 AM
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Re: [builttospill] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
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Thanks for the great info. I'm a little familiar with Garnet from attempting to ski the South Teton a couple seasons back. That's such a gorgeous area. I definately need to get back.

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