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tripperjm
May 20, 2008, 5:28 AM
Post #1976 of 26795
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stymingersfink wrote: tripperjm wrote: artm wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: artm wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: Is anyone good at math? I have a question. Art would probably know this one. What does 12a + 12b + ~20degrees= ? There is kinda a rest at some jugs between the two, but it is kinda steep at that part so most of the weight is still on your arms so its tough to get a great recovery. New Root? I'd say 12b, but I'm probably the least qualified to do so. Are you talking two boulder problems with that rest in between? If it's not much of a rest like you say, maybe .12c. Who am I kidding, I have no friggin clue... Its a link up. The first crux is right off the ground then you go into the crux of the 12b. You get some pretty good jugs between the two but it isn't the best rest and you can never really fully shake the pump. You go into the second crux way more pumped than if you do the normal start. It doesn't really matter to much. Its just another route to add into the rotation. Its just kinda nice to have a gage on my training. I was supposed to go someplace different today and get on some new routes, but it is raining.  I feel like I'm in pretty good shape right now so I was excited to go rip it up. I wouldn't give it a full 12c rating maybe b/c Call it 5.12b+ Confuse the shit out of everyone. The french rating system actually works better for sport climbing grades. humm, u r all rong.... cept the part about french grades more accurately discribing the the difficulty of sport routes. So, if you are a sprayer, you would have to call it 13a. Thats what jt512 would grade it. Cuz thats what he does to all of my routes. By the fact that you are hear talking about grades, leads me to believe.... spray!!!1 Personally, I've got to figure that the 12a and the 12b are both over rated by a grade to a grade and a half. So I would rate the link up 7a+ and let the posers whine. I'd have to send it to be sure, but it is likely a pretty gud guess. Nothing worse than having real guys walk your soft grades and down rating them... simplify things. Call it .11+ 
I was giving chossy the benifit of the doubt that he wasn't a full on poser by calling it 7a+. Personally I like to 'simplify' things... course people say I like to sandbag but they would be rong.
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chossmonkey
May 20, 2008, 10:34 AM
Post #1977 of 26795
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epoch wrote: I did. However, that was just one. I wouldn't even say that I am anywhere near climbing at that grade. Just a convenient happenstance really. The down side is that I don't want to waste my partners' time when they aren't climbing at that level, nor would be able to do anything at that location. So, I will more than likely be soloing there for a bit.
A subman would be eager to go and belay you on your projects there and climb the bottoms of them. And hope to someday be as good as you.
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chossmonkey
May 20, 2008, 10:37 AM
Post #1978 of 26795
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wanderlustmd wrote: epoch wrote: I did. However, that was just one. I wouldn't even say that I am anywhere near climbing at that grade. Just a convenient happenstance really. The down side is that I don't want to waste my partners' time when they aren't climbing at that level, nor would be able to do anything at that location. So, I will more than likely be soloing there for a bit. Well, if you can climb it once, you can climb it again, as they say.
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chossmonkey
May 20, 2008, 10:45 AM
Post #1979 of 26795
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dr_feelgood wrote: Let me know if you find a good deal on some pins.
http://www.mec.ca/...;bmUID=1211280018737
You'd need to add 13% unless you go to Alberta, then it would be 7% I think. Its too bad the US dollar is an economic girlyman. It would be a way better deal. Years ago the US dollar was equal to 1.50 CAN and MEC would ship anything to the US for $12. Being shipped to the States there was no tax/duty as long as you kept the orders under $200 or so. Then the US retailers caught wind and now they won't ship most stuff out of Canada. Its highway robbery in the States.
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chossmonkey
May 20, 2008, 10:47 AM
Post #1980 of 26795
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epoch wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: epoch wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: epoch wrote: chossmonkey wrote: epoch wrote: Scoped out another area 10 minutes down the road. The land owner is a bit sketched about climbers on his 68' wall. I don't think it would be a training ground for me quite yet. I know I can't pull hard .12 or .13 or .14, so for now I'll just scope out the twin aid lines. You live 10min from Rumney? Ahem <<<----- Maine Our local .13/.14 climber put a few lines up on it. They're hard. A bold climber might try to free the aid lines. Though I don't know if anyone has even led them. They're super thin. I'm going to try and lead it clean, probably next weekend. Clean as in free or clean as in hammerless? As in hammerless. Though I probably need to get me at least 3 more micro-nuts to do it safely. There may be one hook move. Hmmmm IME's consignment counter usually has some Zeros. People, Epoch is going to reacquire an aid rack. It is time... Poor guy. Never saw it coming. Let me know if you find a good deal on some pins. Just because I'm getting some pins, hooks, and stuff doesn't mean that I'm going to get fat.
Easy aid however is.
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chossmonkey
May 20, 2008, 10:48 AM
Post #1981 of 26795
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dr_feelgood wrote: In other news I have some really smell and perfectly silent farts today. Elevator riders beware!
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chossmonkey
May 20, 2008, 10:49 AM
Post #1982 of 26795
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Fuck you guys were busy yesterday.
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chossmonkey
May 20, 2008, 10:55 AM
Post #1983 of 26795
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artm wrote: chossmonkey wrote: Is anyone good at math? I have a question. Art would probably know this one. What does 12a + 12b + ~20degrees= ? There is kinda a rest at some jugs between the two, but it is kinda steep at that part so most of the weight is still on your arms so its tough to get a great recovery. 7B
I would have thought 7b+
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chossmonkey
May 20, 2008, 10:56 AM
Post #1984 of 26795
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dr_feelgood wrote: And depending on how many I get, I may become the class leader in successful tube placement.
Yeah but you cheated and went to the wrong hospital.
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chossmonkey
May 20, 2008, 10:56 AM
Post #1985 of 26795
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dr_feelgood wrote: artm wrote: chossmonkey wrote: Is anyone good at math? I have a question. Art would probably know this one. What does 12a + 12b + ~20degrees= ? There is kinda a rest at some jugs between the two, but it is kinda steep at that part so most of the weight is still on your arms so its tough to get a great recovery. 7B I was sniped.
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chossmonkey
May 20, 2008, 10:56 AM
Post #1986 of 26795
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dr_feelgood wrote: by art nonetheless.
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chossmonkey
May 20, 2008, 10:58 AM
Post #1987 of 26795
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dr_feelgood wrote: I'm going to reach 12k today.
At least in that instance.
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chossmonkey
May 20, 2008, 11:03 AM
Post #1988 of 26795
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: The crappy thing about actually logging on is that I have to see everybody's ghey avatards and wannabe clever sigs. Having to look at WMD is particularly disturbing.
You can turn all that crap off.
I had to turn off the avitards back when Biner had that one of her brother.
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chossmonkey
May 20, 2008, 11:05 AM
Post #1989 of 26795
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dr_feelgood wrote: A priest filed a restraining order on an 11 year old autistic boy, banning him and his mother from sunday services. I'm surprised this is not all over the soapbox by now.
The kid is a disruption.
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chossmonkey
May 20, 2008, 11:28 AM
Post #1991 of 26795
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dr_feelgood wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: The crappy thing about actually logging on is that I have to see everybody's ghey avatards and wannabe clever sigs. Having to look at WMD is particularly disturbing. Yeah I need a new sig.
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epoch
Moderator
May 20, 2008, 11:28 AM
Post #1992 of 26795
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Registered: Apr 28, 2005
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chossmonkey wrote: epoch wrote: I did. However, that was just one. I wouldn't even say that I am anywhere near climbing at that grade. Just a convenient happenstance really. The down side is that I don't want to waste my partners' time when they aren't climbing at that level, nor would be able to do anything at that location. So, I will more than likely be soloing there for a bit. You need to cultivate a subman. A subman would be eager to go and belay you on your projects there and climb the bottoms of them. And hope to someday be as good as you.
I'm the ropegun of the local group.
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epoch
Moderator
May 20, 2008, 11:28 AM
Post #1993 of 26795
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chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: epoch wrote: I did. However, that was just one. I wouldn't even say that I am anywhere near climbing at that grade. Just a convenient happenstance really. The down side is that I don't want to waste my partners' time when they aren't climbing at that level, nor would be able to do anything at that location. So, I will more than likely be soloing there for a bit. Well, if you can climb it once, you can climb it again, as they say. Add it into the rotation. Unless it was really specialized you can use it to build off of.
I knowz this already. Tell me something knew.
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chossmonkey
May 20, 2008, 11:28 AM
Post #1994 of 26795
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dr_feelgood wrote: artm wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: Is anyone good at math? I have a question. Art would probably know this one. What does 12a + 12b + ~20degrees= ? There is kinda a rest at some jugs between the two, but it is kinda steep at that part so most of the weight is still on your arms so its tough to get a great recovery. New Root? I'd say 12b, but I'm probably the least qualified to do so. Are you talking two boulder problems with that rest in between? If it's not much of a rest like you say, maybe .12c. Who am I kidding, I have no friggin clue... Its a link up. The first crux is right off the ground then you go into the crux of the 12b. You get some pretty good jugs between the two but it isn't the best rest and you can never really fully shake the pump. You go into the second crux way more pumped than if you do the normal start. It doesn't really matter to much. Its just another route to add into the rotation. Its just kinda nice to have a gage on my training. I was supposed to go someplace different today and get on some new routes, but it is raining. I feel like I'm in pretty good shape right now so I was excited to go rip it up. I wouldn't give it a full 12c rating maybe b/c Call it 5.12b+ Confuse the shit out of everyone.
That is what I suggested to begin with.
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chossmonkey
May 20, 2008, 11:30 AM
Post #1996 of 26795
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artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: Is anyone good at math? I have a question. Art would probably know this one. What does 12a + 12b + ~20degrees= ? There is kinda a rest at some jugs between the two, but it is kinda steep at that part so most of the weight is still on your arms so its tough to get a great recovery. New Root? I'd say 12b, but I'm probably the least qualified to do so. Are you talking two boulder problems with that rest in between? If it's not much of a rest like you say, maybe .12c. Who am I kidding, I have no friggin clue... Its a link up. The first crux is right off the ground then you go into the crux of the 12b. You get some pretty good jugs between the two but it isn't the best rest and you can never really fully shake the pump. You go into the second crux way more pumped than if you do the normal start. It doesn't really matter to much. Its just another route to add into the rotation. Its just kinda nice to have a gage on my training. I was supposed to go someplace different today and get on some new routes, but it is raining. I feel like I'm in pretty good shape right now so I was excited to go rip it up. You could probably get away with .12c, I'm guessing. That's good that you are in good shape right now, it's still so early. I haven't climbed much at all the last 2 weeks, hopefully I won't have lost too much. Looking forward to next weekend at Seneca to finish up my ticklist (hopefully). I really, really hope the weather is nice, it will be the last time I climb there for who knows how long. yore rong!
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epoch
Moderator
May 20, 2008, 11:31 AM
Post #1997 of 26795
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Your sure taking for-fucking ever to GU...
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chossmonkey
May 20, 2008, 11:37 AM
Post #1998 of 26795
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artm wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: artm wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: Is anyone good at math? I have a question. Art would probably know this one. What does 12a + 12b + ~20degrees= ? There is kinda a rest at some jugs between the two, but it is kinda steep at that part so most of the weight is still on your arms so its tough to get a great recovery. New Root? I'd say 12b, but I'm probably the least qualified to do so. Are you talking two boulder problems with that rest in between? If it's not much of a rest like you say, maybe .12c. Who am I kidding, I have no friggin clue... Its a link up. The first crux is right off the ground then you go into the crux of the 12b. You get some pretty good jugs between the two but it isn't the best rest and you can never really fully shake the pump. You go into the second crux way more pumped than if you do the normal start. It doesn't really matter to much. Its just another route to add into the rotation. Its just kinda nice to have a gage on my training. I was supposed to go someplace different today and get on some new routes, but it is raining. I feel like I'm in pretty good shape right now so I was excited to go rip it up. I wouldn't give it a full 12c rating maybe b/c Call it 5.12b+ Confuse the shit out of everyone. The french rating system actually works better for sport climbing grades.
I have heard that before, but I think the argument goes back to before the "+" grades. As it is now they break down to roughly reflect the YDS.
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chossmonkey
May 20, 2008, 11:39 AM
Post #1999 of 26795
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obsessed wrote: chossmonkey wrote: Man, people are going ape shit with the fireworks tonight. Canadians love the fireworks. I think there are three holidays in the sumer people buy them for. Why they celebrate Queen Victory is beyond me.  Brent spent $30 on them. And we love them because we are not legally allowed to use them or buy them other than May2-4 and July 1st.
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chossmonkey
May 20, 2008, 11:40 AM
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obsessed wrote: obsessed wrote: all this talk is messing with my comfortably numb mind space. Hey doc you ever drink so much thay yer fa lce goes numb?? oh crap.
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Re: [stymingersfink] The Lounge™
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