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curt
May 26, 2008, 4:24 AM
Post #51 of 59
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reno wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: reno wrote: Edited to add: I still don't get why people don't use the climbing rope to anchor in? It's simple, doesn't require extra gear, and vastly more safe than any cord tie-off set up. Agreed. So much easier and quicker. Safer, too.
Well, we all seem to agree on that (except perhaps majid) and the ONLY possible reason I can think of not to do so would be when climbing a 60 meter pitch with a single 60 meter rope.
Curt
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reno
May 26, 2008, 5:07 AM
Post #52 of 59
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majid_sabet wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: reno wrote: Edited to add: I still don't get why people don't use the climbing rope to anchor in? It's simple, doesn't require extra gear, and vastly more safe than any cord tie-off set up. Agreed. So much easier and quicker.good idea except if Sh*t hits the fan and you must escape belay, you "the belayer" and he/she "the leader/follower" are married to the anchor .
I've never had a problem escaping the belay when anchored using the climbing rope.
It simply takes a measure of knowledge and skill. If you don't have those, well......
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reno
May 26, 2008, 5:10 AM
Post #53 of 59
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curt wrote: Well, we all seem to agree on that (except perhaps majid) and the ONLY possible reason I can think of not to do so would be when climbing a 60 meter pitch with a single 60 meter rope.
Agreed in principle, though one could argue semantics: It takes about a meter of rope per person to tie in. Thus, one could only climb 58 meters on a 60 meter rope.
But yeah, you have a point. Then, too, seldom is the harm in 2 meters of simul-climbing. Did that more than once in the Cirque of the Towers, and it worked out well enough.
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patto
May 26, 2008, 10:21 AM
Post #54 of 59
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curt wrote: Well, we all seem to agree on that (except perhaps majid) and the ONLY possible reason I can think of not to do so would be when climbing a 60 meter pitch with a single 60 meter rope. Curt
I certainly don't agree. If you are multi pitching, particularly with multiple people then a separate cord for your anchor can often be better. If you are leading every pitch on a multipitch then you normally DON'T want to be building your anchor out of climbing rope. Of course if you do then you can always swap ends.
That said I am a strong advocate of using the climbing rope for the anchor. I carry a cordalette but I make my anchor with climbing rope probably 80% of the time.
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gunkiemike
Jun 6, 2008, 9:54 PM
Post #55 of 59
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I'm curious how many people a) shun the cordelette because it equalizes poorly, doesn't adjust to changing direction, and/or can lead to cascade failure
but
b) use a rope-based anchor that doesn't overcome these deficiencies.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jun 6, 2008, 10:05 PM
Post #56 of 59
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patto wrote: I carry a cordalette but I make my anchor with climbing rope probably 80% of the time.
Brilliant!
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jun 6, 2008, 10:08 PM
Post #57 of 59
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gunkiemike wrote: I'm curious how many people a) shun the cordelette because it equalizes poorly, doesn't adjust to changing direction, and/or can lead to cascade failure but b) use a rope-based anchor that doesn't overcome these deficiencies.
I doubt most of these people (if any of them) shun the cordelette for that reason. More likely is that they don't feel like dragging up an extra piece of bulky gear that they feel can be replaced by more multifunctional equipment, such as the rope and slings.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jun 6, 2008, 10:09 PM
Post #58 of 59
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: gunkiemike wrote: I'm curious how many people a) shun the cordelette because it equalizes poorly, doesn't adjust to changing direction, and/or can lead to cascade failure but b) use a rope-based anchor that doesn't overcome these deficiencies. I doubt most of these people (if any of them) shun the cordelette for that reason. More likely is that they don't feel like dragging up an extra piece of bulky gear that they feel can be replaced by more multifunctional equipment, such as the rope and slings.
Although I would be interested to see how many of these people carry a GriGri.
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stymingersfink
Jun 7, 2008, 12:29 AM
Post #59 of 59
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: gunkiemike wrote: I'm curious how many people a) shun the cordelette because it equalizes poorly, doesn't adjust to changing direction, and/or can lead to cascade failure but b) use a rope-based anchor that doesn't overcome these deficiencies. I doubt most of these people (if any of them) shun the cordelette for that reason. More likely is that they don't feel like dragging up an extra piece of bulky gear that they feel can be replaced by more multifunctional equipment, such as the rope and slings. Although I would be interested to see how many of these people carry a GriGri.
multi-functional as all hell.
but i have the skillz to back up that assertion.
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