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healyje
Jun 13, 2008, 3:41 PM
Post #26 of 39
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gothcopter wrote: ) Downclimbing is a valuable skill.
This is a very under emphasized skill in trad climbing and something you can definitely practice in a gym. I'd highly recommend doing so.
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donald949
Jun 13, 2008, 4:56 PM
Post #27 of 39
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Zan you're getting some good advise here.
Troutboy has offered to go with you to the Gunks. If you can't meet him, post up in the Partners forum for the weekends you are going for an experienced leader. You should be able to find someone who wants to climb and needs a second.
A previous poster also mentioned about long draws/runners verses sport draws. Sport draws are not the best for trad gear. They are generally too stiff and short, and can pull your gear out sideways as you climb up. Longer softer runners won't tug on the gear as much. If you have sport draws, just pull the binners off them and put them on longer runners.
Finnally, get a Dry rope. The Dry treatment will make the rope last longer.
Again, lots of good advise here so far.
Don
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keithspernak
Jun 13, 2008, 5:26 PM
Post #28 of 39
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When in doubt, DON'T run it our. Tuolumne is notorious for runout climbs, but not all of em' are runout. Most of the popular moderates are popular for a reason. Have a good time, you'll love it there.
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clee03m
Jun 15, 2008, 8:09 AM
Post #29 of 39
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Hey, I feel your pain. It took me a long time to start leading trad because I was so freaked out by the idea. But as a fellow beginner trad leader, I am telling you, once you start, it ain't that bad. I remember one of my partners telling me a few years back that trad leading wasn't rocket science, and that I should really relax, and he was reight. Really isn't rocket science. You sound sensible. I am sure you are going to be fine.
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dropkicked
Jun 15, 2008, 3:03 PM
Post #30 of 39
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Another thing you could do after doing a few very very easy leads, is get on mock lead on something that is not extremely easy for you. This will allow you to practice placing gear at your limit while being tightly secured to a toprope. Then have your partner check all of your placements, this may not be a great way to gain your lead head but your eye for placing protection will be better. Especially if you are actually still going to lead much easier stuff since you will be accustomed to doing it from hard moves.
Also don't simply place gear like bolts, ie. 1 per given distance. If a piece looks weak, place another. Don't climb past a potential placement, unless you desperately need the gear on your harness to create an anchor. Also as someone earlier said place a multi-directional off the ground or anchor. There is nothing worse than being 35 meters up a pitch and having a wrong tug in the rope pull 6 nuts out below you. Well aside from falling after the zipper occurs. Again as stated before, runners also help to prevent this.
One more thing, if you are on a gear anchor and are taking the sharp end of the rope, always, always be sure to clip the rope into one of the pieces on the anchor. This - in the case of a fall before you can secure your next piece - will reduce the chance of a factor two fall onto your anchor. Which is definitely undesirable. Your belayer can remove the piece once you have placed another in order to eliminate rope drag.
Anyways hope your trip/training is awesome.
cheers
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petsfed
Jun 15, 2008, 3:28 PM
Post #31 of 39
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zan wrote: I don't know how widely used it is, all I know is I was at the gym, hanging out, top-roping and talking to some friends about the upcoming trip (they all think I'm nuts) when one looked over at me and said, "You know what they say, 'Trad is serious. You can die.'" Maybe he was making fun of me? Entirely possible.
If they think you're nuts, they clearly haven't done much trad. Unless you're in an offwidth or chimney, you place nuts, but you aren't yourself one.
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petsfed
Jun 15, 2008, 3:33 PM
Post #32 of 39
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dropkicked wrote: One more thing, if you are on a gear anchor and are taking the sharp end of the rope, always, always be sure to clip the rope into one of the pieces on the anchor. This - in the case of a fall before you can secure your next piece - will reduce the chance of a factor two fall onto your anchor. Which is definitely undesirable. Your belayer can remove the piece once you have placed another in order to eliminate rope drag.
No. No no no. NO.
If you're gonna clip the anchor as a piece, clip it in such a way that you get the benefit of the equalization. In other words, clip the power point. Otherwise you might just compromise your anchor too.
Still, in such a situation, you always protect the belay. You get a solid piece in as soon as possible after leaving, even if that means placing a piece 6 inches off the belay. Factor 2s aren't fun.
(This post was edited by petsfed on Jun 15, 2008, 3:34 PM)
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mamajama
Jun 16, 2008, 2:18 AM
Post #33 of 39
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Hey newb,
most of the warm ups are in the 5.10 range and most of the pitches are at least 100 ft. The gear is bomber and the valley eats up stoppers so take a nut tool. To be a good second; move fast and stay psyched! You should definately get a bi-patterned rope that's 70m, probably a 10.2 diameter. Take lots of shoulder length slings and lockers. For training do mainly endurance. Oh yeah, strong legs are key for any valley trip. Oh yeah again, take every cam you can get your hands on. Good luck.
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cchas
Jun 16, 2008, 3:55 AM
Post #34 of 39
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Registered: Jun 9, 2005
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If you are serious about Yosemite, instead of the gunks (which style of climbing will do squat to prepare you for Yosemite) and head upto the Daks. There are several walls that have vertical cracks which will prepare you (technique-wise) for Yosemite.
Now chill out. Yes, trad climbingf can get you killed but being soooo tense will probably also. Develop an a good attitude that will keep you alive. I've seen "good" trad climbers who will place crap gear and be fairly flippant about it. I watched one deck this year since they fell on a cam that was undercammed and it ripped.
When you place gear, REALLY evaluate if its good or not. There is no reason to place crap gear.
Get good with nuts, in Yosemite there are a lot of routes where being good with small nuts (on the rack and not your own) are indispensiable.
Set your sights low. I used to watch people not used to long routes, epic time and time again. Get used to stacking lots of pitches in a single day. - also remember in Tuolumne, lightning storms can come in in the afternoon. The faster you can get up and down a route, the better.
(This post was edited by cchas on Jun 16, 2008, 5:30 PM)
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zan
Jun 18, 2008, 5:29 PM
Post #35 of 39
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Registered: Jun 12, 2008
Posts: 29
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Thanks to everyone for the great advice. :)
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dr_feelgood
Jun 18, 2008, 8:43 PM
Post #36 of 39
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Has anyone told you to bring beer yet?
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zan
Jun 18, 2008, 9:29 PM
Post #37 of 39
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Registered: Jun 12, 2008
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Actually we're both the Knob Creek kind of climbers.
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irregularpanda
Jun 18, 2008, 10:25 PM
Post #38 of 39
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zan wrote: Actually we're both the Knob Creek kind of climbers.
Strong work. Oh I wish I weren't broke right now!
My advice is just to echo whoever told you to chill out. A clear head and rational routefinding can make a big difference in the world of multi pitch. The moron at the gym who said "trad is serious, you can die" was just sandbagging you. See how it worked? Chill out, and plan your movements, placements, and rope management. Remember to breathe, and try to share the knob creek if another party on the rock is really conscientious or polite to you. California climbers tend to get territorial, which is stupid.
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brownie710
Jun 19, 2008, 2:24 PM
Post #39 of 39
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Registered: Aug 25, 2007
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zan wrote: a) live, b) avoid stupid newbie mistakes c) train for the trip in terms of skill/technique/strength etc and d) be an awesome second Oh, and, my folks offered to buy me a new rope for my birthday ... any particular kind I should get for trad?
A) when at belays always back up the clove with a shoulder length, always use commands even if your partner doesn't, listen to your gut instinct
B) Close your chalkbag at the top of routes to avoid the embarrassing "gumby powder mark" ,
C) climb as much as possible, even if it's indoors or bouldering
D)when seconding unplug the piece, clip to your harness and then unclip from the rope (dropping gear is always frowned upon)
As far as the rope goes get something expensive, your not paying for it
have a blast
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