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Arrogant_Bastard
Jun 25, 2008, 7:35 PM
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PTFTW has to be my favorite Tard Movie, hands down.
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sungam
Jun 25, 2008, 9:51 PM
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: sungam wrote: American trad movies just don't mesure up to british death routes. Commited, Hard Grit, Stone Monkey top the list. Wrong. First Ascent was a far better movie than any of those. I didn't think Commited was very well done at all. Hard Grit was quite good, but no FA. Though I have a bit of a problem with the fact that many of those "British Death Routes" would be known as boulder problems if they were anywhere else.
Also, plenty of onsighters in the UK! The only routes that get headpointed only are like 5.14 top end. How can you expect all the E10s to be flashed in the movie when no one has ever flashed E8???
Also, try calling a 45 metre arete a boulder problem. roff-alls.
-MagnuS
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sungam
Jun 25, 2008, 9:56 PM
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No, you right. Just thought about it, commited wasn't that good. I did enjoy the lord of the flys bit, and also Dave doing blind vision in the dark. And the moves on James Pearson's Gratcliffe groove were ridiculous.
-MagnuS
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jun 25, 2008, 10:01 PM
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sungam wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: sungam wrote: American trad movies just don't mesure up to british death routes. Commited, Hard Grit, Stone Monkey top the list. Wrong. First Ascent was a far better movie than any of those. I didn't think Commited was very well done at all. Hard Grit was quite good, but no FA. Though I have a bit of a problem with the fact that many of those "British Death Routes" would be known as boulder problems if they were anywhere else. dude, best clip in the movie is the FA of Meshuga at the end!!! Also, plenty of onsighters in the UK! The only routes that get headpointed only are like 5.14 top end. How can you expect all the E10s to be flashed in the movie when no one has ever flashed E8??? Also, try calling a 45 metre arete a boulder problem. roff-alls. -MagnuS
I thought FA had a great mix of good climbing, interesting and varied areas/rock, funny moments, a great storyline with the cobra crack, good music, and some good commentary. Yes, he can get a bit annoying. The makings of a great movie. I've also been able to watch it many times more than any other climbing vid before boredom sets in.
Actually I thought the headpointing philosophy was interesting. You just brought it to a regional debate and I'm calling BS on that. There's people from all over this globe doing some impressive fucking shit.
I didn't say all routes, but some of them were short.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jun 25, 2008, 10:02 PM
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sungam wrote: No, you right. Just thought about it, commited wasn't that good. I did enjoy the lord of the flys bit, and also Dave doing blind vision in the dark. And the moves on James Pearson's Gratcliffe groove were ridiculous.
It had some moments for sure, I just didn't think it lived up to my expectations after Hard Grit. Some cheese factor too. I really don't give a damn about the kid living with his parents, their lifestyle, or his girlfriend watching him climb and how much she means to him.
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sungam
Jun 25, 2008, 10:10 PM
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I really don't give a damn about the kid living with his parents, their lifestyle, or his girlfriend watching him climb and how much she means to him.ditto that.
I just thought that First ascent was a bit, I dunno, like...
Like in the movies I listed, it's like right there and not really planned just a phone call an 6 am saying "gunna gie it a whack" but then commited kinda lost that a bit I guess, though some parts of the other movies were put on, too.
Pehaps the fact that First ascent put all the good bits on line first ruined it, I saw the better half of that movie on posing productions before it came out.
Also did not explain what about some of the routes enough.
Thinking about it, I did watch it in the suirana refugio campsite bistro so maybe I was preoccupied by the jazzin' atmosphere.
-MagnuS
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c4c
Jun 25, 2008, 10:47 PM
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uncommon ground
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getout87
Jun 26, 2008, 11:43 AM
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: sungam wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: sungam wrote: American trad movies just don't mesure up to british death routes. Commited, Hard Grit, Stone Monkey top the list. Wrong. First Ascent was a far better movie than any of those. I didn't think Commited was very well done at all. Hard Grit was quite good, but no FA. Though I have a bit of a problem with the fact that many of those "British Death Routes" would be known as boulder problems if they were anywhere else. dude, best clip in the movie is the FA of Meshuga at the end!!! Also, plenty of onsighters in the UK! The only routes that get headpointed only are like 5.14 top end. How can you expect all the E10s to be flashed in the movie when no one has ever flashed E8??? Also, try calling a 45 metre arete a boulder problem. roff-alls. -MagnuS I thought FA had a great mix of good climbing, interesting and varied areas/rock, funny moments, a great storyline with the cobra crack, good music, and some good commentary. Yes, he can get a bit annoying. The makings of a great movie. I've also been able to watch it many times more than any other climbing vid before boredom sets in. Actually I thought the headpointing philosophy was interesting. You just brought it to a regional debate and I'm calling BS on that. There's people from all over this globe doing some impressive fucking shit. I didn't say all routes, but some of them were short.
Yeah, FA is the movie that I can watch over and over again and not really ever get bored with it. Come to think of it, I can do that with Dosage IV too. They both get me equally psyched.
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sungam
Jun 26, 2008, 12:29 PM
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[quote "getout87
Yeah, FA is the movie that I can watch over and over again and not really ever get bored with it. Come to think of it, I can do that with Dosage IV too. They both get me equally psyched.I find the dosage films get very boring very quickly. Too much bouldering. A little bouldering is cool, like a few clips of a proper desperate, but too much just lacks flair.
If I remember correctly, FA had a bit of alpine stuff in it? that was cool.
-MAgnuS
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sungam
Jun 26, 2008, 12:31 PM
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I'll also throw E11 out there, it was cool to see that top end climbers can get frustrated ("What the fuck do I have to do???") and have to work a route to high hell just to climb it, and still fail.
Do you get what I mean?
-MagnuS
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getout87
Jun 26, 2008, 12:36 PM
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sungam wrote: [quote "getout87 Yeah, FA is the movie that I can watch over and over again and not really ever get bored with it. Come to think of it, I can do that with Dosage IV too. They both get me equally psyched.
If I remember correctly, FA had a bit of alpine stuff in it? that was cool.
-MAgnuS
Well I like watching some bouldering with almost unbelievable burlyness in movies, it gets me motivated, and that's why I love them so much for the most part.
I have yet to see any of the UK grit movies, but I really want to. What is the best one?
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camhead
Jun 26, 2008, 1:03 PM
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getout87 wrote: camhead wrote: getout87 wrote: billcoe_ wrote: I saw one where Dean Potter was soloing the nose, just running up it, which kicked ass. Forgot the name of it though. It's either between dosage IV or first ascent. wrong. The correct answer is Masters of Stone V. Thank you for playing. wrong those were my favorites, not a guess at what movie he was talking about. thanks for playing.
then why on earth did you quote and reply as if you were responding to his question?
oh, and I enjoyed Mortimer's films (return to sender, front range freaks, first ascent), but they just seem too much like an insular boulderado circle jerk after watching them too much.
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getout87
Jun 26, 2008, 1:07 PM
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camhead wrote: getout87 wrote: camhead wrote: getout87 wrote: billcoe_ wrote: I saw one where Dean Potter was soloing the nose, just running up it, which kicked ass. Forgot the name of it though. It's either between dosage IV or first ascent. wrong. The correct answer is Masters of Stone V. Thank you for playing. wrong those were my favorites, not a guess at what movie he was talking about. thanks for playing. then why on earth did you quote and reply as if you were responding to his question? oh, and I enjoyed Mortimer's films (return to sender, front range freaks, first ascent), but they just seem too much like an insular boulderado circle jerk after watching them too much.
I was saying, for me, my favorite is either between Dosage IV or FA, not that the segment of Dean Potter was in them. Maybe that was a little vague, so I apologize. Besides the point, I defintely know that I haven't seen that clip of Potter, but the big time whippers he takes on the Tombstone in FA are pretty impressive, and the same noise he makes everytime he falls cracks me up.
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sungam
Jun 26, 2008, 1:43 PM
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getout87 wrote: Well I like watching some bouldering with almost unbelievable burlyness in movies, it gets me motivated, and that's why I love them so much for the most part. I have yet to see any of the UK grit movies, but I really want to. What is the best one?
Anywhoozlebees, check out hard grit, stone monkey and perhaps commited. Also check out On Sight when it comes out, seems to be a goodun.
Also set in stone is ment to be good.
-MagnuS
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getout87
Jun 26, 2008, 1:52 PM
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sungam wrote: getout87 wrote: Well I like watching some bouldering with almost unbelievable burlyness in movies, it gets me motivated, and that's why I love them so much for the most part. I have yet to see any of the UK grit movies, but I really want to. What is the best one? I see what you say about the bouldering, but too much just gets boring. Anywhoozlebees, check out hard grit, stone monkey and perhaps commited. Also check out On Sight when it comes out, seems to be a goodun. Also set in stone is ment to be good. -MagnuS
I never really get bored with it, but to each his own I guess. Where I really get bored is when they just have interview after interview with incessant rambling.
I'm definitely going to be checking out hard grit, hopefully soon. When you say on sight, do you mean the sharp end, or am I confusing something?
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jrathfon
Jun 26, 2008, 2:01 PM
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If you guys don't like bouldering, insular colorado circle jerks, way too many digital effects, and bad hip-hop, then you definitely should not watch "Colorado Dreams" or "Colorado Daydreams". My roommate had it, whatever the actual title, you couldn't pay me to sit down and watch the entire thing through. ugh.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jun 26, 2008, 4:01 PM
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sungam wrote: Too much bouldering. A little bouldering is cool, like a few clips of a proper desperate, but too much just lacks flair.
This is correct.
I need to stop agreeing with you. Go back to saying things for me to make fun of.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jun 26, 2008, 4:03 PM
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sungam wrote: I'll also throw E11 out there, it was cool to see that top end climbers can get frustrated ("What the fuck do I have to do???") and have to work a route to high hell just to climb it, and still fail. Do you get what I mean? -MagnuS
Agreed, and I enjoyed it a lot, but it's not something I can watch a lot of. They should have put more extras in there with other climbers.
Kinda takes a bit away from it watching all the repeat ascents as of late.
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kappydane
Jun 26, 2008, 4:14 PM
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Henry Barber onsight soloing Strand and climbing with Pete Livsey in England. Sums up what climbing is about. Good luck finding it :) (thedogfather)
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boo
Jun 26, 2008, 4:19 PM
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I've enjoyed the Squamish flick: In the Shadow of the Chief, the Baldwin and Cooper Story. Tells the story of how two local boys got their bahookies up the Chief. Juxtaposed are contemporary climbers doing the route free. Shows how the local community rallied behind the feat, despite all odds.
Also, although not specifically climbing, but a slew of old climbers were in it is "Fire on the Mountain." Documents the development and almost dismantling of the 10th Mountain Brigade during WWII. The movie shows a lot of amazing men who have left lasting impact in the outdoor world. It made an awesome Father's Day gift, too.
(This post was edited by boo on Jun 26, 2008, 4:21 PM)
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Carolyn11
Jun 26, 2008, 4:34 PM
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the Petzl Festiglace video is my current favorite. I tend to enjoy anything that Andy Kirkpatrick and Ian Parnell are in as they have laugh at themselves and seem to be having the most fun. Ck out Psyche and Hard XS.
King lines is visually stunning but the narrative, storyline, whatever you want to call it just ain't compelling. Higher Ground is good too. Although I wish there was more depth to the interviews.
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k.l.k
Jun 26, 2008, 4:57 PM
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Yeah, I found King Lines overly long and watchable only for the climbing porn.
I don't buy many climbing dvds, but I'll buy Stone Monkey. It was remarkably well done. I didn't find Committed nearly as engaging, although it was better made than most US climbing porn.
Touching the Void was much better than I had expected, a good deal better than the recent Everest flick.
And anyone who hasn't seen the classic Bergfilm of the 1920s and '30s should watch Arnold Fanck's Heilige Berg.
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dreadlock
Jun 26, 2008, 5:53 PM
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"The Mountain" with Spencer Tracy and Robert Wagner
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Carolyn11
Jun 26, 2008, 6:02 PM
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anyone see coldhaul? I've heard its very good but its only an import.
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