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sungam
Jul 8, 2008, 11:18 AM
Post #26 of 33
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: sungam wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: devkrev wrote: I think the thing with Akira is that its more of a boulder problem then a route. He has a interesting little segment on the extras of the movie First Ascent, they probably cut it from the regular section because it had a different "feel" to it then the rest of the movie. But he is really strong. edit: Freddy on Akira dev Cool vid and all, but how is that not a bouldering problem. And I thought his stuff in FA was cool, but it did belong in the extras section. It's not a boulder problem just the same as any route with a "bouldery start" with a jug hual after. Like this E2 by my old house, easy after the crux, but to get to the easy bit you had to climb a V5, simple as that. I dunno, if the climbing is far easier than the real meat of the climb... Kind of like how a 5.11 climb won't get an R rating if there is a 5.8R section on there. Anybody at that level should be able to cruise 5.8 with a bit of runout.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jul 8, 2008, 3:23 PM
Post #27 of 33
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sungam wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: sungam wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: devkrev wrote: I think the thing with Akira is that its more of a boulder problem then a route. He has a interesting little segment on the extras of the movie First Ascent, they probably cut it from the regular section because it had a different "feel" to it then the rest of the movie. But he is really strong. edit: Freddy on Akira dev Cool vid and all, but how is that not a bouldering problem. And I thought his stuff in FA was cool, but it did belong in the extras section. It's not a boulder problem just the same as any route with a "bouldery start" with a jug hual after. Like this E2 by my old house, easy after the crux, but to get to the easy bit you had to climb a V5, simple as that. I dunno, if the climbing is far easier than the real meat of the climb... Kind of like how a 5.11 climb won't get an R rating if there is a 5.8R section on there. Anybody at that level should be able to cruise 5.8 with a bit of runout. let's just leave it at the fact that it is desperate.
It's a mute point, I can't get to the "easy" section anyway.
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getout87
Jul 8, 2008, 6:24 PM
Post #28 of 33
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Registered: Dec 30, 2007
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: sungam wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: sungam wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: devkrev wrote: I think the thing with Akira is that its more of a boulder problem then a route. He has a interesting little segment on the extras of the movie First Ascent, they probably cut it from the regular section because it had a different "feel" to it then the rest of the movie. But he is really strong. edit: Freddy on Akira dev Cool vid and all, but how is that not a bouldering problem. And I thought his stuff in FA was cool, but it did belong in the extras section. It's not a boulder problem just the same as any route with a "bouldery start" with a jug hual after. Like this E2 by my old house, easy after the crux, but to get to the easy bit you had to climb a V5, simple as that. I dunno, if the climbing is far easier than the real meat of the climb... Kind of like how a 5.11 climb won't get an R rating if there is a 5.8R section on there. Anybody at that level should be able to cruise 5.8 with a bit of runout. let's just leave it at the fact that it is desperate. It's a mute point, I can't get to the "easy" section anyway.
Do you mean moot?
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jul 8, 2008, 7:47 PM
Post #29 of 33
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getout87 wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: sungam wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: sungam wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: devkrev wrote: I think the thing with Akira is that its more of a boulder problem then a route. He has a interesting little segment on the extras of the movie First Ascent, they probably cut it from the regular section because it had a different "feel" to it then the rest of the movie. But he is really strong. edit: Freddy on Akira dev Cool vid and all, but how is that not a bouldering problem. And I thought his stuff in FA was cool, but it did belong in the extras section. It's not a boulder problem just the same as any route with a "bouldery start" with a jug hual after. Like this E2 by my old house, easy after the crux, but to get to the easy bit you had to climb a V5, simple as that. I dunno, if the climbing is far easier than the real meat of the climb... Kind of like how a 5.11 climb won't get an R rating if there is a 5.8R section on there. Anybody at that level should be able to cruise 5.8 with a bit of runout. let's just leave it at the fact that it is desperate. It's a mute point, I can't get to the "easy" section anyway. Do you mean moot?
No, I don't.
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caughtinside
Jul 8, 2008, 8:01 PM
Post #30 of 33
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The whole story on Rouhling is interesting. There were a lot of rumors about him prior to that Climbing article, like he had a plus 5 ape index (not true) or something like that.
There was never a chipping controversy. He did chip, just like most if not all of the french sport route developers at that time. Those were the days and those were the ways. As an aside, I know people get really upset anytime someone mentions glue or the 'C' word, but the fact is that many of the high end sport routes in this country are chipped and/or glued, although this seems to be much less frequent than it was in the 90s.
The heart of the controversy as I saw it, was that people just didn't believe he climbed Akira. Alternatively, they didn't believe Akira was .15b/9a+. The reason being that he wasn't really in the spotlight, and came out of nowhere to say he climbed something 2 whole grades harder than the world's hardest. Naturally this chafed egos and people called him a liar/exaggerator.
Alex Huber in that article points to the lack of progression, he wanted to see a list of .14+s that Rouhling did before Akira, and the list isn't there.
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sungam
Jul 8, 2008, 9:59 PM
Post #31 of 33
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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caughtinside wrote: The whole story on Rouhling is interesting. There were a lot of rumors about him prior to that Climbing article, like he had a plus 5 ape index (not true) or something like that. There was never a chipping controversy. He did chip, just like most if not all of the french sport route developers at that time. Those were the days and those were the ways. As an aside, I know people get really upset anytime someone mentions glue or the 'C' word, but the fact is that many of the high end sport routes in this country are chipped and/or glued, although this seems to be much less frequent than it was in the 90s. The heart of the controversy as I saw it, was that people just didn't believe he climbed Akira. Alternatively, they didn't believe Akira was .15b/9a+. The reason being that he wasn't really in the spotlight, and came out of nowhere to say he climbed something 2 whole grades harder than the world's hardest. Naturally this chafed egos and people called him a liar/exaggerator. Alex Huber in that article points to the lack of progression, he wanted to see a list of .14+s that Rouhling did before Akira, and the list isn't there.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jul 8, 2008, 10:03 PM
Post #32 of 33
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Registered: Oct 31, 2007
Posts: 19994
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sungam wrote: caughtinside wrote: The whole story on Rouhling is interesting. There were a lot of rumors about him prior to that Climbing article, like he had a plus 5 ape index (not true) or something like that. There was never a chipping controversy. He did chip, just like most if not all of the french sport route developers at that time. Those were the days and those were the ways. As an aside, I know people get really upset anytime someone mentions glue or the 'C' word, but the fact is that many of the high end sport routes in this country are chipped and/or glued, although this seems to be much less frequent than it was in the 90s. The heart of the controversy as I saw it, was that people just didn't believe he climbed Akira. Alternatively, they didn't believe Akira was .15b/9a+. The reason being that he wasn't really in the spotlight, and came out of nowhere to say he climbed something 2 whole grades harder than the world's hardest. Naturally this chafed egos and people called him a liar/exaggerator. Alex Huber in that article points to the lack of progression, he wanted to see a list of .14+s that Rouhling did before Akira, and the list isn't there. I have a +5 ape index, I'm 6'3", but I still can't climb 9a+!!! wtf, man!???!?
The current theory suggests you're weaksauce.
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sungam
Jul 8, 2008, 10:37 PM
Post #33 of 33
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: sungam wrote: caughtinside wrote: The whole story on Rouhling is interesting. There were a lot of rumors about him prior to that Climbing article, like he had a plus 5 ape index (not true) or something like that. There was never a chipping controversy. He did chip, just like most if not all of the french sport route developers at that time. Those were the days and those were the ways. As an aside, I know people get really upset anytime someone mentions glue or the 'C' word, but the fact is that many of the high end sport routes in this country are chipped and/or glued, although this seems to be much less frequent than it was in the 90s. The heart of the controversy as I saw it, was that people just didn't believe he climbed Akira. Alternatively, they didn't believe Akira was .15b/9a+. The reason being that he wasn't really in the spotlight, and came out of nowhere to say he climbed something 2 whole grades harder than the world's hardest. Naturally this chafed egos and people called him a liar/exaggerator. Alex Huber in that article points to the lack of progression, he wanted to see a list of .14+s that Rouhling did before Akira, and the list isn't there. I have a +5 ape index, I'm 6'3", but I still can't climb 9a+!!! wtf, man!???!? The current theory suggests you're weaksauce.
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