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Lazlo
Jul 23, 2008, 12:05 PM
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Summit of Shasta
(This post was edited by Lazlo on Jul 23, 2008, 12:09 PM)
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Matt on Shasta summit.jpg
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getout87
Jul 23, 2008, 12:08 PM
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I have never done any kind of alpine climbing or mountaineering, but from the pictures here and others that I have seen: totally worth it. I just wish I could afford it, was close enough to it, and could find somebody to teach me.
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Lazlo
Jul 23, 2008, 12:14 PM
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If you ever want to come out by way of California...we have some nice hills.
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getout87
Jul 23, 2008, 6:45 PM
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I very well might take you up on that offer one of these days.
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the_climber
Jul 23, 2008, 8:19 PM
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Nope, not worth it at all.
Note the 2 dots low down in the col. I'm the upper one.
Just shite.
(This post was edited by the_climber on Jul 23, 2008, 8:21 PM)
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Bug-snowpatch col Aug 28.jpg
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getout87
Jul 23, 2008, 9:17 PM
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the_climber wrote: Nope, not worth it at all. Note the 2 dots low down in the col. I'm the upper one. [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/6/8196-largest_78372.jpg[/image] Just shite.
Freaking amazing t_c
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originalsin
Aug 12, 2008, 8:20 PM
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j_ung
Aug 12, 2008, 8:28 PM
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Alpinism is neither.
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mar_leclerc
Aug 21, 2008, 4:41 AM
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lol.. nice thread.. I was like wtf??? alpinism is the shit then I saw that you were being sarcastic.... everything else is training for alpinins in my opinion
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dingus
Aug 21, 2008, 5:18 AM
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DMT
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Frigon
Aug 21, 2008, 6:21 AM
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It totally is. Me and my partner did our first alpine climb ever two days ago ( grade II 5.6 ). Just the both of us and whatever knowledge we had. You learn so much about yourself up there. I.m hooked!
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skinner
Aug 26, 2008, 7:28 PM
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dingus wrote: DMT
IMO.. Alpinism is it, the rest is just training, honing skills to be applied in the Alpine, but this photo definitely screams Alpine for me! The pain we forget so fast when looking at the photos later.. (and while planning the next trip).
Speaking of trips.. 2 months, and no TR? Now that you've teased us with the photo's.. do tell!
I'm sure I'm not the only one who's curious, what was involved in getting there, cost, weather, etc., etc. ?
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k.l.k
Aug 26, 2008, 7:37 PM
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skinner wrote: dingus wrote: [IMG]http://img463.imageshack.us/img463/5851/1909059imgof9.jpg[/IMG] DMT IMO.. Alpinism is it, the rest is just training, honing skills to be applied in the Alpine, but this photo definitely screams Alpine for me! The pain we forget so fast when looking at the photos later.. (and while planning the next trip).
Please. Killer weather. Blue skies. Tennis shoes. Tombstone granite. Sofa nap hammock. That's crag climbing.
Alpine climbing means waiting for it to get cold enough that the snot finally freezes and quits dripping off your chin.
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sungam
Aug 26, 2008, 7:49 PM
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k.l.k wrote: Alpine climbing means waiting for it to get cold enough that the snot finally freezes and quits dripping off your chin.
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dingus
Aug 26, 2008, 9:57 PM
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k.l.k wrote: skinner wrote: dingus wrote: [IMG]http://img463.imageshack.us/img463/5851/1909059imgof9.jpg[/IMG] DMT IMO.. Alpinism is it, the rest is just training, honing skills to be applied in the Alpine, but this photo definitely screams Alpine for me! The pain we forget so fast when looking at the photos later.. (and while planning the next trip). Please. Killer weather. Blue skies. Tennis shoes. Tombstone granite. Sofa nap hammock. That's crag climbing. Alpine climbing means waiting for it to get cold enough that the snot finally freezes and quits dripping off your chin.
See Californios don't go for all that 'falling serac on approach route' bullshit. We're not into a wasted summer of incessant rain and thunderstorm. We don't cotton to grumbling norsemen cursing our existence whilsst selling us fish meat pickled in battery acid. We don't really get into hard scrabbling up mountainous piles of kitty litter glued into a semi-coherent mass with pika piss. And no gay tram approaches, we hate mechanized bullshit in the wilderness, cept for the odd ski lift.
No.
We like our alpine with blue skies, a couple hundred days a year thank you very much. Summer AND Winter. We get more snow too! All our statespeople are mellow and welcoming. The mountains? Solid granite for the most part, splitter cracks and sharp clean edges. Protects well too. Our food is like totally West Coast, man! And we speet on gay tram approaches and garish pack colors.
On the other hand all our glacierettes are disappearing. So sad....
DMT
(This post was edited by dingus on Aug 26, 2008, 9:58 PM)
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k.l.k
Aug 26, 2008, 10:04 PM
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dingus wrote: Californios don't go for all that 'falling serac on approach route' bullshit. We're not into a wasted summer of incessant rain and thunderstorm. In reply to: Yeah, that's why I left the Cascades and moved to Cali. Our food is like totally West Coast, man! And we peet on gat tram approaches and garish pack colors.
Actually, I quite enjoy both tram approaches and garish pack colors. Although I find that with the proper climbs, my wrangler can replace the tram pretty effectively.
But let's face it-- the Sierras are alpinism's version of sport climbing.
Just ask any Cascades regular.
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dingus
Aug 26, 2008, 10:10 PM
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k.l.k wrote: dingus wrote: Californios don't go for all that 'falling serac on approach route' bullshit. We're not into a wasted summer of incessant rain and thunderstorm. In reply to: Yeah, that's why I left the Cascades and moved to Cali. Our food is like totally West Coast, man! And we peet on gat tram approaches and garish pack colors. Actually, I quite enjoy both tram approaches and garish pack colors. Although I find that with the proper climbs, my wrangler can replace the tram pretty effectively. But let's face it-- the Sierras are alpinism's version of sport climbing. Just ask any Cascades regular.
I would but they're all lost in some brush thicket, poor bastards.
DMT
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altelis
Aug 26, 2008, 10:23 PM
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dingus wrote: k.l.k wrote: dingus wrote: Californios don't go for all that 'falling serac on approach route' bullshit. We're not into a wasted summer of incessant rain and thunderstorm. In reply to: Yeah, that's why I left the Cascades and moved to Cali. Our food is like totally West Coast, man! And we peet on gat tram approaches and garish pack colors. Actually, I quite enjoy both tram approaches and garish pack colors. Although I find that with the proper climbs, my wrangler can replace the tram pretty effectively. But let's face it-- the Sierras are alpinism's version of sport climbing. Just ask any Cascades regular. I would but they're all lost in some brush thicket, poor bastards. DMT
God Bless the Devil's Club!
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sungam
Aug 26, 2008, 10:28 PM
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Haha, look at them trying to argue which comes second to scottish winter.
haha.
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dingus
Aug 26, 2008, 10:38 PM
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sungam wrote: Haha, look at them trying to argue which comes second to scottish winter. haha.
Enjoy. Haha.
DMT
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sungam
Aug 26, 2008, 10:51 PM
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dingus wrote: sungam wrote: Haha, look at them trying to argue which comes second to scottish winter. haha. Enjoy. Haha. DMT
Oh, I will :P
If I'm even here this winter >:-/
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skinner
Aug 27, 2008, 12:31 AM
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On Mount Edith Cavell one year, we came to a spot that we had been told was, "some nice bridging up good rock", when we looked around the corner what we saw was an almost vertical runnel plastered in a layer of real shitty rime. My partner yelled down to a party we had met on the route, "Hey,.. you guy are from Scotland right?.. Great, you can have this next lead!"
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sungam
Aug 27, 2008, 12:34 AM
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ROFL. sounds like the best conditions we get over here.
Well, the best ones that aren;t covered in folk from sheffield 
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the_climber
Aug 27, 2008, 4:24 PM
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skinner wrote: On Mount Edith Cavell one year, we came to a spot that we had been told was, "some nice bridging up good rock", when we looked around the corner what we saw was an almost vertical runnel plastered in a layer of real shitty rime. My partner yelled down to a party we had met on the route, "Hey,.. you guy are from Scotland right?.. Great, you can have this next lead!"
Sounds like the same experiance I had on Edith Cavell... only we didn't have a scottish group behind us, or anyone else for that matter. It was August long weekend and the temps were very much winter, there was tones of fresh snow up high, screaming barfies were abounding, just as much ice and snow was climbed as was rock, and we were placing ice screws on a few section of the ridge... Oh, and then there's the bizzard we were climbing in. It was one of those "safer to go up and over" days, cause damn... there was no way we wanted to go back the way we came. In good condition that route goes at 5.3, in the condition we climbed it in it was much closer to 5.7 M4
Sounds like it was similare to your trip skinner.
The hike out from Edith Cavell Sucks big time BTW. 8km of climbing up and over logs, and a long never ending slog, but it dumps you out 50 or 60 yards from the hostle.
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