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sungam
Aug 13, 2008, 5:15 PM
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andrewd wrote: majid_sabet wrote: andrewd wrote: I'm still waiting for his packing list....either he doesn't want to share trade secrets or he's just ignoring me  open you pack and let me see 1- knife 2- flashlligh 3-first aid kit for now till your list complete What?
"Make sure you remember your head torch, first aid kit, and knife"
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andrewd
Aug 13, 2008, 5:18 PM
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sungam wrote: andrewd wrote: majid_sabet wrote: andrewd wrote: I'm still waiting for his packing list....either he doesn't want to share trade secrets or he's just ignoring me open you pack and let me see 1- knife 2- flashlligh 3-first aid kit for now till your list complete What? I think (through my past experiance with the majidian langauge) that he is trying to say; "Make sure you remember your head torch, first aid kit, and knife"
Thanks for the translation....I was like "what the fuck is he talking about?"
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sungam
Aug 13, 2008, 5:25 PM
Post #53 of 83
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andrewd wrote: sungam wrote: andrewd wrote: majid_sabet wrote: andrewd wrote: I'm still waiting for his packing list....either he doesn't want to share trade secrets or he's just ignoring me open you pack and let me see 1- knife 2- flashlligh 3-first aid kit for now till your list complete What? I think (through my past experiance with the majidian langauge) that he is trying to say; "Make sure you remember your head torch, first aid kit, and knife" Thanks for the translation....I was like "what the fuck is he talking about?"
Luckily a PTFTW usually clears things up.
BTW always take a spare headtorch- a small one, like that alpkit indigo or petzl e-light.
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vterinme
Aug 14, 2008, 1:41 AM
Post #54 of 83
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Never seen the reason for a spare torch, batteries yes. As it is, a good light will have an extra bulb, so in lieu of a true electrical problem you're covered in one light. BTW, ever try to cross a crevasse field with a tiki, not fun (or in this case the wind blown alpine garden)..
For an East coast med kit, in which you're not on an expedition, Maxi pad or two, ace bandage, knife. For the most part all else is superfluous. You can make a splint with the ace bandage and other climbing gear on hand, and patch almost any wound with pad(s).
We're not talking some remote place with crap medical care, it's the NE, worst case scenario it's a slow day and night hike/rescue out. Infection will not set, aspirin will either be too slow to relieve or you're too f'd for it to matter. A level head and wilderness first aid will do more for the good of a group than all else.
Case in point: How much is a med kit going to help when your appendix inflames and you're on the other side of Jenny Lake during Sturgis?
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andrewd
Aug 14, 2008, 2:28 PM
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Yeah I think however this post turned into a "what to take on Mt. Washington" but my real question was more generic so that I could get a feel for each persons kit which is very situational indeed.
What i've learned: So along with proper study of your intended destination and route, you(one) should take proper care in designing a kit to meet every situation. So from what i've learned here is that there are basic "can't live without" things that most of you take and then there are your specialty items as well. I'd imagine that mountaineering and alpine climbing is 90% preparation and then 10% doing
Anyway I figured I'd make many mistakes on my first trip with no guide (allthough there was a stream of people to follow) and the only thing I would like to do at this piont is take a few weekends and do a course from someone who knows what the F they are doing. I'm sure it would be most helpfull when preparing mentally and as well as on the route.
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dingus
Aug 14, 2008, 2:59 PM
Post #56 of 83
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andrewd wrote: 'd imagine that mountaineering and alpine climbing is 90% preparation and then 10% doing
LOL You just keep telling yourself that my friend.
DMT
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sungam
Aug 14, 2008, 3:18 PM
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dingus wrote: andrewd wrote: 'd imagine that mountaineering and alpine climbing is 90% preparation and then 10% doing LOL You just keep telling yourself that my friend. DMT
Maybe in Kansas...
But we're not in Kansas anymore, toto.
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majid_sabet
Aug 14, 2008, 4:39 PM
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sungun
Are you done lecturing the poor guy on what to pack?
With your list of goodies (and stuff that you keep adding) I hope you never go for any expedition cause you may never leave the hotel room.
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sungam
Aug 14, 2008, 4:45 PM
Post #59 of 83
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majid_sabet wrote: sungun Are you done lecturing the poor guy on what to pack? With your list of goodies (and stuff that you keep adding) I hope you never go for any expedition cause you may never leave the hotel room.
Often I would take more then that, for comfort.
And I don't get a sherpa to carry it for me.
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majid_sabet
Aug 14, 2008, 4:54 PM
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sungam wrote: majid_sabet wrote: sungun Are you done lecturing the poor guy on what to pack? With your list of goodies (and stuff that you keep adding) I hope you never go for any expedition cause you may never leave the hotel room. Like he said- it's your list for what your doing, and like I said, thats for a couple of days winter climbing from a base-bivi. Often I would take more then that, for comfort. And I don't get a sherpa to carry it for me.
did you go to English school ? say more than that not more then that
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tomtom
Aug 14, 2008, 4:58 PM
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vterinme wrote: Never seen the reason for a spare torch, batteries yes. As it is, a good light will have an extra bulb, so in lieu of a true electrical problem you're covered in one light. BTW, ever try to cross a crevasse field with a tiki, not fun (or in this case the wind blown alpine garden)..
I carry a Petzl E-lite as my backup bulb and battery. Last year on an alpine rock climb, my partner spent 20 minutes digging through his pack at a belay, looking for his headlamp. Ended up following the pitch in the dark. When he got up to the next belay, I handed him my spare headlamp and he was off climbing up to the bivy ledge. We found his headlamp the next day when we retreated. He had pulled it out of his pack earlier when rummaging around but didn't put it back.
Instead of fiddling with bulbs or batteries, I find it easier just to grab a spare headlamp. The E-lite weighs less than a couple AA batteries and is pretty bright. The lithium coin batteries can last through the night.
Works for me.
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altelis
Aug 14, 2008, 5:03 PM
Post #62 of 83
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andrewd wrote: What i've learned: So along with proper study of your intended destination and route, you(one) should take proper care in designing a kit to meet every situation. So from what i've learned here is that there are basic "can't live without" things that most of you take and then there are your specialty items as well. I'd imagine that mountaineering and alpine climbing is 90% preparation and then 10% doing
I think that pretty much you don't get it AT ALL.
Initially take the kitchen sink, because you don't know what skills you have and what skills you can count on. The more experience you have the more you'll be able to gage under what conditions you can keep going under, how you respond to stormy cramped bivies, etc. In the beginning, the weather hits the fan and you'll most likely stop. Or keep going and get hurt. Or keep going and realize you feel pretty comforatble in these situations.
Either way, you'll learn. Either that you need more time out in the mountains before you feel comfortable stripping items (or food), or that you can start vastly reducing the size of your pack.
BUT ITS ONLY EXPERIENCE (*********your OWN experience**********) that can tell you what you are capable of and what you can do without. Our suggestions are only that, and only based upon OUR abilities and OUR specific mountains.
e.g.---I went to school at Colby and as such spent more time than I should have on Mt. Washington and her neighbors. I brought a pretty small bag, but it always included at least a hard-shell top, extra mittens, a SYNTHETIC puffy jacket and a pair of goggles (usually I was in glasses) and an extra pair of socks (they are multi-talented.....).
But then I moved out to Salt Lake, and the Wasatch are a totally different animal. For an extra layer I only brought a light DOWN jacket, and that was only SOMETIMES. Usually I just had my softshell that would stay in the bag till belaying/skiing DOWNHILL. The snow was dry and if it percipitated a softshell was always enough (except in the shoulder seasons) protection. No extra socks, no hardshell, but yes extra pair of gloves (they were SUPER warm gloves). Thats it: soft shell top, water, (beacon, shovel, probe--if skiing), 2 packets of gu. But this was only after a couple outings over a week or so to get an idea of the weather patterns , knowing what I could and couldn't depend on.
YOU need to decide, but you also need to understand that to really excel in this sport much of your "kit" to keep you out of danger is your EXPERIENCE and ABILITY. This isn't something you throw in a pack and carry on your shoulders. But you can't start skimping on the material aspects of the kit till you start building the mental/physical part.
GOT IT?
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sungam
Aug 14, 2008, 5:08 PM
Post #63 of 83
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majid_sabet wrote: sungam wrote: majid_sabet wrote: sungun Are you done lecturing the poor guy on what to pack? With your list of goodies (and stuff that you keep adding) I hope you never go for any expedition cause you may never leave the hotel room. Like he said- it's your list for what your doing, and like I said, thats for a couple of days winter climbing from a base-bivi. Often I would take more then that, for comfort. And I don't get a sherpa to carry it for me. did you go to English school ? say more than that not more then that
TBH I don't really give a feck when I'm talking to you- I figure you can't understand the grammar or spelling anyway.
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andrewd
Aug 14, 2008, 5:16 PM
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I think you misunderstood my comment. Basically what I was stating is that every situation can be different and studying each situation (as you do it) gives experience and that experience will all you to grow and progress with each trip. So I wasn't saying that I think I can go out this very second and strip half my pack out because "I think i know what I'm doing" I was mearly stating that as i learn more about the sport i'll understand what I need....because it ultimately has nothing to do with any of you and what you take. My key objectives are to have fun and be safe as (as much as possible) So as far as I'm concerned you just reiterated what I stated.
And that 10% doing is based on "time on the mountain" not physical exertion. How many weeks do you typically prepare for a big trip? You spend some time packing, you spend time learning the area and you spend time training. I think its a fair assesment based on my previous experience with backpacking and climbing....anyone dissagree?
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altelis
Aug 14, 2008, 5:22 PM
Post #65 of 83
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andrewd wrote: And that 10% doing is based on "time on the mountain" not physical exertion. How many weeks do you typically prepare for a big trip? You spend some time packing, you spend time learning the area and you spend time training. I think its a fair assesment based on my previous experience with backpacking and climbing....anyone dissagree?
You train by doing.....kinda. But I don't tend to backpack as training. I train by climbing LOTS of pitches in a single day. I try to do as many multipitch routes back to back as I can from sun-up to sun-down (or maybe push that out a little). Bike a lot (cause I don't run). Thats about it, besides reading up on routes, weather patterns etc. if its not in my "home" range....
mainly though for routes in my area, i pretty much pick an objective, read a description if available, pack my bag and go. i live my life in a way that keeps me in decent shape, which helps if you have limited trip windows and time to truly train. that way when a partner calls and says "you want to do x this weekend" (on a thursday night....) you can say HELL YA and feel prepared.
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dingus
Aug 14, 2008, 5:39 PM
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andrewd wrote: I think its a fair assesment based on my previous experience with backpacking and climbing....anyone dissagree?
What difference does it make. Go climbing Mate!
DMT
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epoch
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Aug 14, 2008, 5:39 PM
Post #67 of 83
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andrewd wrote: I'm reading about mountaineering (Freedom of the hills) But I have no alpine experience and I'm curious to get others opinions on what they take when going for a non-technical summit at say 14k feet, with temps at a low of 0 and 20-30mph wind. And lets say you are planning on spending the night . Seems like you could share a good bit of gear with your partner(s) Anyone want to entertain this one? We can limit it to the essential gear as well since, I don't care so much about your lucky chapstick I'm just comparing the recommended kit from the book to what people are actually using.
Nontechnical summit pack for the above described scenario:
45L - 50L pack; its contents are:
25° down bag [wear your clothing to bed, and you'll save on bulk]
Full-length sleeping pad strapped to the outside
bivy sack
3 lbs of food [major meals are of the dehydrated type]
lightweight stove & pot (Jetboils rule this department)
enough fuel for the night (if ISO-Butane then a small canister) [my stove choice is conditions dependent]
Down jacket
2 pr socks
flashlight
triage kit [most of it is in my head]
matches
extra gloves
1 nalgene bottle
3L watter bladder
Bowl
Spoon
Sharp knife
compass [with thermometer]
altimiter/barometer
map [modded to just where I'm going and waterproofed]
I wear:
Soft shell pants
long underware
poly t-shirt
poly long sleeve shirt
fleece
Soft Shell Jacket
Wool hat
Glasses [Goggles - conditions dependent]
gloves
footwear [conditions dependant]
Some things that are entirely dependent on the conditions that I'll be in are:
crampons
trekking poles
ice axe
probe
shovel
tranciever
tent
harness
rope
small rack [winter or summer rack]
helmet
skis and boots
EDIT: I've been know to go overnight with a 35L pack in horrid conditions with a similar set up.
(This post was edited by epoch on Aug 14, 2008, 6:46 PM)
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andrewd
Aug 14, 2008, 6:06 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: sungam wrote: majid_sabet wrote: sungun Are you done lecturing the poor guy on what to pack? With your list of goodies (and stuff that you keep adding) I hope you never go for any expedition cause you may never leave the hotel room. Like he said- it's your list for what your doing, and like I said, thats for a couple of days winter climbing from a base-bivi. Often I would take more then that, for comfort. And I don't get a sherpa to carry it for me. did you go to English school ? say more than that not more then that
Ha ha ha ARE YOU KIDDING ME?!? Since when do we point out peoples grammer mistakes? Who gives a shit?
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majid_sabet
Aug 14, 2008, 6:15 PM
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sungam wrote: majid_sabet wrote: sungam wrote: majid_sabet wrote: sungun Are you done lecturing the poor guy on what to pack? With your list of goodies (and stuff that you keep adding) I hope you never go for any expedition cause you may never leave the hotel room. Like he said- it's your list for what your doing, and like I said, thats for a couple of days winter climbing from a base-bivi. Often I would take more then that, for comfort. And I don't get a sherpa to carry it for me. did you go to English school ? say more than that not more then that Nah mate- a scottish school. TBH I don't really give a feck when I'm talking to you- I figure you can't understand the grammar or spelling anyway.
ohh so now the english professor who has been flaming me over my way of experssing my points is using his own grammer / spelling mistakes as an excuse.
In English, this is called “hypocrite” aka hypocrite double sided bastard
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yokese
Aug 14, 2008, 6:22 PM
Post #70 of 83
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majid_sabet wrote: sungam wrote: majid_sabet wrote: sungam wrote: majid_sabet wrote: sungun Are you done lecturing the poor guy on what to pack? With your list of goodies (and stuff that you keep adding) I hope you never go for any expedition cause you may never leave the hotel room. Like he said- it's your list for what your doing, and like I said, thats for a couple of days winter climbing from a base-bivi. Often I would take more then that, for comfort. And I don't get a sherpa to carry it for me. did you go to English school ? say more than that not more then that Nah mate- a scottish school. TBH I don't really give a feck when I'm talking to you- I figure you can't understand the grammar or spelling anyway. ohh so now the english professor who has been flaming me over my way of experssing my points is using his own grammer / spelling mistakes as an excuse. In English, this is called “hypocrite” aka hypocrite double sided bastard
What is grammer?
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csproul
Aug 14, 2008, 6:27 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: sungam wrote: majid_sabet wrote: sungun Are you done lecturing the poor guy on what to pack? With your list of goodies (and stuff that you keep adding) I hope you never go for any expedition cause you may never leave the hotel room. Like he said- it's your list for what your doing, and like I said, thats for a couple of days winter climbing from a base-bivi. Often I would take more then that, for comfort. And I don't get a sherpa to carry it for me. did you go to English school ? say more than that not more then that
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majid_sabet
Aug 14, 2008, 6:43 PM
Post #72 of 83
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csproul wrote: majid_sabet wrote: sungam wrote: majid_sabet wrote: sungun Are you done lecturing the poor guy on what to pack? With your list of goodies (and stuff that you keep adding) I hope you never go for any expedition cause you may never leave the hotel room. Like he said- it's your list for what your doing, and like I said, thats for a couple of days winter climbing from a base-bivi. Often I would take more then that, for comfort. And I don't get a sherpa to carry it for me. did you go to English school ? say more than that not more then that You have truly hit rock bottom when majid is correcting your grammar
English is not my first language so for the rest of my life I will deal with both spelling and grammar issues and I do not get offended by RC users pointing my mistakes. In fact, I think RCers are doing me a favor by promoting me to be better in writing but, for an English professor who happens to be in Scotland, making mistakes in English grammar is unacceptable. If I was him, I would jump off some big wall and ended my life for making grammar mistakes.
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epoch
Moderator
Aug 14, 2008, 6:52 PM
Post #73 of 83
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majid_sabet wrote: csproul wrote: majid_sabet wrote: sungam wrote: majid_sabet wrote: sungun Are you done lecturing the poor guy on what to pack? With your list of goodies (and stuff that you keep adding) I hope you never go for any expedition cause you may never leave the hotel room. Like he said- it's your list for what your doing, and like I said, thats for a couple of days winter climbing from a base-bivi. Often I would take more then that, for comfort. And I don't get a sherpa to carry it for me. did you go to English school ? say more than that not more then that You have truly hit rock bottom when majid is correcting your grammar English is not my first language[;] so for the rest of my life I will deal with both spelling and grammar issues and I do not get offended by RC users pointing [out] my mistakes. In fact, I think RCers are doing me a favor by promoting me to be [a] better in writing [writer][,] but , for an English professor who happens to be in Scotland [behind the desk of a cheap-ass hotel], making mistakes in English grammar is unacceptable. If I was [were] him, I would jump off some big wall and end ed my life for making grammar mistakes.
Yeah, buddy!
[One hell of a run-on, but it's a start...]
[EDIT: Edit FAIL!]
(This post was edited by epoch on Aug 14, 2008, 6:55 PM)
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glahhg
Aug 14, 2008, 7:31 PM
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tomtom wrote: vterinme wrote: Never seen the reason for a spare torch, batteries yes. As it is, a good light will have an extra bulb, so in lieu of a true electrical problem you're covered in one light. BTW, ever try to cross a crevasse field with a tiki, not fun (or in this case the wind blown alpine garden).. I carry a Petzl E-lite as my backup bulb and battery. Last year on an alpine rock climb, my partner spent 20 minutes digging through his pack at a belay, looking for his headlamp. Ended up following the pitch in the dark. When he got up to the next belay, I handed him my spare headlamp and he was off climbing up to the bivy ledge. We found his headlamp the next day when we retreated. He had pulled it out of his pack earlier when rummaging around but didn't put it back. Instead of fiddling with bulbs or batteries, I find it easier just to grab a spare headlamp. The E-lite weighs less than a couple AA batteries and is pretty bright. The lithium coin batteries can last through the night. Works for me.
I agree.
I carry 3 spare AAA batteries and I store them in a convenient carrying case: an extra headlamp. The extra headlamp weighs nothing compared to the batteries, and it's much easier to grab the extra headlamp than to mess with changing out batts.
Also, I'll 2nd what altelis says above. You gotta go out a few times and experiment with what you take and what you actually use, then stop taking the extra crap you don't need.
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sungam
Aug 14, 2008, 9:13 PM
Post #75 of 83
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majid_sabet wrote: sungam wrote: majid_sabet wrote: sungam wrote: majid_sabet wrote: sungun Are you done lecturing the poor guy on what to pack? With your list of goodies (and stuff that you keep adding) I hope you never go for any expedition cause you may never leave the hotel room. Like he said- it's your list for what your doing, and like I said, thats for a couple of days winter climbing from a base-bivi. Often I would take more then that, for comfort. And I don't get a sherpa to carry it for me. did you go to English school ? say more than that not more then that Nah mate- a scottish school. TBH I don't really give a feck when I'm talking to you- I figure you can't understand the grammar or spelling anyway. ohh so now the english professor who has been flaming me over my way of experssing my points is using his own grammer / spelling mistakes as an excuse. In English, this is called “hypocrite” aka hypocrite double sided bastard
So THATS why you post armchair bullshit! You don't care about the n00bs reading it!
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