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tanderson
Mar 21, 2002, 3:41 AM
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All right... I have to represent the South Western region of PA. I know there's a lot of climbing in Eeastern and Central PA, but you can't leave the Western side unmentioned. We've got an abundance of climbing Trad, Sport, and TR. We've got boulders poking out ALL over Chestnut Ridge (Way too many areas to mention). You could spend a lifetime climbing on them. We've Got and Area 51 as well. Its home to many different climbing areas: The Knobs, The Lost Crag, Krahlack, Fish Rocks, Coll's Cove, Rattlesnake Rocks, Elk Rock. Then there's Connellsville areas such as Uncle Joe's, Spruce Hollow, The newly developed Breakneck Rocks (white rocks) to the locals. We've got LOADS of climbing so I just had to make mention of our side of the state. o'yeah all these climbing areas are within 45min of any each other. You folks from the other parts of this great state that are thinking what the hell is this guy talking about - Get in touch... I be happy to give you a weekend tour anytime!
Happy Climbing
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funk29
Mar 21, 2002, 4:16 AM
Post #27 of 50
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I am only eperience with the climbing in Lancaster Pa, and I biasedly think it is far supeirior to the rest of the state...just kidding. I would love to check out other areas, in Central pa, etc. I think a Pa climber coalition(?) would be agreat idea! There is no organization and dare i say motivation between climbers in pa. A prime example...Is there a guide for Chickies rock? "one of pa best climbing areas?..." Is there any comprehensive guiede for climbing in pa? No. We need organized beta. So i guess i will live the rest of my life out here in Utah, and suffer the tough life...Bondservant to Big Walls in Zion.
oh yea Mt Gretna bouldering is sweet! An Awsome off-with roof there, three stars! For real, next to off-widths, i prefer RURP's.
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rwaltermyer
Mar 21, 2002, 4:06 PM
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Funk....
To respond to your comment...
Is there a Climbing Coalition? YES...check out the post of the PA Climbing Coalition.
As far as more recent guides goes... I agree. We need a new one! I've heard rumors from kagunkie that he's helping organize one and also Eric Horst is considering it as well. Until either one of them step to the plate, look no further than right HERE for the most BETA on PA Climbing. I'm proud to brag about that one. But, yes, a guide would be nice!
Randy
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dunger
Mar 21, 2002, 4:51 PM
Post #29 of 50
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There's some great bouldering at Shaffer Rocks as well as a good varity of TR stuff (5.6 - 5.12). Chickies is great trad and the Sex Wall rules!! I can't wait to see Governor Stable this weekend for the competition. There's still spots open to climb. Check out www.paclimbers.com for more info.
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awsclimber
Apr 26, 2002, 10:10 AM
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For sport definately safe harbor. Its of course closed, so climb at a 300 dollar and a rack risk. 60+ routes from ~8-13C?. Lowest bolts were smashed by the railroad company, which can make for some hairy starts......all around a great weekday place though.
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spremegoat
May 11, 2002, 4:11 PM
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Eric Horst wrote a guide to chickies back in the 80's and i hear that someone is trying to make an updated version of it... Personally i am a big fan of chickies (although i haven't been to too many other places). Actually i was thinking that a charitable fundraiser chickies climbing comp this coming fall or late summer would be very cool..any interest? Oh by the way, does anbody know of any crags closer to hershey that a half an hour? gretna and chickies aren't too far but it would be nice...
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rwaltermyer
May 15, 2002, 1:33 PM
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Well...if you've never been to Governor Stables, than you owe it to yourself to join the PAC and check out the bouldering there! I skeptical of it at first (because its the same rock as Gretna) but the highball are amazing! The Stables are on the Lancaster side on the river next to TMI. You must join the PAC to gain access. www.paclimbers.com for more information.
[ This Message was edited by: rwaltermyer on 2002-05-15 06:34 ]
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rwaltermyer
May 15, 2002, 1:40 PM
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But personally, I'm not so sure about a comp at Chickies. Perhaps a clean-up or fix-up would be better (those steps up the right side of the crag would be nice). I guess, I'm not much of a trad climber so Chickies really doesnt ring a chord with me. Regardless, (Correct me if I'm wrong) the only two climbable spots are when you first come in the short 5.9s, and than the main wall. Is there any solid routes from the bouldering cave until you get to the obvious main wall.
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climbinganne
May 15, 2002, 1:54 PM
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DRULINTS:
Arn't you a lucky boy living in Lancaster Co.... Sex wall is hard stuff...and we both know there are better sport areas in Lancaster county....about 15 minutes South of Chickies on 441???? I must drive 45 to an hour each way 3 times a week to get to your area.
Have you been to Birdsboro outside of Reading? That's some good sport too.
KEITH, would love to show you Chickies and some other stuff...maybe we can get Lew to drive a couple hours to meet us...make it a weekend, I have a friend in Millersville that offered us her yard to camp...big hot tub, swimming pool, and poss. a kayaking afternoon...wanna shoot for late June??
RWALTERMYER...there is clean up at Chickies, everytime I climb, I get a trashbag full of stuff left there, so tired of touching other ppls cigarette butts. And as far as I have heard, Eric is still working on that guide for Chickies. Most of us are aware that Eric has made South/Central Pa the great sport area that it is....thanks, Eric!!
[ This Message was edited by: climbinganne on 2002-05-15 07:14 ]
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climbracer
May 15, 2002, 3:50 PM
Post #35 of 50
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So far I like the Delaware Water Gap the best. Multi-pitch was fun and there are no crowds there. The quartzite was excellent for smearing. I'm extremely scared of slabs, but the smears were easy there for the most part. The view was fantastic, too!
Chickies was crowded when I went there last summer. Ropes everywhere!!!
Birdsboro is my training area. It's local and so far no crowds during the week. The weekends will fill up soon.
I do want to hit the Lost Crag, Bellefonte and Mononaqua (sp?) this summer. I prefer no crowds. Then, I can pee in the woods without an audience!
Kathy
[ This Message was edited by: climbracer on 2002-06-08 02:29 ]
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rwaltermyer
May 17, 2002, 1:44 AM
Post #36 of 50
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I was fortunate enough to have an Atmosphere class and Eric was my prof at the 'Ville. We talked about Chickies and He kinda laughted it off. He's more into Seneca, New River Gorge, or the Gunks. It doesnt sound like he's too worried about little 'ol Chickies. 15 years ago when he was still a "local" (when he wrote that Chickies guide) maybe that place still entertained him. I think its safe to say that not anymore!
He did tell me that he recently set a new .13 at Birdsboro. Lancaster's sport climbing (and Central PA climbing period) has plenty to awe to Eric. He has mentioned working on a PA guidebook. However, Rob Holtzman (from Scanton area) seems to have beat him to it (supposedly!) We'll see though. Unfortunately most of Lancaster's climbing is closed especially Safe Harbor as discussed earlier.
Thats why the PAC makes so much sense for Lancaster. We need to rally around such an organization to open up Safe Harbor and Sex Wall (maybe the Caldron too)
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charrock
May 17, 2002, 12:40 PM
Post #37 of 50
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Registered: Dec 14, 2001
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Hey folks: Sounds like PA has lots of good areas for climbing. The problem with PA (sorry) is the rules and regs. I've never seen a more "policed" state than PA. As a kayaker we have lost many put ins and take outs and parking areas in this state. Boats need licensing, fees for launching, time slots.....on and on. Some of the rivers are actually owned by people that own the shoreline. In the rest of the nation ALL navigable waters are not owned but useable by all. They actually use laws and deeds that date back to the king of England(didn't we win that war). Anyway I've got issues with this state so will join the group and hopefully we can reclaim a little of what was lost. The state is great, just a lot of the laws suck. Charlie
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climbracer
May 17, 2002, 1:24 PM
Post #38 of 50
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Charrock, You sure do have that right on the PA laws. Some of the people here are in the dark ages. This certainly is the rust belt. The FOPs (freakin old people) run the show and can't get the heads out of their butts. I say that shoreline law on some website, can't recall though. My kids want to go rafting on the Schuylkill River, but I don't want to get busted. I did it years ago and can't remember where I started and ended.
Randy, The other night Mitchal and I met a guy who saw Eric doing that route at Birdsboro. Love Eric's Training For Climbing website. I can't wait for his new book due out in June.
Kathy
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rwaltermyer
May 21, 2002, 3:39 AM
Post #39 of 50
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So my fellow PA Climbers...lets bring this ongoing discussion to a close, perhaps by highlighting the top notch areas (wouldn't it be nice/cool to have a satifaction rating for the areas or the ability to highlight the areas in a different font color or something which are considered worth it)
As well, this may seem repetitive, but sum up the main concerns and points for PA climbers to consider....
Obviously, ACCESS. Lower Susquehanna Valley (Sex Wall, Safe Harbor), OTHERS?
Discussions such as these really reinforce the PAC purpose and need to unite our forces into an organization and start taking actions. DAVE, PA Climbing owes alot to you (as well as the other founding fathers)!
May God Bless You and the Hope Found is Him be Revealed! Randy
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askn4trouble
Jun 4, 2002, 2:57 AM
Post #40 of 50
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Where are "the chickies"?please
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climbracer
Jun 4, 2002, 3:20 AM
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listArea.php?AreaID=50
Hope this helps! If not, PM me.
Kathy
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farmerc
Jun 4, 2002, 3:33 AM
Post #42 of 50
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Chikies rock is a cliff on the east side of the susquehanna north of columbia. to get there take route 30 and get off at the last exit before crossing the river into york, go north (uphill) on route 441 and go over the crest of the hill. a parking lot will be on the left. park here if you wanna top rope and check out the view. to set up your TR, walk back the 1/2 mile of trail and then walk halfway down the access trail on the left. If you wanna lead trad, then go past the parking lot and go to the bottom of the hill and park in front of the small grass field. walk back the trail and you'lll be at the bottom of the rock.
ALSO!!!!! This is important to any climber in the susquehanna valley area. Please do not climb at safe harbor and please avoid railroad property at this point in time, the Lancaster Climbing Club is trying to work with the railroad to make access a possibility. If you are caught tresspassing on Norfolk Southern property, it could greatly hinder the LCC's efforts to open access up to everyone. The Lancaster Climbing Club can be contacted at their site: www.geocities.com/lancasterclimbingclub
Thanks for listening to my two cents
Chris
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climbinganne
Jun 4, 2002, 3:34 AM
Post #43 of 50
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HEY EVERYBODY....I think I got a hold of all the Beta for Chickies...if anyone is interested....PM me...it should be waiting for me when i get back from UTAH!!!
toodles...anne
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teagueblue
Sep 19, 2003, 3:24 PM
Post #44 of 50
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Did anyone ever get real beta for the Area 51 that is supposed to be near Blue Mountain Ski Area? Just curious where it is. I've hiked around there quite a bit and haven't seen any worthwhile boulders.
Chuck
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roclimb
Sep 19, 2003, 3:42 PM
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Registered: Nov 27, 2001
Posts: 452
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Chuck area 51 is real real good. Its like bouldering J-tree in CA. I cant post directs here due to some ethical considerations PM me or give me a call if you need directions. Its real easy to find.
~Rob
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dontfall
Sep 19, 2003, 3:58 PM
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Registered: Mar 31, 2003
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In reply to: When you say Bowmanstown, are you referring to Stoney Ridge?
Is Stoney Ridge an area that isn't climbed much or it is, just not mentioned a whole lot? By the way, Stoney is a awesome place to climb at, good for T.R. , sport and Trad. Bad for bouldering, shady landings. The Library is another good place. I was there recently and the place is climbing heaven for some good Trad and Sport.
Chris
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dredsovrn
Sep 19, 2003, 4:08 PM
Post #47 of 50
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Registered: May 24, 2003
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I don't know that I have climbed enough places in PA to say which one is best, but I will throw in my comments anyway. I have had a great time top roping routes on the northwest buttress at Chickies and bouldering in the cave this summer. Rocky Ridge park has some great bouldering problems as well, although not a ton of them. One particularly tall problem at Rocky Ridge had my heart in my throat as I pulled over the top. I like Voodoo Climbing Gym in New Cumberland when it rains. Not huge, but plenty to work on and the right atmosphere. I have also heard that Whisky Springs is great for bouldering. I am looking forward to getting out to some of the places listed and meeting more PA climbers.
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roclimb
Sep 19, 2003, 5:00 PM
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Stony is quite popular, just not mentioned a lot cause it is a little sensitive. I have personally never had a problem climbing there though
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sharpender
Sep 19, 2003, 6:04 PM
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drulints wroteIn reply to: so that I don't waist my time looking for the crappy climbs....
great word play man. I know you meant waste, but if you go all the way out there and wrap a harness around your waist.... well there you go. 8)
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walllizzard
Nov 11, 2003, 4:06 AM
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Posts: 119
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LIke many have said already Pa offers many great climbing areas. I live in lancaster county and am very partial to Mt Gretna, Gov Stables, actually many more areas around E-town, gretna if ya know where to look. I have been to Maq and Tillberry, both great places to climb, can be a little crowded. Till berry has an awesome roof problem, not real hard but a screamer if ya come off. If anyone is intersted in climbing around Gretna or E-town let me know, im pretty familiar with the area. I curren tly have a map of Gretna and more than willing to share. Im in the process of remaking a map of all the boulders i can find in gretna, usiing a GPS, so all will be able to find with ease. Just remember, dont shoot down others for loving an area, i have seen many climbers become snooty, just because they go west or climb all the " Real" climbs. As a truly emerging sport we need all the support that we can find.
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