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adeptus
Sep 17, 2008, 2:08 PM
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sungam
Sep 17, 2008, 3:46 PM
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Almost anything in antartica? For arguments sake we'll say "there's a moose loose aboot this hoose" on moose rock. Fitzroy? I guess you have a couple in pati already, but can you get enough? The Cerro link-up? (ooops, you said do-able )
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adeptus
Sep 17, 2008, 5:15 PM
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adeptus
Sep 17, 2008, 5:17 PM
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dingus
Sep 17, 2008, 5:39 PM
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You need a Baffin contender on your list brother! DMT
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skiclimb
Sep 17, 2008, 5:50 PM
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Hunter Southeast Spur (history and difficulty) Logan - Hummingbird Ridge Latok-1 North ridge
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dingus
Sep 17, 2008, 5:53 PM
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skiclimb wrote: Logan - Hummingbird Ridge He said no snow slogs. Maybe the Shovel Traverse isn't his cup of tea, quien sabe? Cheers! DMT
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graniteboy
Sep 18, 2008, 10:41 PM
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About Logan's Hummingbird as a "snow slog"..... What he asked for was history, commitment and reputation. The hummingbird has beat the shit out of and turned back people like Mugs.....and killed people like Cheesmond and Catherine Freer. All of whom were far Manlier alpinists than the girly men frequenting this pseudo alpinist cyber-poofter-fest at RC.com. Snow slog, indeed. Go take a fast afternoon lap on it in your designer PJs if it's such a slog, DMT. Has it even had a 3rd ascent yet? I remember that Dave (Nettle) did it awhile back...maybe in the early 90s....and damn near starved to death getting down off the thing. Only survived because he found a food and fuel cache from Brad Washburn's 1968 trip. I'd put it on the list of to dos. It's definitely on mine. It's long, it's technical, it's at altitude, It's kicked the hell out of alot of damned good Alaskan climbers, and it gets the hell knocked out of it by the Pacific storm cycle. Snow slog my ass.
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quiteatingmysteak
Sep 18, 2008, 10:56 PM
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adeptus wrote: I have recently been thinking about how I choose my alpine routes and realized that the history, reputation and commitment of the route are the most important factors. I am talking about routes like North Face of the Eiger, Compressor route on Cerro Torre and Cassin Ridge on Denali. The reason I’m asking this is that most of us (who are not professional) only have time for a certain amount of routes in our career, so I would like to pick out THE alpine classics route list with hard, committing but doable routes (no altitude snow slogs and no extreme free climbs). Apart from the mentioned routes these other routes come to mind: -Changabang, North Face, British 1997 route -Fitz Roy, Super Couloir -Cerro Torre, West Face, Ferrai route -Cerro Standhart, Exocet -Mont Blanc, Grand Pilier D’Angel -Matterhorn, North Face -Hunter, Moonflower Buttress -Foraker, Infinite Spur -Ama Dablam, West Face -Cholatse, North Face -Kwangde, North Face -Nameless Tower, (any route) What other routes would qualify for this list? (Please don’t respond if you got nothing serious to contribute) Denali Diamond Grand Voyage Walker Spur Everest West Ridge Emperor Face North Face of Alberta some of these are pretty epic, but heck, if you say infinite spur counts... :D Some idears.....
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graniteboy
Sep 18, 2008, 11:33 PM
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Denali diamond, not. It's basically a death mousetrap waiting to snuff someone with that big frikkin serac face sitting above it. If we're looking a climb that requires some actual technical skill and not just dumb luck......the fathers and sons face, over in the Peters basin........now that's a fine looking route. It's been done once, to my knowledge. Stevie H.
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irregularpanda
Sep 18, 2008, 11:43 PM
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This has potential to be a great conversation..... to the OP, what do you define as "too extreme"? This would help me add several.
quiteatingmysteak wrote: Denali Diamond Grand Voyage Walker Spur Everest West Ridge Emperor Face North Face of Alberta On Mt. Rainier there is the Fuhrer's finger, which is a short and steep attack on the summit. It's easy if you start early enough and can climb 60 degree ice for an entire day, and it would be great training for denali or some of your other uber hard alpine climbs. Similarly, the complete north ridge of Mt stuart is amazing, and moderate by my definition (1 pitch 5.8, 3 pitches 5.7, and 3 pitches 5.9, and endless 4th class terrain) and it has beautiful exposure and views of two glaciers for much of the climb. If that's not your thing (moderate rock) Check out the girth pillar on mt stuart. Apparently it only feels like 5.10 if you climb @ index. Seriously though, isn't stuart the shittiest name for a mountain? That beast should be called Dizzy Horn.
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dingus
Sep 18, 2008, 11:46 PM
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graniteboy wrote: About Logan's Hummingbird as a "snow slog"..... What he asked for was history, commitment and reputation. The hummingbird has beat the shit out of and turned back people like Mugs.....and killed people like Cheesmond and Catherine Freer. All of whom were far Manlier alpinists than the girly men frequenting this pseudo alpinist cyber-poofter-fest at RC.com. Snow slog, indeed. Go take a fast afternoon lap on it in your designer PJs if it's such a slog, DMT. Oooooo I sense a rant coming on. And I don't like your tone. No YOU go climg the shovel traverse hoss, report back here when you're done. I know well enough the history of that ridge - it included a mile of SNOW SHOVELING. You may now resume your rant. DMT
(This post was edited by dingus on Sep 18, 2008, 11:47 PM)
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sungam
Sep 18, 2008, 11:54 PM
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dingus wrote: I know well enough the history of that ridge - it included a mile of SNOW SHOVELING. Fuuunnnnnn.
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graniteboy
Sep 19, 2008, 12:08 AM
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NO, I will now resume laughing my ass of at the concept of someone from TENNESEE claiming to know anything at all about alpinism . HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHH!!!!!!!!!!
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sungam
Sep 19, 2008, 12:14 AM
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graniteboy wrote: NO, I will now resume laughing my ass of at the concept of someone from TENNESEE claiming to know anything at all about alpinism . HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHH!!!!!!!!!! Um.... You, being from the mighty state of whogivesashit, would know so much extra about a route on the other side of the world, yes? You're acting like a moron just now...
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crotch
Sep 19, 2008, 12:34 AM
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dingus
Sep 19, 2008, 1:05 AM
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graniteboy wrote: NO, I will now resume laughing my ass of at the concept of someone from TENNESEE claiming to know anything at all about alpinism . HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHH!!!!!!!!!! Hehe. You sure told me. DMT
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adeptus
Sep 19, 2008, 7:10 AM
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irregularpanda
Sep 19, 2008, 8:14 AM
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adeptus wrote: I live in Denmark, one of the flattest countries on earth. I'm sorry to hear that. Ever heard of (whispers)the diamond? Tis a rare and elusive gem in North America.
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adeptus
Sep 19, 2008, 8:51 AM
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irregularpanda
Sep 19, 2008, 11:58 AM
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longs peak, but its usually spoken of with exaggerated reverence, and in a whisper. Try to picture a secret agent whispering in your ear, telling you the combination to the safe that holds the map to "the diamond" shh
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dingus
Sep 19, 2008, 2:25 PM
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adeptus wrote: I was actually hoping that it wouldn’t end in this kindergarten shit as it usually does, but anyway… For the whole you-live-in-the-wrong-place discussion I can add that I live in Denmark, Cool I can answer you and the 14-year old 'alpinist' with the SprayProfileoftheCentury... I don't LIVE in Tennessee (duh!). That's where I'm FROM! Good luck with your list. And steer clear of those snow slogs. DMT
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adeptus
Sep 19, 2008, 3:04 PM
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Valarc
Sep 19, 2008, 3:11 PM
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adeptus wrote: Are you drunk or just naturally an ass? If you think THAT was being an ass, you might want to pull your head out of yours. For fuck's sake, you haven't even had your penis size questioned yet.
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dingus
Sep 19, 2008, 3:16 PM
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I was perfectly nice to you. graniteboy was an ass to me and I responded in kind. That is all. DMT
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adeptus
Sep 19, 2008, 3:39 PM
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Valarc
Sep 19, 2008, 3:43 PM
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Wow, you are a gigantic douchebag. Kind of funny to have you calling everyone sissies when you're crying like a little bitch about some imagined insult you read on the internet. To any and all real alpine climbers out there: please DON'T respond to this thread. You shouldn't be reinforcing the behavior. Give a baby what he wants when he cries, and pretty soon you've got yourself a brat.
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dingus
Sep 19, 2008, 3:46 PM
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adeptus wrote: Jesus Christ! Forget that I asked for route advice in here. I can only imagine what you sissies bitch like on an alpine climb... Do you even have an idea about how much is takes to try one of these routes? (Two dead partners and who knows how many close calls) Let me specify the question: Any recommendations from ALPINE climbers, who actually do REAL alpine climbs? (Posers need not respond) Goddamn for a 26-year old you sure do throw hissy fits like my 11 year old daughter. And wipe your chin son! DMT
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majid_sabet
Sep 19, 2008, 3:58 PM
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adeptus wrote: I have recently been thinking about how I choose my alpine routes and realized that the history, reputation and commitment of the route are the most important factors. I am talking about routes like North Face of the Eiger, Compressor route on Cerro Torre and Cassin Ridge on Denali. The reason I’m asking this is that most of us (who are not professional) only have time for a certain amount of routes in our career, so I would like to pick out THE alpine classics route list with hard, committing but doable routes (no altitude snow slogs and no extreme free climbs). Apart from the mentioned routes these other routes come to mind: -Changabang, North Face, British 1997 route -Fitz Roy, Super Couloir -Cerro Torre, West Face, Ferrai route -Cerro Standhart, Exocet -Mont Blanc, Grand Pilier D’Angel -Matterhorn, North Face -Hunter, Moonflower Buttress -Foraker, Infinite Spur - Ama Dablam, West Face -Cholatse, North Face -Kwangde, North Face -Nameless Tower, (any route) What other routes would qualify for this list? (Please don’t respond if you got nothing serious to contribute) IMO ,Ama Da Blan is the most beautiful looking peak in Himalayas.
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majid_sabet
Sep 19, 2008, 4:01 PM
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well you call me and Dingus gym homos and that was strange. not sure about Dingus but I spend a few night at 20'000 feet looking at Ama Da Blan .
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adeptus
Sep 19, 2008, 4:05 PM
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dingus
Sep 19, 2008, 4:07 PM
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Twight wannabe. You probably listen to Punk too. DMT
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adeptus
Sep 19, 2008, 4:08 PM
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adeptus
Sep 19, 2008, 4:09 PM
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dingus
Sep 19, 2008, 4:19 PM
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Thanks Mark Jr. DMT
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Valarc
Sep 19, 2008, 4:27 PM
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adeptus wrote: I apologize to the rest of you for this, but taking shit from posers like Dingus and Valarc makes me pretty aggro. You are half right there, at least. I am indeed a poseur. I even wear prana sometimes. I also didn't chime in until you started crying like a little bitch with a skinned knee. edit: typos
(This post was edited by Valarc on Sep 19, 2008, 4:28 PM)
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majid_sabet
Sep 19, 2008, 4:39 PM
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adeptus wrote: No majid. Read the post again. I’ve got nothing against you. At least you have been in the mountains unlike the two fags above. Still, I think is improper to judge people you do know and call them gym homos. I never climb with Dingus but I am pretty sure I will rope up with him to climb any peak.
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sungam
Sep 19, 2008, 4:57 PM
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adeptus wrote: Are you drunk or just naturally an ass? I probably don't even need to remind you that you're total jerk, because you must hear that a lot, but thanks, I'll leave the slopes to you. I'm 26, so I've got plenty of time to tick every climb on this list. I don' see anything dingus said was being an ass, graniteboy sure was though. By the way, how big is yer penish?
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sungam
Sep 19, 2008, 4:59 PM
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sungam wrote: adeptus wrote: Are you drunk or just naturally an ass? I probably don't even need to remind you that you're total jerk, because you must hear that a lot, but thanks, I'll leave the slopes to you. I'm 26, so I've got plenty of time to tick every climb on this list. I don' see anything dingus said was being an ass, graniteboy sure was though. By the way, how big is yer penish? You show me your I'll show you mine, Rose. OH YEAH!
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irregularpanda
Sep 19, 2008, 5:13 PM
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sungam wrote: sungam wrote: adeptus wrote: Are you drunk or just naturally an ass? I probably don't even need to remind you that you're total jerk, because you must hear that a lot, but thanks, I'll leave the slopes to you. I'm 26, so I've got plenty of time to tick every climb on this list. I don' see anything dingus said was being an ass, graniteboy sure was though. By the way, how big is yer penish? You show me your I'll show you mine, Rose. OH YEAH! Don't do it, he's crazy he will, I swear. By the way, this post denigrated into a standard pissing contest faster than you can say "you're a terrorist" I should be one to talk, my shit smells like roses, you know. Hey magnus, I found robin williams making fun of the scots last night while I couldn't sleep. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_OmnP527Dw
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sungam
Sep 19, 2008, 5:44 PM
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irregularpanda wrote: I should be one to talk, my shit smells like roses, you know. And I smell damn good. There's only one of me, though.
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sungam
Sep 19, 2008, 5:44 PM
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Seen it before, it's good. :)
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graniteboy
Sep 19, 2008, 10:46 PM
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I'm really, really sorry if I insulted you, Dingus....but I just couldn't help myself. Especially because elsewhere in here on the alpine thread yesterday, I was reading how you gleefully proclaimed your repeated failures on one of the easiest alpine rock routes in the Sierra (Swiss arete) several times, then damn near got lost on the way down once you finally DID get up the goddamned thing, because you were descending the south fork of Big pine creek...as if that were any kind of problem that would even slow down any real alpinist....... Hell, you even thanked me for giving you the beta on that "tough" descent..... Given the fact that I regularly freesolo routes like that car to car in under 12 hrs, have been up denali a few times, including a solo of the west rib, damn near pulleld off a solo of Foraker, have been guiding on ice and snow and rock since 1978, etc etc, I found it sort of odd that you'd be pitting your "knowledge" of alpinism and what makes a classic big alpine route against mine. But hell, my apologies anyway, DMT..... I'll steer clear of any and all threads you may happen to be mangling with your halfassed alpine "knowledge" or "wisdom" from now on, just to avoid getting in your face and making your face turn red with a mixture of anger, insecurity, and embarrassment. And as a consequence, young alpinists in here will not benefit from my 30 some odd years living and climbing and guiing in the sierras. Oh well. I like my mountains empty anyway. Oh, and BTW, another route that oughta be put on the "list" would be that 5.9 route in antarctica that Mugs soloed about a year before his death......don't recall the name, but it was a fine looking line.
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sungam
Sep 19, 2008, 11:20 PM
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Are you slow in the head? Like, really?
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Valarc
Sep 20, 2008, 1:38 AM
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graniteboy wrote: I'm really, really sorry if I insulted you, Dingus....but I just couldn't help myself. Especially because elsewhere in here on the alpine thread yesterday, I was reading how you gleefully proclaimed your repeated failures on one of the easiest alpine rock routes in the Sierra (Swiss arete) several times, then damn near got lost on the way down once you finally DID get up the goddamned thing, because you were descending the south fork of Big pine creek...as if that were any kind of problem that would even slow down any real alpinist....... Hell, you even thanked me for giving you the beta on that "tough" descent..... Given the fact that I regularly freesolo routes like that car to car in under 12 hrs, have been up denali a few times, including a solo of the west rib, damn near pulleld off a solo of Foraker, have been guiding on ice and snow and rock since 1978, etc etc, I found it sort of odd that you'd be pitting your "knowledge" of alpinism and what makes a classic big alpine route against mine. But hell, my apologies anyway, DMT..... I'll steer clear of any and all threads you may happen to be mangling with your halfassed alpine "knowledge" or "wisdom" from now on, just to avoid getting in your face and making your face turn red with a mixture of anger, insecurity, and embarrassment. And as a consequence, young alpinists in here will not benefit from my 30 some odd years living and climbing and guiing in the sierras. Oh well. I like my mountains empty anyway. Oh, and BTW, another route that oughta be put on the "list" would be that 5.9 route in antarctica that Mugs soloed about a year before his death......don't recall the name, but it was a fine looking line. For posterity
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sungam
Sep 20, 2008, 1:41 AM
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I knew he wouldn't delete it.
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adeptus
Sep 20, 2008, 7:19 AM
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sungam
Sep 20, 2008, 9:40 AM
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adeptus wrote: @ graniteboy: Fuck’em, they’re all posers anyway It really disappoint me that the discussion degenerated into childish name calling, but what can you expect when there might only be a handful of serious alpinists using this website that primarily attracts gym and sofa climbers… I'm quite confused. Dingus gave sound advice on the route, saying that there was an epic slow slog/shovel at altitude (you expressed a desire to avoid these) and graniteboy made fun of him for being from tenesee. Seems like someone else degraded the conversation. I simply asked if he was x, or he's acting like x. I never said he was x. Anyways, how could we miss the trango tower area?
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sungam
Sep 20, 2008, 9:47 AM
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graniteboy wrote: NO, I will now resume laughing my ass of at the concept of someone from TENNESEE claiming to know anything at all about alpinism . HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHH!!!!!!!!!! I'm quoting this ^ the first and only really mean, insult thrown in here for the PTFTW (oneoneone)
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adnix
Sep 25, 2008, 4:04 PM
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These have been mentioned so far: Europe: -Mont Blanc, Grand Pilier D’Angle -North Face of the Eiger, -Matterhorn, North Face -Peuterey Integrale -Central Pillar of Freney -Grandes Jorasses NF (Desmaison route or ?) -Troll Wall (winter ascent, too dangerous in summer) South America: -Compressor route on Cerro Torre -Fitz Roy, Super Couloir -Cerro Torre, West Face, Ferrai route -Cerro Standhart, Exocet -there are plenty of other routes in Patagonia, Towers of Paine etc... -Taulliraju: Italian Route -Huascaran Norte: Northeast Ridge -Cayesh: West Face North America: -Cassin Ridge on Denali -Hunter, Moonflower Buttress -Foraker, Infinite Spur -Hunter Southeast Spur (history and difficulty) -Logan - Hummingbird Ridge Himalayas: -Changabang, North Face, British 1997 route -Ama Dablam, West Face -Cholatse, North Face -Kwangde, North Face -Nameless Tower, (any route) -Spantik, Golden Pillar -Latok-1 North ridge
(This post was edited by adnix on Sep 25, 2008, 4:06 PM)
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dingus
Sep 25, 2008, 4:12 PM
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graniteboy wrote: I was reading how you gleefully proclaimed your repeated failures on one of the easiest alpine rock routes in the Sierra (Swiss arete) several times, You're a damned liar.
In reply to: then damn near got lost on the way down once you finally DID get up the goddamned thing, because you were descending the south fork of Big pine creek... Liar again. Show me the quote.
In reply to: Given the fact that I regularly spray spray spray. graniteboy you're a liar and I'll say it to your face. DMT
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sungam
Sep 25, 2008, 4:52 PM
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dingus wrote: graniteboy wrote: I was reading how you gleefully proclaimed your repeated failures on one of the easiest alpine rock routes in the Sierra (Swiss arete) several times, You're a damned liar. In reply to: then damn near got lost on the way down once you finally DID get up the goddamned thing, because you were descending the south fork of Big pine creek... Liar again. Show me the quote. In reply to: Given the fact that I regularly spray spray spray. graniteboy you're a liar and I'll say it to your face. DMT Heh. I'll hold him, you pee on his face?
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adnix
Sep 25, 2008, 7:29 PM
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dingus wrote: graniteboy wrote: I was reading how you gleefully proclaimed your repeated failures on one of the easiest alpine rock routes in the Sierra (Swiss arete) several times, You're a damned liar. He's probably referring to this post: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...post=1970768#1970768
dingus wrote: My 1st attempt on the Swiss Arete was terminated with a bloody nose. True. My good friend Burl and I decided to 'to it in a day' to avoid all that carrying you're asking about. We leat the trailhead in the dark, but we just didn't make the kind of time on that 11 miles to the glacier we should have. On the moraine just below the terminous of the glacier my nose started to bleed. It was noon! We reached the L-Shaped snowfield at 2 PM for christsakes! TWO PEE EM! And my nose was bleeding so badly it wouldn't stop. I had blod clots dripping down my throat. At 13 k very untasty! So we threw in the towel. And... made a fateful decision to descend the SOUTH FORK instead of the NORTH fork. No trail down that way and very demanding. I was a walking deadman by the time we got back to the car. On another trip up the North Fork we went heavy apurpose - going in to do the U Notch in good ice conditions in late Sept. So heavy were our packs it took us TWO DAYS to reach Sam Mack Meadow. We had so much beer with us we couldn't drink it all. So like we didn't succeed on that trip either? Again, we left Sam Mack in the dark. But as I'm sure you can attest its a LONG WAY from Sam Mack to the base of your favorite climb. After leading 2 pitches in the U-Notch, including (for me) a very good lead of the (that year) overhanging schrund, Burl announced he was 'going no higher.' 0 for 2... a heavy trip and a very light trip, two strong FAILS. ARRRGGGGHHHHH!
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dingus
Sep 25, 2008, 7:38 PM
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adnix wrote: dingus wrote: graniteboy wrote: I was reading how you gleefully proclaimed your repeated failures on one of the easiest alpine rock routes in the Sierra (Swiss arete) several times, You're a damned liar. He's probably referring to this post: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...post=1970768#1970768 Undoubtedly. So he either has reading comprehension issues or is a FUCKING LIAR. Based upon his attack upon me for daring to suggest the Hummingbird Ridge was a snow slog (due to a MILE of snow shoveling by the FA team haha)... I realized he's just another Mark Twight wannabe hardman sprayer bullshit lord FUCKING LIAR. How about you? DMT
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tradrenn
Sep 26, 2008, 9:22 AM
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Hey, thanks for the link, I can't sleep tonight so I get to enjoy it. Thanks again.
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tradrenn
Sep 26, 2008, 9:29 AM
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Dude WTF is wrong with you ? Grow a thicker skin. BTW Dingus was nice to you. ( You should have been around when Dr.Kodos or Dirtineye was around ) You know, at least he is the man for admitting that it wasn't the best assent, didn't you ever epic on a route. I dare you to post up !!! Don't even bother answering "No" that only means you never tried hard enough.
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adnix
Sep 26, 2008, 12:10 PM
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Tradrenn, would it be too much to ask you stop posting since it seems you don't have much to add to this subject besides personal attacks?
graniteboy wrote: Has it even had a 3rd ascent yet? I remember that Dave (Nettle) did it awhile back...maybe in the early 90s....and damn near starved to death getting down off the thing. The third ascent of Hummingbird (2nd via the Thunderbird variation) was done in 2001 by two Swiss guys in 26 hours up and two days down! They say the climbing was Himalaya scale with 3600m of height difference. They started light with no sleeping bags or tents and food for five days. On the lower part the Thuderbird couloir has sixty degrees on ice and on the upper part you'll have sections of UIAA 6 on rock. Doesn't sound like a "snow slog" to me (as dingus suggested). Photos here: http://alpen.sac-cas.ch/...04/ad_2001_04_02.pdf
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dingus
Sep 26, 2008, 3:25 PM
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Hey adeptus dude, if you decide to go for Logan I wish you the best of adventures. I mean that. And good luck on the rest of your adventures too. BTW, the story of the FA is well chronicled in Fifty Classic Climbs of N America, written in part by a member of the FA team. I've only done 10 or 12 routes in that book (I'd have to check its been a while)... and Logan has never been on my list. Maybe its the hardest snow slog in N America haha. DMT
(This post was edited by dingus on Sep 26, 2008, 4:00 PM)
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Valarc
Sep 26, 2008, 4:29 PM
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adnix wrote: Tradrenn, would it be too much to ask you stop posting since it seems you don't have much to add to this subject besides personal attacks? Again, Tradrenn didn't make any personal attacks, merely point out that Dingus wasn't being the jerk he was made out to be. What the hell is up with you supposed alpinists acting like such giant vaginas? I thought alpine guys were supposed to be hardmen, but here you all are taking turns getting butthurt in an internet conversation because you don't like someone's tone. I think you all need to get a big bucket of Ben and Jerry's, sit around watching Oprah, and have a good cry. EDIT: Maybe you need to go to the grocery store and buy yourself a bottle of this: EDIT # 2: *I* have nothing to add to this conversation but personal attacks, so cry some more.
(This post was edited by Valarc on Sep 26, 2008, 4:36 PM)
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dingus
Sep 26, 2008, 4:44 PM
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Valarc wrote: adnix wrote: Tradrenn, would it be too much to ask you stop posting since it seems you don't have much to add to this subject besides personal attacks? Again, Tradrenn didn't make any personal attacks, merely point out that Dingus wasn't being the jerk he was made out to be. What the hell is up with you supposed alpinists acting like such giant vaginas?. Twight. They read Twight. DMT
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sungam
Sep 26, 2008, 5:29 PM
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dingus wrote: Valarc wrote: adnix wrote: Tradrenn, would it be too much to ask you stop posting since it seems you don't have much to add to this subject besides personal attacks? Again, Tradrenn didn't make any personal attacks, merely point out that Dingus wasn't being the jerk he was made out to be. What the hell is up with you supposed alpinists acting like such giant vaginas?. Twight. They read Twight. DMT Dingus, we should go fail on some "too easy to be a world classic" route when I hit the USA. Then we should laugh, go home, and drink some scotch, and leave the snow slog for granite boy.
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dingus
Sep 26, 2008, 5:46 PM
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How can a route with 2 or 3 known ascents be a world classic anyway????? DMT
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skiclimb
Sep 26, 2008, 9:59 PM
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dingus wrote: How can a route with 2 or 3 known ascents be a world classic anyway????? DMT Dunno but there is Latok North ridge with NO ascents and I think it's a fantastic prize for someone out there.
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adnix
Sep 27, 2008, 7:25 AM
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dingus wrote: Twight. They read Twight. I read Al Alvarez, Henry Barber, Walter Bonatti, Joe Brown, Yvon Chouinard, Gregory Crouch, Rene Desmaison, Anderl Heckmaier, Alan Kearney, Erhard Loretan, Tom Patey, Gaston Rebuffat, Robin Smith and Simon Yates. I've browsed throught the Twight book, too, but never read it. Some more routes: -Ogre, South Pillar -Uli Biaho Tower, East Face
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adnix
Sep 28, 2008, 10:51 AM
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Europe: -Mont Blanc, Grand Pilier D’Angle -North Face of the Eiger, -Matterhorn, North Face -Peuterey Integrale -Central Pillar of Freney -Grandes Jorasses NF (Desmaison route or ?) -Troll Wall (winter ascent, too dangerous in summer) Patagonia: -Poincenot, Whillans route -Mermoz, Red Pillar -Fitz Roy, Franco Argentine -Fitz Roy, Super Couloir -Fitz Roy, Casarotto Pillar -Fitz Roy, Royal Flush -Cerro Torre, Compressor route -Cerro Torre, West Face, Ferrari route -Torre Egger, Titanic -Cerro Standhart, Exocet -Central Tower of Paine: Bonington Whillans -Central Tower of Paine: Riders on the Storm -South Tower: North Ridge -North Tower: Monzino Route Peru: -Taulliraju: Italian Route -Huascaran Norte: Northeast Ridge -Cayesh: West Face North America: -Cassin Ridge on Denali -Hunter, Moonflower Buttress -Foraker, Infinite Spur -Hunter, Southeast Spur (history and difficulty) -Logan, Hummingbird Ridge -Barrill: Cobra Pillar Kichatna Spires ? Himalayas: -Changabang, North Face, British 1997 route -Ama Dablam, West Face -Cholatse, North Face -Kwangde, North Face -Nameless Tower, (any route) -Spantik, Golden Pillar -Latok-1 North ridge
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sungam
Sep 28, 2008, 3:05 PM
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You ignored my comments on Antarctica? Lame. that place is fucking truck. No where I'd rather go.
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adnix
Sep 29, 2008, 4:34 AM
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sungam wrote: You ignored my comments on Antarctica? Lame. that place is fucking truck. No where I'd rather go. The list is still missing Greenland and Antarctica (at least). Can someone give specific info?
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qwert
Sep 29, 2008, 9:40 AM
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adnix wrote: sungam wrote: You ignored my comments on Antarctica? Lame. that place is fucking truck. No where I'd rather go. The list is still missing Greenland and Antarctica (at least). Can someone give specific info? They are cold places, on is at the top of the globe, one at the bottom. When it is dark at the one side, it is light at the other On a serious note: There is not much stuff in Antarctica, mostly because it is very very expensive to get there, and there is virtually no infrastructure available. also i would guess a lot of very nice mountains there have simply never been seen by any human. The french magzine vertical (also available in english or german) had a story about antarctica, but i dont have it here, and the website sucks, but the images from the wall where fantastic. Even if you do "easy" stuff, antartica is very serious, simply because of the fact that if anything happens to you, you cant get help, and the next humans are most likely a few thousand kilometers away. But the bragging factor is of course imense! Greenland has much more information available, and it seems like it (or at least the south) has become somewhat of a mainstream destination. given the fact that the OP is danish, this should be one of the primary goals. And since where talking artic now, how about spitsbergen / svalbard ? Not much routes, but the location of the islands themselves will get you a lot of atention. http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews.lasso?l=2&keyid=35654 http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews.lasso?l=2&keyid=35762 Apart from the fact that it can get really cold here, you also have to take polar bears into the equation, but if youre fit enough for such a trip, i would guess its worth it. Havent been to Atomfjella (yet, i hope?), but the areas "close" to it. Its really an amazing island. qwert
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wallwombat
Sep 29, 2008, 11:53 AM
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The West Face of Gasherbrum IV.
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sungam
Sep 29, 2008, 12:45 PM
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adnix wrote: sungam wrote: You ignored my comments on Antarctica? Lame. that place is fucking truck. No where I'd rather go. The list is still missing Greenland and Antarctica (at least). Can someone give specific info? I know I saw photos of a simply amazing looking route called there's a moose loose aboot this hoose perfect clean granite in a committing and extreme environment.
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sungam
Sep 30, 2008, 4:10 AM
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It sounds intense for sure. Couldn't download those PDFs quite yet, gotta finish some stuff off first.
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quiteatingmysteak
Sep 30, 2008, 4:45 AM
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A good buddy of mine did a first ascent on AP4 thats unreapeted (american Ridge) twenty something years ago. Pretty sure the homo is the one spraying about his 451st ascent of the Cassin.
(This post was edited by quiteatingmysteak on Sep 30, 2008, 4:45 AM)
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adnix
Oct 7, 2008, 7:52 PM
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Ulvetanna looks like this: And Rondespire looks like this: There are two books by the Norwegians, called Antarctica - The Ronde Spire (1997) and Queen Maud Land - Antarctica (1994). I just recieved the books and they are both stunning! More pics of Ulvetanna can also be found on the site of Norwegian expedition http://mail.fredensborg.no/ulvetanna06/bilder.aspx
(This post was edited by adnix on Oct 7, 2008, 8:05 PM)
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sungam
Oct 7, 2008, 8:17 PM
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*DRROOOOOOOOOL* That looks fantastic!
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Factor2
Oct 7, 2008, 9:08 PM
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adnix wrote: They say the climbing was Himalaya scale with 3600m of height difference. They started light with no sleeping bags or tents and food for five days. On the lower part the Thuderbird couloir has sixty degrees on ice and on the upper part you'll have sections of UIAA 6 on rock. Doesn't sound like a "snow slog" to me (as dingus suggested). Does nobody read what Dingus is saying? I might be wrong too, but I thought dingus said that there was a mile of snow shoveling. He didn't imply the entire route was snow shoveling, but that there was still a MILE of it
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gargrantuan
Oct 8, 2008, 7:35 PM
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the fact that only two climbs in the canadian rockies have been mentioned but not added to the list proves that you're all huge retards.
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dingus
Oct 8, 2008, 7:46 PM
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Factor2 wrote: adnix wrote: They say the climbing was Himalaya scale with 3600m of height difference. They started light with no sleeping bags or tents and food for five days. On the lower part the Thuderbird couloir has sixty degrees on ice and on the upper part you'll have sections of UIAA 6 on rock. Doesn't sound like a "snow slog" to me (as dingus suggested). Does nobody read what Dingus is saying? I might be wrong too, but I thought dingus said that there was a mile of snow shoveling. He didn't imply the entire route was snow shoveling, but that there was still a MILE of it It was all tongue in cheek but the Wannabe Twight Hardboyz NEVER GOT IT. Ever. They were were too busy practicing scowls in the mirror and spitting out the word 'poser' ad naseum. Pitiful really. But yeah, the FA team did a lot of snow shoveling. DMT
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adnix
Oct 10, 2008, 4:10 AM
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Europe: -Mont Blanc, Grand Pilier D’Angle -North Face of the Eiger, -Matterhorn, North Face -Peuterey Integrale -Central Pillar of Freney -Grandes Jorasses NF (Desmaison route or ?) -Troll Wall (winter ascent, too dangerous in summer) Patagonia: -Poincenot, Whillans route -Mermoz, Red Pillar -Fitz Roy, Franco Argentine -Fitz Roy, Super Couloir -Fitz Roy, Casarotto Pillar -Fitz Roy, Royal Flush -Cerro Torre, Compressor route -Cerro Torre, West Face, Ferrari route -Torre Egger, Titanic -Cerro Standhart, Exocet -Central Tower of Paine: Bonington Whillans -Central Tower of Paine: Riders on the Storm -South Tower: North Ridge -North Tower: Monzino Route Peru: -Taulliraju: Italian Route -Huascaran Norte: Northeast Ridge -Cayesh: West Face North America: -Cassin Ridge on Denali -Hunter, Moonflower Buttress -Foraker, Infinite Spur -Hunter, Southeast Spur (history and difficulty) -Logan, Hummingbird Ridge -Barrill: Cobra Pillar Kichatna Spires ? -Alberta, North Face -Robson, Emperor Face -Howse Peak, North East Butress Himalayas: -Changabang, North Face, British 1997 route -Ama Dablam, West Face -Cholatse, North Face -Kwangde, North Face -Nameless Tower, (any route) -Spantik, Golden Pillar -Latok-1 North ridge
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brent_e
Oct 12, 2008, 6:08 PM
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adeptus wrote: I was actually hoping that it wouldn’t end in this kindergarten shit as it usually does, but anyway… For the whole you-live-in-the-wrong-place discussion I can add that I live in Denmark, one of the flattest countries on earth. But that should not kill anyone’s dream. If you got the right attitude and are willing to travel a lot there’s no problem. I will try three of the routes on the original list next year (Matterhorn, Ama Dablam and Cholatse) and post trip reports here. Until then keep the routes coming. I’m interested in hearing about quality routes in Peru (ice, mixed or alpine big wall). Cheers! One more for the list: -Siula Grande touching the void or avoiding the touch???
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