|
porkchop_express
Oct 11, 2008, 9:02 AM
Post #1 of 60
(12620 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 18, 2006
Posts: 62
|
i have a question about this route/problem... i saw a video of chris webb climbing it on youtube and the poster rated it v16...is that legit? I mean is it a consensus 16? I cant even climb near that grade but i figure that I would have heard about it if it were a 16... just wondering. Thanks.
(This post was edited by porkchop_express on Oct 11, 2008, 9:06 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Oct 11, 2008, 10:03 AM
Post #2 of 60
(12611 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
yes.
|
|
|
|
|
hopperhopper
Oct 11, 2008, 1:34 PM
Post #3 of 60
(12589 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 29, 2007
Posts: 475
|
Until Graham confirms it I'm not flipping out over the first v16 just yet. He tends to downgrade stuff, and has climbed enough 14s and 15s to know. Same goes for Sharma.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Oct 11, 2008, 1:36 PM
Post #4 of 60
(12588 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
Same goes for Dai.
|
|
|
|
|
pr0x1mo
Oct 11, 2008, 1:49 PM
Post #5 of 60
(12584 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 25, 2005
Posts: 118
|
In all honesty, witeness the fitness looks harder, the holds are much crappier, so if wheel of life is a 16, witness the fitness (WTF) is....
|
|
|
|
|
Valarc
Oct 11, 2008, 1:58 PM
Post #6 of 60
(12581 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 20, 2007
Posts: 1473
|
pr0x1mo wrote: In all honesty, witeness the fitness looks harder, Hahahahahahahahahah hahahaha ahaha ha ha ... ... ha Give me a fucking break, like you can tell from a video of a climb you couldn't climb if you superglued your hands to the holds. You people crack me up sometimes.
|
|
|
|
|
ja1484
Oct 11, 2008, 3:01 PM
Post #7 of 60
(12538 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 11, 2006
Posts: 1935
|
Valarc wrote: pr0x1mo wrote: In all honesty, witeness the fitness looks harder, Hahahahahahahahahah hahahaha ahaha ha ha ... ... ha Give me a fucking break, like you can tell from a video of a climb you couldn't climb if you superglued your hands to the holds. You people crack me up sometimes. This man is the right one. I'll certainly listen to Sharma/Graham/Nicole's opinions, but let's not pretend we get to have thoughts about whether Dai Koyamada's supposed "soft" grading is actually true or not. All of these guys are climbing at a level well beyond the ability of rc.n00bers to conceptualize. It's like non-physicists trying to discuss nuances of string theory...it just comes off as silly posturing, which is pretty much accurate.
|
|
|
|
|
duncanlennon
Oct 11, 2008, 3:42 PM
Post #8 of 60
(12519 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 6, 2006
Posts: 109
|
I read an article about this and apparently, Wheel of Life links a bunch of V12s together. Thus, the whole thing, while very difficult, doesn't have an individual move harder than V12. Some have suggested it should have a route grade. Not that it matters, it's still impressive.
|
|
|
|
|
pr0x1mo
Oct 13, 2008, 2:06 PM
Post #9 of 60
(12440 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 25, 2005
Posts: 118
|
Valarc wrote: pr0x1mo wrote: In all honesty, witeness the fitness looks harder, Hahahahahahahahahah hahahaha ahaha ha ha ... ... ha Give me a fucking break, like you can tell from a video of a climb you couldn't climb if you superglued your hands to the holds. You people crack me up sometimes. you couldn't flash a route with a fucking camera you n00b. step down or get chin checked with a fucking wrecking ball you manpri pink chalk bag faggot chausser, HOLLAH
|
|
|
|
|
Valarc
Oct 13, 2008, 2:08 PM
Post #10 of 60
(12438 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 20, 2007
Posts: 1473
|
pr0x1mo wrote: you couldn't flash a route with a fucking camera you n00b. step down or get chin checked with a fucking wrecking ball you manpri pink chalk bag faggot chausser, HOLLAH preserved for posterity. Nothing I could say in response could possibly make you look like any more of a tool than you have managed yourself.
|
|
|
|
|
pr0x1mo
Oct 13, 2008, 2:30 PM
Post #11 of 60
(12423 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 25, 2005
Posts: 118
|
Valarc wrote: pr0x1mo wrote: you couldn't flash a route with a fucking camera you n00b. step down or get chin checked with a fucking wrecking ball you manpri pink chalk bag faggot chausser, HOLLAH preserved for posterity. Nothing I could say in response could possibly make you look like any more of a tool than you have managed yourself. Preserved for posterity? I responded to this thread days later and your internet geek ass was on scrutinizing every thread in hopes to have someone to expatiate with you lexicon abusing slut bag. Brought to you in part by www.dictionary.com
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Oct 13, 2008, 2:51 PM
Post #13 of 60
(12403 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
pr0x1mo wrote: Valarc wrote: pr0x1mo wrote: you couldn't flash a route with a fucking camera you n00b. step down or get chin checked with a fucking wrecking ball you manpri pink chalk bag faggot chausser, HOLLAH preserved for posterity. Nothing I could say in response could possibly make you look like any more of a tool than you have managed yourself. Preserved for posterity? I responded to this thread days later and your internet geek ass was on scrutinizing every thread in hopes to have someone to expatiate with you lexicon abusing slut bag. Brought to you in part by www.dictionary.com Quoted for posterity. oh, I almost forgot... You, sir, are a moron.
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Oct 13, 2008, 3:30 PM
Post #14 of 60
(12380 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
duncanlennon wrote: I read an article about this and apparently, Wheel of Life links a bunch of V12s together. Thus, the whole thing, while very difficult, doesn't have an individual move harder than V12. Some have suggested it should have a route grade. Not that it matters, it's still impressive. well, on the surface your post seems very moronic. How many 5.13s or 5.14s do you think have a "move" of .13 or .14 (roughly v8-v10)? I have heard several times that "To Be or Not to Bolt" does not have a move harder than v3. You would have to be a 5.14 climber to be able to do 60+ moves of solid v3, though. However, you are touching upon the fact that endurance, not individual hard moves, can be just as relevant in boulder problems as to routes. Originally, the YDS was supposed to just grade the hardest single move. This would tell you little about a route at the RRG, or Indian Creek, or Maple Canyon, or about Witness the Fitness, or Wheel of Life. The French get around this by assigned a separate "traverse" grade to longer problems that factors in endurance rather than just hard moves; Wheel of Life AND Witness the Fitness could both benefit from this.
|
|
|
|
|
pr0x1mo
Oct 13, 2008, 3:36 PM
Post #15 of 60
(12370 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 25, 2005
Posts: 118
|
sungam wrote: pr0x1mo wrote: Valarc wrote: pr0x1mo wrote: you couldn't flash a route with a fucking camera you n00b. step down or get chin checked with a fucking wrecking ball you manpri pink chalk bag faggot chausser, HOLLAH preserved for posterity. Nothing I could say in response could possibly make you look like any more of a tool than you have managed yourself. Preserved for posterity? I responded to this thread days later and your internet geek ass was on scrutinizing every thread in hopes to have someone to expatiate with you lexicon abusing slut bag. Brought to you in part by www.dictionary.com Quoted for posterity. oh, I almost forgot... You, sir, are a moron. Well i didn't almost forget nothing, you're a bitch, whodie!
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Oct 13, 2008, 3:42 PM
Post #16 of 60
(12364 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
pr0x1mo wrote: sungam wrote: pr0x1mo wrote: Valarc wrote: pr0x1mo wrote: you couldn't flash a route with a fucking camera you n00b. step down or get chin checked with a fucking wrecking ball you manpri pink chalk bag faggot chausser, HOLLAH preserved for posterity. Nothing I could say in response could possibly make you look like any more of a tool than you have managed yourself. Preserved for posterity? I responded to this thread days later and your internet geek ass was on scrutinizing every thread in hopes to have someone to expatiate with you lexicon abusing slut bag. Brought to you in part by www.dictionary.com Quoted for posterity. oh, I almost forgot... You, sir, are a moron. Well i didn't almost forget nothing, you're a bitch, whodie! "I almost didn't forget nothing"
|
|
|
|
|
Valarc
Oct 13, 2008, 4:56 PM
Post #17 of 60
(12302 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 20, 2007
Posts: 1473
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jamis21
Oct 13, 2008, 7:06 PM
Post #19 of 60
(12226 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2007
Posts: 26
|
Oddly enough, that's the same drug induced conversation that gave Metallica it's start.
(This post was edited by Jamis21 on Oct 13, 2008, 7:07 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
pr0x1mo
Oct 13, 2008, 7:09 PM
Post #20 of 60
(12222 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 25, 2005
Posts: 118
|
sungam wrote: pr0x1mo wrote: sungam wrote: pr0x1mo wrote: Valarc wrote: pr0x1mo wrote: you couldn't flash a route with a fucking camera you n00b. step down or get chin checked with a fucking wrecking ball you manpri pink chalk bag faggot chausser, HOLLAH preserved for posterity. Nothing I could say in response could possibly make you look like any more of a tool than you have managed yourself. Preserved for posterity? I responded to this thread days later and your internet geek ass was on scrutinizing every thread in hopes to have someone to expatiate with you lexicon abusing slut bag. Brought to you in part by www.dictionary.com Quoted for posterity. oh, I almost forgot... You, sir, are a moron. Well i didn't almost forget nothing, you're a bitch, whodie! "I almost didn't forget nothing" only crakkka nerds try to correct grammar on the internet
|
|
|
|
|
a-e-jones
Oct 18, 2008, 5:28 PM
Post #21 of 60
(12106 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 5, 2008
Posts: 295
|
pr0x1mo wrote: sungam wrote: pr0x1mo wrote: sungam wrote: pr0x1mo wrote: Valarc wrote: pr0x1mo wrote: you couldn't flash a route with a fucking camera you n00b. step down or get chin checked with a fucking wrecking ball you manpri pink chalk bag faggot chausser, HOLLAH preserved for posterity. Nothing I could say in response could possibly make you look like any more of a tool than you have managed yourself. Preserved for posterity? I responded to this thread days later and your internet geek ass was on scrutinizing every thread in hopes to have someone to expatiate with you lexicon abusing slut bag. Brought to you in part by www.dictionary.com Quoted for posterity. oh, I almost forgot... You, sir, are a moron. Well i didn't almost forget nothing, you're a bitch, whodie! "I almost didn't forget nothing" only crakkka nerds try to correct grammar on the internet wow..........just wow
|
|
|
|
|
gt29905
Oct 18, 2008, 5:57 PM
Post #22 of 60
(12094 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2005
Posts: 167
|
Valarc wrote: pr0x1mo wrote: you couldn't flash a route with a fucking camera you n00b. step down or get chin checked with a fucking wrecking ball you manpri pink chalk bag faggot chausser, HOLLAH preserved for posterity. Nothing I could say in response could possibly make you look like any more of a tool than you have managed yourself. Too true If pr0x1mo is a troll he's really F'ing funny. Maybe SUBTLE is bored and up to no good.
(This post was edited by gt29905 on Oct 18, 2008, 6:02 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Oct 18, 2008, 6:02 PM
Post #23 of 60
(12088 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
He reminds me of protoslay. Man I miss that kid, it was so fun to let him rip himself apart.
|
|
|
|
|
a-e-jones
Oct 18, 2008, 7:16 PM
Post #24 of 60
(12060 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 5, 2008
Posts: 295
|
hes gotta be someones alter ego like aceto!
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Oct 18, 2008, 7:43 PM
Post #25 of 60
(12046 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
Please, never relate this moron to Aceto the unfearing ever again.
|
|
|
|
|
irregularpanda
Oct 18, 2008, 8:29 PM
Post #26 of 60
(5740 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 13, 2007
Posts: 1364
|
sungam wrote: Please, never relate this moron to Aceto the unfearing ever again. right, like that time aceto went top roping and fell. Damn that was...........epic?
|
|
|
|
|
hosh
Oct 18, 2008, 8:45 PM
Post #27 of 60
(5735 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2003
Posts: 1662
|
This thread isn't complete until someone calls someone else a douch bag. So, for completion's sake, "All you alls is douch bags!" *note the accuracy of the grammar here. there. Now this thread is complete. Carry on ladies and gentlemen. hosh.
|
|
|
|
|
wzrdgandalf
Oct 18, 2008, 10:03 PM
Post #28 of 60
(5719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 261
|
i have to agree with proximo that only crakkka nerds try to correct grammar on the internet. Unfortunately it is not SUBTLE making a come back, proximo is the real deal. A gangsta ass baller that tells the truth at all times. Beware he can rain down the crunkness on anyone at anytime at RC.com.
|
|
|
|
|
irregularpanda
Oct 18, 2008, 11:09 PM
Post #29 of 60
(5710 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 13, 2007
Posts: 1364
|
wzrdgandalf wrote: i have to agree with proximo that only crakkka nerds try to correct grammar on the internet. Unfortunately it is not SUBTLE making a come back, proximo is the real deal. A gangsta ass baller that tells the truth at all times. Beware he can rain down the crunkness on anyone at anytime at RC.com. And you are riding his nuts, jocking his jock, fondling his tool. Kudos to you, tool.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Oct 18, 2008, 11:54 PM
Post #30 of 60
(5701 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
irregularpanda wrote: sungam wrote: Please, never relate this moron to Aceto the unfearing ever again. right, like that time aceto went top roping and fell. Damn that was...........epic? You've clearly never TR'd at the black.
|
|
|
|
|
wzrdgandalf
Oct 20, 2008, 3:54 AM
Post #31 of 60
(5658 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 261
|
irregularpanda wrote: wzrdgandalf wrote: i have to agree with proximo that only crakkka nerds try to correct grammar on the internet. Unfortunately it is not SUBTLE making a come back, proximo is the real deal. A gangsta ass baller that tells the truth at all times. Beware he can rain down the crunkness on anyone at anytime at RC.com. And you are riding his nuts, jocking his jock, fondling his tool. Kudos to you, tool. In these confusing times I realize it has become harder and harder to discern facetious rhetoric, but I have to admit... If you can't see the sarcasm in me proclaiming that "only crakkka nerds try to correct grammar on the internet", then i have three theories which could explain your hostility. 1) You were too stoned to realize your error in judgment before you decided to write such an eloquent retort. 2) You are obtuse. ... and/or... 3)You are the type of person who believes that by using middle school terms describing gay sex and an insult, you can come out the victor of an "E-Dick Measuring" contest that I was not aware of. If #1 is correct then I apologize for the harsh response and I will be smoking one for you tonight. If #2 is correct, you are obtuse. Enough said. If #3 is correct, realize that the forums are a good place to come and bounce ideas off of eachother and gain knowledge about our common hobby/lifestyle. Ocassionaly a troll comes along and stirs some shit up but there is no reason to make things personal. Chill out and maybe consider theory number one. Anyway I figure I should at least provide another typical RC.com answer to this topic. Crap what was the question again? Oh yeah... ever heard of the search function noob!!!!????
|
|
|
|
|
Lazlo
Oct 20, 2008, 4:04 AM
Post #32 of 60
(5653 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2007
Posts: 5079
|
I read the thread...start to finish...forgot what the purpose of the thread was...asked my self what it's purpose was...and couldn't answer myself. I then looked at the subject...and everything was fine again. All was made clear. Welcome to RC.com.
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Oct 20, 2008, 4:44 AM
Post #33 of 60
(5639 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
wzrdgandalf wrote: you can come out the victor of an "E-Dick Measuring" contest that I was not aware of Which is funny, because google allows you to find an e-dick of any size you might want. My e-dick is at least 3 internets long.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Oct 20, 2008, 6:40 PM
Post #34 of 60
(5609 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
petsfed wrote: My e-dick is at least 3 internets long. I've said it before and I'll say it again: that is bad-ass.
|
|
|
|
|
pr0x1mo
Oct 20, 2008, 9:00 PM
Post #35 of 60
(5568 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 25, 2005
Posts: 118
|
This is what i think about this thread: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ll5Pp41PRAw u nonh4x0r n00bz keep talkin non 733t speek, Prox: So gansta my street credit got 0 percent interest til 2015
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Oct 20, 2008, 10:15 PM
Post #36 of 60
(5561 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
Valarc wrote: pr0x1mo wrote: you couldn't flash a route with a fucking camera you n00b. step down or get chin checked with a fucking wrecking ball you manpri pink chalk bag faggot chausser, HOLLAH preserved for posterity. Nothing I could say in response could possibly make you look like any more of a tool than you have managed yourself. Just to keep these together...
pr0x1mo wrote: This is what i think about this thread: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ll5Pp41PRAw u nonh4x0r n00bz keep talkin non 733t speek, Prox: So gansta my street credit got 0 percent interest til 2015
|
|
|
|
|
tarsier
Oct 20, 2008, 10:27 PM
Post #37 of 60
(5559 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2003
Posts: 127
|
I've never had sex, but I've heard that it smells.
|
|
|
|
|
Factor2
Oct 20, 2008, 11:18 PM
Post #38 of 60
(5547 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 17, 2008
Posts: 188
|
might as well clickify it
|
|
|
|
|
EPiCJAMES
Oct 21, 2008, 1:45 AM
Post #39 of 60
(5529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 8, 2007
Posts: 391
|
camhead wrote: duncanlennon wrote: I read an article about this and apparently, Wheel of Life links a bunch of V12s together. Thus, the whole thing, while very difficult, doesn't have an individual move harder than V12. Some have suggested it should have a route grade. Not that it matters, it's still impressive. well, on the surface your post seems very moronic. How many 5.13s or 5.14s do you think have a "move" of .13 or .14 (roughly v8-v10)? I have heard several times that "To Be or Not to Bolt" does not have a move harder than v3. You would have to be a 5.14 climber to be able to do 60+ moves of solid v3, though. However, you are touching upon the fact that endurance, not individual hard moves, can be just as relevant in boulder problems as to routes. Originally, the YDS was supposed to just grade the hardest single move. This would tell you little about a route at the RRG, or Indian Creek, or Maple Canyon, or about Witness the Fitness, or Wheel of Life. The French get around this by assigned a separate "traverse" grade to longer problems that factors in endurance rather than just hard moves; Wheel of Life AND Witness the Fitness could both benefit from this. camhead is right. i actually had the chance to hang out with dave graham, and he told me about problems that had say the first 3 moves were V4 and the last 10+ moves were V8 and it's a V9. a lot more goes in to grading these problems than i had thought prior to that conversation.
|
|
|
|
|
pr0x1mo
Oct 21, 2008, 2:14 AM
Post #40 of 60
(5510 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 25, 2005
Posts: 118
|
Factor2 wrote: might as well clickify it So what you think about it, slut? www.myspace.com/internetthugcc
|
|
|
|
|
Feller
Oct 21, 2008, 3:43 PM
Post #41 of 60
(5483 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 28, 2008
Posts: 148
|
petsfed wrote: Which is funny, because google allows you to find an e-dick of any size you might want. My e-dick is at least 3 internets long. I LoLed at this. also, pr0x1mo, you're one goofy guy.....I almost feel bad for ya man, all these internet crazies making fun of your grammar....how dare they expect you to criticize other people using proper engrish. and...finally ON topic... I saw this video about a month ago on StumbleUpon (which btw, is an addon to firefox everyone here should have...you can make a stumble filter for climbing videos and BAM...countless hours of completly random videos of people rock climbing....most are pretty good, some are shitty, but its the nature of the beast)...whoa...I have ADD today I guess.....anyways....upon watching it, I had the same thought a lot of you did, that this problem looks hard, no doubt. WAY hard, and definitely more than I can handle, but in comparison to other things I've seen, it doesn't look like the hardest. I'd say v16 is a VERY liberal rating, then again, I'm not a professional-route-rater-dude...so....guess it's just my looking vicariously in on the world's best.
|
|
|
|
|
pr0x1mo
Oct 21, 2008, 5:25 PM
Post #42 of 60
(5472 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 25, 2005
Posts: 118
|
dey kant keep up wit da gawd, nahmean?
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Oct 21, 2008, 5:48 PM
Post #43 of 60
(5461 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
pr0x1mo wrote: Factor2 wrote: might as well clickify it So what you think about it, slut? www.myspace.com/internetthugcc pr0x1mo wrote: dey kant keep up wit da gawd, nahmean? This is solid gold! Keep it coming!
|
|
|
|
|
pr0x1mo
Oct 22, 2008, 6:44 PM
Post #44 of 60
(5405 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 25, 2005
Posts: 118
|
come to miami for some real climbing you fucking posers *SPITS HARD* shits real in da field out here, i dun seen mass fuckin murders, superlative mayhem, stomping blitzkrieg insurgencies out here in 8th street coral boulders. They captured Alian Gonzalez for flashing a v13 out in key west. Miami is the real.
|
|
|
|
|
wzrdgandalf
Oct 24, 2008, 7:38 PM
Post #45 of 60
(5354 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 261
|
EPiCJAMES wrote: camhead wrote: duncanlennon wrote: I read an article about this and apparently, Wheel of Life links a bunch of V12s together. Thus, the whole thing, while very difficult, doesn't have an individual move harder than V12. Some have suggested it should have a route grade. Not that it matters, it's still impressive. well, on the surface your post seems very moronic. How many 5.13s or 5.14s do you think have a "move" of .13 or .14 (roughly v8-v10)? I have heard several times that "To Be or Not to Bolt" does not have a move harder than v3. You would have to be a 5.14 climber to be able to do 60+ moves of solid v3, though. However, you are touching upon the fact that endurance, not individual hard moves, can be just as relevant in boulder problems as to routes. Originally, the YDS was supposed to just grade the hardest single move. This would tell you little about a route at the RRG, or Indian Creek, or Maple Canyon, or about Witness the Fitness, or Wheel of Life. The French get around this by assigned a separate "traverse" grade to longer problems that factors in endurance rather than just hard moves; Wheel of Life AND Witness the Fitness could both benefit from this. camhead is right. i actually had the chance to hang out with dave graham, and he told me about problems that had say the first 3 moves were V4 and the last 10+ moves were V8 and it's a V9. a lot more goes in to grading these problems than i had thought prior to that conversation. I believe that wheel of life was a link up of multiple v10+ problems. When you start getting to that level, most pro climbers can climb v10 all day and not break a sweat, but if you put a v11 and a v12 together then not only are you testing their ability to do the insanely hard move which is the crux, but you are also testing thier ability to do multiple cruxes back to back. For most boulderers, a burst of power is the name of the game. Wheel of life tests the power endurance ability of a climber. V grade or 5. grade doesnt really matter in this case. I do however wonder what Dai Koyamada would put as a route grade for this problem. 15a? above it or below it?
|
|
|
|
|
knieveltech
Oct 24, 2008, 7:51 PM
Post #46 of 60
(5346 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 2, 2006
Posts: 1431
|
gt29905 wrote: Valarc wrote: pr0x1mo wrote: you couldn't flash a route with a fucking camera you n00b. step down or get chin checked with a fucking wrecking ball you manpri pink chalk bag faggot chausser, HOLLAH preserved for posterity. Nothing I could say in response could possibly make you look like any more of a tool than you have managed yourself. Too true If pr0x1mo is a troll he's really F'ing funny. Maybe SUBTLE is bored and up to no good. No way. Subtle's style is way more...well...subtle. Pr0x1mo is more like Bad Santa without the txt nonsense.
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Oct 24, 2008, 7:55 PM
Post #47 of 60
(5345 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
wzrdgandalf wrote: EPiCJAMES wrote: camhead wrote: duncanlennon wrote: I read an article about this and apparently, Wheel of Life links a bunch of V12s together. Thus, the whole thing, while very difficult, doesn't have an individual move harder than V12. Some have suggested it should have a route grade. Not that it matters, it's still impressive. well, on the surface your post seems very moronic. How many 5.13s or 5.14s do you think have a "move" of .13 or .14 (roughly v8-v10)? I have heard several times that "To Be or Not to Bolt" does not have a move harder than v3. You would have to be a 5.14 climber to be able to do 60+ moves of solid v3, though. However, you are touching upon the fact that endurance, not individual hard moves, can be just as relevant in boulder problems as to routes. Originally, the YDS was supposed to just grade the hardest single move. This would tell you little about a route at the RRG, or Indian Creek, or Maple Canyon, or about Witness the Fitness, or Wheel of Life. The French get around this by assigned a separate "traverse" grade to longer problems that factors in endurance rather than just hard moves; Wheel of Life AND Witness the Fitness could both benefit from this. camhead is right. i actually had the chance to hang out with dave graham, and he told me about problems that had say the first 3 moves were V4 and the last 10+ moves were V8 and it's a V9. a lot more goes in to grading these problems than i had thought prior to that conversation. I believe that wheel of life was a link up of multiple v10+ problems. When you start getting to that level, most pro climbers can climb v10 all day and not break a sweat, but if you put a v11 and a v12 together then not only are you testing their ability to do the insanely hard move which is the crux, but you are also testing thier ability to do multiple cruxes back to back... Right. Which is why very long problems like this do not fit the traditional definition of bouldering--and should really be graded using the YDS or Font traverse grading systems, instead of the "V" scale. Curt
|
|
|
|
|
wzrdgandalf
Oct 24, 2008, 8:12 PM
Post #48 of 60
(5335 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 261
|
I looked around a bit and didnt find much with the search on the Font Traverse Grading. Anyone care to take a go at explaining it? Thank you in advance.
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Oct 24, 2008, 9:11 PM
Post #49 of 60
(5309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
wzrdgandalf wrote: I looked around a bit and didnt find much with the search on the Font Traverse Grading. Anyone care to take a go at explaining it? Thank you in advance. I believe the Font traverse grades are merely the same as those used for French sport climbing routes--but I would like to see if someone else can confirm this. Curt
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Oct 24, 2008, 10:39 PM
Post #50 of 60
(5299 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
Font and French or most certainly different. French is for grading sport routes and is used from 4 to 9b (note the lower case), whereas Font is used for boulder problems (not just traverses any more, in fact french grades are usually used for long traverses) and go from 4 to 8C+. http://www.rockfax.com/...cations/bgrades.html
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Oct 25, 2008, 3:05 AM
Post #51 of 60
(3563 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
sungam wrote: Font and French or most certainly different. French is for grading sport routes and is used from 4 to 9b (note the lower case), whereas Font is used for boulder problems (not just traverses any more, in fact french grades are usually used for long traverses) and go from 4 to 8C+. http://www.rockfax.com/...cations/bgrades.html Thanks for the link. I believe it confirms what I suspected--as it indicates that French route grades and traverse grades are the same. Curt
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Oct 25, 2008, 4:12 AM
Post #52 of 60
(3553 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
curt wrote: sungam wrote: Font and French or most certainly different. French is for grading sport routes and is used from 4 to 9b (note the lower case), whereas Font is used for boulder problems (not just traverses any more, in fact french grades are usually used for long traverses) and go from 4 to 8C+. http://www.rockfax.com/...cations/bgrades.html Thanks for the link. I believe it confirms what I suspected--as it indicates that French route grades and traverse grades are the same. Curt Sorry, the confusion came from the Font/French thing.
|
|
|
|
|
PatMcGinn
Nov 1, 2008, 10:36 PM
Post #53 of 60
(3520 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 11, 2007
Posts: 61
|
sungam wrote: Same goes for Dai. Word, I have a lot of respect for him. 5' 3/4'' represent!
|
|
|
|
|
bustloose
Nov 12, 2008, 7:57 PM
Post #54 of 60
(3453 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2003
Posts: 489
|
anyone who doubts Dai's pedigree needs to do some homework. maybe have a look around and see who's tried and failed on the problem, that might add some perspective for you as well. the very simple answer to this post is that if you doubt the grade, go and climb it. (and the 733t speak gangsta poseur flame fest was really funny stuff...)
|
|
|
|
|
k.l.k
Nov 12, 2008, 8:07 PM
Post #55 of 60
(3446 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 9, 2007
Posts: 1190
|
curt wrote: sungam wrote: Font and French or most certainly different. French is for grading sport routes and is used from 4 to 9b (note the lower case), whereas Font is used for boulder problems (not just traverses any more, in fact french grades are usually used for long traverses) and go from 4 to 8C+. http://www.rockfax.com/...cations/bgrades.html Thanks for the link. I believe it confirms what I suspected--as it indicates that French route grades and traverse grades are the same. Curt Actually, as it was explained to me by the locals, the Font traverse grade is slightly different from the numeric system used on the roped routes. It has the same numbers (but then, so do the boulder grades), just shifted slightly to reflect the fact that a traverse is typically somewhat easier to work and link than a roped sport route. I haven't completed any of the graded traverses (although I failed to flash an 8b at Sabots), so can't offer any opinion as to how it works, precisely. The Swiss seem to just be using Bleau boulder grades for traverse problems. It's ridiculously confusing.
|
|
|
|
|
porchy
Nov 13, 2008, 8:07 AM
Post #56 of 60
(3410 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 11, 2008
Posts: 31
|
number whores.
|
|
|
|
|
k.l.k
Nov 13, 2008, 3:30 PM
Post #57 of 60
(3391 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 9, 2007
Posts: 1190
|
porchy wrote: number whores. i cruised all yore projs b4 bvb moved to flag
|
|
|
|
|
jcrew
Jun 24, 2010, 6:42 PM
Post #58 of 60
(3134 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 11, 2006
Posts: 673
|
curt wrote: Right. Which is why very long problems like this do not fit the traditional definition of bouldering--and should really be graded using the YDS or Font traverse grading systems, instead of the "V" scale. Curt well, ethan pringle just grabbed the 3rd. send and called it 9a/.14d. Curt spoke, and they listened
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Jun 25, 2010, 2:02 AM
Post #59 of 60
(3100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
jcrew wrote: curt wrote: Right. Which is why very long problems like this do not fit the traditional definition of bouldering--and should really be graded using the YDS or Font traverse grading systems, instead of the "V" scale. Curt well, ethan pringle just grabbed the 3rd. send and called it 9a/.14d. Curt spoke, and they listened Hey, I'd like to take credit and all, but I think it's just a matter of common sense. Curt
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Jun 25, 2010, 10:23 AM
Post #60 of 60
(3059 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
BWAHAHAHAHA Oh...HAHAHAHAHA my... HAHAHAHAHA gawd... HAHAHAHA *wipes tear from eye* HAHAHAHAHA *cough cough* ahem.... BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA All the memories come rushing back. pr0x1mo, Protospray, Aceto. bwahahahha. Too funny. There haven't been so many great alter egos lately.
|
|
|
|
|
|