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porkchop_express


Oct 11, 2008, 9:02 AM
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wheel of life
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i have a question about this route/problem... i saw a video of chris webb climbing it on youtube and the poster rated it v16...is that legit? I mean is it a consensus 16? I cant even climb near that grade but i figure that I would have heard about it if it were a 16... just wondering. Thanks.


(This post was edited by porkchop_express on Oct 11, 2008, 9:06 AM)


sungam


Oct 11, 2008, 10:03 AM
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Re: [porkchop_express] wheel of life [In reply to]
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yes.


hopperhopper


Oct 11, 2008, 1:34 PM
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Re: [porkchop_express] wheel of life [In reply to]
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Until Graham confirms it I'm not flipping out over the first v16 just yet. He tends to downgrade stuff, and has climbed enough 14s and 15s to know. Same goes for Sharma.


sungam


Oct 11, 2008, 1:36 PM
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Same goes for Dai.


pr0x1mo


Oct 11, 2008, 1:49 PM
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In all honesty, witeness the fitness looks harder, the holds are much crappier, so if wheel of life is a 16, witness the fitness (WTF) is....


Valarc


Oct 11, 2008, 1:58 PM
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Re: [pr0x1mo] wheel of life [In reply to]
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pr0x1mo wrote:
In all honesty, witeness the fitness looks harder,

Hahahahahahahahahah

hahahaha

ahaha ha

ha
...


...


ha


Give me a fucking break, like you can tell from a video of a climb you couldn't climb if you superglued your hands to the holds.

You people crack me up sometimes.


ja1484


Oct 11, 2008, 3:01 PM
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Valarc wrote:
pr0x1mo wrote:
In all honesty, witeness the fitness looks harder,

Hahahahahahahahahah

hahahaha

ahaha ha

ha
...


...


ha


Give me a fucking break, like you can tell from a video of a climb you couldn't climb if you superglued your hands to the holds.

You people crack me up sometimes.


This man is the right one. I'll certainly listen to Sharma/Graham/Nicole's opinions, but let's not pretend we get to have thoughts about whether Dai Koyamada's supposed "soft" grading is actually true or not. All of these guys are climbing at a level well beyond the ability of rc.n00bers to conceptualize. It's like non-physicists trying to discuss nuances of string theory...it just comes off as silly posturing, which is pretty much accurate.


duncanlennon


Oct 11, 2008, 3:42 PM
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I read an article about this and apparently, Wheel of Life links a bunch of V12s together. Thus, the whole thing, while very difficult, doesn't have an individual move harder than V12. Some have suggested it should have a route grade. Not that it matters, it's still impressive.


pr0x1mo


Oct 13, 2008, 2:06 PM
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Valarc wrote:
pr0x1mo wrote:
In all honesty, witeness the fitness looks harder,

Hahahahahahahahahah

hahahaha

ahaha ha

ha
...


...


ha


Give me a fucking break, like you can tell from a video of a climb you couldn't climb if you superglued your hands to the holds.

You people crack me up sometimes.


you couldn't flash a route with a fucking camera you n00b. step down or get chin checked with a fucking wrecking ball you manpri pink chalk bag faggot chausser, HOLLAH


Valarc


Oct 13, 2008, 2:08 PM
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pr0x1mo wrote:
you couldn't flash a route with a fucking camera you n00b. step down or get chin checked with a fucking wrecking ball you manpri pink chalk bag faggot chausser, HOLLAH

preserved for posterity. Nothing I could say in response could possibly make you look like any more of a tool than you have managed yourself.


pr0x1mo


Oct 13, 2008, 2:30 PM
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Valarc wrote:
pr0x1mo wrote:
you couldn't flash a route with a fucking camera you n00b. step down or get chin checked with a fucking wrecking ball you manpri pink chalk bag faggot chausser, HOLLAH

preserved for posterity. Nothing I could say in response could possibly make you look like any more of a tool than you have managed yourself.

Preserved for posterity? I responded to this thread days later and your internet geek ass was on scrutinizing every thread in hopes to have someone to expatiate with you lexicon abusing slut bag.

Brought to you in part by www.dictionary.com


Partner sevrdhed


Oct 13, 2008, 2:40 PM
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ja1484 wrote:
All of these guys are climbing at a level well beyond the ability of rc.n00bers to conceptualize. It's like non-physicists trying to discuss nuances of string theory...it just comes off as silly posturing, which is pretty much accurate.

Speak for yourself. I can conceptualize V16. I think of it as twice as hard as V8. It's not rocket science.

Speaking of rocket science, I'd love to discuss the nuances of string theory as well.


sungam


Oct 13, 2008, 2:51 PM
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Re: [pr0x1mo] wheel of life [In reply to]
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pr0x1mo wrote:
Valarc wrote:
pr0x1mo wrote:
you couldn't flash a route with a fucking camera you n00b. step down or get chin checked with a fucking wrecking ball you manpri pink chalk bag faggot chausser, HOLLAH

preserved for posterity. Nothing I could say in response could possibly make you look like any more of a tool than you have managed yourself.

Preserved for posterity? I responded to this thread days later and your internet geek ass was on scrutinizing every thread in hopes to have someone to expatiate with you lexicon abusing slut bag.

Brought to you in part by www.dictionary.com
Quoted for posterity.
oh, I almost forgot...
You, sir, are a moron.


Partner camhead


Oct 13, 2008, 3:30 PM
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Re: [duncanlennon] wheel of life [In reply to]
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duncanlennon wrote:
I read an article about this and apparently, Wheel of Life links a bunch of V12s together. Thus, the whole thing, while very difficult, doesn't have an individual move harder than V12. Some have suggested it should have a route grade. Not that it matters, it's still impressive.

well, on the surface your post seems very moronic. How many 5.13s or 5.14s do you think have a "move" of .13 or .14 (roughly v8-v10)?

I have heard several times that "To Be or Not to Bolt" does not have a move harder than v3. You would have to be a 5.14 climber to be able to do 60+ moves of solid v3, though.

However, you are touching upon the fact that endurance, not individual hard moves, can be just as relevant in boulder problems as to routes. Originally, the YDS was supposed to just grade the hardest single move. This would tell you little about a route at the RRG, or Indian Creek, or Maple Canyon, or about Witness the Fitness, or Wheel of Life.

The French get around this by assigned a separate "traverse" grade to longer problems that factors in endurance rather than just hard moves; Wheel of Life AND Witness the Fitness could both benefit from this.


pr0x1mo


Oct 13, 2008, 3:36 PM
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sungam wrote:
pr0x1mo wrote:
Valarc wrote:
pr0x1mo wrote:
you couldn't flash a route with a fucking camera you n00b. step down or get chin checked with a fucking wrecking ball you manpri pink chalk bag faggot chausser, HOLLAH

preserved for posterity. Nothing I could say in response could possibly make you look like any more of a tool than you have managed yourself.

Preserved for posterity? I responded to this thread days later and your internet geek ass was on scrutinizing every thread in hopes to have someone to expatiate with you lexicon abusing slut bag.

Brought to you in part by www.dictionary.com
Quoted for posterity.
oh, I almost forgot...
You, sir, are a moron.

Well i didn't almost forget nothing, you're a bitch, whodie!


sungam


Oct 13, 2008, 3:42 PM
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pr0x1mo wrote:
sungam wrote:
pr0x1mo wrote:
Valarc wrote:
pr0x1mo wrote:
you couldn't flash a route with a fucking camera you n00b. step down or get chin checked with a fucking wrecking ball you manpri pink chalk bag faggot chausser, HOLLAH

preserved for posterity. Nothing I could say in response could possibly make you look like any more of a tool than you have managed yourself.

Preserved for posterity? I responded to this thread days later and your internet geek ass was on scrutinizing every thread in hopes to have someone to expatiate with you lexicon abusing slut bag.

Brought to you in part by www.dictionary.com
Quoted for posterity.
oh, I almost forgot...
You, sir, are a moron.

Well i didn't almost forget nothing, you're a bitch, whodie!
Laugh "I almost didn't forget nothing" Laugh


Valarc


Oct 13, 2008, 4:56 PM
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Partner sevrdhed


Oct 13, 2008, 5:32 PM
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Re: [Valarc] wheel of life [In reply to]
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Valarc wrote:

Haha. that rocks.


Jamis21


Oct 13, 2008, 7:06 PM
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Re: [sevrdhed] wheel of life [In reply to]
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Oddly enough, that's the same drug induced conversation that gave Metallica it's start.


(This post was edited by Jamis21 on Oct 13, 2008, 7:07 PM)


pr0x1mo


Oct 13, 2008, 7:09 PM
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sungam wrote:
pr0x1mo wrote:
sungam wrote:
pr0x1mo wrote:
Valarc wrote:
pr0x1mo wrote:
you couldn't flash a route with a fucking camera you n00b. step down or get chin checked with a fucking wrecking ball you manpri pink chalk bag faggot chausser, HOLLAH

preserved for posterity. Nothing I could say in response could possibly make you look like any more of a tool than you have managed yourself.

Preserved for posterity? I responded to this thread days later and your internet geek ass was on scrutinizing every thread in hopes to have someone to expatiate with you lexicon abusing slut bag.

Brought to you in part by www.dictionary.com
Quoted for posterity.
oh, I almost forgot...
You, sir, are a moron.

Well i didn't almost forget nothing, you're a bitch, whodie!
Laugh "I almost didn't forget nothing" Laugh

only crakkka nerds try to correct grammar on the internet Sly


a-e-jones


Oct 18, 2008, 5:28 PM
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Re: [pr0x1mo] wheel of life [In reply to]
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pr0x1mo wrote:
sungam wrote:
pr0x1mo wrote:
sungam wrote:
pr0x1mo wrote:
Valarc wrote:
pr0x1mo wrote:
you couldn't flash a route with a fucking camera you n00b. step down or get chin checked with a fucking wrecking ball you manpri pink chalk bag faggot chausser, HOLLAH

preserved for posterity. Nothing I could say in response could possibly make you look like any more of a tool than you have managed yourself.

Preserved for posterity? I responded to this thread days later and your internet geek ass was on scrutinizing every thread in hopes to have someone to expatiate with you lexicon abusing slut bag.

Brought to you in part by www.dictionary.com
Quoted for posterity.
oh, I almost forgot...
You, sir, are a moron.

Well i didn't almost forget nothing, you're a bitch, whodie!
Laugh "I almost didn't forget nothing" Laugh

only crakkka nerds try to correct grammar on the internet Sly






wow..........just wow


gt29905


Oct 18, 2008, 5:57 PM
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Re: [Valarc] wheel of life [In reply to]
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Valarc wrote:
pr0x1mo wrote:
you couldn't flash a route with a fucking camera you n00b. step down or get chin checked with a fucking wrecking ball you manpri pink chalk bag faggot chausser, HOLLAH

preserved for posterity. Nothing I could say in response could possibly make you look like any more of a tool than you have managed yourself.

Too trueLaugh

If pr0x1mo is a troll he's really F'ing funny.
Maybe SUBTLE is bored and up to no good.


(This post was edited by gt29905 on Oct 18, 2008, 6:02 PM)


sungam


Oct 18, 2008, 6:02 PM
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He reminds me of protoslay.
Man I miss that kid, it was so fun to let him rip himself apart.


a-e-jones


Oct 18, 2008, 7:16 PM
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hes gotta be someones alter ego

like aceto!


sungam


Oct 18, 2008, 7:43 PM
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Please, never relate this moron to Aceto the unfearing ever again.


irregularpanda


Oct 18, 2008, 8:29 PM
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sungam wrote:
Please, never relate this moron to Aceto the unfearing ever again.

right, like that time aceto went top roping and fell. Damn that was...........epic?


Partner hosh


Oct 18, 2008, 8:45 PM
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This thread isn't complete until someone calls someone else a douch bag. So, for completion's sake,

"All you alls is douch bags!"
*note the accuracy of the grammar here.
there. Now this thread is complete. Carry on ladies and gentlemen.

hosh.


wzrdgandalf


Oct 18, 2008, 10:03 PM
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i have to agree with proximo that only crakkka nerds try to correct grammar on the internet.

Unfortunately it is not SUBTLE making a come back, proximo is the real deal. A gangsta ass baller that tells the truth at all times. Beware he can rain down the crunkness on anyone at anytime at RC.com.


irregularpanda


Oct 18, 2008, 11:09 PM
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wzrdgandalf wrote:
i have to agree with proximo that only crakkka nerds try to correct grammar on the internet.

Unfortunately it is not SUBTLE making a come back, proximo is the real deal. A gangsta ass baller that tells the truth at all times. Beware he can rain down the crunkness on anyone at anytime at RC.com.

And you are riding his nuts, jocking his jock, fondling his tool.

Kudos to you, tool.


sungam


Oct 18, 2008, 11:54 PM
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irregularpanda wrote:
sungam wrote:
Please, never relate this moron to Aceto the unfearing ever again.

right, like that time aceto went top roping and fell. Damn that was...........epic?
You've clearly never TR'd at the black.


wzrdgandalf


Oct 20, 2008, 3:54 AM
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irregularpanda wrote:
wzrdgandalf wrote:
i have to agree with proximo that only crakkka nerds try to correct grammar on the internet.

Unfortunately it is not SUBTLE making a come back, proximo is the real deal. A gangsta ass baller that tells the truth at all times. Beware he can rain down the crunkness on anyone at anytime at RC.com.

And you are riding his nuts, jocking his jock, fondling his tool.

Kudos to you, tool.

In these confusing times I realize it has become harder and harder to discern facetious rhetoric, but I have to admit... If you can't see the sarcasm in me proclaiming that "only crakkka nerds try to correct grammar on the internet", then i have three theories which could explain your hostility.

1) You were too stoned to realize your error in judgment before you decided to write such an eloquent retort.
2) You are obtuse.
... and/or...
3)You are the type of person who believes that by using middle school terms describing gay sex and an insult, you can come out the victor of an "E-Dick Measuring" contest that I was not aware of.

If #1 is correct then I apologize for the harsh response and I will be smoking one for you tonight.

If #2 is correct, you are obtuse. Enough said.

If #3 is correct, realize that the forums are a good place to come and bounce ideas off of eachother and gain knowledge about our common hobby/lifestyle. Ocassionaly a troll comes along and stirs some shit up but there is no reason to make things personal. Chill out and maybe consider theory number one.

Anyway I figure I should at least provide another typical RC.com answer to this topic. Crap what was the question again? Oh yeah... ever heard of the search function noob!!!!????


Lazlo


Oct 20, 2008, 4:04 AM
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I read the thread...start to finish...forgot what the purpose of the thread was...asked my self what it's purpose was...and couldn't answer myself. I then looked at the subject...and everything was fine again. All was made clear. Welcome to RC.com.


petsfed


Oct 20, 2008, 4:44 AM
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wzrdgandalf wrote:
you can come out the victor of an "E-Dick Measuring" contest that I was not aware of

Which is funny, because google allows you to find an e-dick of any size you might want.

My e-dick is at least 3 internets long.


sungam


Oct 20, 2008, 6:40 PM
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petsfed wrote:
My e-dick is at least 3 internets long.
I've said it before and I'll say it again: that is bad-ass.


pr0x1mo


Oct 20, 2008, 9:00 PM
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This is what i think about this thread:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ll5Pp41PRAw

u nonh4x0r n00bz keep talkin non 733t speek,

Prox: So gansta my street credit got 0 percent interest til 2015


sungam


Oct 20, 2008, 10:15 PM
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Valarc wrote:
pr0x1mo wrote:
you couldn't flash a route with a fucking camera you n00b. step down or get chin checked with a fucking wrecking ball you manpri pink chalk bag faggot chausser, HOLLAH

preserved for posterity. Nothing I could say in response could possibly make you look like any more of a tool than you have managed yourself.

Just to keep these together...

pr0x1mo wrote:
This is what i think about this thread:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ll5Pp41PRAw

u nonh4x0r n00bz keep talkin non 733t speek,

Prox: So gansta my street credit got 0 percent interest til 2015


tarsier


Oct 20, 2008, 10:27 PM
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I've never had sex, but I've heard that it smells.


Factor2


Oct 20, 2008, 11:18 PM
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Re: [pr0x1mo] wheel of life [In reply to]
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pr0x1mo wrote:
This is what i think about this thread:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ll5Pp41PRAw

u nonh4x0r n00bz keep talkin non 733t speek,

Prox: So gansta my street credit got 0 percent interest til 2015

might as well clickify it


EPiCJAMES


Oct 21, 2008, 1:45 AM
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Re: [camhead] wheel of life [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
duncanlennon wrote:
I read an article about this and apparently, Wheel of Life links a bunch of V12s together. Thus, the whole thing, while very difficult, doesn't have an individual move harder than V12. Some have suggested it should have a route grade. Not that it matters, it's still impressive.

well, on the surface your post seems very moronic. How many 5.13s or 5.14s do you think have a "move" of .13 or .14 (roughly v8-v10)?

I have heard several times that "To Be or Not to Bolt" does not have a move harder than v3. You would have to be a 5.14 climber to be able to do 60+ moves of solid v3, though.

However, you are touching upon the fact that endurance, not individual hard moves, can be just as relevant in boulder problems as to routes. Originally, the YDS was supposed to just grade the hardest single move. This would tell you little about a route at the RRG, or Indian Creek, or Maple Canyon, or about Witness the Fitness, or Wheel of Life.

The French get around this by assigned a separate "traverse" grade to longer problems that factors in endurance rather than just hard moves; Wheel of Life AND Witness the Fitness could both benefit from this.

camhead is right. i actually had the chance to hang out with dave graham, and he told me about problems that had say the first 3 moves were V4 and the last 10+ moves were V8 and it's a V9. a lot more goes in to grading these problems than i had thought prior to that conversation.


pr0x1mo


Oct 21, 2008, 2:14 AM
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Re: [Factor2] wheel of life [In reply to]
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Factor2 wrote:
pr0x1mo wrote:
This is what i think about this thread:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ll5Pp41PRAw

u nonh4x0r n00bz keep talkin non 733t speek,

Prox: So gansta my street credit got 0 percent interest til 2015

might as well clickify it

So what you think about it, slut?

www.myspace.com/internetthugcc


Feller


Oct 21, 2008, 3:43 PM
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Re: [petsfed] wheel of life [In reply to]
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petsfed wrote:
Which is funny, because google allows you to find an e-dick of any size you might want.

My e-dick is at least 3 internets long.

I LoLed at this.

also, pr0x1mo, you're one goofy guy.....I almost feel bad for ya man, all these internet crazies making fun of your grammar....how dare they expect you to criticize other people using proper engrish.

and...finally ON topic... I saw this video about a month ago on StumbleUpon (which btw, is an addon to firefox everyone here should have...you can make a stumble filter for climbing videos and BAM...countless hours of completly random videos of people rock climbing....most are pretty good, some are shitty, but its the nature of the beast)...whoa...I have ADD today I guess.....anyways....upon watching it, I had the same thought a lot of you did, that this problem looks hard, no doubt. WAY hard, and definitely more than I can handle, but in comparison to other things I've seen, it doesn't look like the hardest. I'd say v16 is a VERY liberal rating, then again, I'm not a professional-route-rater-dude...so....guess it's just my looking vicariously in on the world's best.


pr0x1mo


Oct 21, 2008, 5:25 PM
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Re: [Feller] wheel of life [In reply to]
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dey kant keep up wit da gawd, nahmean?


sungam


Oct 21, 2008, 5:48 PM
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Re: [pr0x1mo] wheel of life [In reply to]
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pr0x1mo wrote:
Factor2 wrote:
pr0x1mo wrote:
This is what i think about this thread:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ll5Pp41PRAw

u nonh4x0r n00bz keep talkin non 733t speek,

Prox: So gansta my street credit got 0 percent interest til 2015

might as well clickify it

So what you think about it, slut?

www.myspace.com/internetthugcc
pr0x1mo wrote:
dey kant keep up wit da gawd, nahmean?
This is solid gold!
Keep it coming!


pr0x1mo


Oct 22, 2008, 6:44 PM
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Re: [sungam] wheel of life [In reply to]
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come to miami for some real climbing you fucking posers *SPITS HARD* shits real in da field out here, i dun seen mass fuckin murders, superlative mayhem, stomping blitzkrieg insurgencies out here in 8th street coral boulders.

They captured Alian Gonzalez for flashing a v13 out in key west. Miami is the real.


wzrdgandalf


Oct 24, 2008, 7:38 PM
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Re: [EPiCJAMES] wheel of life [In reply to]
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EPiCJAMES wrote:
camhead wrote:
duncanlennon wrote:
I read an article about this and apparently, Wheel of Life links a bunch of V12s together. Thus, the whole thing, while very difficult, doesn't have an individual move harder than V12. Some have suggested it should have a route grade. Not that it matters, it's still impressive.

well, on the surface your post seems very moronic. How many 5.13s or 5.14s do you think have a "move" of .13 or .14 (roughly v8-v10)?

I have heard several times that "To Be or Not to Bolt" does not have a move harder than v3. You would have to be a 5.14 climber to be able to do 60+ moves of solid v3, though.

However, you are touching upon the fact that endurance, not individual hard moves, can be just as relevant in boulder problems as to routes. Originally, the YDS was supposed to just grade the hardest single move. This would tell you little about a route at the RRG, or Indian Creek, or Maple Canyon, or about Witness the Fitness, or Wheel of Life.

The French get around this by assigned a separate "traverse" grade to longer problems that factors in endurance rather than just hard moves; Wheel of Life AND Witness the Fitness could both benefit from this.

camhead is right. i actually had the chance to hang out with dave graham, and he told me about problems that had say the first 3 moves were V4 and the last 10+ moves were V8 and it's a V9. a lot more goes in to grading these problems than i had thought prior to that conversation.

I believe that wheel of life was a link up of multiple v10+ problems. When you start getting to that level, most pro climbers can climb v10 all day and not break a sweat, but if you put a v11 and a v12 together then not only are you testing their ability to do the insanely hard move which is the crux, but you are also testing thier ability to do multiple cruxes back to back. For most boulderers, a burst of power is the name of the game. Wheel of life tests the power endurance ability of a climber. V grade or 5. grade doesnt really matter in this case.
I do however wonder what Dai Koyamada would put as a route grade for this problem. 15a? above it or below it?


knieveltech


Oct 24, 2008, 7:51 PM
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Re: [gt29905] wheel of life [In reply to]
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gt29905 wrote:
Valarc wrote:
pr0x1mo wrote:
you couldn't flash a route with a fucking camera you n00b. step down or get chin checked with a fucking wrecking ball you manpri pink chalk bag faggot chausser, HOLLAH

preserved for posterity. Nothing I could say in response could possibly make you look like any more of a tool than you have managed yourself.

Too trueLaugh

If pr0x1mo is a troll he's really F'ing funny.
Maybe SUBTLE is bored and up to no good.

No way. Subtle's style is way more...well...subtle. Pr0x1mo is more like Bad Santa without the txt nonsense.


curt


Oct 24, 2008, 7:55 PM
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Re: [wzrdgandalf] wheel of life [In reply to]
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wzrdgandalf wrote:
EPiCJAMES wrote:
camhead wrote:
duncanlennon wrote:
I read an article about this and apparently, Wheel of Life links a bunch of V12s together. Thus, the whole thing, while very difficult, doesn't have an individual move harder than V12. Some have suggested it should have a route grade. Not that it matters, it's still impressive.

well, on the surface your post seems very moronic. How many 5.13s or 5.14s do you think have a "move" of .13 or .14 (roughly v8-v10)?

I have heard several times that "To Be or Not to Bolt" does not have a move harder than v3. You would have to be a 5.14 climber to be able to do 60+ moves of solid v3, though.

However, you are touching upon the fact that endurance, not individual hard moves, can be just as relevant in boulder problems as to routes. Originally, the YDS was supposed to just grade the hardest single move. This would tell you little about a route at the RRG, or Indian Creek, or Maple Canyon, or about Witness the Fitness, or Wheel of Life.

The French get around this by assigned a separate "traverse" grade to longer problems that factors in endurance rather than just hard moves; Wheel of Life AND Witness the Fitness could both benefit from this.

camhead is right. i actually had the chance to hang out with dave graham, and he told me about problems that had say the first 3 moves were V4 and the last 10+ moves were V8 and it's a V9. a lot more goes in to grading these problems than i had thought prior to that conversation.

I believe that wheel of life was a link up of multiple v10+ problems. When you start getting to that level, most pro climbers can climb v10 all day and not break a sweat, but if you put a v11 and a v12 together then not only are you testing their ability to do the insanely hard move which is the crux, but you are also testing thier ability to do multiple cruxes back to back...

Right. Which is why very long problems like this do not fit the traditional definition of bouldering--and should really be graded using the YDS or Font traverse grading systems, instead of the "V" scale.

Curt


wzrdgandalf


Oct 24, 2008, 8:12 PM
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Re: [curt] wheel of life [In reply to]
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I looked around a bit and didnt find much with the search on the Font Traverse Grading. Anyone care to take a go at explaining it? Thank you in advance.


curt


Oct 24, 2008, 9:11 PM
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Re: [wzrdgandalf] wheel of life [In reply to]
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wzrdgandalf wrote:
I looked around a bit and didnt find much with the search on the Font Traverse Grading. Anyone care to take a go at explaining it? Thank you in advance.

I believe the Font traverse grades are merely the same as those used for French sport climbing routes--but I would like to see if someone else can confirm this.

Curt


sungam


Oct 24, 2008, 10:39 PM
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Re: [curt] wheel of life [In reply to]
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Font and French or most certainly different.
French is for grading sport routes and is used from 4 to 9b (note the lower case), whereas Font is used for boulder problems (not just traverses any more, in fact french grades are usually used for long traverses) and go from 4 to 8C+.
http://www.rockfax.com/...cations/bgrades.html


curt


Oct 25, 2008, 3:05 AM
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Re: [sungam] wheel of life [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
Font and French or most certainly different.
French is for grading sport routes and is used from 4 to 9b (note the lower case), whereas Font is used for boulder problems (not just traverses any more, in fact french grades are usually used for long traverses) and go from 4 to 8C+.
http://www.rockfax.com/...cations/bgrades.html

Thanks for the link. I believe it confirms what I suspected--as it indicates that French route grades and traverse grades are the same.

Curt


sungam


Oct 25, 2008, 4:12 AM
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Re: [curt] wheel of life [In reply to]
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curt wrote:
sungam wrote:
Font and French or most certainly different.
French is for grading sport routes and is used from 4 to 9b (note the lower case), whereas Font is used for boulder problems (not just traverses any more, in fact french grades are usually used for long traverses) and go from 4 to 8C+.
http://www.rockfax.com/...cations/bgrades.html

Thanks for the link. I believe it confirms what I suspected--as it indicates that French route grades and traverse grades are the same.

Curt
Sorry, the confusion came from the Font/French thing.


PatMcGinn


Nov 1, 2008, 10:36 PM
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Re: [sungam] wheel of life [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
Same goes for Dai.
Word, I have a lot of respect for him. 5' 3/4'' represent!


bustloose


Nov 12, 2008, 7:57 PM
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Re: [PatMcGinn] wheel of life [In reply to]
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anyone who doubts Dai's pedigree needs to do some homework.

maybe have a look around and see who's tried and failed on the problem, that might add some perspective for you as well.

the very simple answer to this post is that if you doubt the grade, go and climb it.

(and the 733t speak gangsta poseur flame fest was really funny stuff...)


k.l.k


Nov 12, 2008, 8:07 PM
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Re: [curt] wheel of life [In reply to]
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curt wrote:
sungam wrote:
Font and French or most certainly different.
French is for grading sport routes and is used from 4 to 9b (note the lower case), whereas Font is used for boulder problems (not just traverses any more, in fact french grades are usually used for long traverses) and go from 4 to 8C+.
http://www.rockfax.com/...cations/bgrades.html

Thanks for the link. I believe it confirms what I suspected--as it indicates that French route grades and traverse grades are the same.

Curt

Actually, as it was explained to me by the locals, the Font traverse grade is slightly different from the numeric system used on the roped routes. It has the same numbers (but then, so do the boulder grades), just shifted slightly to reflect the fact that a traverse is typically somewhat easier to work and link than a roped sport route.

I haven't completed any of the graded traverses (although I failed to flash an 8b at Sabots), so can't offer any opinion as to how it works, precisely.

The Swiss seem to just be using Bleau boulder grades for traverse problems. It's ridiculously confusing.


porchy


Nov 13, 2008, 8:07 AM
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Re: [k.l.k] wheel of life [In reply to]
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number whores.


k.l.k


Nov 13, 2008, 3:30 PM
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porchy wrote:
number whores.

i cruised all yore projs b4 bvb moved to flag


jcrew


Jun 24, 2010, 6:42 PM
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Re: [curt] wheel of life [In reply to]
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curt wrote:

Right. Which is why very long problems like this do not fit the traditional definition of bouldering--and should really be graded using the YDS or Font traverse grading systems, instead of the "V" scale.

Curt

well, ethan pringle just grabbed the 3rd. send and called it 9a/.14d. Curt spoke, and they listened


curt


Jun 25, 2010, 2:02 AM
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Re: [jcrew] wheel of life [In reply to]
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jcrew wrote:
curt wrote:

Right. Which is why very long problems like this do not fit the traditional definition of bouldering--and should really be graded using the YDS or Font traverse grading systems, instead of the "V" scale.

Curt

well, ethan pringle just grabbed the 3rd. send and called it 9a/.14d. Curt spoke, and they listened

Hey, I'd like to take credit and all, but I think it's just a matter of common sense.

Curt


sungam


Jun 25, 2010, 10:23 AM
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Re: [jcrew] wheel of life [In reply to]
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BWAHAHAHAHA Oh...HAHAHAHAHA my... HAHAHAHAHA gawd... HAHAHAHA *wipes tear from eye* HAHAHAHAHA *cough cough* ahem....



BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA


All the memories come rushing back. pr0x1mo, Protospray, Aceto. bwahahahha.

Too funny. There haven't been so many great alter egos lately.


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